Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit - Page 52 - JeepForum.com
 15Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #766 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 04:09 PM
Yucca-man
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brighton
Posts: 1,026
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
Maybe if people mostly want to use the trailer for cargo, it's more important to have the floor at the same level as the tailgate opening vs. if the trailer is mostly used for camping, with a trailer-top tent, the tailgate opening vs. floor isn't so important?
Thanks for the quick reply. I look at the two the same. Whether I'm camping or moving stuff, I consider it 'cargo'.

Boxes and furniture moved to a new place? Cargo. Slide it off the back.
Camping with a rooftop tent and random crap stuffed in the back of the trailer? It's cargo. Don't waste the energy lifting it in and out - slide it.

I'm more than willing to sleep in the 8' trailer, and the last thing I want to do when I'm awakened by a middle-of-the-night call of nature is to remember I have to life my foot over the threshold when getting out...

Edited to add:
For that matter, anything that requires I step inside the trailer would mean having to step over the threshold to get out - that's not natural, and if I'm carrying anything it could become a dangerous move.

Yucca-man is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #767 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 04:13 PM
mdm
Farm Wheeler
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Elkmont
Posts: 10,046
I agree with wanting to have the floor at the same level as the tailgate opening. It should be a "flat" surface extending from the interior space of the trailer across the tailgate.

Keep in mind that free advice can frequently be worth less than you pay for it.
mdm is offline  
post #768 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 04:46 PM
87warrior
Registered User
 
87warrior's Avatar
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Junction City
Posts: 1,607
Keep the floor on the same plane as the bottom of the tailgate. The extra 3" of space would become a pain when pulling something heavy out of the back, like a cooler. I already get irritated with the slight lip and hooks in the back of my TJ.

How much extra would I spend on this? I dont know, it depends on the base price.

03
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
(Rubicon build)
92
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
(92/99 Comanche Project)
86
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
(Heavy Four)
87warrior is offline  
 
post #769 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 05:13 PM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
It would still look the same from the outside, and the tailgate opening would still be the standard Jeep size, accepting factory Jeep CJ or Wrangler tailgates. The difference would be inside, where the floor would be lower than the tailgate opening. You could still sit on the tailgate. Yes, you'd have to lift your cargo over the threshold rather than sliding it out.

Maybe if people mostly want to use the trailer for cargo, it's more important to have the floor at the same level as the tailgate opening vs. if the trailer is mostly used for camping, with a trailer-top tent, the tailgate opening vs. floor isn't so important?

I'm just trying to get as much input for this company as possible, I know they're on a relatively fast track to come to some conclusions about this.
This is likely an option that is the least favorable from your proof of concept idea, but my preference would be to redo the end panel for the tailgate so there was NO threshhold to lift stuff over and the floor was at the bottom of the sides.

I'd like to see a panel for the bottom of the tailgate molded to the tailgate to extend it lower and set it up for a 2" wide piano hinge that you could screw down to the inner floor.

There would be a line molded in to the two joined pieces so it mimics the same look you have now if that is important.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
post #770 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
jscherb
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Elmira, NY
Posts: 11,832
Notice anything different about today's photo of the trailer?



It's got a NY plate on it now. I did the registration and inspection today, and took it for its maiden voyage. Runs just fine.

Tomorrow I plan to prep molds to make what I'm proposing be the tailgate for the production version of the trailer kit. Stay tuned...

"Whether you think you can do something or you think you can't, you are right" - Henry Ford
jscherb is offline  
post #771 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 08:12 PM
jbjorgen
Member
 
jbjorgen's Avatar
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guadalajara, Mexico
Posts: 400
Garage
I'm for keeping the flanges and keeping the tailgate level with the floor. I own a civilian m416 with a gate and I use it constantly for pushing stuff in and out over the gate. Wouldn't work if it wasn't level. Would be worth at least $100 extra.
jbjorgen is offline  
post #772 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
jscherb
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Elmira, NY
Posts: 11,832
Thanks everyone for the input on the floor level question.

My take on your input is that keeping the floor level with the tailgate opening is more important than saving a few dollars on the cost of the kit.

"Whether you think you can do something or you think you can't, you are right" - Henry Ford
jscherb is offline  
post #773 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 08:41 PM
Yucca-man
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brighton
Posts: 1,026
Garage
Yup.
Yucca-man is offline  
post #774 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 08:46 PM
azxj91
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Tucson
Posts: 23
I vote for the floor at the same level as the tailgate / tailgate opening. Mostly for ease of loading/ unloading, allowing things to slide in and out. It also seems like a 3" lip would get beat on pretty hard with loads being rested there and bumping it during loading.
azxj91 is offline  
post #775 of 4303 Old 12-13-2011, 10:30 PM
Skerr
Registered User
 
Skerr's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs
Posts: 10,150
Trailer looks really good Jeff. I really like the tail lights. As far as the tailgate level... I can understand if you are trying to move a dresser or something big, but I can for sure lift my cooler or sleeping bags. So sliding is of little concern. The trailer is so low I can't see where it should be a problem.

Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
Skerr is offline  
post #776 of 4303 Old 12-14-2011, 07:38 AM
SkippyPB13
Registered User
 
SkippyPB13's Avatar
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Vernon
Posts: 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherb
Thanks everyone for the input on the floor level question.

My take on your input is that keeping the floor level with the tailgate opening is more important than saving a few dollars on the cost of the kit.
Yup I say re design the rear panel or a new tailgate with the molded in lines as stated earlier.

Ask about my Custom Paracord Jeep Stuff!!
Door straps, rollbar grab handles, bracelets.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
SkippyPB13 is offline  
post #777 of 4303 Old 12-14-2011, 08:02 AM
Jeepinjas
Registered User
1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 96
I would worry about the long term effects on the ridge along the bottom of the tailgate if the bottom was not flush. Sliding things on that portion will eventually start to take chips off it and wear it down. I realize everyone says they can just lift items in and out, but eventually they may put a top on it and end up sliding totes in and out and that will certainly put some extra stress on that piece.

If everyone was going to just lift the items in and out then why the need for the tailgate at all? I know you are trying to limit the options, but you could make a really cheap version with no tailgate and the dropped floor and then a version with the tailgate and raised floor. My personal opinion is that a tailgate on something that small is not needed except for the cool factor unless you are going to place a permanent top on it that limits your access to the tub. As mentioned, M416's come without a tailgate and worked well for the military and they are bigger than these and I am sure where loaded with some fairly heavy items.
Jeepinjas is offline  
post #778 of 4303 Old 12-14-2011, 08:35 AM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 33,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepinjas View Post
As mentioned, M416's come without a tailgate and worked well for the military and they are bigger than these and I am sure where loaded with some fairly heavy items.
Yes, they do come without tail gates. Adding one is also about the most common modification done to them by civilians.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
post #779 of 4303 Old 12-14-2011, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
jscherb
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Elmira, NY
Posts: 11,832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepinjas View Post
If everyone was going to just lift the items in and out then why the need for the tailgate at all? I know you are trying to limit the options, but you could make a really cheap version with no tailgate and the dropped floor and then a version with the tailgate and raised floor. My personal opinion is that a tailgate on something that small is not needed except for the cool factor unless you are going to place a permanent top on it that limits your access to the tub. As mentioned, M416's come without a tailgate and worked well for the military and they are bigger than these and I am sure where loaded with some fairly heavy items.
I think one of the kit options would be to have two solid end panels, no tailgate opening. This could be the least expensive version of the "Jeep width" kit, and that's the nice thing about the modular design, the end panels are interchangeable, so you could have two solid panels, a solid and a tailgate, or two tailgate panels, whatever suited your needs.

Based on all the feedback, I think all "standard sized" panels (meaning the ones that match the width of the Jeep tub) would have the floor flange so the floor would be at the same level as the tailgate opening.

A smaller tub, designed to fit between the wheel wells of the smallest HF trailer, would not have a tailgate or the floor flanges, and the floor would be at the bottom of the side panels, not raised. This tub would be about 40" wide and 48" long. It would be derived from the normal sized tub, and have the same look, but would have narrowed end panels and no inner fenders. It would consist of 4 parts - 2 identical ends, two identical sides and would look roughly like this:



(In the drawing above I haven't taken the time to draw in the profile of the top edge of the tub, which would have the angled edge the same as the Jeep tub, so this small tub would still have the same look as the larger tubs).

"Whether you think you can do something or you think you can't, you are right" - Henry Ford
jscherb is offline  
post #780 of 4303 Old 12-14-2011, 09:11 AM
Bojon
Registered User
 
Bojon's Avatar
1981 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Canon City
Posts: 465
I think that's a great idea Jeff . Creates a cheap option that don't need the frills, and a more expensive option for those that require/want a functional tailgate. I didn't chime in earlier but I would be more than willing to pay more for the tailgate to be level with the floor.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Jered
Bojon is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
Need new tailgate: Fiberglass or 'Jeep'? JeeperDon YJ Wrangler Technical Forum 3 01-29-2012 10:18 AM
Bolt on trailer hitch receiver? Scottsdale Jack TJ Wrangler Technical Forum 22 06-30-2010 08:25 PM
Those of you that trailer your Jeep. Jeeeeeeeeeeeeep YJ Wrangler Technical Forum 15 02-04-2010 08:47 PM
trailer hitch receiver bolt removal???? vosevichs TJ Wrangler Technical Forum 3 01-20-2010 07:01 AM
Bolt Size for Mopar JK trailer Hitch Fish Slayer JK Wrangler Technical Forum 13 06-08-2008 12:15 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome