no power Passenger headlight housing!? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 10-15-2019, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
darkdiesel
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no power Passenger headlight housing!?

Good evening, I am new to the forums thank you for having me... I wanted to be sure I properly diagnosed an issue prior to ordering parts and taking the bumper off...

My passenger side headlight (SRT8 bi-xenons) entire housing has no power. Checked fuses (the two I saw for Left and right HID both are good replaced them for good measure) still no halo, no bulb no turn signal. So if all three of those are down not just the bixenon that would point to the ballast going bad correct?

unless theres some other inline fuse I cant see somewhere. Should I order a new ballast and tear her down this weekend?

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post #2 of 15 Old 10-15-2019, 08:16 PM
ColdCase
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I don't think you mentioned model year, in general all the different bulbs are controlled by independent circuits from the TIPM circuit board and a couple 12VDC sources from the TIPM for leveling and balast. If nothing is working in the housing I'd suspect the ground, which I think is a single point. If you can get a hold of a scanner that can read TIPM faults, that may give you a better idea before tearing everything apart. Does the fog light work on that side? In some models the fog light and headlight housing grounds are spliced together. The leveling motor, if the SRT has one, has been known to short and cause issues.

If you are not getting any power from the TIPM on any of the bulb circuits, you may have a faulty TIPM... but maybe double check all the fuses just in case.

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Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-15-2019, 08:47 PM
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I agree... Run up to the nearest Harbor Freight, buy a Cheap Digital multimeter a pack of spade connectors and alligator clamps that are small enough to slide over the ends of your dmm probes (if you dont have a harbor freight walmart will work) also pick up some trailer light connector cleaner, use the cleaner on the car side connector and with the lights on, slide an appropriate spade connector into that harness, clip the gator clip on the spade terminal and start checking for voltage at all terminals. REMEMBER it is possible to read the wrong side of the circuit so unless you have a diagram telling you which are positive and which are ground you need to read them all until you find the ground, if you find no positive voltages you either have a damaged ground or power lead coming into the connector.
Always look to a bad connector first when you have no output on the entire assembly. This will tell you which direction to go without wasting a lot of time. It doessnt matter what you are working on.
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-16-2019, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning guys thank you very much and I apologize I created the account laser night and forgot all my details...

The Jeep is a 2014 limited, 3.0L turbo diesel. The headlights I have had for years transplanted from an srt8. They have worked flawlessly from the day I installed them. Fog lights are high power LEDs but are not spliced to the headlight housing so I DO have both dogs and driver side lights. The LED halo xenon and turn signal are all dead passenger side.

I think only the dealers can read those codes unfortunately. I avoid them at all costs it’s robbery dealing with them here in Annapolis.

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post #5 of 15 Old 10-16-2019, 07:57 AM
ColdCase
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Appcare and AlfaOBD are scanning software that can read all the codes, there are others.

Did you say you measured the voltages and the continuity to ground at the headlight connector? I don't have a 2014 wiring diagram handy.

The ballast would not affect the halos or turn signals.

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-16-2019, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
darkdiesel
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I am now leaning to a bad ground on that side. It couldnt be power since the drivers side is working, if you say the ballast wouldnt affect the other lights then that isnt it either. It IS a specific harness custom made for me to go from stock halogens to the bixenon headlights and housings from the SRT8 so I remember the resistors location is not 100% ideal and may be corroded. I will attempt to search tonight and take the front end off and retrace my steps..

Thank you guys I will update. May need some dielectric grease to slow corrosion.
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-16-2019, 11:54 AM
ColdCase
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Dunno how the custom harness is connected, or how it adapts from OEM halogen wiring. I was commenting on the OEM HIDs. OEM halogen and HIDs are connected up quite differently, and it could be anything. Looking for corrosion or bad connections is probably a good idea.

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #8 of 15 Old 10-17-2019, 08:44 PM
lawdocjoe
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DarkD - Am I understanding correctly that the lights are transplants from an SRT8? Does this give better lighting? Notice a lot of complaints about stock lights on the 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee in terms of brightness. I drove a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee for 16 years and 180K miles - never had a headlamp go bad. Now my 2015 with less than 26K miles has a passenger headlight that is plumb dumb out. Looking for ColdCase to weigh in with any wisdom... Thanks.
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post #9 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
darkdiesel
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Hey bud. So my SRT8 conversion was the best thing I ever did to my jeep. I spent a lot of money deleting all the chrome and blacking it out, modifying the engine ect. The headlights completely changed it. My wife has poor vision and I have DARK tint and these HID's and HID fogs transformed the light output dramatically.
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post #10 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 02:00 PM
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No doubt they look nice and outperform the stock. My Jeep looks a lot like that. Paid $800 to powder coat the nice shiny chrome window trim as well. But, $3K for new headlights? Wish I had that to spend - looks very good!
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post #11 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
darkdiesel
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I would never pay $3000 for headlights, Check Ebay people are totaling SRT8s all the time. I got my lights for $400 each and a wiring harness built for $250
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post #12 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: I have been staring at my jeep in pieces trying to find out how the hell to fix this problem... I have power off the fuse box. power half way I been cutting wires and testing... at the socket i dont have power... Switched the passenger light (dead one) to the drivers side and it worked fine. I dont know what else to do to fix this. SOMETHING is easy I just dont have the know how to fix it.... Jeep wouldnt work on it im sure since its custom and I am not sure who aside from me would understand it due to it being custom

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post #13 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 02:46 PM
lawdocjoe
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I'd use a dealership "lifeline". They have installed SRT parts on mine that I have purchased. Just shake some hands and find the right person...
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post #14 of 15 Old 10-18-2019, 04:48 PM
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Would whoever fabricated the harness be able to help?

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #15 of 15 Old 10-19-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
darkdiesel
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Hope so I reached out to them since these harnesses go for about $500 I can’t afford to get a completely new one. The guy might not make them anymore it’s been years. I emailed a few people asking if I can just get half a kit

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