2002 Radio codes? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-16-2019, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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2002 Radio codes?

I need to check if there is an electrical draw when my 2002 is turned off. If it sits more than a few days it'll be dead when I try to start it. The battery is relatively new so I don't think it is the battery. I was going to check the current draw by disconnecting the negative from the battery and placing my DMM in series, as most suggest, but then I'm concerned that'll reset the radio. I'm about the 10th owner of this car so no idea where the code would be noted as I didn't find it in any of the papers in the car, or if there is even a code required. Does this model require a code? And if it does can I get the code before I disconnect?

My daughter is saying that when she replaced the battery the radio just worked so maybe it doesn't take one. Can anyone confirm?

And related to the electrical problem, are there any known electrical issues that develop that would drain the battery? Aside from just about everything in this car... 151k miles and still limping along, and still looks almost new on the outside.

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post #2 of 5 Old 11-17-2019, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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OK, no radio code required. I did the test and the current draw of the car when turned off is .02amps, within normal range considering clocks, door locks, and other little items that stay on. The battery read 12.02 volts, so while that sounds right my understanding is that it should be at 12.6v unloaded. It is a relatively new battery though and is probably OK.
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post #3 of 5 Old 11-17-2019, 09:41 AM
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you should wait about 1/2 hour for modules to go to sleep.

Jeep is STOCK - the as delivered audio, lighting, remote start If applicable, nothing plugged into DLC, no tow harness added or you do not tow, nothing electrical added.

Anyway the battery voltage is low - do a fast alternator test, voltage at battery engine off then voltage at battery engine running.
Thinking you might want to do a alt diode test.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #4 of 5 Old 11-20-2019, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the battery again, voltage off vs. voltage on. I got 12v with the car off, and then it was 14.2v with it running. Also, I checked AC voltage with it running and it was 0, except that it would flash. I would expect unsmoothed voltage to do that though.

This battery was a replacement that a garage put in, and it isn't something I'd have bought. Even the mechanic that did the state inspection a few weeks ago commented on it. He called it a gel cell. I don't know if that's good or bad but it isn't the typical wet cell.

I'm trying to sell this thing and I just want it to start first time when someone comes.

I was taking a trip last week and wanted to take this car to the airport and leave it in long term parking for a few days since we don't use it much, but at 5:30am I go to start it and there wasn't enough juice and it was too late to try to jump it again. Also, I didn't want to return and find a dead battery. What a PITA this car is. I'd just donate it if I didn't want to recover at least a little money from it. It does still run pretty well once it starts, and it still looks great.
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-28-2019, 11:19 PM
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A new battery should read approximately12.76 volts, yours is 12. Your at 14.4 when the car is running, that's good. I would have it load tested at your local auto store. Good chance it's the battery. They could tell you for sure.

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