KK parking brake springs - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 05-27-2020, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
Fourspeedman
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KK parking brake springs

I am changing out the drum parking brake shoes. How in the world do you get the two springs back on to the shoes? There is a single spring on one side I can do but there are double springs on the other. The outside spring is impossible and the inside is really hard. HELP!


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post #2 of 19 Old 05-27-2020, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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The new parts came in. I spent three hours and nothing to show for it. How the $#@& does the inner spring get on?!? The short and long outside springs I think I can handle. But the long inner??!!?? Secret tool? Magic procedure?

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post #3 of 19 Old 05-27-2020, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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OK this gal made it look easy. Excuse me while I go hang myself...........

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post #4 of 19 Old 05-28-2020, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Done. What a nightmare. Whoever designed this mess surely got the Buttmunch Award that year for making a simple maintenance item 10 times harder than it needs to be. I can honestly say NO ONE has ever serviced these parking brakes in the 8 years/80,000 miles it has been on the road. That goes for the stealership too. The parts literally fell out- in chunks, slivers, and rusty dust. What was left of the shoe facings was just floating around in there. Anyway, I was on the right track as per the above video. I just didn't go HULK enough on it. That's right, the procedure is to gorilla the shoes on. You get the inner spring into the top and bottom shoes and literally crowbar them over the anchor pins to get them where they need to be. The gal in the video makes it look easy- it is NOT! Then you get the outside spring on and you have to really force it to reach. You think you are going to mangle something but it will get on. I made two tools that helped a lot. One is a big long flathead screwdriver that I cut a little groove into the end with a Dremel. That lets you grab the springs and force/guide them into place. The other is a cheap pair of really longnose pliers that I cut grooves at the end of each arm at the tip. That lets you grab the shoe anchor pin spring clip. It also grabs the shoe springs to help getting them into the holes. Without these I would still be there cussing. Take the actuator apart and lube it. One side was frozen. Another thing is to insert the adjustment hole rubber cover before you put the calipers on. You will thank me. Later when you adjust the parking brake shoes try not to push the cover into the hole or the entire everything must come off to retrieve it. Ask me how I know. I found that with the shoe adjustment screw even one turn off zero I could not get the new rotors on. It had to be all the way retracted it was that close. So I put the covers in place before the calipers went on because there should be minimum play. That means I now have to go look at the handbrake lever because I was able to pull about 6 inches of cable out when putting the end back into the actuating part that sticks out of the backing plate. When I went to set the handbrake it went all the way up with barely any brake action. I think the ratchet needs adjusting. That will need to wait while I recuperate from this torture.
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-29-2020, 06:52 PM
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Great, not looking forward to this. At least I know what I'm in for now.
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post #6 of 19 Old 05-29-2020, 08:35 PM
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Nice work, Fourspeedman. I’m glad you posted this. Wrangling my non-working parking brake is in my future, and I’ll keep this bookmarked.

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post #7 of 19 Old 05-30-2020, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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The parking brake handle actually is self-adjusting. But not as you would think. I researched the issue with it having too much travel and found that some of the units do actually fail over time. There are several shade-tree fixes that work as well as simple replacement. The entire assembly is available for around $60 but they can later fail too. I could not understand why it had too much travel just from the brakes shoe replacement. It turns out that there is a release mechanism inside that will let out all the cable. That is why I was able to yank 6" out to re-connect the end to the brake at the wheel. I found that you have to "goose" the adjustment spring in the handle to take up the slack. The handle is not physically connected to the cable drum. There is a spring clutch connecting them. That is the self-adusting part. As you lift the handle the spring tightens up and connects to the cable drum. What I did was to slowly pull up on the handle just a couple of inches and then slam it back down and lift again. That allows the spring to take up the slack. I did that again and again and eventually it took up all the cable slack and the parking brake was fully engaged with the handle 3/4 of the way up. Now it is just as it was before I worked on the brakes. I left the star wheel adjuters in the "zero" position so that there would be absolutely no brake drag. That leaves the handle to do the adjustment. Over time the shoes will need adjusting by the star wheel, but since it is a parking brake only I am thinking the shoes should last the life of the vehicle as long as they don't rust out. A true drum brake that incorporates the parking brake will wear down from use but this parking brake is never used to slow the car- just to hold it steady. I hope so because if this job needs doing again I am just going to set it on fire and walk away.

