Rough Country Strut replacement lift kit owners... - JeepForum.com
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 12 Old 06-14-2021, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
camaroboi13
Registered User
2017 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 8
Rough Country Strut replacement lift kit owners...

I'm looking for input on these for anyone who's successfully installed these or had them installed. There was a time when I was an ASE certified mechanic, so I'm no dummy when it comes to working on vehicles.



I purchased the $599 kit that replaces the whole strut assembly in the front, and comes with new shocks and springs in the rear. I started on the driver's side front. Tore everything apart, and replaced the strut. One of the new struts has an L on it, and the other has an R, any normal person would assume left and right. I attempted to install the one with an L on the driver's side, but nothing was lining up the way it should. The strut was laying right on top of the axle, and the Rough Country branded decal on the shock was facing inward towards the engine. Seems like a manufacturer would want to show off their brand by putting the decal facing outward towards the wheels. So I removed the strut and replaced it with the one that says R on it.


The strut lined up much better and allowed for more movement. I do notice however that the cv boot is slightly up against the clevis of the strut, and over time this will likely wear out and dump grease all over the place, prematurely destroying my axle. I MAY be able to get in there and move the boot just a hair to prevent this from happening, hard to tell just yet.


So on to the passenger side. I had a good idea what I was doing after many failed attempts on the driver's side. The passenger side took me 28 minutes to completely disassemble, and with the help of a ratcheting strap to bring the upper control arm to the steering knuckle, I was in and out in roughly two hours. Lastly, the sway bar...


I left the sway bar unbolted on both sides because I figured I'd do that last. The sway bar was so out of place that it would not allow the end links to be installed. I loosened the sway bar bushings to the point of being finger tight. The sway bar should be able to move very freely at this point. Not the case. Even with me on one side and my buddy on the other side, we could not pull hard enough to get the sway bar to drop or even budge for that matter. I literally had to pull my wife's Jeep to the bottom of the driveway and put her winch on the bar just to get it to move down. I finally got it low enough to put the links back on, but now they're in really funky angles. Bad enough to the point of binding on the tie rod ends from time to time. I know this can't be right, but I'm at a loss as to how to solve the problem. I'll post up pics tomorrow of what I'm looking at. Maybe someone here has run into this issue and can advise me of what I may be doing wrong.

camaroboi13 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 05:18 AM
emacca
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: gold coast, australia
Posts: 111
Sounds like you have the wrong kit, can you google the part numbers on the packaging and check

Or even photos may help
emacca is offline  
post #3 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 06:59 AM
ColdCase
My Reality Check Bounced
 
ColdCase's Avatar
2011 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: New England
Posts: 17,651
There may be a couple threads in the modification or build stickies that could help. They moved the sway bar attachment point in 2016, I think. It does sound like you got the wrong parts.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
ColdCase is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 07:02 AM
222Doc
Registered User
 
222Doc's Avatar
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Lake Havasu City
Posts: 10,151
Garage
china made....................

Home of the Parker Desert Splash

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
222Doc is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
camaroboi13
Registered User
2017 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by emacca View Post
Sounds like you have the wrong kit, can you google the part numbers on the packaging and check

Or even photos may help
Kit number 91430, the system won't let me post images just yet but I'll get those up later today.
camaroboi13 is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
camaroboi13
Registered User
2017 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
There may be a couple threads in the modification or build stickies that could help. They moved the sway bar attachment point in 2016, I think. It does sound like you got the wrong parts.

The parts I have are the correct ones. The struts I removed from the vehicle had ears with mounting holes for the sway bar end links. The struts I replaced them with have ears with mounting holes for the sway bar end links. The wrong parts would not have these ears on them.
camaroboi13 is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
camaroboi13
Registered User
2017 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
china made....................

Not everyone is willing to pay a fortune for "american made" either.
camaroboi13 is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 12:53 PM
ColdCase
My Reality Check Bounced
 
ColdCase's Avatar
2011 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: New England
Posts: 17,651
Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroboi13 View Post
..
I left the sway bar unbolted on both sides because I figured I'd do that last. The sway bar was so out of place that it would not allow the end links to be installed. I loosened the sway bar bushings to the point of being finger tight. The sway bar should be able to move very freely at this point.
The bushings are molded to the sway bar, the bar won't spin in the bushing unless they are broken.

Most choose OME as, well, it seems you get what you pay for in this case. I've seen dozens of reports of RR struts leaking at 10,000 miles. But you can always replace them with Bilstein or other aftermarket units..

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
ColdCase is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 03:54 PM
emacca
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: gold coast, australia
Posts: 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroboi13 View Post
The parts I have are the correct ones. The struts I removed from the vehicle had ears with mounting holes for the sway bar end links. The struts I replaced them with have ears with mounting holes for the sway bar end links. The wrong parts would not have these ears on them.
Sorry but if the parts are the correct ones as you state then why are you posting you have a problem.

Either they are the wrong parts or they have been incorrectly fitted.

As noted, and there is a “sticky” on the topic, there were difference in the front struts around 2015, or 2016 ( I’m not sure )

My thoughts would have been to lay each strut out alongside the original before installing and by so doing confirm it is the right side.

As an example I had bilstein struts for a Mazda that were clearly marked left and right, but on inspection they fitted the oppersite to marked sides
emacca is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
camaroboi13
Registered User
2017 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 8
Thumbs down

Quote:
Originally Posted by emacca View Post
Sorry but if the parts are the correct ones as you state then why are you posting you have a problem.

Either they are the wrong parts or they have been incorrectly fitted.

As noted, and there is a “sticky” on the topic, there were difference in the front struts around 2015, or 2016 ( I’m not sure )

My thoughts would have been to lay each strut out alongside the original before installing and by so doing confirm it is the right side.

As an example I had bilstein struts for a Mazda that were clearly marked left and right, but on inspection they fitted the oppersite to marked sides

It's 2016+ and mine is a 2017. The parts are correct, there's only two struts available from RC. Struts without ears with holes for sway bar end links, and struts with ears for sway bar end links.



I started with the driver's side first, unbolted the original strut, and put the strut with the L back on the driver's side. It did not fit right, so I swapped it out with the strut that said R. This strut actually went in place like it should. So both struts were fitted to the driver's side. One did not fit at all, and the other one has funky angles on the end link.



Why am I posting that I have a problem? Because I have a problem. That's why I'm looking for people who have installed these struts correctly in order to see what I am missing. Sometimes all it takes is just looking at another vehicle to figure out where I went wrong in my installation.



Apologies for not getting photos up, it was 109 degrees today and my garage was probably close to 120. A little rough trying to get out there and work on getting pictures. It's supposed to be 112 degrees tomorrow. I'm not winning in the automotive world this week
camaroboi13 is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old 06-15-2021, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
camaroboi13
Registered User
2017 WK 
 
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Bernardino
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
The bushings are molded to the sway bar, the bar won't spin in the bushing unless they are broken.

Thank you for clearing that up, never seen bushings molded to a sway bar before. So in this case, if you rip a bushing, you replace the whole sway bar?
camaroboi13 is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 06-16-2021, 07:23 AM
ColdCase
My Reality Check Bounced
 
ColdCase's Avatar
2011 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: New England
Posts: 17,651
Thats the official way, and the way a shop would do it. But if it isn't noisy you may well leave it be. If it squeaks, there is a thread indexed in the maintenance sticky where someone pried apart the mount and replaced noisy bushings.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
ColdCase is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome