Undercarrage restore - Chassis Saver vs Rustoleum - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 12-23-2018, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
Patrick181
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Undercarrage restore - Chassis Saver vs Rustoleum

Thread: A Teen at Work! Jeep WK Build, page 5 (I cant post links yet)

Any evidence or feedback on these high end rust paints vs the rust oleum rattle cans? I want to clean up the rusty undercarriage of my WK. Im not 100% sure a decent on-vehicle sand blast/wire brush and some spray paint is just as effective considering cost and time.


Thanks

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post #2 of 16 Old 12-24-2018, 07:15 AM
gutthans
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Eastwood has a decent video or two on a TJ frame on refurbish (with their products of course).

Personally, having done an frame-on sandblast...I wouldn't. You will likely contaminate things you don't mean to.

The most challenging part of a refurbish will be the inside of the frame. Get a good product (NOT Rustoleum) and method to chemically encapsulate and prevent rust there first. Those products run and can ruin your outside paint work.

Now have a go with a good wire brush and/or flapper-disc, and solvent cleaner. The quality and life of your selected finish will mostly depend on your prep.

Oil-based Rustoleum primer (NOT water-based) is decent stuff, and applied over proper prep even if rattle-canned, will last years and years with touch-up for dings. However, the acrylic, lacquer, and enamel top coats aren't long-term UV stable and will fade, degrade, oxidize, and need re-coating periodically to maintain the barrier to rust-through.

POR-15 is made for application OVER rust, which is very useful for areas you can't clean well. It will bond to bare metals as well as rust, but I think specific chassis paints do better on clean metal as they usually call for a primer/topcoat.

There are other formulations, but I guess justifying the expense would depend on how long you plan to keep the vehicle, and how much trouble you mean to go to. I had one frame-off done with POR-15 and it still looked new after 14 years. My rattle-can frame paints wore out every few seasons of outdoor use. I hot zinc-coated my latest frame, used Eastwood Amber on the inside, and went over the outer zinc with GM chassis black. But I plan on willing this one to my kids in 20-25 years...
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-23-2019, 10:54 AM
Trootncsse
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Ive used rattlecan rustolem and didnt last well. The rustollrn in qt can is oil based and lasts longer. However need spray gun to apply. That said, here in Michigan you still need to touch up every year. As far as inside frame ive used motor oil or trans fluid. It stops rust but is messy. Used on my truck o can have a rust free vehicle for 15+ years.

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post #4 of 16 Old 01-29-2019, 01:37 AM
Ralph77
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As part of my "Rust Retardation Program" I am big on POR 15. On rusty metal it works great even with minimal prep as per the instructions.
I feel that prep is much more important on the cleaner metal. I have used it on a bunch of cleaner metal. Skid plates, tow hooks and brakets, the metal supports under my factory running boards, and the like. I wire wheeled it, cleaned with Purple Power, and prepped with their Metal Prep for longer then the instructions say. Jury is still out on the cleaner metal things I have done but at the moment thinking so far so good. Thinking for cleaner metal there are probably better choices though.
I tried the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating for inside the uni-body. Have no idea if it helped.
Last is Fluid Film. I power wash under the Jeep and inside the uni-body in October for the winter. They use that crap on the roads where I live.
Then I go to town with the Fluid Film. Inside the uni-body and underneath. Every April I wash it off. That is when I will take a look at all the cleaner metal that I have POR 15'ed to see how well it has held up.
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-04-2019, 06:13 PM
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Whatever you use I recomend putting fluid film over the top of it, like if you fix the rust the use por15 or ristoleum.

It makes a really nice barrier to the salt, here is my comparison of fluid film

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4NCUJoa0lVs


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post #6 of 16 Old 02-05-2019, 02:25 AM
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Originally Posted by PwnCall View Post
Whatever you use I recomend putting fluid film over the top of it, like if you fix the rust the use por15 or ristoleum.

It makes a really nice barrier to the salt, here is my comparison of fluid film

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4NCUJoa0lVs
Another thing about Fluid Film is that it appears to "condition" metal. When I first bought my '00 XJ and was playing with the POR 15 I noticed that my steering knuckles and other parts on my front diff were a rust red. Nothing crazy. It was October at that time and was the first year I was going to try Fluid Film. Well figured come April I would wash off the Fluid Film and hit the steering knuckles and whatnot with some POR 15. But when I power washed off all the Fluid Film I noticed that those parts were now a more mud brown. I never did POR 15 them.
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post #7 of 16 Old 04-03-2019, 09:57 PM
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I'm getting ready to clean up the frame on my CJ5 and undercoat the tub. Was thinking about bedliner for the undercoating of the tub but I have mixed feelings about it. I have no idea what to do with the frame. It's in great shape and I'd like to keep it that way. What sort of prep would you do to the inside of the frame and how should it be done?
Thanks
Shawn

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post #8 of 16 Old 04-07-2019, 01:39 PM
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I would NOT use bedliner or any rubberized product on the underside of a vehicle. It will allow moisture to travel under the coating anywhere there is a void letting the water/icemelt/salt to sit there causing more damage. paint or POR or Eastwood coatings will work much better.

