2018 WK2 Lightbulb and CAI question. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-14-2018, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
AceThedic
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2018 WK2 Lightbulb and CAI question.

Hey all, new here, new to Jeep as well.

Picked up some new H11's and a set of H9's to replace my low/fog and high's, respectively, but ran into some trouble today. After checking YouTube I saw the bulb access in the wheel wells, however there appears to be a black plastic structure in the way that wasn't there before, again, based on the way it looks on YouTube vs what I saw.

Has anyone changed their halogen light bulbs on an '18 and know what I'm talking about? Any tips?

Likewise, I plan to install a CAI and would appreciate tips for removing the stock air box.

Videos, write-ups, etc. are very much appreciated and welcomed.

Thank you!

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post #2 of 13 Old 01-14-2018, 07:16 PM
ColdCase
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You may find some writeups indexed either in the maintenance/repair sticky or modification sticky threads. I think 2016-17-18 are the same, dunno about earlier models.

You do know that if your replacement bulbs don't match up well with the OEM load characteristics, the TIPM may think there is a bulb fault and flash lights and/or throw error messages.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-14-2018, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
AceThedic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdCase View Post
You may find some writeups indexed either in the maintenance/repair sticky or modification sticky threads. I think 2016-17-18 are the same, dunno about earlier models.

You do know that if your replacement bulbs don't match up well with the OEM load characteristics, the TIPM may think there is a bulb fault and flash lights and/or throw error messages.
I checked there, thank you. The Maintenance sticky hasn't been updated and still shows 9005 as the High beam size when it's H9 according to my owner's manual. There is nothing about those model years or answering the question that I'm asking, which is basically, "What's the easiest way to change the light bulb?"

And thank you, I was aware. These are nothing special, just a change in temp for personal preference.
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-08-2018, 12:47 PM
jrl95608
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I saw a couple vendor specific installation videos for WK2 CAI products. It doesn't appear to be difficult at all. I actually purchased a 50 state compliant system (only one - AFE) for my 2017, but am now having second thoughts wondering if a CAI voids my warranty. Thoughts?

https://afepower.com/afe-power-54-12...-intake-system
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-09-2018, 07:27 PM
omar915
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I changed my low beams from halogen to HID and had to remove my front bumper. Some other folks here claimed thatís extreme but my hand would not reach in to removed the OEM halogen bulb.


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post #6 of 13 Old 05-15-2018, 03:47 PM
tommy_riley
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I had huge pains trying to figure out how to change the lowbeams in the 2018 because of the extra added "cup" surrounding the headlights from behind. It took a while, but I was able to figure it out and now I can change my front headlights in about 15 minutes without needing to remove the front bumper. The foglights are relatively easy as you can just reach your hand in at the bottom of the wheel well and rotate off the bulb by feel. I have since upgraded to LED's after writing this the first time...


I was able to swap out my halogen H11's to H9's in my 2018 Altitude without removing the wheel well housing or the front bumper assembly.

Hopefully this information comes in handy for anyone else with a mid-year 2016 or newer WK2.

The passenger side is much more difficult than the driver’s side and the wheel well access port is useless for this procedure now.

Below are the steps that worked for me. The passenger side was much harder at first to do than the driver’s side...

Passenger Side Headlamp Bulb Removal
1. Move Fusebox: Unclip the fuse box (there are four plastic tabs keeping it in place), lift it up and move it back and to the right - you only need to move it a few inches out of the way.

2. Move PCM: In front of the fuse box is a thin vertical aluminum component. I believe this is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This is also just held in place with a plastic tab on top. Push back the tab, and gently, but firmly, wiggle and lift up on the PCM. There are two metal tabs about mid-way down on the back side (the part of the PCM facing the firewall), and there is just enough room to lift the PCM high enough to have the tabs have clearance to be pulled free. Once you have the tabs unhooked, move the PCM module over to the right as much as possible towards the center of the vehicle. Again, you are just trying to move it slightly out of the way to give your hand and wrist the room it needs to access the back side of the headlight assembly. The PCM unit has little sharp edges and if you don’t move it out of the way, you will surely end up scratching the backside of your wrist and most likely will not have enough room to pull the bulb out.

3. Headlamp Rubber Cap Removal: On the backside of the headlight assembly is a rubber cap that is protecting moisture from getting into the headlight assembly where the headlamp bulb is connected. This just pulls off - you will need to exert some force to pull it off - don't worry to grab it around the rim and get your fingers under the lip to help pull it off. It does not twist off, it just pulls off.

Notes:
- At this point, it might be good to grab your phone and take a picture with flash on to get an idea of what you are looking at. Angle the phone in such a way that you can get a view inside the cylinder housing and see what you are dealing with. This helped me greatly to get a visual of what I was working on.
- Once you get to the next step, you are COMMITTED to following through. Because - when you disconnect the headlamp, you won't be able to reconnect it without getting the headlamp out of the headlight assembly first.

4. Disconnect Headlamp Electrical Connector: Position yourself so you are facing the rear of the Jeep and place your right hand inside the engine compartment where you disconnected the PCM and reach inside the cylinder (your palm should be facing up) and feel for the connector. It should be pretty easy to lift up on the plastic tab and flick the connector off. There is a little play on the connector wire so pull it out gently and move it out of the way for the next step.

5. Rotate and remove headlamp bulb: This is the tricky part. The headlamp bulbs electrical connector (when looking at it from behind) is at about a ten o'clock position, that is, the connector isn't facing straight up. My hands are too big to be able reach inside and grab the bulb with enough leverage to rotate the bulb the 30 degrees that is needed to remove it. The three metal tabs also, when installed correctly, snug the bulb into place, so you really need a little bit of extra leverage to unlock it from its installed position. The bulb, when looking at it from behind, needs to be rotated about 30 degrees or so to unlock it. The trick here is to use something to help start the rotation. What I ended up using was a small flathead screwdriver. I placed the screwdriver tip right on the inside corner of the bulbs connector and once I had it positioned correctly, I was able to push down (attempting to move the bulb counter clockwise) on the screwdriver, and in turn on the bulb, to unlock it. Now, this didn't happen on the first attempt, and I ended up buying a few unnecessary angled mini grabbers and right-angle pliers to try and help get at the bulb to turn it. What worked best for me was a small flathead screwdriver. I suppose a small needle nose pair of pliers that had an angled tip might also be used. But for me, it was the flathead screwdriver that I ended up using. What helped, and there was just enough room for this, was using my right hand and placing my fingers just over the bulb connector then using my left hand moving the screwdriver into position and guiding it into position with my right hand, then gently, but with some slight force try and push down on the bulb so it rotates. Once it rotated just a bit! AHAH! I was then able to reach my hand in and twist the bulb the rest of the way to take it off.

This was definitely not an easy task the first few times I did this! But, after I removed the bulb, I immediately reconnected the electrical connector and put the bulb back in to make sure I could. Once I achieved this, I knew the next time I went to take it off to put the H9's on, it would be easier. And it was as I ended up doing this a few times due to some clumsiness on my part.

Driver Side Headlamp Bulb Removal
1. Air Filter Removal Housing Removal: The air filter housing needs to be removed to access the passenger side headlight assembly.
a. Use a flathead screwdriver and loosen the clamp holding the air filter hose in place. Wiggle and pull the hose off the air filter housing unit.
b. There is a smaller hose attached just behind the main hose, this can just be wiggled and pulled off. The first time it came off it was stiff and a bit difficult to pull off, but it does indeed just pull off.
c. Unclasp the two locking clasps (closest to the front driver’s side fender) to allow the air filter housing lid to come off.
d. The other side of the air filter housing lid is just snugged in under plastic holders - it looks like a hinge, but it is not. Pull the air filter housing lid off.
e. Remove the air filter.
f. For the bottom half of the air filter housing unit, remove the small plastic tab holding the front of the air filter intake (closest to the front of the car) to the rubber seal that runs along the length of the front of the engine compartment. I used small needle noise pliers to help pull the tab off so I didn't risk ripping the rubber seal as I was pulling up on it.
g. The bottom of the air filter housing unit is held in place with three rubber grommets. two on the inside bottom, and one on the outside side, closest to the fender. Using a bit of force, wiggle and pull up on the air filter housing to remove it. The grommets should come off with the housing unit, but if they do not, pull them off of the posts they are connected to, and reinsert them into the housing unit holes once it is removed. you will need to wiggle and angle the housing unit out around the air filter engine intake hose, and a few other cables.

2. With the Air filter housing unit out of the way, it should be pretty easy to access the rubber cover over the back of the headlight assembly. Remove this to allow for access to the headlamp bulb
3. Remove the bulb: This bulb should be much easier to get to, I was simply able to place my hand inside the cylinder housing and twist the bulb counter clockwise (when facing it from behind) and pull it out. Super easy!

Final Thoughts
I highly recommend buying the iJDMTOY (2) H11 H8 H9 Extension Wiring Harness Sockets Wires For Headlights for this project. This extension cable is less than ten dollars and there is enough room for this extension cable to fit inside the cylinder housing unit along with the regular cable connector for the headlamp bulb.

The extension cable is recommended for three reasons:

One: It gives you some extra room when installing the bulbs - you can plug the extension cable into the headlamp bulb and then connect the electrical connector to the extension cable after the headlamp is installed.

Two: If you are doing the H11 to H9 mod, you can modify the extension cable (cut the plastic tab) to save yourself the trouble of having to cut the tab on each H9 bulb you buy.

Three: And this is the most important reason for me - on the passenger side, once you have the extension cable connected, you can then easily have the leverage to remove the headlamp bulb without needing to wedge in a screw driver or pair of pliers. You just need to gently pull down on the extension cable where it is connected to the headlamp bulb, and the bulb should give way from being in a locked position. This will make future bulb replacements much, much easier.

Obviously, this project and learnings took some time. I ended up driving for two days without one headlight when I first unhooked the passenger side bulb and could not figure out how to get it out. There was a lot of trial and error to get this done.

When I installed the new H9 bulbs, and did a test drive - I realized I was a little careless and the driver’s side bulb had not been installed properly and one of the metal tabs was not "hooked" in place, so the bulb wasn't positioned correctly for the projector.

