Front End Rebuild Time - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 04-03-2021, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
RedTrex
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Front End Rebuild Time

Don't see anything via search....
135K and I want to rebuild front end.
I'm thinking:
-Inner/Outer Ties rods
-Upper Arms with Ball joints

But can't decide on replacing entire lower arms to freshen up the 3 bushings or just replace the lower ball joints

and Mopar, Moog, or something else

any thoughts?


2003 Libby 2x4 (Gone)
2004 Libby 4x4 (Gone)
2013 Wrangler JKU (Gone)
2014 WK2 Ecodiesel (485 tq)
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post #2 of 21 Old 04-03-2021, 11:24 AM
Jd41wk2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTrex View Post
Don't see anything via search....

135K and I want to rebuild front end.

I'm thinking:

-Inner/Outer Ties rods

-Upper Arms with Ball joints



But can't decide on replacing entire lower arms to freshen up the 3 bushings or just replace the lower ball joints



and Mopar, Moog, or something else



any thoughts?
Any reason why? Do they really need it? I have 2 friends with over 180k and they're still on the original. Anyway if u really want to yes do the entire front end. It's a very involved job and no reason to do it twice. I'd go with Moog. They've been solid for years I've been using them since I was a kid. Which brings me to my next question, where if u only have 135k, and maybe you only need ball joints, do u really want to rip into that thing? If you do want to, do everything. My advice. Set aside a weekend for it and do everything

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post #3 of 21 Old 04-03-2021, 11:52 AM
Bilko
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What is leading you to the conclusion that all these components are worn? If it's clunking sounds on turning and over bumps it may be the bushes where the front subframes mount to the unibody. This is a much easier fix and worth investigating before you commit to rebuilding the entire front end.

If you really need to perform all this maintenance you should also consider replacing your front shocks whilst you have everything apart. What do you do with your WK2? It's unusual for these parts to experience excessive wear unless you are a regular, hard-core, off-roader.
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post #4 of 21 Old 04-03-2021, 01:43 PM
ColdCase
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In the recent past, a complete lower control arm (with ball joints and bushings) is less money overall than individual parts.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #5 of 21 Old 04-03-2021, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
RedTrex
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No clunks. Aligned before I bought it, tracks ok on some roads, but tramlines bad on others, twitchy at times, replaced tires no change so figured stuff was getting worn. Perhaps last alignment was done poorly, a new one would be a lot cheaper than all the parts if they are okay for another 50K miles or more. I do have air suspension.

2003 Libby 2x4 (Gone)
2004 Libby 4x4 (Gone)
2013 Wrangler JKU (Gone)
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post #6 of 21 Old 04-03-2021, 02:32 PM
Bilko
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I am a foreigner and I am not familiar with the US term "Alignment" as far as I can see there is no way to adjust the camber or tracking on a WK2 except the toe in/out on the steering rods. Am I missing something?

Worn wheel bearings can cause wander but there would usually be other signs of this sort of wear. The same for ball joints, usually there would be some distinctive clunking on change of direction if these components had excessive play in them. Have you checked your sway bar bushings? This can cause issues without making noticeable clunks, look for shiny sway bars on either side of the bushings that would imply the sway bar is sliding through the bushings.

What tires are you running, if you have 20's with performance tires, tram lining is just part of the deal.
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post #7 of 21 Old 04-06-2021, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
RedTrex
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Running Revo3's, not exactly a performance tire.

Upon further research, UCA bushings seem to get beat up on WKs (2's) and Rams. Easy enough, pair of those, pair of sway bar end links, fresh alignment and hopefully all is well.

2003 Libby 2x4 (Gone)
2004 Libby 4x4 (Gone)
2013 Wrangler JKU (Gone)
2014 WK2 Ecodiesel (485 tq)
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post #8 of 21 Old 04-06-2021, 11:58 AM
Bilko
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Same tires as I am running. They are quiet and offer great traction in snow and dirt but they do have a tendency to tramline especially in slushy conditions and on the roads that have grooves cut into them to clear rain. Do you have any buddies with a WK2? you may want to try swapping wheels and tires before you start replacing suspension parts.
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post #9 of 21 Old 04-06-2021, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
RedTrex
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I hear you Bilko, but it was doing the same with the old tires and they still had 35% left when I swapped, so I strongly believe it's not the tires.

