DIY Head Gasket Replacement 2002 KJ 3.7L - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 45 Old 07-22-2014, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
ghostrider27
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2002 KJ Liberty 
 
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Location: Cincinnati
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DIY Head Gasket Replacement 2002 KJ 3.7L

Hello all. I am a first timer jeep owner.
Just bought a 2002 Liberty with a blown head gasket and figured I would do I write up on how to replace a blown head gasket.

I will be replacing both sides just to be safe.

*This post will be edited on a continuous basis as I make progress on it*
*Pics will be added and tools will be updated as I need them*

Parts to be replaced
Left and right head gasket
Water pump
Water pump gasket
Coolant sending unit
Accessory belt
Exhaust manifold studs
Valve seats (left and right head)



Tools required:

5/16" 1/4" socket
8mm deep well socket
10mm deep well socket
10mm impact socket
10mm 1/4" socket
15mm impact socket (from my understanding, impact sockets have tighter clearances and are less prone to rounding bolts)
13mm socket
1/4" ratchet
3/8" ratchet
3/8" impact gun
3/8" extension
3/8" swivel
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" extensions
7/16" nut driver
Pliers
1/2" Breaker bar
1/2" Torque Wrench
Set of adapters
Channel locks

Manual and supplemental instructions:
AllData
Youtube
This forum

Step one

Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Removal of air intake system
Remove air hose from filter housing to air box on top of engine
Disconnect the hoses from each side of air box using 7/16" nut driver.
Remove air box from throttle body by loosening another hose clamp on the firewall side of the air box.
Remove air filter box by pulling and wiggling. The air filter box is held in place by 3 pins.

Removal of accessory belt, alternator, and AC compressor:
Using a 15mm impact socket and a ratchet, rotate the belt tensioner up and remove the accessory bolt.

Alternator removal:
Held by two 15mm bolts and one 13mm belt.
Remove 15mm bolts from front of engine.
Remove the 13mm bolt on the driver side of alternator. (On top of engine)

AC Compressor Removal
WARNING: DO NOT DISCONNECT AC HOSES OR COMPONENTS WITH OUT THE SYSTEM BEING EVACUATED OF THE COOLANT.
Same as alternator.
Unbolt and set compressor with lines attached on top of the air filter housing.

Removal of Spark Plug Coil Packs:

Using a pair of pliers, carefully compress spring on the hose running from the coolant reservoir to the radiator.
Remove hose from reservoir and place to the side.

The coils are held in place by one 10mm nut.

Disconnect wire from coil pack.
Unscrew nut and place in a labeled zip lock bag.
Coil pack should pop right off.

(Not sure if coil pack location matters, so just as a precaution, I am marking which one came from which cylinder).

Time Checkpoint: 55 minutes

Driver Side Exhaust Manifold Removal

SEE POST 6

Remove heat shield which is held on by 4 10mm nuts.

Bottom nut closest to the firewall requires a small 1/4" drive and 10mm deep well socket.

Passenger Side Exhaust Manifold Removal

SEE POST 6

Same as driver side. Can reach bottom 10 mm nut for heat shield from underneath car if necessary.

I highly recommend a 10mm impact socket to break the nuts free. I rounded one off by not doing so but was able to beat a 3/8" impact socket on.

Separate exhaust pipe at catalytic converter flange

This is simple. Take a small sawzall and cut the 4 bolts (2 each flange). Be aware of the tension spring flying off

Intake Manifold Removal

7 10mm studs and one 10mm nut.

Remove 10mm bolt holding the check engine oil tube to exhaust manifold.

Remove 4 5/6" nuts from the fuel rail.

Wiggle that manifold out of there.

Time Checkpoint: 3 hours 15 minutes


Fuel Rail Removal

Disconnect fuel rail from fuel line on the driver side of the engine.

Undo security clips on injector electrical connectors.

Remove electrical connectors.

Using a flat blade screw driver, rotate and pull the clips that secure the injectors to the fuel rail.

Gently wiggle the fuel rail off of the injectors.
Valve cover removal

Remove wire harness over valve cover

Back out the 10 10mm screws holding it on.

Gently pry valve cover off. DO NOT PRY ON THE VALVE COVER GASKET.

Crankshaft damper (Harmonic Balancer removal)

Need to rent a harmonic balancer puller from autozone or advance auto, etc.

To remove the crankshaft bolt, I used an impact wrench followed by a breaker bar.

Need to stick a 1" wrench in the harmonic balancer to keep it from rotating.

Oil Filler Removal

Held on by 3 8mm bolts and 1 8mm stud.

Power Steering Pump

Held on by 3 13mm bolts. (13mm socket with extension to go through the holes in the pulleys)

Timing Chain Cover Removal

Held on by 14 bolts and one stud.

