Unibody rust, the never ending battle - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 161 Old 07-11-2016, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: River Falls
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Painted the spare tire and carrier. The carrier won't last the life of the vehicle if you drive in road salt. It is thin stamped metal that is riveted together. The cable appears to be stainless steel so I'm thinking it will outlast the housing.

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post #32 of 161 Old 07-12-2016, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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Found the operation of the tire carrier to be of poor design and quite annoying, so I had to change it. In order to lower the spare tire you have to remove the floor in the cargo area to access the crank on the carrier. I'm often loaded full with fishing and camping gear on trips. This means I would have to remove nearly half the load to open the storage area in the floor and operate the tire carrier crank. Luckily the mod was simple. I drilled a hole in the cover for the floor storage area so that I can insert the tire carrier wrench without having to unload a bunch of stuff. Used a electrical box 3/4" bushing to finish off the hole. Also found that the jack mounted in the rear quarter is starting to rust. You'd think it would be pretty well protected in that location. Put some more paint on this stuff
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post #33 of 161 Old 07-12-2016, 09:05 PM
Candymancan
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the pics dont work for me ? not sure why
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post #34 of 161 Old 07-13-2016, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
Rob K
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I used the uploader on the forum like I always do. Must be something with your computer or browser settings. It says by the photos I posted on this thread that they are "jpeg" files. I see your photos are "png" files. Maybe that will help in some way.
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post #35 of 161 Old 07-15-2016, 12:11 AM
BagusJeep
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Paint is not the best at stopping air and moisture from reaching steel on a vehicle body, you need something more creeping.I have tried ordinary underbody bitumen based sealants but they do not stick well and rust creeps under. Looking at all the choices presented i did not see any poster with a wax based product.

I use Dinitrol products, a mixture of rust conversion and moisture dispersants that you can spray into box sections and then a cavity wax and underbody wax. The idea is to convert the existing rust and then smother it with the wax products. You can then top it up from time to time. I use a cavity wax gun with a long wand that allows a 360 degree spray pattern when inserted into a box section. Dinitrol supply for most makes a diagram of the access points and cavity areas, only a few holes need to be drilled to get the wand in.

I start by cleaning and then inspecting all areas for loose coatings and rust, grind them back to bare metal, convert rust and then paint. This should take care of all surface rust but leaves the cavities untreated. I then use rust converter and follow up with a moisture dispersant. The wax then goes on and in (usually warmed up first to ease flow). It is a messy job!!!

Dinitrol is used by UK military to extend the life of LandRovers that are used under arduous conditions. There are other wax products but I like the smooth semi tough black underbody coating.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
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post #36 of 161 Old 07-15-2016, 10:08 PM
Candymancan
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WOW.. look how thin the metal on the tire carrier is.. and its held by a thin cable lol.. You wanna see the tire carrier that held my tire on my Grand Wagoneer ? Its 1/4 or at least 3/16th thick steel.. LOL i was suprised myself when i took it off, weighs a ton but that thing will never rust through maybe in 50 years.

Your carrier looks like its 16GA sheet metal.. Yours right that deff would have rusted quickly
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post #37 of 161 Old 07-15-2016, 11:07 PM
Domengo
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**** happens, so does rust. No point stressing over the inevitable.
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post #38 of 161 Old 07-16-2016, 01:03 AM
Candymancan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domengo View Post
**** happens, so does rust. No point stressing over the inevitable.


You can stop rust or prevent it.. That is a really ****ty mentality
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post #39 of 161 Old 08-15-2016, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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Sorry I have to vent. Started in on the rear cargo area today. I can't tell you how pissed I am. The neighbors were probably offended when I was swearing up a storm in the garage. Removed some stuff in preparation for painting. The bolts on the hitch and rear sway bar are so rusted in that I had a hell of time getting them out. Worked at them with penetrating oil, 1/2" breaker bar and the impact. Still haven't gotten the sway bar bolts out of the frame. Going to have to let them soak for a while. The nuts for the heat shield are stamped metal and crumbled apart when taking them off.

