Rear Brake Rub - Tips on Diagnostics and Repair? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 04-07-2020, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
11LimitedJGC
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Rear Brake Rub - Tips on Diagnostics and Repair?

Hi,


I've searched a little bit here, but haven't quite found the right situation. I have a 2011 GC, Limited, with towing package, v8. I think this means I have the HD brakes but will check my build sheet tonight to find out. Car has 83k miles on it.



Over the winter, when pulling out of the driveway I noticed a brake squeak from the passenger side rear brake. Only occasionally, so I left it alone since it was, you know, cold here in Minnesota. Now, after a moderate drive, say 30-45 minutes, I start getting some heat and a smell from that same corner. I have a brake rub somewhere.


Is this a known / common item on the rear brakes? Any common failure points to look at?



Before I commit to a full brake job, I think I'm going to tear down that side, and check. Please let me know if I'm on the right track:
1) See if I can locate the rub by spinning the hub with everything on it. Is it the parking brake or regular brakes rubbing...
2) Tear down to caliper pins, see if they are stuck
3) Check pads, is one side wearing more then the other


Does anyone have a good source of brake parts? I can go O'Reilly locally or Rock Auto....


Do you think this means I need a new caliper? Do they commonly begin to stick?


Thanks - Daniel in Minnesota,

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post #2 of 19 Old 04-07-2020, 04:03 PM
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The calipers are noted for sticking in the sliders, you may find the inboard pad worn out while the other one looks new. The sliders just need cleaned up, pads replaced, rotors while you are at it. Calipers should be good. Autozone mid line seems to be a decent quality WK2 rotor now days, but any reliable source should be OK. They will often give you the wrong rear rotors and sometimes even a brake tech won't notice (been there). The fronts are obvious but both kinds of rotors fit the rear physically. There are a couple brake threads indexed in the maintenance sticky that will have some tips. If you can, take the old rotors with you to the parts store and compare them with what they are trying to give you. May save a trip.

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post #3 of 19 Old 04-08-2020, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Cold Case to the rescue again. I did find the Brake Sticky that had all the part numbers so that helps me match up against my order sheet codes, so that helps.


I hope once I get into the rear brakes, it will be obviously the caliper slides, which I'll free up, clean up, lube up, and put back.....and will check condition of everything else once I am in there.


Since its been intermittent, hopefully I will have gotten to it before too much damage is done. Will be interesting once I crack it open.....


Daniel
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post #4 of 19 Old 04-08-2020, 09:11 AM
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I was out of town a year or so ago and my brakes seemed to be dragging. Put my hands on the wheels and the rears were getting really hot. A lot hotter than the front wheels.

Brought it to a shop since I couldn't DIY and they said my calipers were shot. I just put new rotors and pads on a month or so before.

They wanted to change the rotors again too but I said no. Cost me $700 bucks.

Anyway, same happened to the fronts a year later so I did that job at home with help from RA. If you DIY, make sure you have the HD or non HD brakes. Larger diameters for the HD brakes and the calipers won't interchange.
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post #5 of 19 Old 04-08-2020, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Allright, I checked my build sheet. It lists the Optional HD brakes but does NOT list an order code. My car is a North America / Canada spec Grand Cherokee. Cross referencing the brakes sticky, I think this means I have brake code "- BR6 - Heavy Duty Anti-Lock Brakes (Front-vented, rear-vented, for 18") 350mm vented rotors front and 330mm vented rear". Now, the only thing different, is that I have the optional 20" wheels. I don't think that matters.

Did I translate correctly?

So, if I need parts, I'll make sure it aligns with BR6. I'm hoping I can just free it all up without having to go too deep into parts, we will see.
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post #6 of 19 Old 04-08-2020, 02:54 PM
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There are only two brake systems, the bigger HD (with vented rears) and smaller SD (solid rears). Wheels or tires don’t make any difference. SRTs and TrackHawks are different. Don’t think codes will help you at the parts stores, sometimes their catalogs have the wrong rotor associated with a code anyway. Just make sure you get vented rears and the larger size front rotors.

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post #7 of 19 Old 04-09-2020, 08:46 AM
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I don't think 17" wheels will work on HD brakes. AMHIK

If rears are solid rotors, that should tell you they are NOT heavy duty.
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post #8 of 19 Old 04-09-2020, 09:34 AM
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Yeah, he was asking if 20 inch wheels should be considered while shopping. I was just saying that when shopping for rotors, they only put two kind on, so just look at whats currently installed. But yeah its pretty hard to find 17 inch wheels that over HD brakes and when shopping for wheels, its important to know which brakes you have,

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post #9 of 19 Old 04-09-2020, 12:54 PM
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As usual thanks to Cold Case for the information. I read the sticky brake info and noticed it applied only to 2011 to 2013 years. I did not want to start another thread just for this question which is "what changed in 2014?"
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post #10 of 19 Old 04-09-2020, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackB1 View Post
As usual thanks to Cold Case for the information. I read the sticky brake info and noticed it applied only to 2011 to 2013 years. I did not want to start another thread just for this question which is "what changed in 2014?"
As far as brakes, nothing I'm aware of, off hand. The Rockauto parts catalog list the same rotors and calipers for 2011-2020. There may be more current rev letters, however.

There were a few more aluminum suspension parts and a revised sway bar mount position through the years.

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Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #11 of 19 Old 04-10-2020, 04:18 AM
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Garage
This happened on my Subaru and it kept getting hot and smelt like burning brakes.

The brake pad had a little extra metal from when it was manufactured that cause it to be very hard to move in the slides.

All I did was file off the little piece of metal that was pinching it and it fixed everything.

Check for spots on the metal backing of the brake pad for wear and see if anything it catching, it can be as simple as that.


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post #12 of 19 Old 04-10-2020, 06:57 AM
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Do our brake pads ride on stainless steel clips on the carriers? (I have. It looked yet.)
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post #13 of 19 Old 04-10-2020, 02:36 PM
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I haven't seen any stainless steel, I think the caliper are good old cast iron and the caliper brackets are probably forged iron. The Slide pins could be stainless but more likely chromed steel. As a result the Steel brake pads slide on the iron/steel caliper mounts. If you don't drive much or drive in areas where the roads are salted they can rust. It can also be bad pads that are to lose and wedge.

Many people use a small amount of copper grease where the pads rest on the caliper mount. Note the small amount, if you use too much it is likely to get on the pads or rotors which in not good.
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post #14 of 19 Old 04-10-2020, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Allright - quick update. Today I thought I found the culprit - I had to hammer out a caliper slide pin. New pins, new grease, reassemble. Drive about 5 miles, and check. Just to the touch, its clear that it is still getting hotter then the other rear brake - so I don't think this solved my problem.


The brake pads are still ok - look like even wear, so I think I am ahead of a full brake job. I'm thinking the next step would be a new caliper.....do you agree?


Daniel
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post #15 of 19 Old 04-10-2020, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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More Pictures.......in case it matters.
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