final word on coolant: Hoat or universal ? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 36 Old 01-11-2018, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
billybob123
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final word on coolant: Hoat or universal ?

I'm at the 5 year mark to replace antifreeze ( orange /manually calls for replace after 5) and all the dealers want 160.00-175.00 for flush/fill

I found a shop ( Midas) for 70.00 and it is a flush .


I read on here a few years ago about how important it was to stick with hoat.

The shop says the universal antifreeze they use meets all Chrysler/jeep/dodge requirements and they have been using it for years.

I forgot to ask if they use more than one antifreeze as , I would guess , just one couldn't cover all manufacturers requirements ?

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post #2 of 36 Old 01-11-2018, 07:16 PM
LongboardLiam
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A quick search on the ol' Googles led to some less murky waters , but the gist they seem to get at is use what the manufacturer tells you to use. These coolants are formulated to inhibit corrosion and, maybe more importantly, NOT do certain things based on the engine into which it is introduced. Politely demand they use the right stuff, or provide it yourself and you should be in the clear. I instantly get a not great feeling, despite the best of intentions, when the reason they give is "we've done it for years." Never the right reason.

For the articles, please see underhoodservice website, articles named "Correcting Coolant Confusion" and "Universal Coolants: The Ultimate Answer?" I'd link, but my post count is too low.
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post #3 of 36 Old 01-11-2018, 07:20 PM
Raptor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob123 View Post
I'm at the 5 year mark to replace antifreeze ( orange /manually calls for replace after 5) and all the dealers want 160.00-175.00 for flush/fill

I found a shop ( Midas) for 70.00 and it is a flush .


I read on here a few years ago about how important it was to stick with hoat.

The shop says the universal antifreeze they use meets all Chrysler/jeep/dodge requirements and they have been using it for years.

I forgot to ask if they use more than one antifreeze as , I would guess , just one couldn't cover all manufacturers requirements ?
No such thing as a "Universal Antifreeze"! Complete BS!

Run from that shop as fast as you can!

What's the year and model of your Jeep? Jeep has gone from old fashioned IAT type dyed green antifreeze, then to HOAT type dyed orange and lately to OAT type dyed purple over the years.

If your currently have a HOAT type antifreeze in your Jeep Zerex makes a compatible HOAT or GO-5 type antifreeze that's dyed a light yellow color that's available at many nationwide auto parts retailers. The light yellow is a little hard to see in your coolant overflow bottle though.

Or just go to your local dealer and get the Mopar 5 year HOAT type antifreeze that's dyed bright orange and originally came as the factory fill in your 2011?? Jeep.
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post #4 of 36 Old 01-12-2018, 08:55 AM
mx71
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It;s really important to use what the manufacturer recommends. You don't necessarily have to use the Mopar brand, but you do have to use either OAT or HOAT, or whatever is recommended for your year. If the wrong type is used, it can degrade many components in your system causing you to have to replace things that cost more than the price difference now. Also, it's hard to get 100% of old coolant out of your system, and when mixed, it turns into a sludge and can clog your thermostat. I had to flush my coolant way to early because the dealer mixed types of coolant and I had that sludge.
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post #5 of 36 Old 01-12-2018, 03:16 PM
tomit
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I've never flushed, but always drained the block - a real PITA on the side-saddle V6s. Used low pressure air to remove coolant from the engine and separately from the heater core. Always bought coolant from the dealer - more expensive, but guaranteed to be correct. Never had cooling system problems. Felt that caustic cleaners would damage the pump seal so didn't use them.

'15 Black V-6 Limited
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post #6 of 36 Old 01-12-2018, 07:09 PM
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Midas will piss in your radiator, if you're lucky, and top it off with whatever cheap crap they have to make the coolant reservoir look good. They don't even flush the toilet after they take a crap, much less flush your radiator. There have been many stings on these shops, and they put cameras under the hood and under the rig, and they find out that not only don't they flush it, they top it off with the wrong stuff.

Buy a gallon of the stuff they tell you to use. Get it from Mopar if you can't find that exact thing. There are no shortage of fluids that say "mixes with any color", or "compatible with every brand". It's a load of crap. I can mix urine and motor oil, but that doesn't make it a good thing to put in my expensive engine. If you can prove they ruined your motor, they guarantee you'll get your $13 back.

My radiator had recently been replaced when I bought it, but the antifreeze looked like mud. I removed the overflow bottle (not hard), and punched a hole in that little grate so I could pressure wash it. It came out great. Then, with a cool engine, I drained the radiator and ran a garden hose into the top until everything started looking clean. Then I started the engine, heat on high, while fresh water ran in and the petcock was open draining some. I made sure the hose was going faster than the drain. After about 10 minutes, it started looking less rusty, so I shut the valve and closed the radiator cap, letting the engine warm up.

Then after it cooled again, I did the same drain, run water while draining and running.

Then I drove around with pure tap water for a 30 minute drive, and repeated the process. I kept doing this until my water stayed clear.

Then, I drained the radiator, and did another round of running and flushing. Once everything looked clean, I drained all I could and filled back with distilled water from bi-mart (89 cents a gallon). I ran it for a bit, and drained again, figuring I've gotten most of the minerals out from the tap water. Then I refilled again with 1 gallon of HOAT, putting some in the overflow bottle, and the rest in the radiator, and topped up with distilled water. I drove the front end up on RV leveling blocks, and ran the engine, topping with distilled water as needed, until the thermostat opened (you'll see the flow start) and kept topping up until it quit taking it. Then I closed the cap, topped off the overflow to the fill mark, and went for a drive.

