First Paint Job - Finish kind of textured? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 45 Old 03-13-2012, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Foundrydude - you are the man. Thank you for your detailed response. I will go with a B/C paint.. same color. It is a bit more expense than the single stage.. but I have put a lot in to this Jeep and want it to look as nice as it can.

I have a few more questions.. do I sand the entire vehicle with say.. a 220 grit? Apply another few coats of my High Build 2k primer.. then 400 grit block sanding.. then the Base.. right? Also.. there are two options for clear coat – Urethane Speed Clear with Overall Hardener or Super Flow Polyurethane Clear with Hardener. Which one to order?

Thanks again for everyone’s help.. I should have came here before I started spraying anything!

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post #17 of 45 Old 03-13-2012, 05:46 PM
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How much of the single stage do you have left? if you have enough paint /hardener /temp right reducer just scuff good with red scotch brite wet .Rinse dry and scuff again with red scotch dry.clean/tack rag wipe with surface prep and shoot again..Trinty should have spec ratio to mix it with like 4-1-1 parts paint /reducer and hardener.call the guys at paint for cars ask for the best temp reducer for your painting situation. base coat clear isn't the going to be any better if the reducer isn't right .Single stage is easy as long as you mix proper and over lap spray pattern as specified. let it flash for the proper time between coats.Metallic is just unfriendly to color sanding leaving few options.
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post #18 of 45 Old 03-13-2012, 05:48 PM
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go to auto body101.com you will find all the answers there.excellent site trust me.
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post #19 of 45 Old 03-15-2012, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Update on my project.. I decided to sand down the paint coat and try again. It's taken me about 2 hours of sanding and I'm just under half way done! I've blown through so many sanding discs its not even funny. The "texture" goes all the way down the entire layer of paint. Learn from my mistake.. if something doesn't seem right with the way the paint is flowing.. don't spray the whole vehicle!!

I'm going to give the single stage AE one more shot this weekend. I learned a lot since last time.. hopefully it turns out better! Pics to come..
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post #20 of 45 Old 03-15-2012, 04:27 PM
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Sucks but live and learn right?

I did one panel for a test just in case, even letting it dry out the full week for a cure time to see how it looks. At least you will be a pro at painting by the time your done!

Plus to add, I THINK the clear coat will fill in some of the textured spots if they are not horribly bad. It seemed to work when I shot my panel but maybe some one can confirm.

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post #21 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys.. I just got done priming my Jeep after sanding it for a week. The primer is still doing the "texture" thing.. what am I doing wrong here? The 2k high build primer I'm using says that a reducer is not required. Really.. I just need to know why my paint is being sprayed on in big globs instead of a fine mist.
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post #22 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 05:57 PM
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If your using a HVLP Gun it probably didn't get cleaned well last time you used it.

Are you wiping it down with wax and dergresser remover as well as tacking before you paint?

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

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People are always grabbing the handles, clutching the seat, or stomping an imaginary brake peddle when we're out having fun.
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post #23 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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I take the gun apart after each use.. it is nice and clean. I also use a prep spray before I'm painting. I think the problem is that I don't fully understand how to adjust my gun. Namely the Fluid Adjustment... can you explain how to adjust this after you've taken the gun apart? Also.. what pressure do you usually put at the gun?
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post #24 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 06:51 PM
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Reduce your paint. You could of blocked your single stage flat and recoated it again with your color. Reprising just made yourself more work
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post #25 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 06:52 PM
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*repriming
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post #26 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 07:19 PM
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^ - What he said, you can sand it as long as the paint was in good condition. Just take it down flat.

I am spraying at 35 PSI, has been working out for me so far. If you are using a cheap Water / Air separator it bumps your pressure down A LOT. I just took mine out completely since my compressor doesn't put out oil or water is seems. And that's how I will spray the rest since it worked on my test panel great.

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

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post #27 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 08:23 PM
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I do body n paint for a living the problem ur having is with the clear not the paint with fresh clear u can wet sand the orange peel out with 1500 grit wet dry sand paper n buff it out with rubbing compound to bring tje shine back jhst dont leave the buffer in one spot to long causr u will burn threw the xlear
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post #28 of 45 Old 03-24-2012, 09:22 PM
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I sorta like the textured look on the older Jeep.
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post #29 of 45 Old 03-25-2012, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richardclarkjr View Post
I do body n paint for a living the problem ur having is with the clear not the paint with fresh clear u can wet sand the orange peel out with 1500 grit wet dry sand paper n buff it out with rubbing compound to bring tje shine back jhst dont leave the buffer in one spot to long causr u will burn threw the xlear

Yeah but he has too be REAL careful with the metallic flake.. Even with 1500 it's easy to take too much clear off.

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

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post #30 of 45 Old 03-25-2012, 06:24 AM
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He used single stage. No clear. Can't sand and buff the single stage....... Well you can but then you lose your UV protection
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