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post #9 of 16 Old 04-14-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
Patrick181
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Great responses, thank you for tips. I think I’ll just wire brush the loose rust, hit it with some rust oleum semi gloss and fluid film it after the paint cures. If I get a year or two out of that effort I’ll be happy.
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post #10 of 16 Old 05-16-2019, 07:45 PM
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To correct way to stop rust is to cut off the oxygen and the moisture. POR 15, chassis saver and KBS rust seal seal out the moisture but not the oxygen. The only color that cuts off oxygen is the silver. In the early seventies Mo Bay chemical designed primer for bridges that only came in one color silver. The resin which was moisture activated blocked any moisture and he aluminum flake would cut off the oxygen. This system is called the 3 coat polyurethane system. 2 coats of the silver primer one coat of color when the silver arrived at the automotive market they said: they don't want silver they want black . So today people put just the black on and year down the road. It's peeling Off and rusting. This coating system does 14,000 hours of saltSpray 3 coats DP 40 epoxy with 7 coats of paint over it 5 color 2 clear does about 500. So if you going to combat rust put down 2 coats of silver and one coat of color
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post #11 of 16 Old 05-16-2019, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kd7oir View Post
I'm getting ready to clean up the frame on my CJ5 and undercoat the tub. Was thinking about bedliner for the undercoating of the tub but I have mixed feelings about it. I have no idea what to do with the frame. It's in great shape and I'd like to keep it that way. What sort of prep would you do to the inside of the frame and how should it be done?
Thanks
Shawn
1st thing you do is the degrease it. Go to harbor freight and pick up 2 engine cleaning guns their about 9 bucks piece. Blowout the inner chassis and then spray in a rust remover or Rust converter. Let that dry. Then you can spray in a rust preventative primer and then a topcoat. Use wire wheels grinders on the floors and chassis apply your rust remover then year topcoat these engine cleaning guns are perfect for spraying paints and chemicals and all your hard-to-reach places.Be sure to wear eye protection. And if you play with my paints make damn sure you put on rubber gloves before you open the can
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-18-2019, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PwnCall View Post
Whatever you use I recomend putting fluid film over the top of it, like if you fix the rust the use por15 or ristoleum.

It makes a really nice barrier to the salt, here is my comparison of fluid film

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4NCUJoa0lVs
Here's another video on YouTube you might find interesting. It's called POR 15 KBS Chassis saver SPI epoxy and Mastercoat salt fog test.Who went the furthest?

I don't know how to post videos So you will have to type it I guess.
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-20-2019, 09:09 PM
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I'm a fan of rust kutter and spray paint for this kind of thing...
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...z?cm_vc=-10005

Sprays on like water and works some kind of chemical magic on the rust. Then just fog it all black with spray paint.

NOTHING is going to last forever, especially for those of us in the rust belt. So I just keep a couple cans of flat black on hand, and touch it up now and then.

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post #14 of 16 Old 07-20-2019, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirbot View Post
I'm a fan of rust kutter and spray paint for this kind of thing...
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...z?cm_vc=-10005

Sprays on like water and works some kind of chemical magic on the rust. Then just fog it all black with spray paint.

NOTHING is going to last forever, especially for those of us in the rust belt. So I just keep a couple cans of flat black on hand, and touch it up now and then.
The "chemical magic" is phosphoric acid mostly. Amazing what can be learned from a safety data sheet: Rust Kutter SDS

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post #15 of 16 Old Yesterday, 08:21 PM
pat master
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick181 View Post
Thread: A Teen at Work! Jeep WK Build, page 5 (I cant post links yet)

Any evidence or feedback on these high end rust paints vs the rust oleum rattle cans? I want to clean up the rusty undercarriage of my WK. Im not 100% sure a decent on-vehicle sand blast/wire brush and some spray paint is just as effective considering cost and time.


Thanks
There is a YouTube video The title is POR 15 KBS Chassis saver SPI epoxy Mastercoat salt fog video. Who went the furthest. Rusoleum was the first to fail.
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