Smart Alternator charging and RV Battery Charging - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-20-2021, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
Reagan39
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Smart Alternator charging and RV Battery Charging

Smart charging alternator surprised me completely. Any insight to how it might interact with my (factory order)RV trailer AGMs when I finally get it?

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post #2 of 12 Old 03-21-2021, 04:59 PM
diverscale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reagan39 View Post
Smart charging alternator surprised me completely. Any insight to how it might interact with my (factory order)RV trailer AGMs when I finally get it?
your 2020 GC already has AGM'S installed factory, so I don't see how it could negatively affect your trailer AGM's . Same voltage curves.
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-21-2021, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
Reagan39
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Concerned it will not charge the trailer’s AGMs. Because I keep a battery tender on the vehicle, it’s at 12.9 volts & the “smart” alternator rarely goes over 13 volts & only when decelerating. “Smart” charging is a different animal....those with Lithium batteries in their trailer have to upgrade to a DC/DC controller to charge from the tow vehicle at all.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-21-2021, 11:17 PM
ColdCase
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How are you connecting the RV battery to the Jeep, via the 12V battery in the trailer connector? I think some lithium batteries need 14.4 – 14.6 Volts to fully charge. AGMs similar to the ones in the Jeep should be OK, however. The Jeep charging strategy should maintain sufficient voltage overall to maintain the batteries in the RV, but it may take longer to fully charge a depleted set. You can see 14.7 volts on deceleration. I'll have to double check with the RAM guys, if no one jumps in here before I get back.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-22-2021, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
Reagan39
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Typically with a factory “tow package” or aftermarket tow products a “7-Way” cable is plugged in from the trailer to the vehicle. The tow vehicle then provides lights, turn, brake signals and a +12v (constant) to provide power for trailer battery charging,etc.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-22-2021, 11:06 AM
ColdCase
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Yeah, I thats what I was asking, if you were using a standard hookup or something custom. Nice answer.

I think its always been problematic charging the deep cycle RV batteries via the tow vehicle without a DC-DC charger (short of the trailer brake battery). They will get a trickle/maintenace charge but charging a depleted battery may take a very long time? The smart charging strategy just may make things worse, as high bus voltages are less often.. but it should maintain a RV AGM battery OK.

I have to double check if the Jeep's smart charging strategy changes/adapts when it detects a trailer is connected. Perhaps someone here knows off hand.
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I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-22-2021, 11:45 AM
Jurassic_Jeep
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https://www.renogy.com/12v-dc-to-dc-...ttery-charger/

Input voltage is 8 to 16V on this.
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2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4x4 3.6L V6.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-22-2021, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
Reagan39
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Agreed! Thanks for the insight. Unfortunately Jeep has few details in the manuals.
I just spent hour upon hour researching how my “North” edition with “Rear Load Stabilization “ (NOT Quadra Lift) (gas piston, mechanical...as in Nivomat?) would affect my set up of an Equalizer weight distribution hitch. Jeep has no input. I finally took measurements on the front & rear wheel wells, static..then loaded the vehicle with 525lbs (simulating tongue weight)drove a few miles and retook the measurements to find it originally droped 2” in the rear and raised the front 1/4”. Many owners are also perplexed even with the Quadra Lift (which Equalizer has addressed with a video).
In the end I had to raise the hitch ball nearly 2”.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-22-2021, 01:56 PM
ColdCase
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FCA doesn't specify Jeeps like a truck, they aren't towing that heavy anyway. The info they provide is kinda lame.

Setting up on a truck is a little different as they rarely have load leveling and independent rear suspension. Jeep just differs to your WDH manufacture for instructions. There are recommendations around here somewhere, when I get a chance I'll try to find them. I've seen a couple videos on etrailer. Folks have been towing with equalizer hitches since 2012, lots of discussion. Dunno why the perplexing.

Jeep says 3000 pounds is max without a WDH, so you probably should be loading with 300 pounds, and drive around to find normal (target) ride and ball height, if you want to do it that method to get close to the drop/rise you need. Then you will adjust the WDH to that with the you are using. You are going to have to make some adjustment in ball height anyway, so most skip the loading part, but you won't know that until you have the trailer hooked up and are adjusting the WDH. You don't want the Jeep rear end drooping as that means the rear axle may be overloaded. But I'm sure you know all that.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-22-2021, 01:56 PM
ColdCase
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FCA doesn't specify Jeeps like a truck, they aren't towing that heavy anyway. The info they provide is kinda lame.

Setting up on a truck is a little different as they rarely have load leveling and independent rear suspension. Jeep just differs to your WDH manufacture for instructions. There are recommendations around here somewhere, when I get a chance I'll try to find them. I've seen a couple videos on etrailer. Folks have been towing with equalizer hitches since 2012, lots of discussion. Dunno why the perplexing.

Jeep says 3000 pounds is max without a WDH, so you probably should be loading with 300 pounds, and drive around to find normal (target) ride and ball height, if you want to do it that method to get close to the drop/rise you need. Then you will adjust the WDH to that with the you are using. You are going to have to make some adjustment in ball height anyway, so most skip the loading part, but you won't know that until you have the trailer hooked up and are adjusting the WDH. You don't want the Jeep rear end drooping as that means the rear axle may be overloaded. But I'm sure you know all that.
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I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-22-2021, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
Reagan39
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My “North” edition is rated 6200lbs towing with the factory class IV hitch. Of course I’m no where near that with a trailer with a GVWR of 5,000lbs and 3500lbs dry.... 525lbs tongue wt. But always looking for input !
Actually....like most vehicles, I’ll max out the Grand Cherokee’s rating of 1050lbs with just the tongue wt & passengers.
But I hear ya about the WD setup...I’ve spent many hours of YouTube, etc with really great advice.
Don’t expect the delivery of our RV trailer until late April, May...so I have time to ensure planning of load issues.....spreadsheets to jockey loads from the WK to the RV, etc
Thanks ColdCase !
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-23-2021, 11:45 AM
Bilko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jurassic_Jeep View Post
Check this out

https://outbackjoe.com/macho-diverti...and-inverters/

I have fitted the Renogy DC-DC Charger in a WK2 to charge an auxiliary battery installed under the driver's seat and it worked well. I did cut holes in the hatch that covers the battery box to dissipate the heat from the converter. If you install the DC-DC unit in your RV, I doubt the 7 pin connector will supply enough juice to quickly charge your auxiliary batteries. You could extend the direct battery connections to the rear of the vehicle but you need fuses/breakers to avoid a battery explosion if something shorts. Unless you really know what you are doing I would not recommend this.
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