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post #1 of 14 Old 08-28-2019, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
Mackinback
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Control Arm Fun

This is in regards to my 2013 Grand Cherokee Overland Summit..
So after doing a tire rotation I was left with an annoying squeak coming from my front left.. Had a shop take a look while patching a tire and they stated upper and lower bushings were shot.. Guess the arms being hyper extended was all it needed to fail with 111k on the clock.
At any rate, I figure I'd do both upper and lower on both sides myself.

Now I am wondering is there much of a difference between the air ride equip to non? other than obviously more 'normal' suspension travel?
I'm surfing parts over on Advanced Auto and my initial thought is 'wow!' .. Now in response to my 'is there a difference', it would appear the parts are the same for the overland and limited.. So no difference it seems.
I see there are some write-ups on replacements, but think those were non-air ride. Is there anything to be aware of because of air ride?
I might reconsider my thought of going with Moog. If I go with these higher cost R series I'm pushing close to $1k just for arms. I'd hate for there to be surprises when I'm knee deep in disassembly too.. lol

Not to mention I've hit a pocket of problems these last couple months ranging from Airbag light to a strange random fart-like sound from the front end. I'll post about those later.

MacK

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post #2 of 14 Old 08-28-2019, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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I also wanted to point out, on the Moog pictures of Arms, their lowers have a single replaceable bushing assembly (with metal bracket) PN K201335 Wonder if the OEM have this
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-28-2019, 11:55 PM
ColdCase
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Everything suspension besides springs and shocks are identical in all models. Steering racks can be different.

Usually its the sway bar links or bushing(s) thats noisy, not the control arms. Sometime some of the cradle bolts rust/loosen up.

Strange sounds and vibrations can be motor mounts.

I don't thing the control arm bushings are replaceable, you probably need to buy the arms assembled.

Look at rockauto for reference if you haven't already.

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-31-2019, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
Mackinback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
Everything suspension besides springs and shocks are identical in all models. Steering racks can be different.

Usually its the sway bar links or bushing(s) thats noisy, not the control arms. Sometime some of the cradle bolts rust/loosen up.

Strange sounds and vibrations can be motor mounts.

I don't thing the control arm bushings are replaceable, you probably need to buy the arms assembled.

Look at rockauto for reference if you haven't already.
Hey ColdCase - I swear 99% of the replies I've ever gotten on here were from you.. Do you run the WK2 section or what?!

So, I am trusting the shop that checked over my Jeep with their assessment. Risky, I know. But my driveway is far too steep to check myself (I'd be doing the work at my parents).
So regarding the parts... what throws me off is if you pull up the control arm parts, you'll get just bushings. I think my previous 300cSRT was the same. And I am not interested in replacing bushing. haha as I do not have a press.. But it would be much cheaper.
Anyways, I hadn't price checked Rockauto, But dang! Almost 1/2 the cost vs Advanced..
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-01-2019, 09:39 PM
ColdCase
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Sorry just wanted to mention that many here suspected control arm bushings only to find something else after the fact. I was just trying to help with things they often miss. There is some mis-information and not quite right info out there, along with some good stuff. Most 4x4 shops don't know independent suspension let alone the WK2 platform, but there are some very good ones about.

MOPAR doesn't offer replacement control arm bushings, but will sell the control arms and retainer bolts. They don't sell the sway bar bushings either (they are molded on the bar) but a couple folks here figured out how to remove and replace them with alternate parts. I don't recall anyone doing the same with the control arms. I think most just replaced the arms as there is not much cost difference unless you use DIYer sweat labor rather than shop labor.

A MOPAR upper control arm runs about $80 at discount, so why bother replacing bushings when new aftermarket bushings are at least $28 plus labor. The $300 lower control arms may give pause, however. Then those three aftermarket bushing are about $100, while aftermarket lower control arms are $130.

Upgrading the bushings are another question....

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #6 of 14 Old 10-01-2019, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
Mackinback
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I really need to remain focused here! haha
Thanks for the input ColdCase, and I meant no disrespect. You raise some good points on a regular shop not seeing all that is bad causing me to think about maybe bringing it into a dealer, pay the diag fee and let them tell me what's wrong. Last thing I want in my driveway is to find I need to run out and pickup sway bars or whatnot ASAP.
I also have what sounds like a wheel bearing (but not) in the rear too that I need diagnosing.
I also think I will go with Mopar brand now seeing as there is a big enough price difference (and let's face it, I doubt I'll be driving this thing another 100k).


Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
Sorry just wanted to mention that many here suspected control arm bushings only to find something else after the fact. I was just trying to help with things they often miss. There is some mis-information and not quite right info out there, along with some good stuff. Most 4x4 shops don't know independent suspension let alone the WK2 platform, but there are some very good ones about.

