Serviceable driveshaft? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 34 Old 05-16-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
simmons1183
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Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
There is a UV die you can add to the coolant to make a leak easier to find. The motor mounts are filled with fluid, dunno if it resembles dirty coolant.
Well shoot, I didn’t realize the motor mount was fluid filled.. That makes so much more sense.
I took off some of the accessories earlier to check all the WP areas and all around the reservoir and there’s a fine dust layer on much of it so it couldn’t have come from there. But that makes sense if it’s the mount it’s self. Would also explain the small vibration of the MDS I get.
Saw on another forum that it isn’t much of a DIY job, but I can live with that for now.
I should be able to do the front shaft this weekend. FedEx says delivery date Saturday.
Fingers crossed. I just want this thing to run normally.
Let’s hope month 2 of ownership is less expensive...

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post #17 of 34 Old 05-16-2019, 05:28 PM
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Yeah there are a couple threads here, a couple discussions indexed in the maintenance/repaire sticky thread.

Its basically raise the engine off the mounts and replace. To get at the engine lifting eye, you sometimes have to remove the intake manifold. There are a few things that should be disconnected before lifting.

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #18 of 34 Old 05-16-2019, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the drive shaft came in early... but it is useless. It was not packed properly and was not inspected. One end is completely missing the outer gasket, and both ends have bits of what looks like a clear rubber band in them. I assume this is an inner gasket of some kind?

This was a brand new from the manufacture part, no wonder these things are wearing out so fast. Pics are attached- this was how it was packed, I hadn’t even taken it out of the box all the way
Attached Thumbnails
56349B51-031E-42EA-BBE9-493F7A7720F5_1558063899567.jpg   D66AECFC-3779-4384-B10C-037E03F31E88_1558063915096.jpg   669F6609-6247-4EA2-8ED3-5707577D23EA_1558063933522.jpg  
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post #19 of 34 Old 05-22-2019, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well.. front drive shaft is in and NO CHANGE. I am beyond perplexed.

Short summary is that I have a 100% drive line related vibration that happens only when the vehicle is cold.
Starts at speeds only above 45mph.
It’s not engine speed or tire/wheel related.
Light to moderate acceleration makes it go away, coasting and deceleration makes it comes back.
I can feel it mostly in the seats and console, little bit in the steering wheel.

I have replaced the front and rear drive shaft and no change has happened.

Any other ideas?
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post #20 of 34 Old 05-22-2019, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe the leaking motor mount is related...
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post #21 of 34 Old 05-23-2019, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for multiple posts, I am still not allowed to edit/delete.
I started the engine and let it warm up this morning before driving... no change. I am now starting to feel a little vibration from the engine at idle from the mount, but no change in the drive line vibration.
I am also hearing the driveline vibration at highway speeds, but can barely feel it once going 60+
Still goes away after a few miles and does not return until car has been sitting and cooled off
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post #22 of 34 Old 05-23-2019, 07:37 AM
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I had bad tires a couple times that gave me the same/similar vibration symptoms you describe. Vibrations come and go what seemed like randomly. Disappearing for days. Look for a wheel with a large amount of weights or on different edges. Different alignment specs created slightly different response, but it didn't matter what corner the tire was on. The clunck is something else. You did check the lug nuts?

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #23 of 34 Old 05-23-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I had bad tires a couple times that gave me the same/similar vibration symptoms you describe. Vibrations come and go what seemed like randomly. Disappearing for days. Look for a wheel with a large amount of weights or on different edges. Different alignment specs created slightly different response, but it didn't matter what corner the tire was on. The clunck is something else. You did check the lug nuts?
Yup, I’ve ran two sets of wheels as I had a set left over from my old JK and no difference was felt. It just rumbles like hell from the console and seats for the first few miles of driving and then goes away. I can make it come and go with the gas pedal like it’s a drive shaft.. but I checked both of the new ones and they still looks just fine.
I hate to give up.. but I am almost $1000 in now and am all but ready to just see what car deals can be had this weekend.
None of the dealerships in my area are worth anything or I’d just bite the bullet and bring it there. I had hell fighting them over different things that went wrong with my JK.
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post #24 of 34 Old 05-23-2019, 06:49 PM
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Take one drive shaft off and drive it, see if the vibration goes away, then do the same with the other. Wait, can you even do that with a full time 4WD Jeep? Would be one easy cheap way to rule out a drive shaft. Maybe a differential/differential bearing, wheel bearing, transmission mounts, hard to say.