So, I had to remove the air housing unit a 2nd time. But doing it a second time, took a matter of about five minutes.

The second time I removed the passenger side bulb it took me about 10 minutes. I did this a day later, so the ten minutes included moving the fuse box and PCM. I ended up removing it a third time as I had forgotten to put a small plastic seal back on my H9 bulb after modifying it, and the last time I was able to remove the passenger side bulb in all of five minutes.

Now that I have the process down somewhat, I'm guessing this will be a 20-minute project, end to end, if/when I have to do it all again. I feel I learned some things about my Jeep, and hopefully this post helps others who have been struggling with this as well.

Lastly, I'm happy with the end result of the H9’s and this project. The H9's seem probably 15-20% brighter than the stock H11's, and there is definitely a light "beam" that I can see projecting at the road. These halogens will do, at least until a bulb burns out, at which point I may look into a LED solution - granted, as long as there is room within the cylinder housing unit to host the LED bulb.
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-15-2018, 03:56 PM
tommy_riley
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Third photo didn't show up, here it is - it is just the huse box and PCM moved out of the way for the passenger side headlight bulb access
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3.jpg   1.jpg  
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-19-2018, 06:02 PM
gekicker08
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Just put the Xenon HID kits in both the low beams and fogs. What a PAIN! Does look better though. The original bulbs weren't bad, but I had a great experience with my HID's on the tacoma I got rid of so I figured... What the heck?! Why not? It took about two hours to get everything all buttoned up and the light output is fantastic, but I would not do that again. I wish the LED options were better
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-21-2018, 04:09 PM
Cigar Mike
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Cool CAI

I had the dealer install the Mopar CAI, to avoid warranty issues. What I found was that is really wasn't a CAI. What I found was that the filter in the intake sat in a 3 sided box, 2 sides and 1 bottom. It did have a rubber gasket on the top to seal it to the inside of the hood. I did a few mods to give it the ability to suck cooler air. I removed the seal on the inside leading edge of the hood. I saw that the seal would sit on top of the headlight cover left side, preventing any cooler air from entering the filter area. I also took part of the OEM air box and cut it so that any air entering this area would be directed in a downward direction. The part I cut disconnects from the stock filter housing. What the "scoop" does is to direct airflow down towards the bottom of the box, but in my mind would probable prevent any water from being ingested into the air intake. Sounds better, but other than that not sure if it does much of anything. The air intake on the trackhawk is fairly similar in looks to the stock unit in a hemi GC. And I can only guess how much air the SC 6.2L sucks. The mopar CAI is about $600.00 clams if the dealer installs it. The unit I got fits from 2011-2018. It has 2 brackets that don't do a thing. Universal fitment? I guess...
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-29-2020, 03:49 PM
mck024
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Awesome tutorial. Thank you! Changed the passenger side lamp in 20 minutes!
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-15-2020, 09:36 AM
Xanroc
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Tommy_riley what a great write up! Thank you. I got the the drivers side replaced OK, but I didn't get the passenger side seated properly and will have to go back in. My 2010 wk was a piece of cake compared to my 2017 wk2. Fiat influence? Appreciate the write up.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-01-2020, 10:49 AM
stevevogel
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re: tommy_riley post

I wish I had found this post earlier as I went thru the same steps without a lot of guidance. One issue I had was in using a screwdriver to try and turn the passenger side bulb ... the screwdriver slipped out of my hand and is now somewhere inside the headlight housing. I am hoping to fish it out with a magnet on a string, otherwise I am going to have to tear things all apart.

To successfully remove the bulb, I made a tool that might of use to others. It is a pc of 3" long pvc pipe with a 1" notch cut out of the end (see pic attached). I then drilled a hole thru the back end of the pipe, at an angle, so that I could insert a small screwdriver to provide leverage in turning the bulb. I was able to work it over the back end of the bulb and turn the bulb that I was unable to turn with my hand/fingers.

Hope this helps someone else.
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-01-2020, 03:03 PM
Bilko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceThedic View Post
Hey all, new here, new to Jeep as well.

Picked up some new H11's and a set of H9's to replace my low/fog and high's, respectively, but ran into some trouble today. After checking YouTube I saw the bulb access in the wheel wells, however there appears to be a black plastic structure in the way that wasn't there before, again, based on the way it looks on YouTube vs what I saw.

Has anyone changed their halogen light bulbs on an '18 and know what I'm talking about? Any tips?

Likewise, I plan to install a CAI and would appreciate tips for removing the stock air box.

Videos, write-ups, etc. are very much appreciated and welcomed.

Thank you!
You may want to search this forum on CAI kits before you spend your money. The standard airbox is a CAI, it draws the air from the outside under the front lip of the hood. Many CAIs draw air from inside the engine bay so they are actually Hot Air Intakes.

They usually increase the induction noise but make zero difference to power or responsiveness because the ECU will adjust. If you just want more induction noise get a hole cutter and cut some holes in the top of the airbox and save yourself $500.

If your car is a V6 your best option is to trade it for a V8 rather than spending lots of money on go faster parts that don't make any significant difference.
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