Adjustable ride height question - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
Essray
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Adjustable ride height question

Iíve noticed the ride height on the GC Trailhawk is much lower than our overland. Any insight as to why?

Thanks


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post #2 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 08:56 AM
ColdCase
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What model years? I didn't think the normal ride height varied from year to year and model to model. There were some differences in ORA2 across the years, however. There is a shop procedure for measuring ride height and calibrating the air suspension control module. Early models had a spec range difference of near ĺ inch, so one may be factory calibrated high, the other low. That would give you a ĺ inch difference in ride height. I would guess later models had a similar range. You may want to park beside other Overlands and TrailHawks to see if yours is off.

There may also be variations in tire diameter.

You could get under and make some measurements. You measure between the wheel center and ground, then the center of the cradle bolt to ground, subtract the two. Front should be 3.39 to 4.18 inches, rear 2.87 to 3.65 inches (early model spec).
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I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
Essray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
What model years? I didn't think the normal ride height varied from year to year and model to model. There were some differences in ORA2 across the years, however. There is a shop procedure for measuring ride height and calibrating the air suspension control module. Early models had a spec range difference of near ĺ inch, so one may be factory calibrated high, the other low. That would give you a ĺ inch difference in ride height. I would guess later models had a similar range. You may want to park beside other Overlands and TrailHawks to see if yours is off.

There may also be variations in tire diameter.

You could get under and make some measurements. You measure between the wheel center and ground, then the center of the cradle bolt to ground, subtract the two. Front should be 3.39 to 4.18 inches, rear 2.87 to 3.65 inches (early model spec).

Good points.

We are running 265/50/20
The TH runs 265/60/18

I much prefer the lower ride height the TH appears to have. The wheel gap just seems so much less. Do you think its the tire specs causing this?




I will do some measurements when i can. I would love a factory calibration that would achieve this look.


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post #4 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Essray View Post
Good points.

We are running 265/50/20
The TH runs 265/60/18

I much prefer the lower ride height the TH appears to have. The wheel gap just seems so much less. Do you think its the tire specs causing this?




I will do some measurements when i can. I would love a factory calibration that would achieve this look.


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Compared to my TH, that would be "aero" or "park/exit" height. You can calibrate or change the length of the links to make small adjustments. Airlinks is a source for pre-adjusted replacements.

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post #5 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Nice! Thank you. Iíve been down the rabbit hole and back multiple times for my bmw. Just now looking to modding my wifeís overland. She hesitates as it has been a reliable car for us. I bought a peddle commander to try out to liven up her 5.7.


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post #6 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 04:10 PM
ColdCase
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The easiest way to liven up the 5.7 that been proven for years is to manually shift, doesn't cost anything, much more effective than the peddle commander.
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I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
Essray
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Yeah. I do that too. Found one locally for 100$. Iíve known him for a while. He sold his Jeep and offered it up.

I understand my wifeís hesitation. Iíve had some ups and downs messing with my coupe. But I showed her how bmw and Audi use the same HP and she is hooked. Ive tried to give her a stop gap as inexpensive ways to change her overland (never off roared btw), but she will not have it. Apparently spending 40k is more appealing than a few thousand upgrading exhaust, ride height and aesthetics.

Iím a tinkerer. To a documented point.


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post #8 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 06:14 PM
ColdCase
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You will find there isn't much you can do with a WK2 performance. Unlike the old days, they are pretty efficient from the factory with little room for street improvement and the later model computer has things locked down tight. None of traditional HP aids (exhaust, intake, PC) help other than style and sound. Because it sounds different the butt meeter makes you tink you've done something. The PC doesn't do anything more than give you a different go pedal feel and occasional check engine light.

Its been discussed dozens of times. The short story is that you can buy a unlocked off road use only ECU. Then have the Jeep put on a dyno and tuned. Helps but you will want to put a bit bigger cam in and tune for high octane fuel to get decent results. You could also put a supercharger kit on, that gives you a pretty good boost.
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I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Iíve heard the engine light is a result from changing programming while in drive.

Iíd be happy with aesthetic changes. She would be too, but breaking that hard ďplay it safeĒ sheíll takes work.


Ideally Iíd go with a limited X 5.7 due to blacked out trim package, new exhaust, and lowered a bit (not slammed).

As it stands, itís a reliable vehicle now. Hence her hesitation.


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post #10 of 10 Old 09-21-2020, 08:51 PM
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I have a PC. There is another scenario that will cause a CE light. That is, changing settings while cruise control is engaged. I have mine hidden and only change settings with Bluetooth but generally leave it in city +1. It acts much like the sport setting but without lowering to "aero". If you follow the rules on changing settings, no CE lights.

ColdCase is right about mods. Forget it unless you buy an unlocked ECU. A CAI or exhaust is mostly more noise. There is one cam swap from Modern Muscle that will work with no ECU tuning, but nothing else I've come across that will work with a locked ECU. Unlocked and you're free to do heads, a lot more cam, a throttle body, or a blower.
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