2011 GC: hub / wheel bearing replacement - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 24 Old 07-24-2021, 12:20 PM
Bilko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aprachar View Post
Just ordered new hubs, as they are starting to fail in my 2011 Laredo. Can anyone tell me the size of the axle nut?
The front axle nuts are Mopar 6509598AA this part number replaces two previous part numbers so hopefully, they have managed to make a nut that doesn't corrode.

https://www.moparwholesaleparts.com/...LXY2LWZsZXg%3D

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post #17 of 24 Old 07-24-2021, 01:28 PM
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Looks like a nice coat of galvanization on that nut.



Stainless steel would be even better!
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post #18 of 24 Old 07-28-2021, 09:55 AM
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Well the local mechanic says my front wheel bearings are shot. 217k miles so...

Bringing it in tomorrow. Cost is around $825 if nothing else pops up.

Those axle nuts and shafts, I'm concerned about though. No threads on the passenger side.
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post #19 of 24 Old 07-28-2021, 11:40 AM
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If your nuts are really bad you may be looking at new driveshafts

A good mechanic should be able to advise on this before they take everything apart to reduce downtime. If you are planning to keep this vehicle for a while, new driveshafts may be a good idea. The hubs including bearings cost around $100 each so ~$625 of your bill is labor, the incremental labor costs of swapping the driveshafts should be minimal.
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post #20 of 24 Old 07-28-2021, 07:13 PM
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Aftermarket CV axles are like $60, dunno how much your mechanic marks them up. There should be little difference in labor as everything comes apart to replace the bearing. Some mechanics will charge full price regardless, even if its only an extra 5 minutes. So best case is cost of parts, maybe $200.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #21 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 09:12 AM
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Local wants $190 for CV axles and $90 for ABS sensors.

He just called and the price is going up to around $1200 now. Can't get the wheel bearings out.

I saw this coming. Ug. He said he could save the CV axle with the rusted stud.
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post #22 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 02:16 PM
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You need to find a new mechanic, the front hubs including the wheel bearings only cost ~$120 and the bearings alone are around $75 plus lots of labor to try and press them out and in, and often they just won't press out even with hydraulic bearing press. the hub breaks before the bearing breaks free.

I don't understand why the price has gone up, it appears that you are paying for the mechanics failed attempts to increase his or her's profit

With your vehicle's mileage I would still spend the bucks on driveshafts
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post #23 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 02:52 PM
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As long as you change the entire hub rather than attempting to replace the bearing this is an easy job to do with basic tools. It does take a few hours but nothing difficult. The Crux of this repair is getting the axle nuts off.

The nuts are not very deep so you need a plan that is going to get them off at the first attempt else you will round them off. Plan A is.

Do not jack up your vehicle just remove the center caps from the wheels to expose the axle nut. If you jack up the car and remove the wheel then use a breaker bar or impact wrench you can destroy the CV joints and even the diff.

Get yourself a good 1/2 or 3/4 drive impact wrench with a 6 point, 32mm impact socket. Most 32mm impact sockets will be 6 points but there are some that are 12 points versions, avoid these for this application, they will round off the nut before it breaks free.

Do not use penetrating oil, it will not work and will increases the risk of rounding the nut.

Start the engine and get a buddy to stand on the brake peddle.

Hook up your impact driver and go for it!

This will work at least 9 times out of 10.

Turn the engine off, jack up the vehicle and get to work.

In theory, you can do this job with a long breaker bar but you literally have to jump on the bar to generate enough torque and the socket will slide off leaving you with a rounded nut and shin injuries

If Plan A doesn't work you will have to resort to a cold chisel or angle grinder, this will almost certainly mean drive shaft replacement.

If you can solve this problem the rest is easy, just disassemble, replace parts, and put everything back together, go hand tight then use a torque wrench to fully tighten everything before you put the wheels back on.

Correction-Put the wheels back on and lower the vehicle to the ground and repeat the stand on the brake peddle process before you torque up the axle nuts to avoid stress on the CV joints and diff.

If you need an impact wrench for this job, look at this

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...nch-64120.html

This is a crude and brutal tool but gets the job done. Never use it to tighten fasters because it's uncontrollable, even when you release the trigger it keeps going for a while.
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post #24 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 03:04 PM
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I was starting to think the same thing... a mechanic that may not know the jeep.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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