First Paint Job - Finish kind of textured? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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First Paint Job - Finish kind of textured?

Hey all-

Just got done painting my 76 CJ5. I used an Acrylic Enamel single stage paint from TCP Global. Restoration Shop brand. Anyway.. everything went pretty well, although – this being my first paint job.. I had the atomization setting a bit off on my HVLP gun. The first coat had larger “globs” of paint. After that I was able to fine tune the gun to spray a finer mist of paint for the next 2 coats.

Anyway.. not sure if it was that first coat of globby paint.. but the finished paint job has a sort of texture to it. It’s not nearly as extreme as a bed liner.. and it feels relatively smooth.. it just has a bit of a texture if you get what I’m saying.

Is this typical of Acrylic Enamel paint? I was reading the description and it said that AE is perfect for farm and implement applications.. which would fit my Jeeps usage. The finish is pleasing to the eye.. shiny.. etc. Just not “glass smooth” Is this the difference between AE and a Basecoat / clear?
Do I need to wetsand or anything?

Remember.. I don’t necessarily WANT a show car finish.. I kind of like the texture.. but am wondering if I need to do anything else – like sand and recoat.. or wetsand.

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post #2 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 10:35 AM
dreamin89jeeper
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I've been told that if you sand it with a really fine sand paper that should get rid of the Orange peel texture, and then buff it out and it should have that nice smooth shiny look.
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post #3 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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So wet sand it? 1000 grit? I'm kind of nervous to sand it!
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post #4 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 12:03 PM
Foundrydude
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It may just be semi bonded overspray which will buff off pretty easily.

What happened is usually caused by under-reduced paint or too much air pressure or holding the gun too far away. The paint was drying before it had a chance to flow out into a smooth layer.
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post #5 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 12:07 PM
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Yes wet sand with a very fine paper. The higher the grit number, the better your paint will look. I know some guys that use something like 5000 grit when wet sanding. If you do not want the orange peel look then wet sanding is necessary. I work at achevy dealership and all the new cars have the orange peel. Just remember to keep the sand paper wet and have a spray bottle in the other hand. Also, just like with buffing, you shouldnt wet sand on any body line creases because the paint is a lot thinner there and it takes very little to go through it, just stick with the flat surfaces and take your time
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post #6 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 12:28 PM
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1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

The XJ Rebuild-
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People are always grabbing the handles, clutching the seat, or stomping an imaginary brake peddle when we're out having fun.
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post #7 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Haha.. I knew it was only a matter of time before "pics or it didn't happen!"

Here is a shot that shows the color well: 2007 Jeep Green Metallic. (Sorry.. just snapped the pic.. the sun is almost down)



And Here is a good shot of the orange peel. Should I start with 1000 grit or do I have to sand with say a 400 and re shoot? This level of orange peel normal?

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post #8 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 07:21 PM
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looks like the enamel reducer wasn't right for the temp you were shooting the paint at.try wet sanding it with water in a spray bottle and gold scotch brite "its equal to about 1000 grit" ,soft flexible wont scar and burn the panel edges as easily as paper grit.If you wet sand with paper soak it in water before using it to soften it up. take it slow keep it wet. DISREGARD THIS THE PAINT IS A METALLIC I THINK IT WILL CREATE A UNEVEN FINISH IF YOU TRY TO SAND IT OUT
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post #9 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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I used an Acrylic Enamel with a Polyurethane Hardener. One thing you mentioned.. the reducer wasn't right for the temp.. the tech sheet said that I could add an optional reducer.. so I didn't use one. Is that why I have this texture?

It doesn't really look THAT bad in person.. but it definitely needs something. It's far from smooth. What are my options.. sand it down and re shoot using reducer this time? Maybe I should try some 1000 or 1500 grit to see how it looks?

Edit: Just saw that you can't wet sand a metallic.. so basically hit it with 400 and re shoot right?
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post #10 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 09:37 PM
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I think your options are live with it or repaint it. If I end up with more orange peel than i am happy with I usualy wet sand my clear with 600 until smoothed and top off with a coat of clear . It looks like you would be able to quickly level that with 400 then a 600 to hide any sanding marks , if you dont go down to primer, you can put a single coat on top and call it a day
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post #11 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 11:28 PM
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Live with it or repaint it or perhaps even clearcoat it.
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post #12 of 45 Old 03-12-2012, 11:57 PM
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I had kinda the same texture before I shot my clear, I just shot a test panel tonight with a metallic.

