Painting Tips - redo patchy areas (no rust apparent)) - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-15-2021, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
tomaddy
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Painting Tips - redo patchy areas (no rust apparent))

Whats up u lovely jeep people. (jeeple)

Looking for tips for the best way to approach the touch up paint job i need to do.

Its one small area on the car. - see photos below.



My big questions are:
  • whether to take the body panels off?
  • How do i sort the clear coating on the bonnet? its flaking back and not sure what exactly this sheen is. Is it factory??
  • Can I use a couple small standard spray cans, colour matched ? (thinking quality)
  • What do I use for a clear top coating?
  • how much of the bonnet to do?
  • can i tape along a bend detail in the side panel above the decals and get an acceptable finish?

My current thoughts are
  • leave parts on
  • focus on smaller upper sections of side panel, maybe the whole bonnet
  • carefully sand with high grit (400)
  • tape well around edges
  • spray cans colour matched from lordco
  • finish clear coat (not sure what yet)
  • jobs a good un

anyways looking for top tips from the pros.
ive painted one car, a different one, many panels before. went ok, but was informed by lordco I didnt need a final coat but several spray coats looks matt compared to rest of car - obvious on close inspection. passable at a glance.

car is xj 1996

hit me up dudes,
thanks

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post #2 of 16 Old 06-15-2021, 11:33 PM
V8GCZJ
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This is a bonnet...

The thing above the engine is called a hood!
Looks like you have more issues than just paint. I see small dents and something on the front right side of the hood/header panel. Paint and clear coat are gone on the fender so you need to sand it down and start over.
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-16-2021, 06:29 AM
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the paint will need to be stripped. Its gone. To do it right.

How do plan to do this? brush, rattle cans, roller or we talking spraying it with a HVLP or cup gun? you have all the the tools? place to do it?

Paint is only as good as its base<prep is everything and is where most the labor is. Spraying it is the easier part if you have skills for spraying.

one can mask it all off( low end paint jobs do this like One day ect) better is to remove all that you can. Best is to do it during a complete tear down and rebuild. more so if its a color change.

I have done it both ways masked and just sprayed same color and a complete every bolt tear down, paint in parts and then assembled.


another thing about paint. Much easier to do a solid color no pearls, metalics etc... spraying sparkly paints you need to be good with mixing and how it goes down. or you get stripes and shadows. There is alot to know about temps and how that effects spraying. to cold they can craze, to hot and you get dry over spray orange peel< this can happen as well with to much material and of course the dreaded runs.....
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-16-2021, 06:45 AM
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Yep. When the clear starts peeling like that, the paint on that whole panel is shot. There is no repairing it, any attempt will just peel right back off in no time. Needs to be stripped to bare metal and completely re-painted.

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post #5 of 16 Old 06-17-2021, 04:47 AM
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Since the fender and hood have damage, start looking for color matching parts in better shape, or locate parts with good paint to be a solid base for your work. If you are on a budget, check out some YouTube Rustolem paint jobs.
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-17-2021, 05:49 AM
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Good answers already above.
Bottom line is no blending or touch up is going to either look right or work.
There is always going to be, at the very least, a height difference in the peeled areas and the areas where the clear is barely holding on for dear life there.
I've repaired dozens of vehicles with peeling clear. Worst case is the height difference and a complete delamination of the paint you try to put on (peeling right back off).
The correct way is to sand the whole panel down with a 120 grit and then 180, feathering back that clear until it finally does begin to bite and feather back. Expect it to keep peeling off for at least several inches back from where it currently stops.
Spray the whole thing in a quality high build urethane primer.
Block sand with 180 grit
Wipe down, prime and block sand again with 320 or 400. Blow/wipe down again.
If it is good, spray the base down, then clear. Or Single stage paint. In quality jobs you would actually fog the base over to adjacent panels (also sanded lightly as needed for adhesion) and clear all the panels affected completely again. This helps with not having the hood be 4 shades off from the edge of the fender, etc.
Quite honestly for a quality job on an older vehicle this would mean a respray of the whole vehicle.
If it is more of a trail rig and/or low budget is the concern, best of luck to either find panels in a junk yard the same color for cheap or sand it and do the best you can and live with the results..or leave it and drive it.
To do it right takes some money (more if you don't have the means or nerve to do it yourself).
To do it to where it looks some better but is not great is less money, but in the end everyone has to decide what they want vs. the cost.
It's why you see so many flat black and Raptor-lined rigs running around.
Sometimes the $2000-8000 respray job simply doesn't make financial sense vs. the value/condition/intended use of the vehicle.
Regardless, whatever you decide, I wish you luck!
A Further word of advice is that if you see it happening on the hood, it is just a matter of time before you see it on the roof and leading edges of the fenders. That clear is done-for. I'd heavily consider the options before making a decision on it, as you may be repeating the process again and again. In the end if it does get completely re-done, the painter will have to strip all of the stuff you have put on there in the meantime=even more cost than just to do a respray to begin with.
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-17-2021, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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if we are talking headwear styles of bonnets then see below...

