QTII Transfer Case Clicking, Stuck in 4Low, Service 4WD Consolidated - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 78 Old 01-05-2021, 10:10 PM
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Spinning the shift fork manually can get things out of sync. So you didn't spin back the shift fork x turns after you rotated x turns to test resistance? From memory, I don't have the info in front of me, the position sensor varies resistance as the shift fork rotates. So if the controller is getting feedback from the motor that is inconsistent with where it thinks the rail position is it will throw the Ci476-00 code.

So you need to get the motor and position sensor and controller back in sync.

There is a relearn kiss point procedure that may work:

1. Ignition on, engine running.
2. Place the Transmission in neutral and apply the brakes firmly.
3. Place the Transfer Case Motor Selector Switch in AUTO.
4. With the scan tool, run the DTCM non-volatile reset command.
5. Place the Transmission in park.
6. Turn the ignition off to the lock position.
7. Wait for 10 seconds, and turn Ignition switch to Ignition on, engine not running.
8. With the scan tool, clear stored DTCs in the DTCM.
9. Switch the Transfer Case Motor Selector Switch to 4-Low and back to AUTO.
10. With the scan tool, read DTCs.


The electronically controlled wet clutch pack uses an electric motor to actuate an internal gear train, clutch cam, and low range barrel cam. The clutch cam actuates the clutch levers that apply normal force to the multi-disc wet clutch pack. The clutch discs are alternately splined to the front and rear drive shafts. When normal force is applied to this clutch pack, torque is transferred to equalize speed differences between front and rear axles.

You may have to get the transfer case back into neutral, verify the position sensor voltage, put the shift motor into the neutral position and reinstall, then run the reset procedure and relearn the kiss set point. But I dunno, someone should jump in here that has don it. You are probably getting shuddering in the front because the clutch pack/positions sensor/motor/controller is out of sync and the clutches have too much pressure on them.

I think there is a link in the FAQ tread to more detail on the transfer case.

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post #17 of 78 Old 02-03-2021, 03:11 PM
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WK2 3.6 2014 Clicking, rattle transfer case mp 3023

Hello, I imported another jeep wk2 from the usa, my 2014 3.6 i have a problem with tc viz from the very beginning, the motor knocked, clicked - with each change of position P R N D. after removing it, cleaning it, it stopped clicking - now it does not click when changing the position of the gear lever. in parallel, the 4wd low button and the TC neutral button do not work from the very beginning Interestingly, the response to the button is because after trying to switch to 4wd and the lever on P, there is a message about 4wd shifting switch to N. but it doesn't work do you have experience with similar cases? error in the drive module - no.

Greets from PL

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post #18 of 78 Old 02-04-2021, 01:44 PM
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There have been reports of any or all of the following causing similar problems:

Transfer case motor
Drivetrain Control Module
Position sensor
Switch panel
Jammed transfer case.

The clicking is probably he control module trying to spin the transfer case motor. Either the motor or module can burn out when this happens.

Try to get the DTCs read (Drivetrain Control Module codes).

If you want to throw parts at it, replace both the transfer case shift motor (sometimes called an actuator) and the Drivetrain control module and see what happens. This usually fixes the issue, if not its usually replace/rebuild the transfer case.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
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post #19 of 78 Old 02-05-2021, 08:56 AM
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@ColdCase
Thank You for Your Answer

yesterday I changed the module from the same jeep in which everything works

and so: the module shows a sensor error on this new module, the 4wd low button will change the position of the reducer, but no return - it does not change to 4hi / auto

later I also replaced the sensor - paradoxically, it still sees the sensor error after playing with the sensor - I turned it in different positions, the position shows that it is on 4wd, it lights up with the neutral TC indicator and the car runs without any problems, front, back, 4h - the reducer is not physically fastened

What do you think about it ?

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post #20 of 78 Old 02-05-2021, 09:00 AM
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the module, which in my opinion is damaged, does not show a sensor error but why the new module cannot switch from 4low to 4hi?

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post #21 of 78 Old 02-07-2021, 06:28 AM
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@ColdCase , does something come to your mind?

C1403
Only on efficient module

Does the module work plug and play or need it to program under vin?

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post #22 of 78 Old 02-07-2021, 02:16 PM
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There should be a -# code after the C1043. All are related to the range position sensor, however. -11 is short to ground, -12 is short to battery, -8F is erratic, -92 is incorrect operation.

The service manual says to check the harness for shorts or opens, then check the position sensor and if its working properly, replace the control module.

If you find no shorts or opens, for a C1403-92, you could disconnect Transfer Case Motor C2 harness connector then connect a jumper wire between the (T313) Mode Sensor Signal circuit and the (K594) Drivetrain Sensor Return circuit. Use the scan tool to read the T-case position sensor voltage (with ignition on). The voltage should be between 0.0 and 0.4 volts. If it is, replace the position sensor, if not replace the controller.

Also, for a C1403-11, if you connect a jumper wire between the (T313) Mode Sensor Signal circuit and the (K504) Drivetrain 5 volt supply circuit at the Transfer Case Motor C2 harness connector the voltage reading should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is, then you are replacing the motor, if not, then you are replacing the controller.