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post #8 of 19 Old 05-30-2020, 05:09 PM
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My 2011 emergency brake has never worked properly. Doesn't fully engage the brake even when all the way up. Star adjusters are hard to get at and not easily adjustable. I've seen there is a tab along side the brake lever under the boot that you do something with, which I don't remember, to get the spring to adjust on it's own. This did not make it work any better for me. I just tried your method and that didn't do anything. It seems like my only solution is to pull the wheels and try to get at the star adjusters.
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post #9 of 19 Old 05-30-2020, 06:10 PM
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There’s a parallel conversation going on at JeepKJ about parking brakes on both KJ’s & KK’s. It is probably worth a read.

https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/emerg...vehicle.75059/

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post #10 of 19 Old 05-31-2020, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourspeedman View Post
I found that you have to "goose" the adjustment spring in the handle to take up the slack. The handle is not physically connected to the cable drum. There is a spring clutch connecting them. That is the self-adusting part. As you lift the handle the spring tightens up and connects to the cable drum. What I did was to slowly pull up on the handle just a couple of inches and then slam it back down and lift again. That allows the spring to take up the slack. I did that again and again and eventually it took up all the cable slack and the parking brake was fully engaged with the handle 3/4 of the way up. Now it is just as it was before I worked on the brakes.
Does this mean lift the handle just a couple clicks, and then set it back down (over and over again)?

I think someone else said to hold the button in while lifting it? Is this latter suggestion unnecessary?

Just lift the handle a couple clicks without pushing the button in, and then set it back down, over and over again?

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post #11 of 19 Old 05-31-2020, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, that worked for a couple days then it got loose again. Back to the drawing board. This time I am going to try putting spacers on the cable up at the handle. That will make the cables artificially "shorter" . I don't want the shoes adjusted too close to the rotor as that is what caused the ABS sensor to overheat and go bad. I want lots of space in there. I want to shorten the cable so the travel is much less. But being this is my Daughter's KK and I am expected to run alongside to make repairs while she flies around it will have to wait for another day. Meanwhile read this. I am liking the split nuts used as spacers. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB...p?f=88&t=66764

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post #12 of 19 Old 06-01-2020, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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This is the topic about the ABS sensor over-heating because of the parking brake being too tight. I can only assume it was dragging from the factory because the anchor pin spring clips were the stock factory kind and all the parts were original looking. It not only ruined the inside of the rotor hat, but it killed the sensor which then shut down everything. This why I am trying to NOT adjust the shoes too tight but rather adjust the cable at the handle end. https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f292...tmare-4393473/

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post #13 of 19 Old 06-01-2020, 05:15 PM
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I'm really not looking forward to removing the wheels and brake calipers to get at the star adjusters. Even then I hear they are not easy. When I looked at the system in the past it appeared that the big spring with the yellow paint mark is what creates the tension on the cable to active the brakes. That spring was probably never adequate to create the right amount of force on the cable. Maybe when it was new but the tension probably weakened quickly and was pretty useless after that. An upgraded spring or mod may be the way to go. It would be a waste of time to replace it with the same thing to have it soon wear out. Possibly the system is not designed to be self adjusting. Maybe we are supposed to adjust at the star wheel as needed.
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post #14 of 19 Old 06-01-2020, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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According to the FSM the adjustment at the star wheel is the ONLY adjustment. It goes on further to say that you should use a brake caliper tool to measure the inside of the drum, and the outside of the shoes. You get it around 1/16" clearance and put the drums on. In my case if I even turned the start wheel one revolution the drum would not fit. That is why I left the star totally closed. But remember- this is a parking brake only. It is not a drum brake that will wear over time and add clearance. If it is too tight it is staying too tight and the drag will heat the drum. If you saw the condition of my dragging brakes you would leave it loose too. So as soon as I can get a day free I will take the console out and investigate. As Rob K said the big spring may just be old and tired. (like me!) There is another shadetree fix that I want to try too. It artificially tightens the spring. Stay tuned.

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post #15 of 19 Old 06-02-2020, 04:34 PM
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I assumed it was self adjusting because I hear so many people talking about it in various threads. If the star wheel is the only adjuster than that would explain a lot of things.
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