Rust Removal Techniques - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-23-2018, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
cpdutch
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Rust Removal Techniques

Opinions needed;
1) Chemical (Jellies, liquids, etc) versus

2) Mechanical (abrasion such as wire brush or tumblers)


"One-touch" paints that promise to seal the rust - anyone believe this?

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post #2 of 20 Old 07-23-2018, 09:23 AM
PlainoldCheroke
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All of the above.... is the correct answer.
In our 1995 XJ we've had to cut out floors, patch in sheet metal, then putty and paint.
I personally prefer to sand, prime, then prime again before putting a finish coat of some sort of flat black paint on the underside.

The manganese phosphate ( I think), rust neutralizer compound is good to use on frame and parts with intermediate or minor rust.... it turns white and from our experience gives a clean coating that primer will adhere to. This seems to work well when attacking a frame and body with moderate rust. We try hard to keep our sheet metal intact but sometimes the equipment still runs better than it looks. It's not always easy to control rust, but with the right materials and techniques you can double the life of these bodies, I think ! Good luck.
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post #3 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 06:18 PM
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It may help to describe your issue in better detail, Pics would be even better! Oh, And you forgot #3 media blasting!
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post #4 of 20 Old 09-02-2018, 07:07 PM
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Mechanical abrasion in some form is required for pitted or crusty rust. I prefer sand blasting. Light surface rust can be chemically removed. Rust "converters" or magic rust sealant goops are wasted money. POR-15 and similar does work, but you need to carefully follow the preparation directions completely.

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post #5 of 20 Old 09-03-2018, 04:48 PM
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I as well would use/do blasting over anything else. waist time with wire wheels on frames and such or just about anything else. So much faster, easy. wire wheeling is so slow tends to burnesh. Treatments is band aid. after the metal blasted you do what ever metal work you need including sanding it down. I use a pre DTM prep. Tends to blue steel. Shoot it with DTM primer epoxy is best. Most are No sand so you have a open time to respray and continue with a build up or maybe its ready for color.

Though with sand you can if the system has enough force heat warp panels. Small sand suckers lower flow not so much, bit slower but works well. frames trouble is the inside. If you are in a big city i bet you could even get a frame dipped. Might not get back all that you sent if its a jeep.

The main issue after is getting all the sand out, gets in places. I would not sand blast inside a interior of any vehicle that is not a complete frame off or gutted. You never want to breath silica dust. does leave a frosty nice finish though, rust is gone. You have to still work the metal you dont want micro glass bits under the the pre treat before going to DTM.

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post #6 of 20 Old 09-19-2018, 08:05 PM
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Best option is not letting it rust in then first place with fluid film and the like. POR 15 is tricky stuff that requires a lot of prep work. If it's on the interior of the panels it's probably a lost cause since it will rust from the inside.

If you are interested in fluid film
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4NCUJoa0lVs


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post #7 of 20 Old 10-05-2018, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlainoldCheroke View Post
All of the above.... is the correct answer.
In our 1995 XJ we've had to cut out floors, patch in sheet metal, then putty and paint.
I personally prefer to sand, prime, then prime again before putting a finish coat of some sort of flat black paint on the underside.

The manganese phosphate ( I think), rust neutralizer compound is good to use on frame and parts with intermediate or minor rust.... it turns white and from our experience gives a clean coating that primer will adhere to. This seems to work well when attacking a frame and body with moderate rust. We try hard to keep our sheet metal intact but sometimes the equipment still runs better than it looks. It's not always easy to control rust, but with the right materials and techniques you can double the life of these bodies, I think ! Good luck.
^2 this would be good to try OP. I had a buddy who has had success with this technique
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post #8 of 20 Old 10-07-2018, 03:13 AM
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Option #4 - Electrolysis!
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-17-2019, 07:42 PM
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The most powerful primer in the world is part of the 3 coat polyurethane system. It's a moisture cured aluminum flake primer developed by the MoBay chemical in the early seventies. The resin blocks the moisture and the aluminum flake in multiple coats cuts off the oxygen. 2 coats of this primer any urethane topcoat will do 14,000 hours of salt spray. When its scratched the rust won't go beyond the scratch. This coating system was developed for bridges were sandblasting was prohibited by law. Bridges like the Pittsburgh Homestead high-level bridge with 3 coats, at the end of 14 years less than 5% corrosion. The bridge is a mile-long. When you do your frame, your tub, anywhere you had rust put 2 coats of silver then your chassis coating. Black moisture cured urethanes only block the moisture not the oxygen.They are also not sunlight stable I don't recommend it for a lifted Jeep. I've used this coating system on my classic cars for over 30 years now with great results
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post #10 of 20 Old 05-29-2019, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat master View Post
The most powerful primer in the world is part of the 3 coat polyurethane system. It's a moisture cured aluminum flake primer developed by the MoBay chemical in the early seventies. The resin blocks the moisture and the aluminum flake in multiple coats cuts off the oxygen. 2 coats of this primer any urethane topcoat will do 14,000 hours of salt spray. When its scratched the rust won't go beyond the scratch. This coating system was developed for bridges were sandblasting was prohibited by law. Bridges like the Pittsburgh Homestead high-level bridge with 3 coats, at the end of 14 years less than 5% corrosion. The bridge is a mile-long. When you do your frame, your tub, anywhere you had rust put 2 coats of silver then your chassis coating. Black moisture cured urethanes only block the moisture not the oxygen.They are also not sunlight stable I don't recommend it for a lifted Jeep. I've used this coating system on my classic cars for over 30 years now with great results
Name of product?


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post #11 of 20 Old 05-29-2019, 10:43 PM
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I freely admit that I am not an expert on this topic...but I can say what has worked for me which is naval jelly followed by a wire brush followed by sanding. I have never used the paint over/neutralization products.
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post #12 of 20 Old 05-30-2019, 04:30 AM
V8GCZJ
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What is suited for large projects like a bridge might not be suited for automotive use. I didn't research the particulars but did find this site...

https://www.epoxyproducts.com//
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-30-2019, 04:54 AM
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Rust Removal Techniques

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpdutch View Post
Opinions needed;
1) Chemical (Jellies, liquids, etc) versus

2) Mechanical (abrasion such as wire brush or tumblers)


"One-touch" paints that promise to seal the rust - anyone believe this?


I have had pretty good experiences with Hammerrite.

Not just on my cars, but also on stuff around the house.

As they promise on the label, if you give 2 coats or more it will easily last 8 years +

Their spray paints are “so so” but their brush on paints are excellent



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post #14 of 20 Old 05-30-2019, 05:39 AM
pat master
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Mule View Post
Name of product?
There are a couple of products, both Rust bullet and Mastercoat have the aluminum pigmented moisture cured primer. Mastercoat has the two component AG 111 New York City subway anti-graffiti formulation. As for industrial paints not working on automotive use it's done every day. Vintage cars Inc. in South Carolina primes every car that they do with this type of primer from Mastercoat to prevent comebacks. This aluminum based primer requires multiple coats a minimum of two to lock out the oxygen. Two component polyester type urethanes are one of the toughest urethane topcoats in existence.
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-31-2019, 07:47 AM
PlainoldCheroke
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Mobay Chemical company,, seems to be a Bayer subsidiary now, named Covantis. Not sure what brand name the various products use, though.

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