2002 Jeep Liberty 3.7L engine only starts with gas and shuts off if i let go of gas. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 05-08-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
Ap23242324
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2002 Jeep Liberty 3.7L engine only starts with gas and shuts off if i let go of gas.

Hello everyone i need some advice/help from my fellow liberty owners. I have an 02 lib 3.7 recently my jeep started to slowly have problems when i would turn the key it would struggle sometimes for a bit but eventually turn on then it would take a few months or more to do that again. Recently i noticed it showed the check engine light i took it to autoZone and they gave me codes some that had to do with misfires and injectior codes then a thermostat that possibly was bad cause the engine wasnt heating quick enough. So i checked my injector connections and cleaned them and the check engine went away. 2 weeks later they came back same codes only a few codes went away like the thermostat one and the misfire codes along with only two injectior codes that came back. So i clean them again and use lucas fuel injectors cleaner and seafoam in my gas and crankcase. Check engine goes away and doesnt come back. Now a new problem coming when i turn on my truck in the morning it doesnt go into 2 gear and stays at 10mph unless i let the engine warm up to temperature or press the gas very aggressively then it somehow goes to second gear like normal. It went away then it came back for two months. I my engine sometimes would cut off on idle but very rarely just randomly like 4 times a yr. i also had an 02 sensor code when i went to autozone that i forgot to mention. So today my brother drove my truck and long story short he said it turned off on him and right before it turned off he said it made a loud tapping noise ( i forgot to mention my engine makes a tapping noise which sounds like a lash adjuster that might be collapsed based on my research) before it turned off. So he turned it back on with some trouble and came home. I tried to turn it on normally by turning the key and it didnt turn on at all. So i press the gas and nothing. I press the gas again and a little harder and it sounded like it wanted to turn on but it didnt start. Now i pressed the gas to the floor and it started and i let go of the gas and it turned off. I tried it again and kept pressing the gas and it stayed on it feels slightly shaky like if something was plugged and my check engine light is on. It also smells odd like burning firecrackers smoke. Basically my theory is it might be a bad catalytic converter/s cause ive heard they can cause this type of problem i know its not a plugged fuel filter cause it doesn’t sound like the symptoms of that since my car didnt want to go to 2nd gear until i warmed up. Please let me know your thoughts guys thnk you very much if you read my whole story.

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post #2 of 12 Old 05-08-2019, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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I have a ticking noise that comes from my engine what could it be ? It gets slightly better if i drive the car for atleast 30mins it sort of quiets down. The car runs ok for the most part it goes into gear and everything well. Turns on good etc etc. the only problem ive had recently is in the morning if i drive it right away after turning it on it doesnt go to 2nd gear unless i floor the gas pedal or the engine warms up to temp. I believe it could be the lash adjuster aka the lifter. What are you guys or gals thoughts.
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post #3 of 12 Old 05-08-2019, 08:31 PM
02blue
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Sounds like many issues here. A complete list of the actual fault code numbers would help. As for the sticking in 2nd gear, what condition is the transmission fluid and when was it serviced last? Lash adjuster do get weak and can cause noise until they lose enough tension and then the rocker will fall off. That will cause a very loud tapping and misfire. Bad catalytic converters can cause all sorts of issues. The combination of the loud tapping and needing to give it gas sounds alot like mine did when I spun a rod bearing. Before you worry about that I'd get the current codes first and see if you get a catalytic converter code.

"Hey, ya never know til you try." Kurt Russell-Big Trouble in Little China
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post #4 of 12 Old 05-08-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for the input , my transmission fluid color is almost perfect pinkish color i dont feel its the transmission though im not sure the last time anyone changes the trans oil but i have always checked it and maintained the adequate level of it. My truck made more of a ticking noise im not sure what a spun rod bearing sounds like but my ticking goes away if i press the gas and accelerate it comes back when the car starts slowing down around 20mph it gets quieter after around 30min of driving or so. As for the codes i will check and post them here. I will note that the codes no longer came up after I removed the injector plugs and used contact cleaner spray then reconnected them back. There was an o2 sensor code that said it was getting too hot but that went away when i fixed the injector wire codes. Basically those codes said that there wasnt good connection and it was an open circuit which sometimes means the connector isnt on there tight. Also i opened the valve cover and replace one lash adjuster and saw a hairline crack in the pocket where the lash adjuster goes inside im not sure if that can effect compression. There was no rocker arms that fell they were all intact i might have a picture just to show you what it looked like the lash adjuster I did replace seemed like it had some play inwas able to squish it down some and I dumped it into oil to see if it would stiffen up but it stayed collapsed. Ive heard a good lash adjuster is supposed to be really hard
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post #5 of 12 Old 05-09-2019, 07:22 PM
02blue
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Yes good lash adjusters are very difficult to compress. The crack is troubling. That head may be on its way out if it isn't already shot. I'd still like to see a list of codes you had and/or currently have.