You should have added a 2-3 coats of clear, but now your window will be gone without scuffing the paint, which you can't do because it's metallic. I AM NO EXPERT, so I would look for other input as well on correction. To give you an example here is mine from tonight.

Got all mine from paintforcars.com It's Trinity 1945 brand and I am quite surprised how well it came out for being a cheap paint.

Sanded with red scotch brite pad and blown off with air.
Wiped down with wax and degreser remover.
Tacked down
3 coats of primer, 10-15 min in between dry time
Sanded with 400 Grit pretty lightly, and blown off with air.
Wiped with W&D Remover and Tacked down
3 coats of Single Stage, 10-15 min in between dry time
3 coats of Clear, 10-15 min in between dry time




1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

The XJ Rebuild-
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post #13 of 45 Old 03-13-2012, 08:33 AM
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Hybrid, you didn't reduce the paint at all? Fast reducer is for cold temperatures (like below 60). Regular reducer is in the room temperature range. Above that go to a slow reducer.

Next time you shoot, invest in a disposable viscosity cup. You'll dip it into the mixed paint and use a stopwatch to establish how long it takes to drain. It'll at least put you in the ballpark.

Properly reduced paint will spray much differently, you'll want to do a test panel to be sure you're not making a waterfall of runs.

good luck
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post #14 of 45 Old 03-13-2012, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your replies.. I did not use a reducer and I'd say that the temp in my garage was around 56-62 in that area. The paint was stored at 72 (in the house). I do have a "cool" reducer.. 60-70 degrees that I didn't use. Come to think of it, when I filtered the paint it did drain pretty slow. This being my first paint job.. wasn't sure what I needed to be looking out for.

I have no problem sanding the entire vehicle and trying again. I've been working on the body of this jeep for over a year now. I've sanded it probably 100 times. What grit should I use? 220? 400? I am half inclined to leave it the way it is.. but I haven't done the hood, tailgate, and windshield frame. I'm worried most of the jeep will have the orange peel and the hood will be "normal".

Is the purpose of the reducer to make the paint flow better... and lower temps make it flow thicker? After I'm done spraying I close the garage doors and crank up the heat. It drys at about 75-78 with the heater going full blast. Will this be OK with my "cool" reducer?
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post #15 of 45 Old 03-13-2012, 10:51 AM
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Not reduced at all? Wow, no wonder you were fighting gun settings. Properly reduced it's not much thicker than water and is going to require more attention to gun technique. Definitely shoot a test panel next time.

Painting 101- The gun shoots a series of droplets onto the surface. These droplets "flow out" before they dry, and when done correctly they flow out into a perfectly smooth surface. Texture in the paint indicates the droplets were getting thick and drying before they flowed out completely.

On the other hand, reducer is the enemy of painting technique. The thinner the paint is, the harder it is to avoid runs. The slower it dries, the more likely it is to sag ten minutes after you're done spraying.

So when you reduce paint, it's finding a balance between paint that runs like crazy, and paint that flows out to a smooth finished surface. The reason different speeds of reducers exist is because paint dries faster at 100 degrees than 60 degrees, so you're adjusting how fast the reducer evaporates to give the paint time to flow out.

I've sprayed unreduced enamel before on junky old trailers, etc. It sticks like glue and is really easy to spray. You're gonna have to do some significant adjustment to your technique next time around.

If you've got anything that needs painted, a metal shed, an old trailer, etc. Consider buying a gallon of rustoleum and thinning it down. It'll spray like your jeep paint for a fraction of the cost. Good practice.

If you do repaint, seriously consider a base/clear system. Because of the metallic you can't sand and buff out mistakes. But if the top coat is clear you can sand and buff. Kudos to you for doing what you're doing, but also acknowledge a single stage metallic is about the most difficult paint to spray and you're new to painting.

Half of what makes a "good painter" is knowing how to fix their mistakes. Your paint choice is unforgiving in that regard.

BTW I really like the color. It's gonna look great when you're done
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