Unibody rust, the never ending battle - Page 10 - JeepForum.com
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post #136 of 161 Old 08-24-2019, 03:12 PM
wscjeepzj
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pressure washer sandblast attachment

I found a like new used Generac 2300 PSI Pressure washer from a friend and thinking of what I can remember doing years ago to remove rust and paint from a heavy duty all metal staircase. Is to use a sand blast attachment from a pressure washer.

The lesson I learned years ago is to not use silica sand if your around plants, lawns, grasses, gardens, etc. Silica sand works but doesn't seem as if it's something good for the environment. It doesn't really mix well with earth, dirt, plants, grass, gardens, etc.

I have an area that's mostly sand and dirt so I think I'll try and find some regular or play sand.

Anyway with a pressure washer and sand blast attachment you don't really need to worry much about sand getting into the air as it's mostly mixed with water and rapidly falls to earth.

There's many different quality pressure washer sand blast attachments costing from ~$15.00 to over $100.00 with different ratings, etc.

e.g. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ontent=Default

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post #137 of 161 Old 08-24-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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What the heck. Thanks for the heads up on the pressure washer blaster.
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post #138 of 161 Old 08-24-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
Rob K
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So the hubs did not budge with the slide hammer. I watched some videos and guys just pound the hub off with a big hammer when they replaced them. I'm not replacing since the hubs are good so I'm out of luck. I cleaned up all the loose rust and they will get painted in place the best I can.


Spent a lot of hours brushing off loose rust. Also scrubbing off oil and fluid film. Tomorrow is paint day.


Oh yeah, I cooked the brakes today also.
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post #139 of 161 Old 08-24-2019, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Man there is a lot of stuff to work around in the front drivetrain. Probably should have just pulled it apart, but I'm in a bit of a hurry. I can always paint better when I have things apart for repair in the future. I did remove the front sway bar so that helps. Ready for paint except I'll give it a wipe down with acetone before hand. Painting all those parts attached to the vehicle is going to take a long time.
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post #140 of 161 Old 08-25-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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I was right. Took all day to clean it up and give it two coats of paint with a brush. Man that was tedious work. Got in a hurry toward the end and started getting it all over. Including myself. Good thing I wear safety glass because I would have taken a drip in the eye. That would have been quite bad. I still have to paint the brakes on the other side and the sway bar. I'll post photos later this week when I get things back together.


I'm still sort of put off by the welded lids on a fresh can of Chassis Saver. Wrecked the lid, but had a decent one from an old can. Oh and don't put to much solvent float on top of the paint for storage. I had to chip through a 1/4 rock hard skim to get to the paint. Splashed all over when the screwdriver broke through. Good thing I didn't get it in the face.


Another thing I noticed is that it's really hard to see anything after the first coat of gloss black goes on. Things are so dark that it's hard to see where you are painting unless you get the light at the right angle. It's like that stuff absorbs light like a black hole. Don't think I'll use black again for the drivetrain. Will have used nearly a quart for the front end job.
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post #141 of 161 Old 08-28-2019, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm pretty annoyed with myself. Have been busy day and night for weeks straight. Overtired and had poor judgement. Painted the sway bar tonight with chassis saver and had a little left over. What else can I paint? Oh there's some rusty brake pads left. I'll just do an experiment with the chassis saver to see how it holds up to heat. It's high build black so I'm realizing it's going to bind in the retainer clips. Guess I'll strip it off and hit it with a thin coat of caliper spray paint like I should have done in the first place. Should have it all back together by the weekend.
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post #142 of 161 Old 08-29-2019, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Chassis Saver, rust and the old finish where no match for the always handy angle grinder and a course wire wheel. Put on a coat of the VHT caliper. It's supposed to be baked at 200F degrees for an hour. Do you think I can do this with brake pads? How much sustained heat will they take?
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post #143 of 161 Old 08-29-2019, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like normal operating temp is around 100-200C. Mountain decent can be 200-400C. Should have no problem baking them to harden the finish.
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post #144 of 161 Old 08-30-2019, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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So I've been making some mistakes, either going to fast or working on things when I'm way to tired. I wasn't paying close enough attention to the baking and the temp got up near 250F and the VHT caliper clear coat started to turn amber. Or I left it in to long.


Found out you can put the sway bar on backward. By the time to get to putting in the lower control arm bolts they don't line up. lol


I've been finding out that it's pretty easy to mess up the Chassis Saver finish. The first coat usually brushes on and levels out nicely. It's the second and third coat that are tedious. I get in to much of a hurry and I seem to always get it on to thick and it causes a lot of runs and bubbles. I guess I should be thinning it out more and putting on more coats. It just takes so dang long to paint everything laying under the Jeep, I've been cutting corners. It looks bad, but I guess it's not a show car.


