Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit - Page 236 - JeepForum.com
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post #3526 of 4311 Old 04-01-2014, 05:13 PM
SSRx7
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Hey Jeff, I was just thinking that you could build a front storage box with your Trail top prices... To match the rest of the trail top.

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post #3527 of 4311 Old 04-01-2014, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Jeff, I was just thinking that you could build a front storage box with your Trail top prices... To match the rest of the trail top.
Yes, you definitely could do that, a storage box would be easy to build with TrailTop parts.

If you're building on a Jeep tub like I'm doing for the proof-of-concept build, of course the ultimate matching storage box would be made from a combination of Dinoot parts and TrailTop parts ...


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post #3528 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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I haven't decided yet if I'm going to support the hatch in the open position with gas struts or a more simple prop rod of some sort. For now in the workshop I'm using a stick:



Since this is a proof-of-concept build, I'm thinking I should do gas struts to prove how they would work with the TrailTop parts, but I'd welcome any input you guys have on hatch supports.

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post #3529 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 06:08 AM
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Gas struts would be nice but I'd think a prop rod would be just fine.

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post #3530 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 06:29 AM
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Since this is a proof-of-concept build, I'm thinking I should do gas struts to prove how they would work with the TrailTop parts, but I'd welcome any input you guys have on hatch supports.
I'd use gas struts, personally; it's a more finished, clean appearance and the struts offer a bit of lift assistance.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #3531 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 07:17 AM
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I'd use gas struts for a more finished look but more importantly, if anyone else is as clumsy as I am I'd be bumping into the prop when entering and leaving.

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post #3532 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 07:54 AM
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I like the factory supports on my cj hard top. They are springs inside metal tubes and very strong. Only problem would be where to get them for a build.
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post #3533 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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I like the factory supports on my cj hard top. They are springs inside metal tubes and very strong. Only problem would be where to get them for a build.
I've got a pair of those old CJ hardtop ones here, but it's probably not a good idea to use them on the proof-of-concept because as you said, where would anyone get ones like them?

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post #3534 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 08:54 AM
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The hydraulic ones would be my next choice but are there any out there that don't fail after a while?

Of course you could also use the electric ones that are so popular these days but those would be more costly and complicated to install. But it is an option.
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post #3535 of 4311 Old 04-02-2014, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Here's a quick drawing showing how struts would mount. It's pretty straightforward:


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post #3536 of 4311 Old 04-03-2014, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday I went to my local U-Pull junkyard to shop for some gas struts for the hatch. My SWAG engineering suggested I would find appropriate struts on a full-size SUV with a separate tailgate and lift glass in the back. I figured a lift glass with a metal frame would probably weigh just about as much as the hatch and have about as much leverage. I grabbed a pair of struts from a '95 Chevy Tahoe and they seem just about right. Here they are clamped in place as a test:



Initial tests show that these have just about the right force.

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post #3537 of 4311 Old 04-03-2014, 09:03 AM
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Hey Jeff, how well are the ends going to clear the edge in that position? I would think that the lower end would be mounted onboard of the frame and the upper ends mounted on or onboard of the hatch rails so the hatch doesn't close on it... unless this picture was to demonstrate them holding the hatch up?

Also when you mount them, would you attach them while the hatch is in the closed position? Reason being that shorter strut will not allow the hatch to open as far. You will need to have longer struts I think depending on how far You want to open it.

I just ask out of curiosity.
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post #3538 of 4311 Old 04-03-2014, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Jeff, how well are the ends going to clear the edge in that position? I would think that the lower end would be mounted onboard of the frame and the upper ends mounted on or onboard of the hatch rails so the hatch doesn't close on it... unless this picture was to demonstrate them holding the hatch up?

Also when you mount them, would you attach them while the hatch is in the closed position? Reason being that shorter strut will not allow the hatch to open as far. You will need to have longer struts I think depending on how far You want to open it.

I just ask out of curiosity.
Bill,

The struts will clear everything just fine; they'll bolt to the side of the curved hatch rib and to a bracket on the underside of the weatherstrip surface of the curved TrailTop frame, just like I showed a couple of posts ago when I drew struts on a photo to show how they'll mount. The most recent photo was taken when I was testing to see if they had the proper strength to support the hatch, and how much force it would take to start to close the hatch. The tests were passed just fine, these struts have appropriate force for this application.

Stay tuned, I'm working on an explanation and drawing showing how I choose a correct length and strength of struts, and how I pick the attachment points.

But don't worry, this length strut will be fine.

Jeff

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post #3539 of 4311 Old 04-03-2014, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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The hydraulic ones would be my next choice but are there any out there that don't fail after a while?
I'm pretty sure most auto manufacturers designate gas struts as "wear items", which puts them in the same category as brakes, tires, etc. They're inexpensive to replace (well, maybe not if you buy OEM ones from the dealer ). The ones I picked up yesterday were from a '95 Chevy Tahoe, I don't know if they were the original ones on the Tahoe or if they had been replaced at some point in the truck's life, but they work fine. And if they fail, it won't be expensive or difficult to replace them in the future.

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post #3540 of 4311 Old 04-03-2014, 09:26 AM
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Cool. I don't ever question you, just ask in case someone else is as curious as I am
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