Low/no heat - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
swallman
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Low/no heat

I've got a 2008 Jeep Liberty Limited 4WD...last winter we noticed that the heat didn't seem to be able to keep up on really cold days (Minnesota winters). The blower motor also seems to have a high-pitched whine noise (more noticeable on high speed).

Now this year, the heat is almost non-existent. I do find if I have heat on max and blower set to low, I can turn the blower on high and get about 10 seconds of heat (out the front vents), then it gets cool again. If I wait another 2-3 minutes, I can repeat this process.

Thoughts? I'm not wanting to put a ton of $$$ into the vehicle as it has 130k on it and I just dropped $2700 to have the transmission replaced last month so budget is really tight right now.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 03:25 PM
jtec
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check for codes - there some codes generated by thermostat issues.
heater core both hoses feel equally HOT?
is there an air filter for HVAC?
CHECK THE TEMP DOOR Is going full travel.


130k is not high mileage on late model vehicles.
a trans at 130k is worth looking into seams premature.
consider a trans cooler.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
swallman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
check for codes - there some codes generated by thermostat issues.
heater core both hoses feel equally HOT?
is there an air filter for HVAC?
CHECK THE TEMP DOOR Is going full travel.


130k is not high mileage on late model vehicles.
a trans at 130k is worth looking into seams premature.
consider a trans cooler.
Vehicle warms up to proper temp so not thinking it's a thermostat. Both hoses seem to feel equally hot.

Temp door appears to go full travel (I can hear it move and it definitely goes from cold to hot).

Already has a trans cooler (has tow package).
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 06:55 PM
76shovel
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... and if it has an in cabin air filter, check it. The one in my daughter's 12 was blocked.
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 07:20 PM
azzkicker
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If you have an IR thermometer, you could check those hose temps and post the figures. If you don't have one, they're really cool and only about $20 if you're not trying to be super accurate (for automotive, I don't think you need fancy).

There's a few pieces to this system, any one of which could be at fault. From your description, other than the two hoses being equal temp, option number 1 is what I'm guessing it is, and what I would go after first.

1) hot water goes through the coils. The coils could be plugged on the inside (you can flush them backwards and help sometimes). Plugged coils, from sediment in your cooling system, would get gradually worse over time. Your symptom of turning the fan down, which would let the coil heat up, then it works for a few secondsHow is your coolant? has it always been clean? You can take the hoses off, back flush it, then use a garden hose on low to see how hard it is to push water the correct direction. If that's pretty clear, and backflushing didn't get any crud (put it in a bucket so you can see it), it could still be a coating on the inside, like slime, that is affecting the heat transfer to the fins.
2) Cabin air goes through the hot fins. This is where your blend door comes in. It sounds like you're confident that's okay. I would be really skeptical and triple check if back flushing didn't get results. The fins could be plugged with gunk, dust, whatever, so the air doesn't go through very fast. You could have some torn up foam or something that's supposed to seal around it, but is letting air go around instead of through. Neither of these would explain the ten seconds of hot air you can get. Somewhere, you should be able to find how to clean those. I would flush the water side first. Playing under the dash is not my thing.

3) Cabin air is driven fast enough by your fan. This is unlikely the issue, since you seem to get good air volume, and in fact get satisfactory results for ten seconds if you turn the fan down, then up. However, this would be affected by a bad fan, a clogged cabin air filter, blend door issues, or leaks in the air ducts (I had a whole section fall out of an old nova once). Just make sure you get plenty of volume out your vents, and I think that can be put to bed.


I don't think I missed the basic physics part, but I may have missed some causes of deficiency on one of those.

By the way, 130k and ten years doesn't sound ridiculously early to replace a heater core. They don't seem to last as long as they used to, and I don't think they ever could be counted on past 20 years.

Good luck. Please keep us posted.

07 WK 5.7 QD2, 4" lift, 33X10" tires, two M8000s
ARB twin air,Dual AGM group 49, sliders and skids
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post #6 of 15 Old 11-09-2018, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
swallman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azzkicker View Post
If you have an IR thermometer, you could check those hose temps and post the figures. If you don't have one, they're really cool and only about $20 if you're not trying to be super accurate (for automotive, I don't think you need fancy).

There's a few pieces to this system, any one of which could be at fault. From your description, other than the two hoses being equal temp, option number 1 is what I'm guessing it is, and what I would go after first.

1) hot water goes through the coils. The coils could be plugged on the inside (you can flush them backwards and help sometimes). Plugged coils, from sediment in your cooling system, would get gradually worse over time. Your symptom of turning the fan down, which would let the coil heat up, then it works for a few secondsHow is your coolant? has it always been clean? You can take the hoses off, back flush it, then use a garden hose on low to see how hard it is to push water the correct direction. If that's pretty clear, and backflushing didn't get any crud (put it in a bucket so you can see it), it could still be a coating on the inside, like slime, that is affecting the heat transfer to the fins.
2) Cabin air goes through the hot fins. This is where your blend door comes in. It sounds like you're confident that's okay. I would be really skeptical and triple check if back flushing didn't get results. The fins could be plugged with gunk, dust, whatever, so the air doesn't go through very fast. You could have some torn up foam or something that's supposed to seal around it, but is letting air go around instead of through. Neither of these would explain the ten seconds of hot air you can get. Somewhere, you should be able to find how to clean those. I would flush the water side first. Playing under the dash is not my thing.

3) Cabin air is driven fast enough by your fan. This is unlikely the issue, since you seem to get good air volume, and in fact get satisfactory results for ten seconds if you turn the fan down, then up. However, this would be affected by a bad fan, a clogged cabin air filter, blend door issues, or leaks in the air ducts (I had a whole section fall out of an old nova once). Just make sure you get plenty of volume out your vents, and I think that can be put to bed.


I don't think I missed the basic physics part, but I may have missed some causes of deficiency on one of those.

By the way, 130k and ten years doesn't sound ridiculously early to replace a heater core. They don't seem to last as long as they used to, and I don't think they ever could be counted on past 20 years.

Good luck. Please keep us posted.
Thanks for the suggestions...I picked up some hosing so I can more easily flush it tomorrow once it cools done...expecting that to be the problem (hoping LOL since replacing the core is $$$$).

I think the fan could be stronger so I'm wondering if there is a cabin air filter that can be replaced? I'll have to do some checking on that.
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-17-2018, 05:05 AM
mikedel59
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Were you successful in getting heat back? Please give an update. I have the same problem with the Jeep Liberty 2011. Thanks
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-17-2018, 10:09 AM
lfhoward
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There is a cabin air filter. It’s located behind the glove box. Open a small rectangular plastic door and the filter will come out in 2 pieces. You’ll be glad you changed it.




2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-18-2018, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
swallman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikedel59 View Post
Were you successful in getting heat back? Please give an update. I have the same problem with the Jeep Liberty 2011. Thanks
Not yet unfortunately...last weekend I tried to flush the heater core but couldn't get the hoses off the core. Clamps came off easily enough but the hoses just wouldn't loosen up. I even purchased a tool to help get them off but I couldn't get it to work (just due to space by the firewall).

I'll be taking it in and having it flushed sometime in the next week.
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-18-2018, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
swallman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfhoward View Post
There is a cabin air filter. Itís located behind the glove box. Open a small rectangular plastic door and the filter will come out in 2 pieces. Youíll be glad you changed it.



I'd be embarrassed to post pics of how dirty the cabin filters were in mine LOL...even a few pine needles stuck in there!

I got them replaced but still working on getting heat (although the fan runs way better now!)
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post #11 of 15 Old 11-18-2018, 12:27 PM
lfhoward
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When I changed my heater core I cut the hoses off the old one. Luckily they were still long enough to re-use in the new.

However, I experimented with trying to free up the old hose and here’s how I got it to break free. Use vice grips or regular pliers and some hand strength to turn the hoses on the pipes. They’ll break free and then you can pull them off.

2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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post #12 of 15 Old 12-03-2018, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
swallman
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Just thought I'd give everyone an update...after lots of trying I finally gave up and took it into the local shop to have the heater core flushed. They got the hoses off and then discovered that the hoses were "gunked up" as well so they did a full coolant flush. Not sure it had ever been flushed as we bought it with 90k and it has 130k on it now. Needless to say, we have great heat again!
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-16-2019, 04:15 PM
joseblesa
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I checked my air filter location, where everyone tells me to check it out, and there is no place for me to change the cabin air filters. Any suggestions? I belive it is eiether located at a different place (Which I cannot gind) or theis model simple came without a cabin air filter. Here is the picture>
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-16-2019, 05:13 PM
lfhoward
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Looks like yours didn’t come with that option, unfortunately. However, you can retrofit it! That’s what I did on my 08.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB...?f=104&t=41921

2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-24-2019, 03:32 PM
joseblesa
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Thanks, I will see into retrofitting it.
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