Spun rod bearing will be a knock not a tap or tick and it'll eventually lock up and freeze the crank. Sometimes the timing chains will chatter as the tensioners are hydraulic and can wear. Exhaust leaks can also sound like a ticking noise. As things heat up and expand they can seal up too.

"Hey, ya never know til you try." Kurt Russell-Big Trouble in Little China
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-24-2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02blue View Post
Yes good lash adjusters are very difficult to compress. The crack is troubling. That head may be on its way out if it isn't already shot. I'd still like to see a list of codes you had and/or currently have.

Spun rod bearing will be a knock not a tap or tick and it'll eventually lock up and freeze the crank. Sometimes the timing chains will chatter as the tensioners are hydraulic and can wear. Exhaust leaks can also sound like a ticking noise. As things heat up and expand they can seal up too.


So here are the codes below

P0206 injector circuit/ open- cylinder 6

P0202 inj circuit/ open- cylinder 2
P0204 Injector circuit / open - cylinder 4

P0141 O2 heater circuit ( bank 1. Sensor 2)

P0171 system too lean (bank )

What i did was remove my injectior connectors from those cylinders and cleaned them with contact cleaner and plugged them back in. The check engine light eventually went away on its own then came back on later as a thermostat code saying engine staying cold too long. Then that went away on its own too. Finally my check engine light came on again and then the car was hard to start then eventually it only started if I pressed the gas pedal all the way down to the floor and it caught on and turned on then i have to keep the foot on the gas pedal otherwise it turns off. So i figured it was the cat converter that was clogged and i removed the right cat converter and it started a bit better but it still shuts off if the gas pedal isnt pressed. So I removed the other cat in the driver side and start the car and wala it stays on by itself without pressing the gas. Now i have to figure out if the rear cat is the one plugged or if one if the sensors is messed up so maybe its sending the pcm a bad signal or no signal at all so thats why i cant start it. P.s. i had to replace those injector plug connectors which broke when I disconnected them a while back when I removed my valve cover. I cut the wires off a jeep from the junkyard that looked well kept and used those connectors as replacements.
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post #7 of 12 Old 05-24-2019, 03:26 PM
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did the above codes come from a scan at autozone - Yes or No?
I am thinking there are more codes.
Did you replace the cats yet?

The P020x codes, check the inj connectors NEW connectors are available and easily replaced.
correct description - P0202-INJECTOR #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT, key word CIRCUIT.
#2, 4 and 6 are all 3 cylinders on passenger side.
Might want to us a noid light and observe - on steady. flashing, not on at all.

p0171 is bank 1 reading lean.

A fuel pressure test, PSI, then leaving Key On Eng Off KOEO observe pressure drop, post drops Xpsi in 5minutes.

An exhaust backpressure gauge would determine if cats are truly clogged before spendig on new units. Often available as a rental or loaner tool, fast easy to use.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 05-26-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
did the above codes come from a scan at autozone - Yes or No?
I am thinking there are more codes.
Did you replace the cats yet?

The P020x codes, check the inj connectors NEW connectors are available and easily replaced.
correct description - P0202-INJECTOR #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT, key word CIRCUIT.
#2, 4 and 6 are all 3 cylinders on passenger side.
Might want to us a noid light and observe - on steady. flashing, not on at all.

p0171 is bank 1 reading lean.

A fuel pressure test, PSI, then leaving Key On Eng Off KOEO observe pressure drop, post drops Xpsi in 5minutes.

An exhaust backpressure gauge would determine if cats are truly clogged before spendig on new units. Often available as a rental or loaner tool, fast easy to use.
Yes it was a scan from autozone im almost 100percent sure. I had an old cat converter from a working jeep lib 2003 so i just used the sensors from that cat and swapped them to my cat to see if that fixes the prob. Im in the process of putting the cats back on. I also have pictures of the insides of the cats if that helps any?
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-14-2019, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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So i was watching a video on compression tests since i was researching a possible burnt valve then it got me thinking what if I accidentally dropped a valve keeper when I compressed my valve to remove my lash adjuster and maybe i didnt notice so now that valves have no keepers they are only being compressed by the rocker arm and maybe that valve isnt closing properly which would makes sense cause the engine is running eich or lean and raw gas might be leaking through which would mean its losing compression also
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-27-2019, 07:01 PM
cmarkley77
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Im having the same issue but when i get it to start by repeatedly pressing the gas pedal after it dies there is a puddle of fuel coming out of the tail pipe...Did you get your problem resolved
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-28-2019, 08:21 PM
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yeah... sounds like multiple issues... but as for the one in the title... same thing happened to me recently, and replacing my Idle Air Control valve seemed to help.

>pretend there's something witty and amusing here<
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-28-2019, 09:20 PM
jw31bn
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I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty 3.7 and had the same trouble. Itís your fuel pump letting you know it going bad.


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