Serviceable driveshaft? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 34 Old 05-01-2019, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
simmons1183
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Serviceable driveshaft?

2011 5.7 4x4.
Pics are not the best, but my rear driveshaft is throwing grease and I am getting vibration off and on in the seats as well as an occasional clunk.
I finally found a 52123514AD drive shaft online.. but rather than fork over $500, has anyone had luck replacing the joints in the drive shaft? I would hate to shell out that dough just because of a leaky joint.

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post #2 of 34 Old 05-02-2019, 01:18 AM
Kolak
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I've never seen any repair parts for the rear shaft unfortunately. You'll see kits online that say "rear" but what they actually mean is the rear joint on the front shaft.

If I can assist with a replacement Mopar driveshaft please PM me here on the forum or email me at [email protected]

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post #3 of 34 Old 05-02-2019, 06:25 AM
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Yeah, haven't heard of anything here other than replacing the flex coupler near the diff. Sometimes you can find Mercedes parts that fit but you are on your own. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309...shaft-4334749/

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post #4 of 34 Old 05-02-2019, 11:39 AM
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Just checked mine yesterday, luckily it's in fine shape.

That other thread where the coupler kept exploding, what a nightmare.
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post #5 of 34 Old 05-12-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
simmons1183
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Welp. Ended up replacing the rear driveshaft myself. $600 later, it’s done.
NOT an easy job if you don’t want to remove the exhaust assembly first, but it was manageable with a few cuss words and 4 hours on my back.
Unfortunately I am still getting drive line vibration, so it was in vain anyway.
I am going to do the front shaft next. Nothing visibly wrong with it, but I am running out of things that be causing the drone/vibration.

Only getting vibration/droning starting at 45mph, and only when the vehicles is cold.
*Acceleration makes it go away*
Shifting into neutral, manually changing gears up/down, just coasting, etc doesn’t make any difference, only acceleration makes it go away.
Once I’ve been driving for 5-10 minutes it goes away on its own and doesn’t happen again til the vehicle has sat for a long while.

I am also positive that it’s not the tires or wheels, it doesn’t feel the same as that type of vibration. This shakes the seats and windows with the drone and shudder. Though just to rule it out, I even swapped sets to make sure.
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post #6 of 34 Old 05-13-2019, 06:54 AM
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Vibrations on these WK2s can be a bear to sort out, one reason I suggest driving them cold before buying.

I think the V6 transmission torque converted used to cause this kind of thing as the lockup modulates and can drone. Not sure about the V8 transmission. You may want to change transmission fluids if you haven't already. I would think all that shifting would have isolated that however.

Otherwise I think droning in the driveline would be worse when warm and well used, not after its been set for awhile. Unless perhaps the C/V joint grease settles in a worn joint, throwing it out of alignment, and it takes awhile to loosen up. If its worn, acceleration may squish the grease around and clicks the joint back into alignment. Dunno. There are plenty here with vibrations when new that were never sorted out.

The engine twisting motion on acceleration may stretch a mount that settled while parked.

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post #7 of 34 Old 05-13-2019, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
Vibrations on these WK2s can be a bear to sort out, one reason I suggest driving them cold before buying.

I think the V6 transmission torque converted used to cause this kind of thing as the lockup modulates and can drone. Not sure about the V8 transmission. You may want to change transmission fluids if you haven't already. I would think all that shifting would have isolated that however.

Otherwise I think droning in the driveline would be worse when warm and well used, not after its been set for awhile. Unless perhaps the C/V joint grease settles in a worn joint, throwing it out of alignment, and it takes awhile to loosen up. If its worn, acceleration may squish the grease around and clicks the joint back into alignment. Dunno. There are plenty here with vibrations when new that were never sorted out.

The engine twisting motion on acceleration may stretch a mount that settled while parked.
Yeah, I’ve never had such a vibration sensitive vehicle since my last BMW. But considering the chassis of the WK2 is all Mercedes engineering, I guess that makes sense.
Oddly enough today on my first drive of the day I had no vibration issues at all, it’s like it should be. Who knows...
I will report back after the front shaft has been replaced. I see that one of the front CV boots is leaking so I might replace that too. Seems like that may really only affect 4WD, but still.
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post #8 of 34 Old 05-13-2019, 01:46 PM
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The entire drivetrain is always in motion, so its not necessarily a 4WD thing.

Whatever hits the fan is not evenly distributed
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #9 of 34 Old 05-13-2019, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Well, went to grab the part number off the front driveshaft this evening and found a few surprises. For one, my sway bar bushings are shot. Not sure how that even happens.
secondly, I have what looks to be a coolant leak.
Coming from the passenger side. I tried to find anywhere it could be coming from but all hoses and lines are dry. The leak is towards the back part of the engine area, so not a WP/thermostat issue. The reservoir tank doesn’t appear to have any cracks and the overflow hose is dirty inside so nothing has come out of it recently.
I really am starting to wonder why I gave Chrysler a second chance..
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post #10 of 34 Old 05-14-2019, 06:08 AM
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There have been a few bad sway bar bushings reported here, usually you get a squeak or clunk over bumps. They are molded to the bar, so the book says to replace the bar. There is a alternative fix indexed in the maintenance sticky that replaces the bushings. Not an easy job but doable.

There are some heater hoses that run back to the firewall. I don't recall off hand where the drain hose for the cabin air intake/wipers and the HVAC housing (A/C condensed water) comes out. It may be in that area.

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Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #11 of 34 Old 05-14-2019, 09:55 AM
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I don't think anyone mentioned the V8 MDS. Mine will vibrate a bit more when it kicks in cold, not so much when warmed up. Perhaps thats what you are feeling?

Whatever hits the fan is not evenly distributed
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #12 of 34 Old 05-15-2019, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
I don't think anyone mentioned the V8 MDS. Mine will vibrate a bit more when it kicks in cold, not so much when warmed up. Perhaps thats what you are feeling?
While I do feel the MDS kick in as well, this is a different vibration. It is severe enough it rattles the windows and sunglasses in the console.
It is vehicle speed related, once I get up to highway speed, the vibration feels less severe, but has increased in revolutions. I would swear it was a tire/wheel if I didn’t swap them out already to check. Since acceleration makes it go away, only to return when letting off the gas, I am hoping it is just the front shaft. I also noted some light clunking this morning too.
I ordered the front shaft yesterday so hopefully it takes care of it. At least it’ll be an easier job than the rear shaft!
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post #13 of 34 Old 05-16-2019, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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I noticed a few drops of dirty coolant on the ground again today. I could only trace it up to the passenger motor mount. I see zero trace of anything above it, but it’s being dropped on from somewhere above. I traced all lines and hoses coming off the radiator and all are dry. I guess I’ll have to start dissembling things to get to the source. Very odd.
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post #14 of 34 Old 05-16-2019, 07:12 AM
ColdCase
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There is a UV die you can add to the coolant to make a leak easier to find. The motor mounts are filled with fluid, dunno if it resembles dirty coolant.

Whatever hits the fan is not evenly distributed
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #15 of 34 Old 05-16-2019, 08:18 AM
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If you have a V8 and the WK-II thermostat housing and stat is the same as on the WK-I what can happen is that the integral gasket of the stat, starts to leak a bit. There is no gasket between the thermostat neck and the water pump housing, it is part of the stat itself. I had this on mine and it was an easy fix once I got that gigantic air intake plenum out of the way. So you just replace the stat. Hope yours is that simple.

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