Overheating when Idling -- question on fan part - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-26-2020, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
musmin2415
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Overheating when Idling -- question on fan part

So, from my research, it sounds like this has been talked about quite a bit. I've noticed over the past year that my jeep's temperature really started to creep up when I would be at a stop light or sitting in a drive thru. But once I would take off on a main road and get up to 30-40mph, it would cool off VERY quick -- within 30 seconds usually. I don't notice any leaks of any kind, and there's plenty of coolant. I also tried testing it by letting it heat up in my driveway, and then turn off ignition. I noticed the fan would keep spinning for a bit.

I don't know a lot about fixing cars, but I've done minor repairs on my wife's envoy -- replacing electric window motors, a/c actuators, water pumps, tune-ups, fan clutch, etc. So I have a couple of (dumb) questions when it comes to my 2011 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4:
- Am I on the right track for replacing the fan first?
- I'm guessing it doesn't have a fan clutch that connects to the water pump?? Just a cooling fan assembly?
- Can I just go with a fan kit from my local Autozone, etc?

I have another question, but it has to do with my engine light and an emissions leak. I'll have to save that for another post because I really just want to see what the most common causes are.

Btw, this is the fan that I'm looking at from Amazon --
TYC 621940 Jeep Liberty Replacement Radiator/Condenser Cooling Fan Assembly

Thanks!!

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post #2 of 9 Old 05-27-2020, 01:34 AM
pshivers
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The tow package has a mechanical fan and an electric fan. I wouldn't replace anything without knowing if it's broken. You'll need a meter to check voltages and resistence through the fan windings. There is a relay near the right headlight that controls the cooling fan. Check the fuse and relay for proper operation. Turn on a/c to test. Fan should come on as soon as the a/c builds pressure.

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post #3 of 9 Old 05-27-2020, 05:10 AM
jtec
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You say the CEL light is on - so why not start with a FREE code scan- many auto part stores* will do this for free.

*autozone often will scan for free

this is a 2011 liberty which engine? automatic, with AC and do you have a tow option?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-27-2020, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
musmin2415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshivers View Post
The tow package has a mechanical fan and an electric fan. I wouldn't replace anything without knowing if it's broken. You'll need a meter to check voltages and resistence through the fan windings. There is a relay near the right headlight that controls the cooling fan. Check the fuse and relay for proper operation. Turn on a/c to test. Fan should come on as soon as the a/c builds pressure.

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I'm guessing mine does not have the tow package (even though it has a hitch), as I only have the electric fan. There is no mechanical fan off the water pump. The fan does come on fairly soon after the A/C is turned on.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-27-2020, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
musmin2415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
You say the CEL light is on - so why not start with a FREE code scan- many auto part stores* will do this for free.

*autozone often will scan for free

this is a 2011 liberty which engine? automatic, with AC and do you have a tow option?
Well, I probably shouldn't have included that little fact. I'm dealing with multiple issues -- I had it checked at AutoZone and cyl 2 is mis-firing, and I have an emissions leak.

It's a V6 3.7L automatic (yes on the A/C), and I must not have the tow option, because I don't have the mechanical fan off the water pump, only the electrical. I thought I did, because it's a 4WD and has a hitch.
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-28-2020, 08:49 PM
tomknight
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put your vin in here, get your build sheet, and you'll see if you have tow option:

https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

2011 Liberty Limited
2006 Liberty Limited
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-28-2020, 10:58 PM
pshivers
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The coolant is 9 years old if you haven't serviced it yet. Old coolant turns acidic and can corrode the internal parts of the cooling system causing blockages. You may also have bug guts and what not all over the radiator and not allowing sufficient air flow through.

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post #8 of 9 Old 05-30-2020, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
musmin2415
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Hey everyone. So, I wanted to give a quick update just in case this helps anyone in the future. Also, in answer to the other question -- in my ignorance, I just assumed that since the jeep seemed to have all the other "bells & whistles", as well as the tow hitch, that it had the tow package. It does not, therefore, all I have is the electrical radiator fan.

So, what I decided to do is give it a full flush. I'm not a "car guy" (although I wish I was), but I called around to my usual auto mechanic, and then the jeep dealership, and they gave me quotes of $140 and $170. Side note: I thought it was strange that my auto mechanic never heard that a Jeep needed HOAT coolant, and that that might be a possible cause of it heating up.

With my limited funds (wife not working at the moment), I decided to do the flush myself and read up back-flushing the heater core and engine block. I bought the zerex G05, as well as some cleaner to run through the system. Most of my help came from different threads in this forum, so it was just a matter of piecing everything together. First, I drained the radiator -- I couldn't get the drain cock to work, and I read about others cross-threading it and never getting it to seal again once they removed it, so I just removed the lower radiator hose. Not too hard to get to, but incredibly messy. After that, I noticed I still had a bunch of coolant in the reservoir. I tried to remove that, but it was nearly impossible to get to the two hex screws on the bottom. (Any hints on that for the next time, please share.) So, I just removed the hose connecting the radiator and the reservoir and pointed it down to the pan under the jeep. From there I rinsed the reservoir with the hose and it continued to drain into the pan underneath.

From there I connected all the hoses again, put in the bottle of cleaner (can't remember the name), and filled the rest up with distilled water. I followed the directions and ran the jeep for 20 minutes with the heater on high. I also drove around a bit to hopefully get a 'deeper clean'. Came home, let it cool, emptied the system once again. I poured distilled water through the radiator until it ran clear.

Then I disconnected the two heater core hoses and ran water from the hose through one side at a time until it ran clear. (It seemed fairly clean to begin with -- no gunk or sludge.) I then re-connected those hoses.

I tried to disconnect the upper radiator hose in order to back flush the engine block, but one, I wasn't sure I was even doing that right, and two, I couldn't get the hose disconnected without being able to remove whole reservoir that was above the radiator. Anyway, long-story-short, it was almost midnight, and I was just praying I got everything clean enough.

From there I made sure all the hoses were re-connected and filled the system back up with 50/50 distilled water and zerex G05. I 'burped' the system for a bit, and then took it out for a drive. It heated up once, and then settled down. Crazy thing that I noticed, though, is that now the heater wasn't throwing any heat whatsoever! However, I felt that that could be a battle for another day.

This morning I got up, refilled the system (there were no leaks, so I assume it just cycled into the system a bit more), 'burped' it some more, and then went for a drive. I was going to put it through the real test -- it was fairly warm out, I was going to be running the a/c, and I was going to be waiting outside of a store for my wife, as well as waiting in a drive-thru.....AND, the temperature gauge actually stayed LOWER than it usually did! (Just below mid-way.) I couldn't believe that it worked! I came home, and topped off the radiator AGAIN, but still no leaks. I also read up on no heating problem, and it said that sometimes after a flush you won't have heat until all the air is out of the system. It seemed like I've let the system burp FOR SO LONG and there were STILL bubbles every once in awhile. I then took it out tonight, and I THINK my heating got better, but I'm not 100% certain.

Anyway, I'm happy that I saved some money -- over $100. And I especially want to thank forums like this that have so much helpful information. I love my jeep, and I hope it lasts me a LONG TIME. THANKS EVERYONE!

(If anyone has any advice or notes on this, I'd love to hear 'em!)
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-30-2020, 09:32 PM
pshivers
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To properly bleed the cooling system of air, leave the cap OFF. Start the jeep and let it warm up until the thermostat opens(operating temperature), then turn it off and let it cool down. As the thermostat opens, air will come out and the radiator level should go down. Do this a couple of times and you should be good. Glad to hear you fixed it.

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