What do I need to upgrade for a 4.5 inch lift? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 03-12-2020, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
Leongorani
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What do I need to upgrade for a 4.5 inch lift?

I have a 2019 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited, not a Rubicon. I am not sure what lift I want to commit to. I really want to do a 4.5 inch lift. I will most likely order the Teraflex 4.5 Inch Sport S/T3 Suspension Lift Kit w/ Falcon 3.3 Shocks:, (https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraf...s-1514033.html)
And I will also be getting the adjustable control arms (https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraf...t-1416510.html) along with an adjustable track bar and steering stabilizer. If I get all of those components, is there anything else that I would need to upgrade to make the 4.5 inch lift run smooth? I heard I might have to upgrade the driveshaft? Is that necessary for this size lift? Can someone please explain if I really need to for this size lift. Also what else would I have to buy for this size lift? longer brake lines, or other small components?

I really appreciate the help, I want to build it right the first time so that I can later upgrade axels and get larger tires.

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post #2 of 4 Old 03-13-2020, 08:27 AM
222Doc
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with out looking i thought you have asked this before?

yes you will absolutely need a front drive line. Rear on a 4 door might depend on how long the shocks are. One would have to do a droop test during install. See how far from bind it is.

I am not sure on Jls as some design changes have been done availability of a flip kit?. But I know on a Jk steering at 4.5 tends to get vague/loose. Do to the drag link being to steep and far off the roll center. On a Jk the best option is the drag link flip and that needs a raised front axle side track bar mount. One issue i just had after 8 years off hard use on 37s. the front axle track bar mount ripped off taking the raised trackbar mount with it a bolt on. since these raise the mount UP 3" this added leverage and the 1/8 thin factory mount sheared off. So i bought the Artic raised front track bar mount that is made from 1/4 steel and it is a weld on. I do my own welding as well. so that was only a 60$ repair. but you need to remove the axle to get to this easy. well for me i did as i hate welding in odd places and angles.

I run a 4-4.5 lift on my Jk rubicon and when i did not have the flip kit it was very vague and way to touchy. After the flip it was night and day. I do all my own work as well.

If you latter change out to bigger axles say like D60s and say 40s you will be loosing some of the stuff you paid for now. But you are at the point too where it wont be a good street jeep and most end up on a trailer. 40s you need to go full width too or the jeep wont do all that well on or off. huge hit on MPG.

Huge tire no lockers wont get you far at all.

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post #3 of 4 Old 03-13-2020, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
Leongorani
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
with out looking i thought you have asked this before?

yes you will absolutely need a front drive line. Rear on a 4 door might depend on how long the shocks are. One would have to do a droop test during install. See how far from bind it is.

I am not sure on Jls as some design changes have been done availability of a flip kit?. But I know on a Jk steering at 4.5 tends to get vague/loose. Do to the drag link being to steep and far off the roll center. On a Jk the best option is the drag link flip and that needs a raised front axle side track bar mount. One issue i just had after 8 years off hard use on 37s. the front axle track bar mount ripped off taking the raised trackbar mount with it a bolt on. since these raise the mount UP 3" this added leverage and the 1/8 thin factory mount sheared off. So i bought the Artic raised front track bar mount that is made from 1/4 steel and it is a weld on. I do my own welding as well. so that was only a 60$ repair. but you need to remove the axle to get to this easy. well for me i did as i hate welding in odd places and angles.

I run a 4-4.5 lift on my Jk rubicon and when i did not have the flip kit it was very vague and way to touchy. After the flip it was night and day. I do all my own work as well.

If you latter change out to bigger axles say like D60s and say 40s you will be loosing some of the stuff you paid for now. But you are at the point too where it wont be a good street jeep and most end up on a trailer. 40s you need to go full width too or the jeep wont do all that well on or off. huge hit on MPG.

Huge tire no lockers wont get you far at all.
So your saying that it won't be a good idea to do that tall of a lift? If I do the lift, control arms, and drive shaft, will it be okay for everyday driving? I will have to ask a shop what else I need to add to make it okay. Yes I did ask this before but I didn't get the answers I needed.
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post #4 of 4 Old 03-13-2020, 09:32 AM
222Doc
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I think perhaps you did not get the answer you WANTED. See this a lot. If its for looks IE; i want it to look bad a$$ for DD, well that has a huge cost. As well since you are going to pay to have all this done lift, axles, maybe lockers and on and on. That cost will be about as much as the jeep cost. People do this and many end up selling as they dont like the way it drives after.

lifts under at 2.5 or less are going to have the least cost. Off road the 4"+ will do best. Now i know people will decent on this but fact is a JK to gain belly you have only two options with out breaking the bank. Tires and lift. Jks are SUPER<<<<expensive to do a belly up. That is why you will see no one here with one, well might one or two. but i have to date never read of one here. It is so involved, expensive and not a bolt on job that the cost will be more then the jeep to complete.

For a DD on JL 2-2.5" and 35s will be cool enough for a DD. wont kill the power to much? no idea what gears you have on trans. the new autos do very well making up for lack of gears, at he cost of the over drive but with 8 gears its moot.

As for shops. They tend to do what they want. Not like they are going to listen to people on the net. They may not even really know much about jeeps and the oddities of them. They do know you have the money and that is what it is all about.

Plan what are doing well. it will save you from redoing things latter. Like is the just a 4 door suv for daily driving? Here is another thing too. I hear this all the time. I only drive 10% off road. That in most cases is a exaggeration, by a lot. It tends to be more like 2% or less. example of a DD. They say put on 20k a year. at 10% that is 2,000 miles of trails. That would be like say running the Rubicon trails 100 times in a year. Considering that it takes about 3 days. that would mean they are off road near 90% of the year. I want their job.......

4.5 makes a very nice trail rig on 35 to say 37max. That can still do well on the street. But its a trade off. 4.5 lifts can handle very well. People that ride in mine are very surprised on how well it handles and smooth it is. On a 2 door its even way harder to do well at 4-4.5" of lift. So many changes I had to do. BUT i do trailer it too and its a 99% off road jeep. I drive trucks my self. a old f250 7.3 2x4. no lift, no big tires. Now the wife she has here toy a 03 Excursion 4x4 7.3 that has more money in that then my jeep by far, lifted, geared, built, tuned. Thing is a fun ride and still gets about 18mpg. not bad for 4 tons of American iron. Its like driving an air craft carrier. Me i still like my old truck.

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