Wildman's TJ from Then til Now - Page 38 - JeepForum.com
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post #556 of 740 Old 02-05-2021, 07:20 PM
'92 vegas YJ
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Kicking a$$ Rick. Those bypass hoses aren't easy to put on the standard magnum manifold either. It's the first thing to go on and the last thing to come off.

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post #557 of 740 Old 02-05-2021, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
wildman4x4nut
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Kicking a$$ Rick. Those bypass hoses aren't easy to put on the standard magnum manifold either. It's the first thing to go on and the last thing to come off.
100% agreed & Thanks. I'm seriously thinking about cutting that part of the bracket off since I don't have A/C and really don't ever plan on trying to put it back on. And if for some reason I did decide to put A/C back on I can always pick up a bracket in the J/Y.

I'm waiting for the pipe that threads into the intake manifold right now so I can finish all that. That thing is expensive and most places was back ordered. But I have one coming.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #558 of 740 Old 02-05-2021, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Had to go back out to the garage so I took a couple of pictures of the rocker arms installed.



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post #559 of 740 Old 02-06-2021, 07:55 AM
NashvilleTJ
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I got side tracked with a few other things today so I didn't get much done. Put I did get my rocker arms installed along with all the pushrods so now I just need to get them adjusted. I also got the reduction bushing in for my 2nd coolant temp probe. I have the factory one and then one for my fan controller. I have a SPAL fan controller that allows you to set it so the fan will come on at 50% speed at a programed temp and then 100% at another programed temp.




A fan controller is something I should do. I have a two speed fan but I run it off a single temp probe on/off switch in the radiator and only at high speed.

How does the Spal controller work, does it use an actual temp sensor? And how does it control the fan speed? Mine fan has two power wires, one for slow and both for fast.

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post #560 of 740 Old 02-06-2021, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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A fan controller is something I should do. I have a two speed fan but I run it off a single temp probe on/off switch in the radiator and only at high speed.

How does the Spal controller work, does it use an actual temp sensor? And how does it control the fan speed? Mine fan has two power wires, one for slow and both for fast.
The Spal controller I have is programable and can take the reading off your PCM if it has that option or from a temp sensor like what I installed in the intake. Then you program the controller to turn on the fan when you want at 50% speed and then at 100% speed. It's just a 2 wire setup.

This is the NEWER version of what I have.

https://www.a1electric.com/spal/spec...0ON/OFF%20only.

This is what mine looks like.


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Cle Elum, WA

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post #561 of 740 Old 02-06-2021, 11:28 AM
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Thanks Rick. Two wires being two hot wires, or a hot and a ground?
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post #562 of 740 Old 02-07-2021, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
wildman4x4nut
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Thanks Rick. Two wires being two hot wires, or a hot and a ground?
Hot & ground. What I liked about the SPAL controller over other ones was that is allowed you to bring it on @ 50% at any temp you wanted and then 100% also. So I had it programed it coming on at 180* 50% and 210* 100%.

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post #563 of 740 Old 02-07-2021, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday I got the valves adjusted on the engine. It took me a while because I had to go back and double check myself since I wasn't certain I'd done the adjustment properly. I used this method to get the valves adjusted.






Then I installed the valve covers. But ran into a small SNAFU with the valve cover gaskets. One end of them would not clear the head studs so I had to clearance them a little.





Once that was done I was able to install the valve covers. I decided I would try out some spark plug wire looms also. If they aren't working the way I want I can always got back to my other style of fasteners.





Then I put the engine to bed for now. I'll tape it up to try and keep as much dirt from getting into it as possible until I'm ready to install the engine.

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WILDMAN

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post #564 of 740 Old 02-09-2021, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Started working on the steering rotation/stretch today. But first I needed to clean up from the engine assembly. Then I had to remove my high stands that were under the frame and put jack stands just behind the Savvy mid arm brackets.
Then I could get busy on the stretch.

Cross member in place.



Look MA no cross member. And thanks for the advice I got from Nashville TJ I put a piece of boxed tubing across the frame to keep the rails from spreading once the cross member is removed.



Then started grinding on the tube sticking out of the frame on the inside.



Passenger inside done.



Then hit the drivers inside frame.



Drivers side done except the strip of metal left from removing the steering box mounts.



Drives side done on the inside of frame.



Passenger outside frame done.




Tomorrow I'll get the outside on the drivers side done.

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post #565 of 740 Old 02-10-2021, 07:02 AM
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Wildman's TJ from Then til Now

Rick -

It looks like you are doing that incorrectly - unless something has changed with that kit. That tube which runs through the frame rails needs to be completely removed, and the resulting hole needs to be recut so that the front edge of the hole is even with the front edge of the frame. The purpose of that is so the new cross member can be mounted close to flush with the front of the frame, which is what ultimately makes room to flat mount the steering gear.

Like this:

jeep-coilover-suspension-two-7-5-2016-2249.jpg

Does that make sense?
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post #566 of 740 Old 02-10-2021, 07:03 AM
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Well that looks like it was a good time. Looks good though.
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87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241/HP Dana44/9", Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT


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post #567 of 740 Old 02-10-2021, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Jeff and I talked this morning about the way he'd done the stretch and what the new directions say it should be done. The funny part of this is that they may have changed the directions BUT the picture they used is still the same as what Jeef had when he did his. After looking at the directions again Jeff & I came to the same conclusion that they now want you to leave the tube that is inside the frame. The thought process is that this would strengthen the frame more in that area.

I got an early start at working on the Jeep and finishing off the drivers side was easy since I'd already done one side. I did the measurements as described in the instructions and then used my cutoff wheel first to notch the frame and then finished the cut with my sawzall into the tube.






Drivers side is done. Here you can see how I started the cuts with the cutoff wheel.





And now both sides are cut.





Next was to test fit the new crossmember to see how it would fit.






Then I installed the plates to see how they were going to fit.











I went back and looked at the directions again and figured out I needed to move the plates/tube a little bit deeper into the frame.








Then I pulled it all back apart so I could paint the frame and the back side of the plates with some weld thru primer. I'm letting the paint dry and have to get ready soon to take my dog to the vet so I may not have any time afterwards to work on the Jeep today.
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WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #568 of 740 Old 02-10-2021, 08:21 PM
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That turned out well, Rick. Nice work.
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post #569 of 740 Old 02-11-2021, 09:46 AM
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That looks very good! How much stretch will it allow for up front?

YJOTM: Jan 2021


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post #570 of 740 Old 02-11-2021, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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That turned out well, Rick. Nice work.
Thanks Jeff. It turned out pretty good once you helped me figure out what the directions were asking me to do. I'm ready to get this part done so I can figure out my front axle.


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That looks very good! How much stretch will it allow for up front?
TNT Customs says you can get up to 3" of stretch out of using their kit. Once I get everything welded up I will let you know how much I can get with it.
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WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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