Just changed my pads and rotors, if I can help anyone. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 39 Old 10-17-2015, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
kryogen
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Just changed my pads and rotors, if I can help anyone.

Just a post to sum it up:

Changed brakes on my 2011 grand cherokee overland with hd brakes.

I bought the raybestos advanced technology pads and rotors. They fit perfectly OEM like.
I had planned to change only the pads, but the rotors were badly corroded around the outside edge, more than 1/2 inch on the inside of the front rotor, and the pads were grooved, so new pads on those rotors was not a good option.

Front:

You need a 11mm hex socket to remove the caliper. I bought mine on amazon as it's a size that you can't find anywhere in town, or in a kit. Don't do it with 10mm as you might just strip the thing.

You can turn the steering and use an impact to remove the front caliper bracket. I can't remember the front caliper bracket bolt size, but it's a standard size socket so it's not an issue. Clearance is good if you turn the wheel, you can use anything you like.

My rotors were REALLY rusted on the hubs. It required many blows with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Then you should use a metal brush to scrub most rust off, and apply anti seize to the hub before reinstalling the new rotor. Clean and lube your caliper slide pins with proper brake grease. (I like pure silicon grease on those as it does not degrade the rubber boot and bind, like almost all brake greases do, even if they advertise that they don't degrade rubber, they do...).

I do use regular brake grease on all the pad backing plate to bracket/caliper contact areas (clean with wire brush before). It reduces noise and corrosion.

The rear calipers were a pain to do.
You need a 7mm hex. The top bolt can be removed with a ratchet, but it didnt fit for the lower one. I had to use an allen key to break it loose, and then (unless you want to insert, turn a quarter turn, remove, repeat, 30 times or so), I used a micro-mini ratchet for the lower one with a 6mm hex (largest I had. Was not ok to apply any torque, but it worked to just "unscrew it fast once loose". (realllyy tight clearance).

As for the rear 18mm caliper bracket bolts, you cant fit an impact or a ratchet there, so it was a wrench and sledge hammer to break those loose. I hate that.

Not too bad, took 4 hours to do all four, a lot of time wasted because it's really tight in my garage, access was bad and all rotors were stuck.

Brake fluid is really dirty now that I have pushed it back into the reservoir. Probably would be a good idea to bleed the brakes at the same time also. I was short on time and I was alone to do the job, so I guess that I'll do that next spring when I switch tires.

Use anti seize on all the bolt threads before re-tightening. I like to dilute my anti seize with some engine oil, it makes it more liquid and easier to apply a fine coat.

Finally, I question the reason why chrysler used a 11mm and 7mm hex to hold the calipers, as they are both not standard sizes, and you usually don't have either of those in a tool kit. I had to buy the 11mm online, and I was lucky to find a 7mm hex key in one of my kits, because most did not have it. (why not just 10/6 or 12/8, seriously). It's not a high torque fastener. No valid reason other than making it a bit more difficult for the average DIY to change their brakes. (That's just my point of view).

Thanks all.

Edit: there may have been some size changes starting in 2017, rear caliper bolts may be 9mm instead of 7, and you may need a 6 point socket for the front bracket.


2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, QD, QL
Nokian Hakkapelita 8 SUV Studded winter tires
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post #2 of 39 Old 10-17-2015, 05:35 PM
ColdCase
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Thanks

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #3 of 39 Old 10-18-2015, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
kryogen
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Just a report, the parts work fine, no pulsation, good braking, no noise. Oem like.

Those hd rotors are huge compared to what you usually see on smaller suvs and cars. Really heavy.

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post #4 of 39 Old 10-18-2015, 04:55 PM
silverfox9142
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Kryogen, how many mies did you have on the rotors and pads before replacement?
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post #5 of 39 Old 10-18-2015, 06:48 PM
Ah673000
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Thx ... Excellent DIY guide developed from real experience.

FYI.... Jeep is not alone in using those hex sizes... My 1997 BMW 528i also uses them. So does my 2002 WJ Jeep GC. I was in Europe on business years ago , so I went to a hardware store.... Those odd sizes are a stock size there so I picked up a couple at $10 euros each!
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post #6 of 39 Old 10-18-2015, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
kryogen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfox9142 View Post
Kryogen, how many mies did you have on the rotors and pads before replacement?
60 000km or so.
The issue is more with 4 winters with salt on the roads. It just destroys rotors.
The rotors were badly rusted, and the outside edges had swollen more than half an inch width from the edge and had eaten into the pads quite severely.

