Odd electrical happenings - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-25-2019, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
slomarsh
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Odd electrical happenings

Hi all,
Anyone else have these issues? Our 2008 KK occasionally gets weird electrical issues. While driving, a audible "bong" will occur. No lights or dash warnings accompany the "bong" This happens maybe once a week. Also, sporadically, the auto locks don't unlock either with the key fob or by opening the driver door while in "park". Pushing the unlock button on the driver door panel also does nothing. The only way I found to unlock the other doors and tail gate is to repeat lock and unlock on the key for a few times. Strange.

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post #2 of 10 Old 07-25-2019, 08:05 PM
lfhoward
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Location: Philadelphia
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I donít know about the lock thing but I get the ďbongĒ chime sometimes when the drivers seatbelt sensor goes on the fritz... I see the seatbelt light on the dash for a fraction of a second before it goes away. Try adjusting the seatbelt or your position in the seat to verify. Itís just a loose connection.

2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
4" JBA Lift & 245/75R16 BFG KO2's
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post #3 of 10 Old 12-04-2019, 12:57 PM
Danyael
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Location: Ohio
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Are you still hearing this? What you could do is run a diagnostic on your instrument cluster. The cluster and TIPM are the brains in your Liberty.
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post #4 of 10 Old 12-05-2019, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
slomarsh
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Odd electircal happenings

Thanks for your input. I changed the fob battery and the lock/unlock works very well now. Once in a while the lift gate won't unlock but rarely now. Also, the "bong" on the dash is less frequent now. It did happen nearly every time the Liberty was driven. Now it happens maybe once every two weeks or so. I'll keep the dash diagnostics in mind if that re-occurs.
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post #5 of 10 Old 12-05-2019, 08:04 PM
Rob K
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I had the random bong and seat belt light once or twice this fall. I've read of people having problems with the lift gate and door lock switches. My guess is they didn't use the highest quality components. The metal in all electrical connections will oxidize over time. Especially if you are in a humid environment or if they get wet from time to time.

Whenever I run into electrical problems the first thing to look at are things like connectors and switches. They are not sealed a lot of the time and the internal connections get oxidation or sometimes bad corrosion depending on what got in there and how much damage it caused. Would be great if they were all sealed completely from the environment, but then our vehicles would cost a fortune.

After connectors and switches I look for failed components. Sometimes they are obviously bad. Maybe overheated, burned or broken. Sometimes they look good and will need to be tested.

Lastly I check the wiring itself. Often it is run through places you just can't see so you do a visual inspection of what you can see and most of the time have to test it for failure. Wiring is sealed in a waterproof coating and rarely causes a problem unless it gets cut or pinched in some way. If you do find a problem with wires it usually the wire connectors or components they are attached to so check those first.

If I find bad electronic/electrical parts such as a connector or switch I will always try to clean it first before replacing it. That's if it looks good and has not over heated or burned up.

The two things I keep on hand are dielectric grease and electrical contact cleaner that has a little lubricant in it.

I put the non conductive dielectric grease on any exposed electrical connections. It comes in a spray can or a tube. Battery terminals are great place to use this after you clean them. I also pack the grease in electrical connectors to keep out moisture and to keep the metal from oxidizing, that's after making sure the connections are clean inside.

The other thing I used to use was plain old electrical contact cleaner(available at a lot of places in a spray can) for cleaning connectors and switches but realized I also still needed something that will coat the metal and protect it after cleaning it with the contact cleaner.

Moving parts like switches often need some sort of lubricant to keep them operating smoothly. The lube can get flushed out if plain contact cleaner is used. So for things like switches I like to spray in some contact cleaner that has lubricant added to keep the part moving well and to seal the metal contacts inside from further oxidation. So now I just buy one can of cleaner/lube and use it on everything, even things like connectors that don't have moving parts. I don't even own plain contact cleaner anymore. Why have two products when the one will do everything.

I should add that all the vehicles I've worked on have had mechanical switches with metal contacts inside. I really don't know if this is the case anymore with new vehicles. My newest is a 2011 Liberty and I haven't done any electrical work on it yet.