Take it to a tire shop and have them verify its not your tire/wheel combination.

As for those drive shafts being serviceable, they're not they're replaced as a unit....however, for a permanent solution to that serviceability issue, go to a driveline shop and have them build drivelines to fit your Jeep with the U-Joints and adapters for the transfer case and differentials, and you'll never have to deal with that issue again in the future. Had that done on my Bronco 2 as it had a similar type of driveline in the rear of it which wasn't repairable. It was a bit expensive but worth it for future repairs where I can now pull the driveshaft and simply replace U-Joints.
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post #25 of 34 Old 05-23-2019, 07:35 PM
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OP got a QTII which you can drive with the front driveshaft off, but not the back. Its basically a 2WD Jeep with a power takeoff.

The 2011-2013 transmissions can shudder a bit for the first few miles (mine does this once in awhile, although not near as severe as yours, its heard but not felt). Our 09 Liberty's lockup converter shudders all the time, which is considered normal for that V6 transmission. The transfer case clutches can shudder. I forget if you said you checked/changed fluids. The rear axle usualy just bumps, doesn't shudder.

Solving WK2 vibrations can be a challenge, many here have given up.

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Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #26 of 34 Old 05-24-2019, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmons1183 View Post
Sorry for multiple posts, I am still not allowed to edit/delete.
Management currently has the new member post count probation period set to 25. They move you from the registered to full feature group once you have 25 decent posts.

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #27 of 34 Old 05-24-2019, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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OP got a QTII which you can drive with the front driveshaft off, but not the back. Its basically a 2WD Jeep with a power takeoff.

The 2011-2013 transmissions can shudder a bit for the first few miles (mine does this once in awhile, although not near as severe as yours, its heard but not felt). Our 09 Liberty's lockup converter shudders all the time, which is considered normal for that V6 transmission. The transfer case clutches can shudder. I forget if you said you checked/changed fluids. The rear axle usualy just bumps, doesn't shudder.

Solving WK2 vibrations can be a challenge, many here have given up.
I have the torque lock up shudder too. That I can live with at least.

This would be so much easier to solve if it didn’t go away after a few miles. I’m assuming something is getting coated after fluids warm up or a bushing is more flexible after warming up.. it’s been roughly 90 degrees outside lately so its not exactly cool conditions.

I was really betting on the CV joints on the rear shaft being bad, especially since the grease had been leaking, but the new shafts made zero difference. Further inspection on the old shaft, center support bearing, and guibo (flex disc) all looked decent too.

I would think “hope” if it was the front or rear differential, it would be a constant problem.
Transmission shifts smoothly, fluid looks clean and is full.

I may try to bring it by an independent mechanic to get their opinion before selling it. I’ll end up losing some decent $ if I sell now as I paid right at KBB value for it. The rest of the Jeep is immaculate at least.
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post #28 of 34 Old 05-24-2019, 01:26 PM
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The WK2 shudder is different than the TQ lockup shudder that the Liberty has. Perhaps a sticky transmission or transfer case clutch when cold/dry.

From what I've read here, unless its a tire thing the easiest and, on the average, the most cost effective way to solve a WK2 vibration is to trade it off on one that drives smooth.

Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #29 of 34 Old 05-24-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
The WK2 shudder is different than the TQ lockup shudder that the Liberty has. Perhaps a sticky transmission or transfer case clutch when cold/dry.

From what I've read here, unless its a tire thing the easiest and, on the average, the most cost effective way to solve a WK2 vibration is to trade it off on one that drives smooth.
AMEN! lol thanks for all the info you’ve provided on this thread and my others.
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post #30 of 34 Old 05-29-2019, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Short update.
Last weekend, I put the vehicle up on a lift thinking I’d get it up to 45mph to look for a cause. I couldn’t get it up past 15mph before the whole thing started to shake violently.
I lowered it back down and did a visual inspection, but everything looked fine. I went on a quick test drive and the vibration was gone. Of course later in the day once the car cooled off it came back.. but very interesting.

So far have eliminated and or replaced:
Wheels/Tires
Front and rear drive shaft
Rotors/pads

I guess next I’ll start on the CV axles. Those are the only damn things left that spin while driving short of the gears in the front and rear diff and the transmission. Those all seem fine... thankfully.
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