Apparently the salt brine on the roads is a lot more corrosive than I thought. I wonder how many people realize this. It is really doing some quick damage to our vehicles that we pay so much for. I get the feeling that I'm wasting my time with the undercarriage. I can't afford to buy a new one every 5-10 years so I guess I don't have a choice, but to keep at it. Pretty depressing since the Jeep is only 5 years old with 30k miles. Parked in the garage and gets frequent undercarriage washes in the winter. I thought I might have this one last longer if I took care of it.
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post #40 of 161 Old 08-15-2016, 09:02 PM
Domengo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
You can stop rust or prevent it.. That is a really ****ty mentality
1) You can't stop rust

2) You can't prevent rust. This thread is proof.

3) I'll ask you not to judge others unless you may be judged as well.
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post #41 of 161 Old 08-15-2016, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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Enough said. Drop it guys. I don't want this thread to turn into an argument.
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post #42 of 161 Old 08-16-2016, 09:20 AM
jeepjeepster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jordan96xj View Post
Fluid Film. It works as advertised. Definitely not a gimmick. I have gone as far as to wire down a few test areas to bare metal and protected with nothing but Fluid Film, and it has stayed rust free for 2+ months. And by rust free, I mean entirely rust free, no tiny traces, no surface marks, no stain, nothing. I wipe with a rag, and it looks exactly like the day that I wire wheeled it to the metal. So I use it pretty generously, and continuously on my XJ. The winters up here basically salt/sand blast the Fluid Film off pretty quickly, so it's not a once or twice a year thing for me, I treat all year long, whenever I'm under the Jeep doing various jobs. If I tear something apart, I use it as an opportunity to treat any of the hard to get to areas I keep my rocker panels, bumper interiors, door inners, and most of the floor pan under the vehicle treated as often as possible. Its especially important to get it into any of the pinch seams on the vehicle, and it works itself in very well. I also added access holes to my rocker panels so that I can keep then perpetually treated. I also do the inside of the frame rails every few months. (I drench them!). It's also on the shelves at Lowe's now, which makes it easier to pick up when I need more (I used to have to order from amazon). Downsides? It makes working on the undercarriage more messy (it will not dry, but it doesn't attract dirt/dust like one would think), and its priced pretty high.
This. Ive started coating my vehicles with fluid film in the fall to help keep down rust. My 94 ZJ and my 04 kj wasnt caught early enough. The Zj's rust isnt bad, but the rockers under the plastic have holes all in them. I cleaned everything, coated the insides of the rockers and frame with eastwoods internal frame coating and everything else with their rust encapsulation paint. Then everything gets coated in fluid film. I bought their spray gun with the bottles that unscrew. Buy the gallons for $40 or so, Works great and it has a nice hose to reach everything.

The kj has a hole in a rocker also and I took VERY good care of that Jeep. Its a shame that jeep didnt coat the insides of the rockers better. You see a lot of WJ's with rusted rockers also. I literally sprayed that Jeep off everytime I drove it in salt and that still happened. I coat the inside of those rockers with fluid film also. Pretty easy to do when they have holes in them...

1994 ZJ-I6 w/216,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/65,155 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/90,300 mi
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post #43 of 161 Old 08-17-2016, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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Made some headway today. Maybe another couple hours of sanding to get the gloss out of the crevasses before painting.
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post #44 of 161 Old 08-22-2016, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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Got the cargo area painted this weekend. The Chassis Saver starts setting up pretty quick. 3" paint roller worked well for getting it on there quick, followed by brushing it into all the crevasses. Foam brush applies a thin smooth coat. Cheap bristle brush leaves brush marks. Didn't bother trying to use a good bristle brush. Good enough for me. No one will see the brush strokes. Taking a break from painting to do some maintenance. Changing all the fluids. Hopefully in the middle of September I can pull off all the plastic and do the front and rear quarters. Not sure if I'll get the suspension done before it's too cold.
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post #45 of 161 Old 09-14-2016, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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Started taking everything apart in preparation for painting the front and rear quarters. Removed one of the rear flares today. Held on entirely by a variety of plastic fasteners. Had to take it easy. Seemed like a good chance they would break. There are two plastic rivets I had to break right above the tire. No way to take them out without breaking them. After removing the flare I see the rear bumper is held on with rivets that will have to be drilled out in order to remove it. I'm not a fan of the flares, but they are part of the body design and it looks even worse without them.

Edit: Looking back I would not have had to break those plastic rivets. Remove wheel, undo fasteners for plastic wheel well insert and flare. Remove the wheel well insert and flare as one piece.
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