Need to remove the serpentine belt tensioner (2 bolts) and power steering pump (3 bolts).

If I recall correctly, the timing chain cover bolts are 15mm.

Remove in order shown



Cylinder Head Removal

The first step in this is to remove the timing chain off of the sprocket.
Easiest way that *I* found to do it is to remove the chain guide, tensioner, and tensioner arm and that gave me enough play on the passenger side head.

On the driver side, I had to remove the camshaft sprocket to get enough slack.

Caution: It is imperative that the crankshaft timing mark is aligned with the TDC mark on the timing chain cover and that both V6 marks are at the 12 o'clock positions. Mark the chains in several spots

Once you get the sprocket and chain out of your way, the head is held on by 8 15mm bolts and 4 10mm bolts.

Cylinder Head Torque Sequence



For install

Tighten 1-8 to 20 ft lbs.

Then check in the same sequence to make sure the torque is correct.

Tighten 9-12 to 10 ft lbs.

Turn 1-8 90 degrees.

Turn 1-8 90 degrees for a second time, then torque 9-12 to 20 ft lbs.




Torque Sequencing and Specs
Intake manifold: 105 in pounds or 12 Nm. Remove in reverse order shown. Tighten in order shown.

Timing Chain Cover: Tighten to 40 ft lbs

Oil Filler: 9 ft lbs
Power steering pump bolts: 35 ft lbs
Valve cover: 105 in pounds. (Basically 8.8 ft lbs so i did 9 ft lbs)

Attached Images
 

Last edited by ghostrider27; 09-07-2014 at 09:19 PM.
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post #2 of 45 Old 07-23-2014, 07:31 AM
olliehopnoodle
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Cool write up. I assume you are going to add to the tools list as you go? While you have the heads off you will want to get them checked and I would recommend having the valve seats replaced. It's a common problem for our engines to drop the valve seat.

82 Cherokee WT - SOA/SF/agr box/Borgeson ujoint steering shaft/401/performer/holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/np208/d44(aussie)/amc20(ARB)/BFG 35X12.5/Corbeau Moab Seats/RCI 6point Harness,Hella Aux lights/tuffy console/killer32 slider bars/custom bumpers and roll bar/Alpine head unit/amps/speakers 2002 Liberty Limited Early edition - Basically stock
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post #3 of 45 Old 07-24-2014, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
ghostrider27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olliehopnoodle View Post
Cool write up. I assume you are going to add to the tools list as you go? While you have the heads off you will want to get them checked and I would recommend having the valve seats replaced. It's a common problem for our engines to drop the valve seat.
Yes I will update tools as used.

Currently waiting for some help to get the exhaust manifold bolts off. Turns out that they are not as easy to get off as my chevy s10. Rebuilt that engine twice in 6 months.
As for the heads, I plan on having them rebuilt.
Have rebuilt heads had the same valve problem or is it strictly a factory problem?
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post #4 of 45 Old 07-25-2014, 07:37 PM
olliehopnoodle
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I believe it is a factory only issue. Make sure your machine shop is aware of the factory issue. Mine was not aware of this specific situation (they don't know everything about every engine). My guy was more into old iron so a 'regular' shop might be aware but it can't hurt to let them know.
While you are at it, replace the HLA and chain tensioners. There isn't a lot of cost involved and it will save you the hassle of going back in to do it.

I did use the special tool for compressing the valve springs as well as the special tool for holding the cam shaft in place. There is also another special tool used to hold the chains in place, I just zip tied them and took several pictures. The chains have some markings on some of the links so it was easy to line them back up since the chains stayed on the crank sprocket.

82 Cherokee WT - SOA/SF/agr box/Borgeson ujoint steering shaft/401/performer/holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/np208/d44(aussie)/amc20(ARB)/BFG 35X12.5/Corbeau Moab Seats/RCI 6point Harness,Hella Aux lights/tuffy console/killer32 slider bars/custom bumpers and roll bar/Alpine head unit/amps/speakers 2002 Liberty Limited Early edition - Basically stock
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post #5 of 45 Old 07-25-2014, 08:20 PM
02blue
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I took a bit of a different route. I disconnected the exhaust manifolds from the exhaust from below and then removed the heads with the exhaust manifolds (and heat shields) attached. That weird spring clamp between the cats and the manifold. Piece of cake to get the exhaust manifolds off when they were out of the vehicle. Just another possibility unless I misinterpreted your process.

