A YJ 5.3 build without a clever name - Page 170 - JeepForum.com
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post #2536 of 2570 Old 04-11-2019, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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I decided that I wanted to give the stock pitman arm another shot. A bit of work with the HF press flattened it out nicely and lengthened it to 6". It turns the Reid knuckles to the stops each way so obviously there is enough throw. It also leaves more room at the diff cover.



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post #2537 of 2570 Old 04-11-2019, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Im pretty happy with the wheelbase up front. The tires are a little forward of center on the Metalcloaks and it seems like everything will clear with plenty of room.


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post #2538 of 2570 Old 04-11-2019, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Im only a little more than 1" of "lift height " than I was with 35s so that makes me happy. Fitting the 14" ORIs up front wont be a problem but in back im going to have to hang them off of the back of the axle tube to run ~4" of uptravel. That doesn't seem as strong as tabs on top of the tube and it adds something to hang up on but I only have so much room.



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post #2539 of 2570 Old 04-12-2019, 02:36 AM
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Looking good dude! Maybe make a place where you can box in the fender top so you can poke through them in the rear? May give you enough room to put them on top of the axle. I have seen people mount a trans cooler like yours, but when I was installing mine the instructions specifically said donít mount it with the ports facing down. I am assuming it will trap air and not be as efficient?

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post #2540 of 2570 Old 04-12-2019, 06:05 AM
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Looking good and so jealous..

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post #2541 of 2570 Old 04-12-2019, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
I have seen people mount a trans cooler like yours, but when I was installing mine the instructions specifically said donít mount it with the ports facing down. I am assuming it will trap air and not be as efficient?
Thats interesting. I hadn't heard that before. I mounted mine where Randon's is with the ports facing down and haven't had any issues. I figured it was fine that way, because that's how it was factory on the donor silverado I pulled it from.
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post #2542 of 2570 Old 04-12-2019, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
Im only a little more than 1" of "lift height " than I was with 35s so that makes me happy. Fitting the 14" ORIs up front wont be a problem but in back im going to have to hang them off of the back of the axle tube to run ~4" of uptravel. That doesn't seem as strong as tabs on top of the tube and it adds something to hang up on but I only have so much room.
JK guys do it all the time, much lower than what you've got, and somehow their shocks survive. I think you'll be fine running flush like that.

Also, I run my trans cooler the same way, just mounted behind my seat. Works fine


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post #2543 of 2570 Old 04-12-2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thats a good point. JK dudes run them like 4" off the ground with coilover conversions.

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post #2544 of 2570 Old 04-13-2019, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Im not going to dwell on the calculator because this is really the only way things are going to fit but its good to have confirmation that things are in check for the most part. Ive read 80-100% Anti-squat (anti-dive) so im pretty close there. Anyone see anything out of line?



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post #2545 of 2570 Old 04-14-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Got rear axle and control arms welded and painted. Id like to finalize the rear shock mounts today.

Also pulled the front fenders so I can get a fresh coat of paint on them and set up the shocm towers.



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post #2546 of 2570 Old 04-14-2019, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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@Heretic122 helped me cycle the front and it worked susprisingly well for some guess work. The track bar contacts the top of the diff cover at full bump but it has plenty of room to move forward about 1". The upper link mount hits a corner of the PS bracket but that can be clearanced. I dont have an upper mocked up yet because im waiting on new joints from Poly Performance but it looks like everything will clear well there.

Anyone have any input on setting uptravel vs ride height on ORIs? Im planning on 4" but thats where things get real tight. 3" is easy. I actually run out of shock tower up front. After I trim some off of the rears i may use that to extend the fronts up an inch or 2.



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post #2547 of 2570 Old 04-14-2019, 08:06 PM
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I had to make a couple bends in my panhard to clear the diff at full stuff. Have you lifted the axle straight up to see where full bump is going to end up (before you start having to chop the frame)? Slam it as low as possible without hitting things and install the shocks at full bump and that's all you can really do. If you haven't already, I'd expect you will need to notch the frame on the passenger side.

Looks like the panhard would line up better if you lowered the frame side a hole or 2.


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post #2548 of 2570 Old 04-14-2019, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Rear axle reinstalled with new control arms. Got the MC fenders stripped and painted.

My adjustable upper link bracket is too big to fit a Jeep frame so I drilled 2 more holes in the standard bracket I had already bought. The middle hole puts me where i want to be according to the calculator so I shouldnt have to mess with it much. It fits nicely right above the Barnes lowers so thats a bonus.





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post #2549 of 2570 Old 04-14-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
I had to make a couple bends in my panhard to clear the diff at full stuff. Have you lifted the axle straight up to see where full bump is going to end up (before you start having to chop the frame)? Slam it as low as possible without hitting things and install the shocks at full bump and that's all you can really do. If you haven't already, I'd expect you will need to notch the frame on the passenger side.

Looks like the panhard would line up better if you lowered the frame side a hole or 2.
I notched the frame for the drag link but now that has plenty of room, its the track bar that hits first. I will probably have to open up that notch an inch or 2 back.

I havent raised the whole front axle up to full bump yet. Im trying to wrap up the rear but keep getting drawn toward the front I've only brought each side to full bump.

The problem I am running into is that the Barnes towers are only 12.75" from the top of the frame. That is making it hard to squeeze 26" (4" of uptravel) of static height in there. I may have to grab a blank set of towers and cut my own height and angle. An inch or 2 higher would make things easy...

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post #2550 of 2570 Old 04-15-2019, 05:30 AM
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Think about this with up travel on ORI's the last 5/8" of chrome will never compress (past the internal bump stop). The hydraulic bump stop is 3/4". So you are in the bump with 1-3/8" of shaft showing. The oil dampening believe is around 3", so a total of 4-3/8". So if you only have 4" up (assuming you are counting total chrome showing) you are never in the gas area. Your ride might be harsh. Im no expert with them and still learning, but thinking out loud.
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