Engine Bay Parts Painting CJ7 - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-25-2020, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
SeaDog01712
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Engine Bay Parts Painting CJ7

Hello everyone,

I am currently refinishing brackets and components out of my CJ7's engine bay such as the power steering pump brackets, power steering pump, etc. For these brackets and other parts that are connected to the block but are not part of it, do I need to use high temp paint? The reason I ask is because I have the Rustoleum Acrylic Enamel which says it is rated to 200 degrees Farenheight and I would rather not paint everything only for it to be damaged by the heat. If this will not work, what recommendations do yall have. Thanks for your help in advance!


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post #2 of 10 Old 01-27-2020, 12:51 AM
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No need for high heat paint. The RustOpium works well and will last many years.

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-27-2020, 12:54 AM
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If you want to get fancy spray it with a cheap Harbor Freight touch up gun. And add some Valspar brand hardener. This will make it dry faster and last longer.

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-27-2020, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the advice! Do you have an opinion on rustoleum compared to Duplicolor's enamel paints? If I recall correctly, rustoleum tends to have a fading problem? And what primer would you recommend for bare metal if it is prepped well (scuffed and treated with mineral spirits)?

Thanks again

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post #5 of 10 Old 01-27-2020, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SeaDog01712 View Post
Thank you for the advice! Do you have an opinion on rustoleum compared to Duplicolor's enamel paints? If I recall correctly, rustoleum tends to have a fading problem? And what primer would you recommend for bare metal if it is prepped well (scuffed and treated with mineral spirits)?

Thanks again
Duplicolor is over priced compared to Krylon or Rust-Oleum.

Mineral spirits MAY NOT be the best surface prep...Lacquer thinner or acetone are much more universal and leave no residue.

Oil-based red oxide primer is superior for durability. But use the formula recommended by the paint you want to color with, as each brand may not be inter-compatible due to the solvent used.

For small parts, a nice oven or even sun-baking will enhance it's curing.

Use High Gloss for fade resistance and good cleaning, but note that common underhood chemicals CAN destroy the gloss.
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-27-2020, 10:20 AM
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If you are not using wax and grease remover or final wipe chlorinated brake clean is great. Gutthans is correct saying most of these will fade if used in direct sun light like a front bumper. I also use the rusty metal primer.
Are you thinking of using spray cans or a paint gun?

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post #7 of 10 Old 01-27-2020, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know the surface prep info as the prep work can make or break the paint work. I guess fading shouldn't be too much of an issue since the hood is shut most of the time.

I am leaning more towards rattle cans for the ease of use and budget, understanding that they may not be as good as other alternatives. However, I am open to other suggestions and ideas. Thanks.

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post #8 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaDog01712 View Post
Thank you for the advice! Do you have an opinion on rustoleum compared to Duplicolor's enamel paints? If I recall correctly, rustoleum tends to have a fading problem? And what primer would you recommend for bare metal if it is prepped well (scuffed and treated with mineral spirits)?

Thanks again
I've been involved in industrial coatings for three decades. In salt fog tests these two products do not fare well at all.. They are usually the very first to fail. The next thing that failed was calcium sulfonate coatings. The third thing to fall apart is the zinc phosphate epoxy primer. there is a video on YouTube called POR 15, KBS, chassis saver salt fog test.I noticed there is no mention of any kind acid etch in this thread. Acid etching neutralizes the rust that's not apparent to the naked eye, improves the surface profile of the metal for paints and coatings to adhere better. It adds long-term corrosion protection for coatings that are not airtight.
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post #9 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 12:02 PM
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I noticed there is no mention of any kind acid etch in this thread.
I believe that some types of rattle can formulas are 'self-etching', and I would assume that is an 'acidic etch'? As a former tech, do you have a suggestion for the OP about rattle can shooters, or are you only thinking that 2 part or other spray preps are worth the trouble?
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post #10 of 10 Old 02-10-2020, 02:04 PM
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I believe that some types of rattle can formulas are 'self-etching', and I would assume that is an 'acidic etch'? As a former tech, do you have a suggestion for the OP about rattle can shooters, or are you only thinking that 2 part or other spray preps are worth the trouble?
These are acid etching solutions that contains zinc. Rattle cans are very convenient and work well. With the zinc residue left on the steel it adds a great deal of corrosion protection.They now have two-part paints in spray cans and they work well also.You can use metal prep's from all your favorite vendors. The one I developed does not require a water rinse. In a place like Florida if you hose down the metal prep it will rust like crazy

When you spray with a rattle can spray in one direction only avoid going back and forth. This has worked well for me and it's a tip I picked up years ago
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