"Hey, ya never know til you try." Kurt Russell-Big Trouble in Little China
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post #6 of 45 Old 07-25-2014, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
ghostrider27
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Quick update, it turns out you can remove the heads without removing the exhaust manifold which is what I am going to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02blue View Post
I took a bit of a different route. I disconnected the exhaust manifolds from the exhaust from below and then removed the heads with the exhaust manifolds (and heat shields) attached. That weird spring clamp between the cats and the manifold. .
Where did you disconnect the manifold from the exhaust pipe? That spring clamp?
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post #7 of 45 Old 07-26-2014, 07:24 AM
olliehopnoodle
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I disconnected at the v-clamp. From my engine pull thread:

The exhaust was a little bit more of a pain. The connections at the Y pipe were pretty easy but at the manifolds I had to look up pictures of what a V clamp is. So once I figured that out you basically remove the nut completely and then use something to 'break' the ring free. There are three pieces to the ring and you will need to probably break each one free. After that, no issues. I used a tire iron, worked like a charm.

Do notice the orientation of the clamp, including which side the nut is on and the basic position. It will make the installation easier as there isn't much room to get to the nut, the folks at the factory probably had the best position figured out.

82 Cherokee WT - SOA/SF/agr box/Borgeson ujoint steering shaft/401/performer/holley TA/HEI/BeCool/727/np208/d44(aussie)/amc20(ARB)/BFG 35X12.5/Corbeau Moab Seats/RCI 6point Harness,Hella Aux lights/tuffy console/killer32 slider bars/custom bumpers and roll bar/Alpine head unit/amps/speakers 2002 Liberty Limited Early edition - Basically stock
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post #8 of 45 Old 07-26-2014, 02:47 PM
remmons
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This is a nice write-up. It's nice to see a write-up on here for those who are not sure of what to do. Since I am "old School" I'm sure that there will be something that I will need to become educated on.

Robert.
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post #9 of 45 Old 07-30-2014, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
ghostrider27
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Sorry for the tardiness. I have been caught up with work and I am waiting for the special tool 8429 to lock the secondary camshaft chain. Oh and the exhaust manifold situation is driving me nuts...


Edit (11:12 est july 31): Tool came and I am hoping to have the heads off. While I am waiting for the heads to be inspected by the machine shop, I will post some photos as promised.

Last edited by ghostrider27; 07-31-2014 at 09:13 PM.
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post #10 of 45 Old 08-02-2014, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Got the valve cover off. Decent amount of sludge inside the valve cover
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post #11 of 45 Old 09-10-2014, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Deleted

Last edited by ghostrider27; 09-10-2014 at 08:17 PM.
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post #12 of 45 Old 09-24-2014, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
ghostrider27
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Installation is reverse.

I'll gladly answer any questions.
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post #13 of 45 Old 12-22-2014, 08:50 PM
c4yourself2
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Thanks for the write up!

Big thank you to ghostrider27 for this valuable write-up . I just purchased a 2002 Jeep Liberty with a blown head gasket. Following your steps, currently the intake is off. A couple of details to add is that you will need a special tool from any auto parts store to remove the fuel line ($7 at advanced auto).

Ok time for questions...
1) The plastic clips on top of the valve cover studs, containing the wiring harness for the coils and fuel injectors, what's the trick to get them off with out breaking them?
2) The clip at the passengers side valve cover (close to the fire wall) holding the heater hoses won't release, any tips? Looks to me that the metal heater lines that run on top of the valve cover need to be removed also (didn't see that in the write-up).
3) The bottom of the air intake box, how does one remove this? Just yank it straight up? (I don't want to break it) I believe this would help by giving me more room to wrench on the passenger side valve cover and head bolts.

Thanks in advance for any advice!!

Chuck
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post #14 of 45 Old 12-22-2014, 09:23 PM
02blue
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I just swung the whole fuel rail out of the way after pulling the injectors out of the heads. Nothing to disconnect. Zip tied it to the hood lift.

1) patience and gentle pressure while pulling. Maybe some heat from a hairdryer. Just watch for any spilled fuel.

2) Not sure what "clip" you mean. If you drain the coolant (petcock on radiator) then remove the reservoir and undo the heater hoses at the firewall the whole hose assembly can be lifted toward the front of the engine. I actually disconnected mine completely and removed them for access.

3) Yes just yank it straight up. If it hasn't been removed before it will take some force.

Good luck

"Hey, ya never know til you try." Kurt Russell-Big Trouble in Little China
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post #15 of 45 Old 12-25-2014, 11:00 PM
c4yourself2
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Harmonic Balancer Puller from Advanced Auto, does not work.... both push rods are to short, found a video on youtube where the guy put a bolt from the kit on the end of the crank and got it off that way. I guess I'll try that later today...bedtime now.

Update- I got it off, went by the youtube video. Here is a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrcL6kJOr14

Chuck

Last edited by c4yourself2; 12-26-2014 at 09:06 AM.
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