It's been clean as new for the last 8 months since doing that. I wouldn't pay those scammers to run some bs flush. You know they take every shortcut they can, and may not even do anything but top you off with the wrong fluid. Either use the dealer (not sure they do much better, but I assume so), or do it yourself. It's really pretty easy.

I strongly suggest you don't buy any of that gimmick fluid that claims to clean things out or stop leaks, or any other magic. It's as likely to clog your heater as to improve your cooling, and if you have a leak, just fix the damn leak.

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post #7 of 36 Old 05-06-2019, 09:47 AM
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Question

I went with Prestone Universal coolant instead of the Mopar stuff a few months ago.

Kinda yellowish neon color. I'll report if I have any problems with this change.

Anyone know the part numbers for the heater core coolant hoses?? I can't find them anywhere.

Looks like a PITA to change the heater core too.
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post #8 of 36 Old 05-06-2019, 11:30 AM
macmechanic
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BigTizzie, the heater core is located in the HVAC housing which is located behind the dashboard so that has to be removed and in order to get the dashboard out, you have to remove the center console and the steering column. There is a youtube video on the subject linked in another thread here about the removal of the HVAC housing.
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post #9 of 36 Old 05-06-2019, 10:14 PM
9496ZJs
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OP has a 2013 model year? Not sure if the answer about which kind for him.

HOWEVER, I just read the manual for my MY 2016 Grand Cherokee (5.7L) and it says OAT only. It says only in case of emergency can you mix in some HOAT, but you then have to flush it all out and replace with OAT as soon as possible.

So, I will drill it into my brain: OAT OAT OAT OAT OAT OAT OAT. Cheerios are made with OAT (not HOAT). And I love my Cheery WK2 so I’m only going to feed it OAT coolant. (There. That should do it.)
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post #10 of 36 Old 05-07-2019, 08:37 AM
jeepjeepster
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I've never flushed coolant in any liquid cooled internal combustion engine that Ive had in my position. Regular coolant changes have always sufficed.
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post #11 of 36 Old 05-07-2019, 08:54 AM
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9496ZJs, it's HOAT FOR 2011-2013 and OAT for 2014 and newer.
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post #12 of 36 Old 05-08-2019, 07:22 AM
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Thanks.
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post #13 of 36 Old 05-12-2019, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTizzie View Post
I went with Prestone Universal coolant instead of the Mopar stuff a few months ago.

Kinda yellowish neon color. I'll report if I have any problems with this change.

Anyone know the part numbers for the heater core coolant hoses?? I can't find them anywhere.

Looks like a PITA to change the heater core too.
Do not!!! Do Not!!! Do not!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do this!!!!

Prestone only makes OAT type coolant.... There is no such thing as a "Universal Coolant"!!!
Your 2011 Jeep came with Orange HOAT and that's what you should use to refill!

2011~2012 WK2 Grand Cherokees came OEM from the factory with Mopar HOAT coolant dyed Orange/Pink.

2013 and up were changed to Mopar OAT coolant dyed purple.

(Keep in mind some early production 2013's came with the Orange HOAT before the line was switched over to the newer Purple OAT coolant)

DO NOT MIX THESE COOLANTS they are not compatible with each other!!
Two totally different corrosion inhibitor chemicals in them.

You will now get sludge in your cooling system. Big mistake
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post #14 of 36 Old 05-12-2019, 07:26 PM
macmechanic
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Raptor, I had thought that the 2013 JGC was a HOAT system but I came across this Chrysler TSB dated 9/21/2012 that states that it is an OAT system........

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_0700412a.pdf

"DISCUSSION:

Chrysler Corporation LLC. has released a new engine coolant for the 2013 model year vehicles and beyond, for all engine applications except the ones listed in the note above. This new coolant is an Organic Additive Technology (OAT) (Fig. 1). OAT coolants have a service interval of 10 years or 150,000 miles. For heavy duty truck and extreme duty cycle applications refer to the Service Information or Owner's Manual for proper maintenance schedules.

CAUTION: Vehicle Damage may occur if dissimilar coolants are mixed!
Coolants of different technologies are not compatible nor interchangeable (OAT, HOAT or IAT).

Mixing these coolants could result in:
• accelerated corrosion within the engine and cooling systems.
• the coolant having an ammonia smell.
• debris (particles) floating in the coolant.

Further inspection by the technician may find corrosion in the system. This could show up as aluminum pipes turning black in the coolant system, engine overheat, or leaks in the coolant system.

NOTE: If OAT (MOPAR P/N 68163848AA Purple) has been Mixed with HOAT (MOPAR P/N 68048953AB Pink Or Factory Fill HOAT Orange (Fig. 2) or (Fig. 3)) or any other coolants have been mixed, it will be necessary to flush the cooling system."

I had thought about whether a coolant system that was originally a HOAT system could be switched over to the OAT coolant in order to take advantage of it's extended mileage/life span, if the entire coolant system were to be flushed out, but I am glad that I stuck with the HOAT coolant for this 2011 JGC because unless you can manage to locate and remove the engine block coolant drain plugs, which I wasn't able to do, you will never be able to completely flush out the old coolant.
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post #15 of 36 Old 02-05-2021, 09:07 AM
ibagoalie
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Oy! Had a 2018 Jeep Cherokee with the yellow/green coolant, so bought a gallon of that. Then upgraded to a 2020 GC and didn't even think about it til I went to check my washer fluid. Panicked when I saw the dark purple (looked like tomato juice in the dim garage). Took it to the Dealer thinking some strange chemical reaction had happened. Now I have a gallon of purple and the yellow/green will be given away. Part of me thinks this is all a grand scheme to force you to go to the dealer for oil changes, since who knows if the "jiffy Lubes" of the world have all the different types.
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