06 Liberty 3.7 4x4 heater hose - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-01-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
davidjc
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06 Liberty 3.7 4x4 heater hose

Just had engine overheat while driving up Wolf Creek Pass CO. Coolant was boiling in reserve tank.
Local repair shop diagnosed it with pressure test as slow leak in heater hose that over time had lost nearly 1 gallon. They couldn't get new hoses in time so they topped off coolant for me and i towed it home behind motorhome.
Question: Is the heater hose replacement an easy job or does it require any special tools, or removal of other components? Also, I see that it has some metal components in the hose. Can the rubber hoses be replaced or do i replace the entire metal/rubber sections?
Thanks for any input.
David

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post #2 of 14 Old 07-03-2019, 10:18 AM
RussB81
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Depends on which end is leaking. The heater core end is crimped, the thermostat end is hose clamps. The metal pipes should be good. If it is the thermostat end those aren't bad to get to and replace. I think those are just sections of hose clamped at both ends. If it is the heater core end leaking it is likely at the crimp and the metal pipes will need to be replaced.

They aren't hard to do. It helps to pull off out the air box and air tube to throttle body to get access. Most likely you'll have to replace the whole hose/pipe set-up.

I usually replace the clamps with the worm drive type hose clamps because I hate the OEM squeeze kind.
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-03-2019, 11:05 AM
Brad426
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Keep in mind that overheating the engine (a modern engine like the 3.7) might haunt you down the road. Generally speaking it can lead to head gasket failure in the future. I'd replace all the heater hose if you don't know their history as cheap insurance. You have to drain the engine anyway. Good old worm clamps work great to replace any crimps. At the heater core end. Cut the hose off the heater core spicket (#11). Trying to wiggle or pry the rubber off can crack the copper heater core spicket. Then it get's ugly.

Check these out:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/...-hose-1102831/



BTW, Nice looking rig and Libby.
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-04-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thank guys. I'll take your pointers when I start. Ordered complete set so should be in next week. Also, mine must not be original as they have spring clamps at both ends. That should make it easier. New set comes with new spring clamps. Thanks again.
I'll be back 🤔
PS, I'm on smart phone so mistakes are expected.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-08-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Hose set came in today. Hope to start tomorrow.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-08-2019, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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With new clamps
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-09-2019, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Update. Installed new hose set today. Took me about 2 hours and my first one. Removed plastic overflow tank at firewall. Removed breather housing. That gave plenty of room. Used channel locks to remove pinch clamps. A little tight but doable. Getting new clamps in was a little harder. Screw/worm clamps will be easier.
Lost lots of coolant when disconnecting hoses. Caught most if it in tubs.
Now just waiting to top off coolant after I can tell how much more it needs. Test drive tomorrow. Watching for leaks tonight.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-11-2019, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I wish I had good news. If there is any it's that the new hoses do not leak. However, I took the liberty on a 140 mile round trip today up the interstate to test its cooling capabilities. It OVER HEATED AGAIN!
So I stopped under an overpass and raised the hood. No dripping, plenty of coolant in the tank. So I looked for signs of moisture anywhere and saw a tiny amount on top of the radiator, plastic part where the upper hose connects. A hairline fracture evidently, as I could wipe it away and it immediately came back. But the coolant level was good. SO.... Now I'm hoping that a complete radiator, pump, thermostat and hose replacement will cure whatever the root cause is.
Anyone here got any suggestions?

Some other history. . . The ESP/BAS,ABS and Traction lights come on sometimes whenever I hit a bump. Sometimes they'll reset at some point later, other times they're on til I kill the engine. And I can sometimes feel a little drag/surge feel in the engine at highway speeds. Only momentarily. And when the dash lights are OFF, I often feel the brake pedal (ABS) pushing back a little when I apply the brakes. I'll get codes checked on this but wanted to pass it along in case it may have something to do with the overheating. I had the RR speed sensor replaced a few months ago when codes indicated that was the issue, but the lights still come on.
FIRST Priority is overheating.

Thanks again.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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So I went out this morning and checked cold coolant level. It was on the mark. I started engine and turned on heater on high. Let it run until the top radiator hose was warn/hot. Bottom hose never got warm. Saw dripping from weep tube on passenger side firewall. I had ac compressor on also. No other drips. I tried burping the system per several videos online.
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 11:32 AM
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Bummer. It does not sound like you have a coolant loss issue. I've had failed cylinder head gaskets cause engines to over heat. Two things will be noticed if this is the case. Your cooling system will be exposed to high pressures and the hoses will bulge and you might notice white exhaust. You said the fluid level remains good so the engine is not sucking coolant in. That's good.

Maybe the rad is plugged up. I'm not sure if you can see inside the cooling tubes on that model. You might put you hand on the rad to feel if it is warm after the engine gauge shows operating temperature.

Water pumps will always move the coolant. I've never seen a water pump impeller slip or come off or a bushing fail. They usually leak first as a a warning. So I would rule out the water pump as the cause of the over heating at this point. First. Bench test the thermostat to see if that is the root cause of your problem. Drop it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens and take it out to see if it closes. If it passes I would seriously look at a rad. your going to all the trouble to change the water pump, automatically change the thermostat. I would start there before pulling the rad. I assume the cooling fan is working OK? Keep us posted.

Helpful info:


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post #11 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the ideas Brad. And the videos. A friend told me today about testing the thermostat. So I'll do that as soon and the hurricane wannabe moves out of Louisiana next week.
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-12-2019, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidjc View Post
Thanks for the ideas Brad. And the videos. A friend told me today about testing the thermostat. So I'll do that as soon and the hurricane wannabe moves out of Louisiana next week.
No problem. I hope & pray the storm passes everyone by. Bee Safe..........and stay dry.
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-16-2019, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Well, Barry wasn't nearly as bad as predicted. Prayer works.
Ok, on the the Liberty, . . . I went to o'rielly's today for a thermostat. Salesman had experience with Jeep SUVs and and talked me into trying a new radiator cap first. Said they were notorious for bad gaskets after aging. Could not pressurize.
I got home and looked closer at mine and what do you know, there was a 1" piece broken off the smaller gasket. Put the new cap on and hit the road. AC wide open, 15 mile run down country roads, Interstate (75mph) and stop and go city streets. Temp gauge hung right where it should, and when I got home, I checked bottom hose and it was hot now. Was cool before when top was hot. So, i'm calling it done now and returning the thermostat. Hopefully the jeep over heating is cured.
Now on to dash lights codes . . . abs, esp/bas and traction control.
Thanks for all the pointers.
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-18-2019, 01:47 PM
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The latest from Scotty on cooling systems. Good general information:

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