Need help with used grand Cherokee - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-09-2020, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
Plaurenz
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Need help with used grand Cherokee

Hi everyone. I’ve never owned a Jeep before, and my last two vehicles have been leased. I’m not knowledgable with cars to say the least. But I am interested in purchasing a grand Cherokee. I’m looking at the 2015 and 2016 overlands. The one I really like costs 20k and has 80,000 miles on it. How do these cars age would I have to worry about costly fixes popping up? Should I look into purchasing an extended warranty? Any information on used grand Cherokees would be great. Thanks!

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post #2 of 18 Old 04-09-2020, 11:41 PM
ColdCase
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https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309...d-wk2-4376453/

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #3 of 18 Old 04-12-2020, 12:12 PM
SouthDakota
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Definitely read that thread coldcase linked. Lots of good information.

The vast majority of these WK2s have no issues, but those are the ones to be aware of. We traded in a 2014 Limited for our current 2018 Trailhawk. The 2014, being the first year of a major refresh for the WK2, was known to be more issue prone than most other model years, yet the only issue we had was a water pump slow leak at around 34k miles (replaced under warranty). So don't necessarily let that thread scare you, but be aware of the things to look out for.

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post #4 of 18 Old 04-12-2020, 03:30 PM
Natzoo
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I would definitely look at a warranty and steer towards 2016, assuming you are purchasing one with the 3.6L. The engine was upgraded for the 2016 model.
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post #5 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 06:24 AM
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Reporting in on our 2011 Overland with 133k now. The water pump failed at 110k miles and we serviced the auto transmission at the same time, with both filters and new synthetic fluid. This model has a wonderfully smooth ride, with the air suspension, and no issues have occurred with it. One headlight burned out, and it's a bit pricey as it's a high intensity bulb but we were able to do that ourselves. We do most of our own maintenance and have a 1995 XJ with 266k miles on it's original powertrain, so we're hoping the 2011 can reach this same mileage on it's factory powertrain. My primary advice is to research on this forum any issues you encounter, as dealers will generally try to milk you for fees on anything they do -- ( ours wanted $450 to change the trans fluid !!) and though we have had several recall items and our car goes to the dealer for those things, we don't use them as they seem to work for low hanging fruit by overcharging for the simple things and avoid any work that takes a real mechanic to analyze. Oh, we are now replacing tires, which keeps the road performance solid. Just get the service history and change fluids frequently.... See recommendations for 2016 over 2014-15

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post #6 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 10:30 AM
rjlindblom
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Garage
When I starting shopping for mine I decided that the oldest I would go was 2015. I was also wanting lower mileage. I went with the Limited. I didn't want to mess with the air suspension. I am liking the 3.6 in my 2018.It was more than I wanted to spend, however it was well worth it.

Ryan
2018 WK2, Limited. Purchased 12-27-2019
2016 Compass. Traded 12-27-2019
KE0LXT
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post #7 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
Plaurenz
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Awesome. Thanks for the input guys. After doing some reading and seeing everyone’s posts, my current plan is to find a 2016 overland. It seems as though If I can find a certified one with low mileage, I may be able to avoid purchasing an expensive extended warranty at least for a few years. On the other hand, if it is just used and has upwards of 60k miles or more, I should get the extended warranty. Does this thought process make sense? And as far as extended warranties do you think bumper to bumper is necessary, or perhaps one just with power/drive train coverage? Thanks!
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post #8 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 11:59 AM
ColdCase
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Drivetrain coverage is basically limited to engine and transmissions, expensive to repair but rarely need expensive repairs. The more feature rich Jeeps like the Overland, have the potential for costly suspension, RADAR, radio, etc repair. If it were me I wouldn't consider a drivetrain, just put some money away to cover repairs. The MacCare Bumper to Bumper may be worthwhile on an Overland, but its also going to cost much more. Also, always buy the factory warranty, its rare that third party warranties pushed by some dealers work out in the long run.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #9 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 04:07 PM
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I just bought a '14 Limited from Hertz, it was a trade-in. Not sure what year the shifter was changed but try to avoid the goofy style like my '14 has. Look for corrosion on the leading edge of the hood. Depending on the year it may still be under the original Jeep Warranty. As an example my '14 has/had a 5/100k while a '16 has/had a 5/60k. Depending when it was sold a '16 could have a lot of warranty remaining.
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post #10 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
Plaurenz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
Drivetrain coverage is basically limited to engine and transmissions, expensive to repair but rarely need expensive repairs. The more feature rich Jeeps like the Overland, have the potential for costly suspension, RADAR, radio, etc repair. If it were me I wouldn't consider a drivetrain, just put some money away to cover repairs. The MacCare Bumper to Bumper may be worthwhile on an Overland, but its also going to cost much more. Also, always buy the factory warranty, its rare that third party warranties pushed by some dealers work out in the long run.
Thanks so much. However when you say buy the factory warranty what exactly do you mean by this? So let’s say I’m buying a 2016 overland from a jeep dealership whether it’s certified or not, do you mean jeep themselves may offer an extended warranty and to purchase that instead of a 3rd party such as carchex? Thanks! Sorry for my dumb questions haha leasing cars has taught me nothing.
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 06:44 PM
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You want a warranty sold by FCA, otherwise known as MOPAR like this one:

https://www.chryslerwarrantys.com/maximum_care.cfm

You probably get a better deals at a on-line seller like this one than a local dealer, there have been a few discussed here, perhaps search the forum for Robbins for more info. It doesn't matter where you buy the warranty, any dealer will service it, although it may be more convenient from the selling dealer.

Pre-Owned vehicle extended warranty terms always start from the purchase date of the plan. This means that if you have 37,000 miles on your vehicle and purchase a 5 year/60,000 mile plan, it will expire 5 years from when you purchase the coverage or when your odometer reads 97,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Pricing changes dramatically as your vehicle reaches various mileage milestones. The tiers of pricing are as follows: under 36,000 miles, between 36,001 and 48,000, between 48,001 and 60,000 miles, between 60,001 and 72,000 miles, between 72,001 and 84,000 miles, between 84,001 and 100,000 miles, between 100,001 and 120,000 miles and between 120,001 and 150,000 miles. Plan inception mileage is recorded by the inspector that checks for pre-existing conditions that may need to be addressed prior to your coverage going into effect.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-13-2020, 08:34 PM
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Remember, if you purchase a MOPAR warranty after the original 3yr/36,000 has expired, the car must undergo and pass a Jeep full inspection. There is a specific form that must be filled out by the dealer technician, who will need to sign the form.

Any problems would have to be fixed before the warranty can be purchased. If the car is still under the original 3/36, then no inspection is required.

If your purchasing a CPO vehicle that is out of the 3/36 then you probably dont need the inspection.
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-18-2020, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
Plaurenz
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So I’ve now done a lot more research, but still am at indecision on how to go about the purchase. My budget is at 30k I really don’t want to spend more but here is my dilemma. All suggestions welcome. I’m looking at 2016-2017 overlands, and basically have a couple options. Spend around 25 or so on one with 40-50k miles and get a 5 year max warranty, which runs in the 3 thousand range, or I saw one with only 10k miles and thought maybe I can go a while without purchasing a warranty. That car is 30k though. Keep in mind all the vehicles I’m looking at are Certified pre owned. Is it right to think I find an ultra low mileage one that I can skip out on the warranty? My thinking is it will be worth more money in the end, and spending a lot of money on warranties on a higher mileage car will cost more in the end. Thanks!
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-19-2020, 01:49 PM
9496ZJs
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Love my 2016 Overland V8. I’m at 36kmiles and out of factory bumper to bumper. I bought it new and soon after tacked on a Lifetime Maxcare wty purchased through a separate dealer via an internet search (saved $500 vs dealer where I bought the car)..

The shifter issue was resolved by then; it’s normal in that you can look at the position and can tell what it’s in. Not like the bump-to-shift levers of prior years that caused lots of unintended accidents. Maybe that was fixed in 2015?

I’ve watched many people complain about water pumps and Nav units being bad, but I think mid-2016 model years don’t have that problem. I don’t.

As far as long term issues, just make sure the prior owner maintained the Jeep. Usual suspects like oil changes and brakes. Maybe transfer case and differential gear lube changes if they towed or you might tow stuff.
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post #15 of 18 Old 04-19-2020, 05:03 PM
SouthDakota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9496ZJs View Post
The shifter issue was resolved by then; it’s normal in that you can look at the position and can tell what it’s in. Not like the bump-to-shift levers of prior years that caused lots of unintended accidents. Maybe that was fixed in 2015?
In my opinion, it wasn't the shifter, it was people that simply didn't bother to get used to it. Rather than check what gear they were in, they just assumed they had pushed it far enough to be in Park, and they hadn't. A software update later mostly resolved this where if the door was open for long enough, it automatically shifted to park. People seemed to hate that "fix" just as much.

I get it if you don't like the shifter, to each their own, but some folks are overly vocal about it to the point I wondered why they bought the car.

2014-2015 had the different style shifter. 2016 was the switch back to the "old fashioned" style. The next generation Jeep GC supposedly has the rotary knob style shifter, like in the RAM trucks and Durangos; I bet a lot of people won't like that change either. I got used to the rotary shifter in my Ram really quickly, and the shifter in the 2014 WK2 we had before the current 2018. I don't really understand what all the fuss is about. One thing is for sure, the shifter in the 2016+ do not shift to the desired gear as quickly as the 2014-2015.
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