there are a few dings on the 'hood' haha. Im thinking take those two panels off , sand down and try color match with rattle cans . while its off i can try sort the dings and chips. Any ideas how best to approach that too??
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-17-2021, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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okay guys thanks a lot some great advice generally!

latest plan is plan is to get a close match on colour and clear coating with test panel, remove both panels and approach that way. I will sand down thoroughly based on these comments.

the cars not of huge value but it is my daily car and have pride. I want to give it more potential resale value.

I know painting enough to tackle it, I have access to festool sander and enclosed garage to help do a good job.
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-17-2021, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kruzin View Post
Yep. When the clear starts peeling like that, the paint on that whole panel is shot. There is no repairing it, any attempt will just peel right back off in no time. Needs to be stripped to bare metal and completely re-painted.
query.... bare metal??
Every inch of paint gone?

so i cant do just enough that gets a super good key? sand rough grit all over until smooth then fine grit for a primer?
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-17-2021, 08:19 AM
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At least the areas where it's peeling (plus a couple inches) should go to bare metal. The color paint in that area is compromised and can't be relied on to allow the clear to adhere to it.
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-18-2021, 05:49 AM
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Yeah, it won't take long to get to metal there where it is just base. Factory primer and base coats are surprisingly thin once you get to sanding on them.
Down to metal there, feather it back a few inches down to metal, feather than on back to where the clear stops releasing, prime, etc.
Once you let that primer dry and start sanding it will be very apparent where any low spots are.
Agreed on OP's decision and desire to keep it as low impact/low cost as possible.
You will more than likely see a color/richness difference panel painting like that, but in the end it will be protected and look better, regardless.
The only recourse to tackle that is to scuff up the driver door and passenger fender, fog some of the new base color over into those panels, and clear all of them.
Either way, with proper prep you are saving the hood and fender from rust, which will start very soon if left alone.
Exposed Base just doesn't offer any weather protection at all, or UV protection.
I'd like to see the final outcome if you'd like to post up a picture or two.
And good luck!
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-19-2021, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
sand down and try color match with rattle cans

First you need to sand down and do the body work. Then primer/sand, Then you can finish paint. And don't expect a quality finish with rattle cans. Rattle cans can not compete with a spray gun nor can the paint inside it. This being your daily driver i wonder how you plan on doing all this. There are some manufactures that make epoxy primer(two part) in rattle cans and i believe SprayMax makes finish paint also. If i was going to do a rattle can paint job this is the way i would do it.
https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/technology/
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-04-2021, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yo guys.

An update on first panel I approached. see pics below

Finally got all paint matches in and a suitable clear coat.

Took off fender panel, taped off area at the black detailing strip. Convenient line to pull through. thoroughly sanded with various grits up to 320, removed all flakey clear, primed in grey, lightly sanded at 600, 3 medium passes with blue over 30 mins, 10 mins intervals. left for 30 mins. back over with clear coat in 3 light passes over 5-10 mins intervals.

Pretty happy overall. Enough to take the eye away. The blue is for sure coming out in a different shade. Maybe my grey primer was too dark and is tinting the blue a shade darker.

One question.... is this now ready for the outdoors now?? Do i need to wait a bit to let the paints truly cure????


Next panel is the hood. Still undecided exactly how to approach this. Considering a super light high grit sand to key the existing blue and peel the flakey clear coat. then only clear coating, no blue, so the colour is consistent but the coating is restored. Thoughts????
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-04-2021, 04:28 PM
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The only things I would add to the already given advice is use a guide coat on your 320/600 wet sandings using a soft backing pad/block. It will very easily show you any imperfections. I sand to 320, with 3 good base coats that is just fine.



Now that it is painted you can easily wet sand with 2000 and buff out to a perfectly flat paint surface. * be extremely careful near any edge. - when you are spraying make so to concentrate on all edges so that there will be enough paint in those areas.



In pictures 1 and 2 above you should paint the light blue ends of each panel. I would also recommend the small extra time to remove the fender guards. Such little time for so much better finish.


When you paint the hood mask the entire underside of it so that you dont get overspray on everything when you are spraying the edges.
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-05-2021, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
In pictures 1 and 2 above you should paint the light blue ends of each panel. I would also recommend the small extra time to remove the fender guards.
Exact same thing i noticed. Are you using rattle cans to paint this? You may want to clean up a bit, There is plenty of dirt there that can get blown into the paint.
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