HELP! 2011 WK2 will NOT move!! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-26-2018, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
dosjeepnees
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HELP! 2011 WK2 will NOT move!!

2011, V6, Quadra-tracII, owned since new, 120k miles, no problems at all except for the HVAC blend door. Shifter operates normally, and display on EVIC show going into different gears, but vehicle will NOT move. Maybe about an inch.

Wife had the oil changed a week ago, and parked it, not driven since. Drove fine 20 miles from the dealership. She's been driving her 'summer' car, and we decided to take the GC out for dinner on Sunday...oh well

No lights or errors showing anywhere

I've put it into flat-towing neutral mode, still cant budge it. Only been able to get one rear wheel off so far to make sure parking brakes not stuck, but it's parked on flat part of the driveway and parking brake wasn't applied in that spot. Afraid to call a flatbed to haul it to dealers since I don't know if dragging it up will do more damage.

It almost sounds and feels like the parking pawl is stuck in the trans? Searched here but didn't find anything like that.

Thanks folks!

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post #2 of 11 Old 06-26-2018, 04:45 PM
ColdCase
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Sure sounds like one or both of the the parking brakes have stuck to the hubs. I had that happen to mine after parked a week at the airport. Could be something fell apart in the dif. Did she drive it home from the dealer with the parking brake applied

Flat tow neutral is beyond the parking pawl, only holding the vehicle back is the brakes.

Did the dealer adjust the brakes? Tow operators here will put the stuck wheels on a low trolley, or sliding mat to save wear and tear on the drive train.

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-26-2018, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
dosjeepnees
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Thanks for the info about the pawl. I'm hoping it's the other parking brake that I still haven't got to yet. I don't 'think' she would drive it home with the park brake on. If she did, that means they put the park brake on at the dealership, but the light should have gotten her attention. If the light is working. I didn't check that yet. I'll also check the receipt to see if they adjusted the brakes. I can't imagine they would go above and beyond on anything. this dealership is not bad, but certainly not great. Hey, I understand, it's a business.

We did have a LOT of rain and heat and humidity here in the week after it was parked. That's the main reason I tore into the brakes on the one side.

I'll find out in the morning when i pull the other side apart.

Thanks again. Ill definitely update with what I find.
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-27-2018, 07:16 AM
ColdCase
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Usually they release quicker when trying to drive in reverse, or rocking back and forth. I haven't heard of them sticking when released. Good luck.

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-02-2018, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
dosjeepnees
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Update!!! It's either bad...or VERY bad!!! Either CV joint/shaft, or rear diff. Shame too. Most comfortable vehicle I've ridden in lately. But if it's either of those things, it's done for us!! Can't have my wifes vehicle locking up like that with no warning. She got extremely lucky that it happened while just sitting in the driveway.

Shame Chrysler can't make a reliable vehicle. We'll be off to the Chevy or Honda dealer next!! Should I just torch this thing in my front yard? Local volunteer FD could always use a training exercise.
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-03-2018, 08:42 AM
bpsmicro
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In fairness, 7 years and 120k miles and I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to see CV problems. I've owned multiple brands of FWD & AWD, including Japanese, and I don't think I've ever gotten that high a mileage without at least some parts replacements in that general area. But normally there'd be some pre-hint, like "funny noises" while highway driving.


I'd like to believe that the dealer's mechanic would have noticed something amiss while wheeling it in/out of the bay for the oil change. Around here, the dealer mechanic would usually lift it on the hoist to drain the oil, and take a quick peek to see what other service they can up-sell. In the occasions where my spouse takes any vehicle in for service and they "find something", the rule is to tell them to note it on the invoice, and I get an independent check (our local Mazda dealer was the worst for "finding stuff" that was nowhere near requiring work done).


I think if you get the errant parts replaced/repaired, and you stick with manufacturers parts (not cheap 3rd-party stuff, even if the dealer offers them), you'll be good for a while. If it is CV-related, get both sides done.


Brad.

2017 Grand Cherokee Overland, 5.7l Hemi, all the techy stuff.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-03-2018, 08:56 AM
ColdCase
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Yeah, you will find similar if not worse horror stories in all brand's forums.

I don't think I've ever heard or seen a CV joint lock up such that it won't turn. Noisy as heck, falling apart, but never stopping you to the point of not moving..

So perhaps the diff, was the oil level checked recently? Or perhaps the wheel bearing is locked up, those seem to be weak on this model. Debris stuck in the wheel or drive shaft? Someone playing a practical joke .

Does it move when the transfer case is in neutral?

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-03-2018, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
dosjeepnees
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CC, I've been all under the back end for about 5 hours total. The wheel bearings I think are ok, at least those are not stopping the drive axles from turning about 1/4" on each side. The pass side has a very odd clank sound when it hits the end of it's 1/4" travel. That side is also in an odd position where the small end of the boot attaches to the shaft. And no. it will not move with the transfercase in neutral. Tried that 4 different times.

There is a very slight wet area on the drivers side of the diff where the CV shaft goes in. No dripping areas. I couldn't find the fill plug, so cant tell if the oil in the diff was ever checked and wasn't able to check it without opening the drain plug. That will be in the morning. I had to give up yesterday, too hot. Is there a magnet on the drain plug?


Brad, the dealer has NEVER mentioned anything about the CVs or the rear diff. I'm not sure the diff has ever been checked. I understand that the CVs are a wear item, but like you mentioned, I thought there would be some sort of warning. Also not happy about the ~$400 parts price, for each side. Thats before labor is added at the paltry rate of $100/hour!!

Still pissed
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-03-2018, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
dosjeepnees
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And hopefully if it IS bad CVs, they haven't taken out the rear diff. It's only 11 more bolts to get it out once the rear axles are off, but the diff itself is another thou!!
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post #10 of 11 Old 07-08-2018, 05:20 PM
martin12qw
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Are you sure the parking brakes are not stuck?
Had that yesterday on wife’s 2011.
Live near Montreal, Canada, lots of salt and humidity.
Applied the parking brake to test motor mounts mouvement (changed the mounts).
Drove in the garage, tried to push by hand for lift positionnement, was hard to move, made a clicking sound.
Found the parking brake mechanism in the rotor totally rusted together.
Will post some photos
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-08-2018, 06:04 PM
martin12qw
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See the photo,
The small lever meved to apply the brakes but the ressorts force wasn’t enuegh for rappel
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20180707_110438_resized.jpg   20180707_111827_resized.jpg  
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