Here's an example of one coat on the sway bar and a cross member with two heavy coats.
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post #145 of 161 Old 08-30-2019, 11:48 PM
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Although I just bought my WK, I feel I need to chime in here. Life-long New York City dweller, with salted roads just about everywhere around here. I have a severe distaste for rust. It makes me uneasy. My former car had a galvanized frame, rust was never an issue. Apparently in Germany there's a law against selling cars that don't have galvanized steel frames (since the '70s or '80s). From what I have read, most worldwide manufacturers since 2006 have galvanized steel frames that do not get nearly as corroded as cars with basic steel.

I got rid of my previous ride and wanted something much more robust and capable of dealing with harsh winters as I am moving to the mountains in search of simplicity and a peaceful existence. The rat race in the city has driven me mad already.

Right before I got out of my X3, I went deep down a rabbit hole for 4wd SUVs available in my budget (up to $8000) and found only a few contenders. I needed a V8 to haul stuff around, that was a limiting factor. I ended up with 4 trucks, Jeep Grand Cherokee or Commander and the Toyota 4runner or Sequoia.

If you think our Jeeps rust bad, there's no comparison to Toyota!!

I went from 4runner to 4runner (and sequoia too) and the first thing I would do is get under the car and see pure Swiss cheese. It was terrifying! Rockers, suspension components, basically all the metal up in front including the frame and tow hooks were all rusted away on at least 4 out of 5 Toyota products I looked at. 2004-2008. I wondered how these cars were even still driving. There was no way you can go at highway speeds safely with that kind of rot.

Chassis and frame rot is far worse in my opinion than body rot. My 2010 WK has a few spots of bubbling and the dealer did do some patch work by the fuel door, but its just body, folks! It's not nearly as damaging as undercarriage rot. Control arms and other suspension components break away so often on Toyota trucks that they got hit with a class action lawsuit.

The truth is, I think manufacturers have learned a hard lesson from Volvo. My dad had a Volvo in the '70s and told me that it was impossible to break. All the components were designed to last a lifetime with regular service. That meant Volvo had less and less repeat customers over the years. That ended badly when Volvo filed for bankruptcy not too long ago.

At that point I am sure manufacturers realized they had better make it to break or there will not be a business anymore. So? Toyota made a good engine and tranny, and the chassis falls apart. Chrysler made a decent engine, tranny and chassis, but the body begins to rot. Every manufacturer has their own little secret.

If anyone can tell me whether WK have galvanized steel frames, I would tip my hat to you. My WK has no rot in the undercarriage, and only basic surface rust in some spots and pinch welds on the body. It has lived its life before me in Massachusetts so it has to have driven in salt at some point.

TL/DR Jeep frames withstand far more rust than Toyota frames.
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post #146 of 161 Old 08-31-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Someone I worked with had to scrap their Toyota because the frame was unsafe even though everything else was working and the body was decent.


My two Jeeps, KK and XJ, both have stamped sheet metal uni-frames. Same as your WK I believe. I wish they had a rugged steel frame.


I don't know if Jeep did any galvanizing of sheet metal. I'll pay closer attention. The fasteners on my 2011 KK are galvanized, but they are rusted with 8 years in the salt so the coating is not substantial.
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post #147 of 161 Old 08-31-2019, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Here it is, my runny and bubbly finish. Kind of wish I did the brakes in something other than silver, but they didn't have any colors I thought would look good.



I'm thinking the VHT caliper paint is not going to last to long. They should have been sand blasted instead of wire wheeled. Also I should have bought more cans and sprayed on a bunch of coats instead of two medium coats. Instructions say two light coats and one medium coat, but I'm thinking they need several more since the finish is not as durable as I would have expected. Might just be my prep work.
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post #148 of 161 Old 08-31-2019, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Also did some touch up on a bunch of rusty drivetrain fasteners that were painted just last year. Also touched up the bottom of the diff that drags in the sand dunes and takes a beating. I'm thinking touch up will be less frequent after several coats.



By the way, when it's fully cured, Chassis Saver doesn't stick to itself very well. My touch up areas are peeling off a year later. You need to scuff every time you want to touch up.

Rear suspension arms are quite rusty after painting them last year. Will do them again when I paint the back brakes.


I've been having to repaint the spare tire and tire carrier every year. Rust keeps coming back a little.
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post #149 of 161 Old 08-31-2019, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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All the body work I did two to three years ago with silver seems pretty good so far except this one fastener.
Apparently fasteners have a lot of edges that have a thin coat of paint. Obviously they need several coats. Then I suppose you'll have to wire wheel the paint off for repairs. Should be a lot easier than dealing with completely rusted ,seized bolts with rounded off heads. You know the drill.
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post #150 of 161 Old 09-04-2019, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Sprayed fluid film in the cross members and such. Front is done. Will start on the back brakes in a week or so.
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