MOPAR doesn't offer replacement control arm bushings, but will sell the control arms and retainer bolts. They don't sell the sway bar bushings either (they are molded on the bar) but a couple folks here figured out how to remove and replace them with alternate parts. I don't recall anyone doing the same with the control arms. I think most just replaced the arms as there is not much cost difference unless you use DIYer sweat labor rather than shop labor.

A MOPAR upper control arm runs about $80 at discount, so why bother replacing bushings when new aftermarket bushings are at least $28 plus labor. The $300 lower control arms may give pause, however. Then those three aftermarket bushing are about $100, while aftermarket lower control arms are $130.

Upgrading the bushings are another question....
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post #7 of 14 Old 10-01-2019, 07:23 PM
ColdCase
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They could be right, there have been more recent reports (and threads) of control arm bushings failing and being noisy. The noise disappearing when the arms are replaced. Dunno what to tell you.

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #8 of 14 Old 10-02-2019, 01:49 AM
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Any chance you can drive over to your parents and take a look at the bushings to check them out yourself? I think it would be worth it in case it turns out to be something else. As mentioned, take a look at the swaybar endlinks and bar mount bushings. You can try giving things a squirt of WD40 to see if squeaking goes away temporarily. That will help isolate the source.

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post #9 of 14 Old 10-18-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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So doing the deed tomorrow. Found Moog arms were cheaper via amazon. I also see the sway bar bushings are on the fritz. So Iíll do those as well.
Iíll check the sway bar links. Worst case hit the local parts store. I have a neighbor mechanic helping if needed.
Thanks for the input


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post #10 of 14 Old 10-24-2019, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Holy cannoli what a job.
My original intention was to replace upper and lower control arms + swaybar links + swaybar bushings..
I won't bore with the hellish day it was, but out of everything I wanted to change out, I only got 1 lower control and the swaybar link replaced over last Saturday and Sunday!
Talk about a stretch of bad luck.. Many parts store stops for tools AND a balljoint...
That lower ball joint can BUZZ OFF!

So let's get on with it.. as I'll be back at is this weekend.. My squeak sort of went away when driving home Sunday.. But now seems to be back as loud as it was. I was a little TO'd about that..
So I need to get the upper control arm replaced and the swaybar bushings.
The only thing I will not be touching - lower ball joint & steering end links.
I did end up having to buy the ball joint as I destroyed the original nut when removing... lots of heat and it was not worthy of being reused. Once finding out the ball joint is pressed in, I just decided to use the nut. ALMOST did not get it tightened back on! That was a close one. and a waste just for the nut. (this was Sunday early afternoon)

Q's going forward..
1. Couldn't find swaybar bushings anywhere! Dealer says swaybar bushings are not replaceable. Need to order whole swaybar.. Does anybody have a universal that work?
2. Not much on the UCA's.. I found a response by ColdCase on a thread. Does anybody know if removing the airline for the strut needs to be done? (I have Overland)
3. Is the fuse box easy enough to move out of the way for the R UCA?

Worst case I'll have to figure out the swaybar another time. Want to get the arms done so I can get the alignment done.
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post #11 of 14 Old 10-24-2019, 10:57 PM
ColdCase
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The sway bar bushings are molded onto the sway bar, not a separate part. Here is a thread linked in the maintenance sticky that provides an alternative.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309...hings-4335039/

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #12 of 14 Old 11-08-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
Mackinback
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Cool, thanks for the link ColdCase. Those were ordered and I'll give it a crack at it tomorrow.

Hey also by chance do you have any torque specs for the front suspension?
I really hate just blindly going at it.

This project it getting close..
This weekend the plan is -
Upper control arms
Tie-rod ends
sway bar bushings

MacK

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
The sway bar bushings are molded onto the sway bar, not a separate part. Here is a thread linked in the maintenance sticky that provides an alternative.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309...hings-4335039/
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post #13 of 14 Old 11-08-2019, 01:52 PM
ColdCase
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I think there is a suspension torque thread indexed in the maintenance-repair sticky thread

I was born with nuttin' and I still have most of it.
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #14 of 14 Old 11-08-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
Mackinback
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Perfect found it.

From FSM in Ft.Lbs. except for speed sensor bolt

Shock Absorber Upper Nuts 21

Shock upper Mounting Nut 37

Clevis Bracket to Lower Control Arm 173

Upper Control Arm Bolt/Nut to Body 70

Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Vertical Bolt/Nut 162

Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Horizontal Bolt/Nut 66

Lower Control Arm Front Pivot Bolt/Nut 89

Upper Ball Joint Nut 70

Lower Ball Joint Nut 170

Stabilizer Bar Retainer Bolts 90

Stabilizer Bar Link Upper Nut 85

Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Bolt 90

Tie Rod End Ball Stud Nut 70

Half Shaft Nut 229

Intermediate Shaft Pinch Bolt 33

Hub Bearing Knuckle Bolts 78

Brake Caliper Slide Bolts (Guide Pins) 41

Brake Caliper Adapter Bolts 89

Speed Sensor Bolts 95 In. Lbs.
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