Pads were getting thinner, and I could not just replace the pads.

I usually change pads when they are at 25%. I don't like brake failures, I would rather change the pads a bit early. And with all the salt and rust here, usually, when pads are worn, rotors are ruined from the rust....

I plan to keep the jeep for 1.5 more years, and I could not have done it with the stock pads. Replace now or later, I am going to sell the jeep in spring 2017 anyway, and I'll need new brakes before that, so changing now before winter is just more convenient for me.

Rotors were still way more than min thickness, but they were also warped. rust + warp, imo, equals replacement. Turning just reduces thickness, on an already rusted and worn rotor, not worth it to me.
Safety first. No compromise on braking. I have a family.

Someone who lives in the usa in a warm climate pobably doesnt need to replace rotors for a long time if not warped, as mine were barely "worn" after 60 000km.

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post #7 of 39 Old 10-18-2015, 09:49 PM
Ah673000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryogen
60 000km or so. The issue is more with 4 winters with salt on the roads. It just destroys rotors. The rotors were badly rusted, and the outside edges had swollen more than half an inch width from the edge and had eaten into the pads quite severely. Pads were getting thinner, and I could not just replace the pads. I usually change pads when they are at 25%. I don't like brake failures, I would rather change the pads a bit early. And with all the salt and rust here, usually, when pads are worn, rotors are ruined from the rust.... I plan to keep the jeep for 1.5 more years, and I could not have done it with the stock pads. Replace now or later, I am going to sell the jeep in spring 2017 anyway, and I'll need new brakes before that, so changing now before winter is just more convenient for me. Rotors were still way more than min thickness, but they were also warped. rust + warp, imo, equals replacement. Turning just reduces thickness, on an already rusted and worn rotor, not worth it to me. Safety first. No compromise on braking. I have a family. Someone who lives in the usa in a warm climate pobably doesnt need to replace rotors for a long time if not warped, as mine were barely "worn" after 60 000km.
K... That has been my experience with a non salt exposed '02 WJ GC..... Replaced rotors at 90 k and again 180 k miles. Thinned to minimum but little corrosion . At the last replacement I found the calipers needed to be rebuilt and the back hoses needed replacement .
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post #8 of 39 Old 10-20-2015, 07:51 AM
Dabitz
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You can use the jack to raise the rear at a level where you can reach the bottom screw. What I do is I raise it and seat it on a tower (rear door jack point) and then raise the rear suspension to a point where both bolts can be reached.
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post #9 of 39 Old 05-04-2016, 06:48 PM
spinxt
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Has anyone tackled the rear e brake pads? Mine are shot...my ebrake is at max adjustment and the pedal still goes almost to the floor.
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post #10 of 39 Old 05-06-2016, 05:16 AM Thread Starter
kryogen
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I dont see it being an issue. Remove both rear rotors and have a look, maybe its just the adjusters and not the pads

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post #11 of 39 Old 05-06-2016, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
kryogen
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Ebrake pads is an ez job, just change the parts, adjust tension and done.

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post #12 of 39 Old 05-06-2016, 07:02 AM
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The parking brake is just a little drum brake within the rear rotor. Its the same thing they've been using on Grand Cherokees since 1999. They have the traditional star wheel adjusters on them. Access hole has plug. Usually they just need adjusting.

To remove the rear rotor to inspect, you will probably need to disconnect the rear parking brake cables from the equalizer (under the car). Otherwise the rotor may have a wear ridge that may not clear the shoes.

Replacing the shoes are similar to any drum brake, take a photo so you know how its suppose to go back together, remove the shoe return spring, remove the adjuster, remove the hold down clips and pins, unhook the cable and remove shoes. You remove and transfer the actuator and spring to the new shoes.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #13 of 39 Old 05-06-2016, 02:03 PM
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Like Coldcase stated, adjust it at the wheel before replacing.

Roy
2014 Overland, 3.6 L
Fumoto Qwikvalve, Ionic CXV running boards, Michelin X-Ice Xi2 snow tires
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post #14 of 39 Old 05-06-2016, 08:47 PM
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Just finished front rotors and pads as well. One thing I would like to add is that there is a rubber o-ring that must be removed before the rotor will come off. Found this out after many attempts trying to remove the rotor. Just use a small screw driver to pry up and pull off. Not sure if it is needed or not but mine had it so I put it back on. I have never seen anything like that before on any other car I have ever done.
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post #15 of 39 Old 05-07-2016, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
kryogen
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yup, true, that rubber oring gave me some grief also.

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