Changing Rear Drum Brake Pads / Shoes - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 10-27-2004, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Changing Rear Drum Brake Pads / Shoes

Is this difficult? What do I need to do?

My Liberty is just about to reach 50K and although they still have some life left to them, I'd like to change them because they are starting to feel spongy to me. For example, I use the emergency brake, I have to pull the handle way up now.


It's a Jeep thing, we ALL understand!
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-03-2004, 06:10 PM
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Changing brake pads either front or rear. However, each vehicle is different. The rear brakes on the liberty are disc and you will need to simply remove the caliper by removing the bolts, remove the pads from the caliper and then compress the caliper piston with a c-clamp. Once the piston is totally compressed, remove the clamp, replace the pads, reinstall the caliper, tighten the bolts, pump the brake to seat the pads, reinstall the wheel and do the other side. As long as you don't need to replace the rotors or the calipers you should be able to do this job in a couple of hours. I recommend you have the calipers turned if they are grooved or otherwise damaged.

If you have drum brakes the job is a little more complicated but not too much. Remove the drums, remove the shoes using a pair of pliers,needle nose work best but regular pliers will work. Have the drums turned down! Compress the wheel cylinder and replace the shoes. Put the drums back on and you are ready to go!
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-04-2004, 11:09 PM
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yeah but ummm... your hand brake pulling way up, has nothing to do with the wear on your brakes..., please correct me if I'm wrong, but it was never the cause on any of my previous vehicles.

fyi ridge-02's definately have drums not disc.

I've had other cars that went 100,000 + without needing a rear drum replacement. Drums dont wear out very easily. I'm at 37k, I barely need new front pads and I drive like an idiot, so I highly doubt you need new drums. \


I suggest picking yourself up a real service manual on e-bay, $10, but it'll tell you more than you ever wanted to know about your jeep.
FRom the manual
"PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
The parking brake is a hand lever and cable operated
system used to apply the rear brakes.
OPERATION
A hand operated lever in the passenger compartment
is the main application device. The front cable
is connected between the hand lever and the rear
cables with an equalizer.
The rear cables are connected to the actuating
lever on each primary brake shoe. The levers are
attached to the brake shoes by a pin either pressed
into, or welded to the lever. A clip is used to secure
the pin in the brake shoe. The pin allows each lever
to pivot independently of the brake shoe.
To apply the parking brakes, the hand lever is
pulled upward. This pulls the rear brake shoe actuating
levers forward, by means tensioner and cables.
As the actuating lever is pulled forward, the parking
brake strut (which is connected to both shoes), exerts a linear force against the secondary brake shoe. This
action presses the secondary shoe into contact with
the drum. Once the secondary shoe contacts the
drum, force is exerted through the strut. This force is
transferred through the strut to the primary brake
shoe causing it to pivot into the drum as well.
A gear type ratcheting mechanism is used to hold
the lever in an applied position. Parking brake
release is accomplished by the hand lever release
button.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever. The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warning
light whenever the parking brakes are applied.
Parking brake is self-adjusting when the lever is
pulled. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at the factory,
should not need further adjustment under normal
circumstances.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - LOCK OUT
NOTE: The parking brake is self-adjusting, It can
not be adjusted.


Perhaps something with the strut? tensioner? dunno.

However, ususally brake inspections are free, and they usually recommend something be done, regardless, therefore, have the inspection done when your getting a lube oil filter, they'll tell you (hopefully honestly) if they are that far gone, and then you can tell em "no way I'll do it my self", or let them charge you $40 for having everything "adjusted", or let them install new pads that you dont need.
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post #4 of 6 Old 11-11-2004, 12:23 AM
swyszomirski
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just because you have to pull the e-brake all the way up does not mean the brake drums are gone, you can adjust the e-brake so it grabs without have'in to pull it up to the stop. my e-brake needs adjusting and the liby only has 11,500 miles on it. Also I thought liby's dont have drums in the rear, at least not on the 04's
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-11-2004, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swyszomirski
just because you have to pull the e-brake all the way up does not mean the brake drums are gone, you can adjust the e-brake so it grabs without have'in to pull it up to the stop. my e-brake needs adjusting and the liby only has 11,500 miles on it. Also I thought liby's dont have drums in the rear, at least not on the 04's

Rear Brakes
2002 - drums
2003 on - disc

*NOTE 2003 and on DO have drum brake components INSIDE the rotor (comonly knowns as a 'top hat') that are specificaly for the parking brake.

-Brian

'03 KJ Limted
3.7 / SelecTrac / Skids / Hooks / Class IV Hitch
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-11-2004, 12:04 PM
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Also as noted above:

the cable tensioner should not need adjustment, but if your pulling it all the way up, then "normal ciscumstances" do not apply. Your dealership might be able to help, then.
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