2003 Libby 2x4 (Gone)
2004 Libby 4x4 (Gone)
2013 Wrangler JKU (Gone)
2014 WK2 Ecodiesel (485 tq)
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post #10 of 21 Old 04-07-2021, 12:15 PM
Bilko
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Another forum member fastened a GoPro under his vehicle to film what was moving whilst driving. This could be something you could try before committing to expensive maintenance. This is the guy that found the issue was the subframe mounting bolts/bushes.
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post #11 of 21 Old 05-03-2021, 07:10 PM
LTopher
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I'm currently in the middle of a front end rebuild myself right now. I've been getting a vibration that shakes the whole car at speeds over 60mph that comes and goes. Just had it in to the stealership and they couldn't find anything wrong. With 164k miles + on the clock, I figured the suspension could use some attention. Upon tearing everything down, I found the following parts were worn-out:

  • upper and lower balljoints
  • rear bushing on lower control arms
  • upper control arm bushings weren't that bad, but had a few cracks
  • driver side shock sunk down on its own after disconnecting the coil spring
  • both shocks were covered in old grease and bits of the deteriorating bump stops
  • driver side hub was rough when turning by hand
  • both outer tie ends were totally shot

My advice is set some money aside before starting the rebuild in case you need more parts. Oh, and just buy new abs sensors before you start as they will easily break apart when trying to remove them.I previously replaced the sway bar bushings and links less than 5k miles ago, so check those as well. Get yourself a wire brush attachment for your drill/grinder and some rust-prevention paint if you want to go overboard .

This is a BIG car with BIG and HEAVY suspension parts. Make sure you have the proper equipment and stay safe!

Programmers don't die, they just lose their memory!

His: 2001 WJ I6
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post #12 of 21 Old 05-03-2021, 07:18 PM
LTopher
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Forgot to add, a BFH will be your best friend while pulling things apart!

Programmers don't die, they just lose their memory!

His: 2001 WJ I6
Hers: 2011 WK2 V6
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post #13 of 21 Old 05-03-2021, 07:28 PM
Bilko
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BFH? Is that a reference to a large hammer or am I missing something?
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post #14 of 21 Old 05-04-2021, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilko View Post
BFH? Is that a reference to a large hammer or am I missing something?
Yep "Big Friggin Hammer". Or "Kinetic Adjuster", "Ford Tool", "Universal Adjuster"...

2012 Overland 4X4 Mineral Gray/New Saddle, HEMI , 24p (ACC,BSM, FCW)
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post #15 of 21 Old 05-04-2021, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
RedTrex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTopher View Post
I'm currently in the middle of a front end rebuild myself right now. I've been getting a vibration that shakes the whole car at speeds over 60mph that comes and goes. Just had it in to the stealership and they couldn't find anything wrong. With 164k miles + on the clock, I figured the suspension could use some attention. Upon tearing everything down, I found the following parts were worn-out:

  • upper and lower balljoints
  • rear bushing on lower control arms
  • upper control arm bushings weren't that bad, but had a few cracks
  • driver side shock sunk down on its own after disconnecting the coil spring
  • both shocks were covered in old grease and bits of the deteriorating bump stops
  • driver side hub was rough when turning by hand
  • both outer tie ends were totally shot

My advice is set some money aside before starting the rebuild in case you need more parts. Oh, and just buy new abs sensors before you start as they will easily break apart when trying to remove them.I previously replaced the sway bar bushings and links less than 5k miles ago, so check those as well. Get yourself a wire brush attachment for your drill/grinder and some rust-prevention paint if you want to go overboard .

This is a BIG car with BIG and HEAVY suspension parts. Make sure you have the proper equipment and stay safe!
Which submodel and engine do you have?

2003 Libby 2x4 (Gone)
2004 Libby 4x4 (Gone)
2013 Wrangler JKU (Gone)
2014 WK2 Ecodiesel (485 tq)
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