My favorite contact cleaner/lube over the years has been Deoxit D5 in a red spray can. I used a ton of it when fixing electronics every day. It is expensive but a little goes a long ways and will last you for many years for the home mechanic. It's great for all your home electronics also with metal connectors and switches with metal internal contacts. There are other versions that have more lubricant if needed, but for most things the D5 will suffice.

I haven't experimented much but recently I bought a cheaper cleaner/lube called MG Chemicals Super Contact Cleaner. I have yet to try it.

These sprays come with small spray tubes and you can often get some cleaner in a crack, hole or gap on a switch. Once it's in there move the switch around and work the button to distribute and clean. This often does the trick and save you from buying new parts.

That was long winded, but should help a lot of folks who read this.
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post #6 of 10 Old 12-10-2019, 09:38 AM
Danyael
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2004 KJ Liberty 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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I just had a 'weird' electrical occurrence happen starting yesterday (Mon, 12/09). My door locks like to continually lock themselves.. even while driving, parked, car off, key out of ignition.. etc.. I had to disconnect the battery cable. Drained the system, reconnected it, after about a minute, started happening again. Disconnected it and left if off over night (well past 12 hours). Connected it this morning, still doing it.

I just bought this piece of crap not even 30 days ago. Had a missing boot sleeve on front axle, HVAC system won't vent through anything except defrost (did change mode actuator, didn't help), and now this just started happening yesterday. I am the second owner and car had 52k miles on when I bought it. I haven't even put 1,000 miles on it yet.

I've been going back and forth with dealership and pursuing legal action (and leaving horrible reviews everywhere, dealerrating, carguru, carfax, google maps, yelp, etc.. Next step is formal complaint with ohio attorney general and legal council.

Thank god I have another vehicle or else I would have been screwed beyond belief because i am a contractor and that was my 'work vehicle'....
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post #7 of 10 Old 12-10-2019, 07:25 PM
lfhoward
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Danyeal, take the battery out of your key fob. The internal lock button mechanism can be stuck or broken. Then try a different key or just the same key. Depending on your year, you might set off the alarm by unlocking manually, but starting it with the chip key (even without its battery) should take care of it.

This may not be a Jeep problem but a key problem. This happened to me a year ago.

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4" JBA Lift & 245/75R16 BFG KO2's
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post #8 of 10 Old 12-10-2019, 07:52 PM
Libertyjeep2012
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See if you can get jeep cares involved. They did wonders at getting my dealer help to replace the head and timing chain in mine under the dealer warranty that the dealer sold it as with no cost to me.
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post #9 of 10 Old 12-27-2019, 08:08 AM
Steve.A
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I was getting the weird bong, along with the door and liftgate unlock issues, as well as a weird situation where I got a no crank unless all doors were closed. The 4WD was also difficult to engage and disengage and I had no speedometer. I also had numerous lights on the dash and some DTCs. The PO had wired an aftermarket fan into a relay on the TIPM, which I believe overloaded the circuit and damaged the circuit boards in the TIPM. I installed a rebuilt MACs TIPM that cured many of the issues. After the TIPM replacement, the door locks all worked correctly, the no crank issue with a door open was corrected and most of the dash lights went away. I still had DTCs: U1120 (Lost wheel distance), U1110 (Lost vehicle speed), and U0121 (Lost Communication with ABS module), no speedometer, difficulty getting into 4WD, and the occasional "bong" chime, for no apparent reason. I installed an ABS module from a wrecked low mileage KK and all of the remaining problems disappeared, including the sporadic "bong" chime. These Chrysler products have some "Dodgey" (pun intended) electrical systems. Tracking down defective modules is pretty tough without a bi-directional higher end scan tool. Even then, since "everything" seems to use the TIPM as a sort of network hub for the CANs, if there is an issue there, other defective modules may not be readily apparent since they don't seem able to communicate until the TIPM is corrected. It is no wonder that a new TIPM is on an indefinite wait list and the only things available are rebuilts.
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-27-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
slomarsh
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Wow, amazing that you were able to figure it all out. These electrical/mechanical integrated systems are universal in the industry now. Sure makes things more difficult to troubleshoot.
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