I don't have a 2014 wire diagram handy, but there is probably no changes to this one, which I think is from 2011.
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post #23 of 78 Old 02-08-2021, 01:51 PM
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@ColdCase , thx for your next great Answer
C1403-92

So the beam is checked, no short circuits. When C2 harness is connected, voltage is 0.04 VOLT between pin T313 and K594. Moreover, the voltage between T313 and K504 is 4.8 VOLT. It is so on the driver replaced from another car. Then the reducer is set manually according to the sensor for off-road gears. Billing of drives is not possible.
In addition, on the replaced driver, when you try to throw off the 4wd Low with a manual closure, it hits N - this is what the selector shows, it practically stays at 4wd low. turning off the engine resets the selector and disappears N.
On the original driver, it does not knock at N. It also does not knock off hand-stuck 4wd low.

The reducer works theoretically. During the test of the motor, after taking it out of the reducer, only short movements of the motor

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post #24 of 78 Old 02-08-2021, 06:26 PM
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Sorry, kind of hard to follow. Did you say you checked the position sensor? almost sounds like the position sensor is out of sync with the actual shift position or failed. But then I dunno.

I've read that installing the sensor can be tricky.

"First, line up the sensor arm arrow with the internal line on the inside of the sensor. Line up the shift shaft assembly in the case with the part of the case marked by the red dot. Install the sensor and the bolt holes will not line up. Rotate the installed sensor CLOCKWISE until the bolt holes line up and secure the sensor with the attaching bolts. If you turn the sensor counterclockwise you will be 180 degrees out on the clutch pack with a whole new set of problems. If a new sensor does not cure the problem, the control module will need to be replaced."

Otherwise, what does the fluid look like? if it is burnt go no further, you will need to rebuild the transfer case. The lined clutches and steel plates in the clutch pack are very thin and will warp immediately under abuse. Once they are warped, clutch clearance and drag can never be correct and the unit will only be repaired by a rebuild and curing of any external problems that will beat up the clutch pack again. If the tire sizes and pressures are correct, binding on turns, and/or a clunk or thud on takeoff usually indicates a failed position sensor. If you have a shift motor that clicks, most of the time the motor will need replacing.

Sorry I'm not much help, but the 3023 transfer case can be a diagnostic nightmare. GM used the same case in some of their light trucks, if you can find a shop familiar with GM transfer cases, it may help.
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Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #25 of 78 Old 02-11-2021, 10:25 AM
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@ColdCase
Thx, i I have read your statements on other topics before and I found the same photos.

we changed the module and the motor and the problem disappeared ... I wonder what could be the cause of the failure of both elements

tc flips back and forth each time you press the button. interestingly, on a working engine, nothing is happening - it does not work. on a functional module, after pressing the button, an error and a 4wdlow lamp on selektorxe along with N - but the postiob does not change


now I'm looking for a repair option for the motor and possibly the module

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post #26 of 78 Old 02-11-2021, 11:44 AM
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It seems like one of the control module failure modes burns out the motor, and one of the motor failure modes burns out the module. Its common here to replace both as a precaution.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #27 of 78 Old 02-11-2021, 12:02 PM
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thank you

and is the module assigned to vin or is it just p & p? and are the numbers important?
what to pay attention to when buying?

in the motor, the brushes look okay, the electromagnet has probably fallen - is it repairable?

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post #28 of 78 Old 02-11-2021, 12:17 PM
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I think someone from the UK found a way to repair the shift motor and posted a thread here awhile ago. I don't recall the details.

The control module is plug and play, no programming involved.

Part numbers 5150732AE and 5150733AE are listed for 2014. Dunno the right one for you or if it makes a difference. OEM MOPAR parts suppliers will look up the right part based on your VIN.

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Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #29 of 78 Old 02-22-2021, 02:29 PM
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Hello,
@ColdCase
the module and the motor have been replaced. easily switches to 4wd low and back well, maybe except for one problem ...
on 4wd low I feel that it is on the reducer, it's hard to turn back in place, the cluster show that it moves from second gear - it's OK

but, on 4hi I feel that it is stiffly fastened but if less .. it starts from first gear, you can maneuver in place .. but you can not drive smoothly with the car as in 4hi, I have a speed of 40kmh and I have 8th gear and the speed is close to 2 000 rpm. is very sensitive to the accelerator pedal, when starting from the place it moves like 4wd low ..

what could have gone wrong?

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post #30 of 78 Old 02-22-2021, 02:46 PM
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Sounds like the transfer case clutches are dragging and are not fully releasing. So they do not slip and it acts more like a traditional part time transfer case locked in 4Hi instead of a transfer case in the 2WD position?

If that describes what you are seeing:

1) Perhaps the clutch kiss point is off calibration, and the controller is holding the clutches too tight. There is a diagnostic routine that calibrates the kiss point.

2) Perhaps the position sensor is off/miss-aligned

3) Or the clutch plates are warped and are not fully releasing. That requires a transfer case rebuild.

Is the fluid level OK?

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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