The Wasteland Survival Guide: Engineering Greta - Page 227 - JeepForum.com
 
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post #3391 of 8099 Old 02-18-2013, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post



I actually read your posts on the 6.5's this afternoon! Right now, the debate is centering on how much modification will need to be made in order to enclose whatever is selected to go in that area; the cone area and response of an enclosed 6.5" driver would be most welcome, but I know it will be a nightmare to make them fit. Enclosed 5.25's wouldn't be too bad... but it should be noted that even those aren't the "bolt in" solution of the normal 5.25" swap, and that either option is considerably easier than getting decent fill from a second set.
I'm sure you've seen these but, I have these: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT52...h.html?tp=2809 with the angled 5 1/4 mount loaded with Polk DB series speakers since they are marine grade. The baffles make a noticeable difference. Not as much as MDF but noticeable. Maybe with minor cutting you could fit in some 6.5" with baffles instead of enclosure and get some acceptable results with high quality speakers and enough power pushing it.

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post #3392 of 8099 Old 02-18-2013, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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I'm sure you've seen these but, I have these: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT52...h.html?tp=2809 with the angled 5 1/4 mount loaded with Polk DB series speakers since they are marine grade. The baffles make a noticeable difference. Not as much as MDF but noticeable. Maybe with minor cutting you could fit in some 6.5" with baffles instead of enclosure and get some acceptable results with high quality speakers and enough power pushing it.
I have seen those, yes; I also had an e-mail discussion with SirG on how best to kill the backwave, and his suggestion was to either use those as the base-form for an enclosure, or to just partition and polyfill the area. Also, I'll likely put a 5.25" in that space with about 100 watts going to it; that's easier and provides the frequencies I need from that location. It's looking like a 2.1.1 system, right now.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #3393 of 8099 Old 02-18-2013, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by KateKGB View Post

Reasonable I suppose. I wouldnt mind one bit as long as it wasnt a wet snow. Then again I just came from a week of the coldest weather of the season in florida and I was sweltering.

Either way, sorry for your frustrations man. I have little to no patience and would have likely imploded in a fit of rage by now.
Where in Florida?
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post #3394 of 8099 Old 02-18-2013, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Sundowner

I have seen those, yes; I also had an e-mail discussion with SirG on how best to kill the backwave, and his suggestion was to either use those as the base-form for an enclosure, or to just partition and polyfill the area. Also, I'll likely put a 5.25" in that space with about 100 watts going to it; that's easier and provides the frequencies I need from that location. It's looking like a 2.1.1 system, right now.
What's the extra .1?

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post #3395 of 8099 Old 02-18-2013, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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What's the extra .1?
A 6.5" mid-range driver. In that configuration, it would be 5.25" components in the dash, a 6.5" driver in the console to fill in the gaps and add needed volume, and an 8" sub hidden elsewhere. I was going to locate the sub in the console, but that's high-value real estate that would be much better dedicated to something with some extra mid-bass; if the mid-bass unit becomes an additional component then the pair would be run as bridged mono rear fill. In that event, it would be a 3.1 system.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #3396 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 12:47 AM
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Pictured: Today's Jeeping.

I'll have better images uploaded when I can get some...this was just a quick snap with the cell phone. Also, for those that are interested, we checked the tire wear between the new spare and the ones that I've been running for a year; there's approximately .09" of wear in the center tread blocks and slightly less at the edges. The weight of the new tire, unmounted, is 75.8 lbs...which is pretty close to what Falken promised. This tire also mounted up and balanced beautifully, which I will hope means that they've got their balancing issues solved; this one only needed about an ounce to balance out perfectly.

I'd also like to report that I've settled out to 21.5 lbs. of air in each tire, which makes for a nice ride on the road while still maintaining decent gas mileage and tire wear. Adding the weight of the spare and 100 lbs. of gas makes the suspension perform much better; the back end felt a little more centered-up, the front wasn't as harsh and the brake dive is noticeably reduced. I wouldn't have expected that a 200-lb. weight difference would have made such an impact, but when it's all bearing down on the rear axle I suppose it's possible.

Again, better pictures will be forthcoming; I was behind from the start today because I had to fix a BAD fuel leak on the #1 injector...and when I say BAD I want you to read "severe enough to cause one to wonder how the fuel wasn't catching on fire when it was seen dripping onto a hot exhaust manifold." An O-ring had disintegrated for some reason; I had some old/extra O-rings lying around, but I'm likely going to pull all the injectors and re-ring them just so that I'll feel better about life.
Hey, question, I have the falkens in 33 and love them because they do awesome on every surface except deep snow. Do you have any experience with these in around 1 foot snow? I was running them at 10psi and could nearly climb a hill now I wonder if I should have ran something closer to 20psi.


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post #3397 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 05:05 AM
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Where in Florida?
Tampa and orlando area. I almost died laughing when there was a special weather statement saying to wear gloves and a hat the day you had the freeze advisory.


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post #3398 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post

Hey, question, I have the falkens in 33 and love them because they do awesome on every surface except deep snow. Do you have any experience with these in around 1 foot snow? I was running them at 10psi and could nearly climb a hill now I wonder if I should have ran something closer to 20psi.
No, we don't get that kind of snow in my corner of the Wasteland. I'm not that experienced with driving in deep snow, but I can tell you that 10 PSI is still going to be stiffer than you expect with these tires; I'll be down to 8 or so, next time I'm in the rougher stuff... that'll get the sidewalls flexing a bit more.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #3399 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
No, we don't get that kind of snow in my corner of the Wasteland. I'm not that experienced with driving in deep snow, but I can tell you that 10 PSI is still going to be stiffer than you expect with these tires; I'll be down to 8 or so, next time I'm in the rougher stuff... that'll get the sidewalls flexing a bit more.
That seems like the only downside for snow, the lack of sidewall deflection. That snowshoe effect is really the only way a tire would perform better in snow. Over the year you have had them, have you noticed any more deflection from wear?

... and see what it's really going to take to build one...and then I'm going to triple that cost/time estimate and see how I feel.

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post #3400 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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That seems like the only downside for snow, the lack of sidewall deflection. That snowshoe effect is really the only way a tire would perform better in snow. Over the year you have had them, have you noticed any more deflection from wear?
I have, yes...but still not on the order of what we'd expect from a C-range tire. Overall, they're stiff...but they also wear well and seem to take a lot of punishment, so I'd consider that a fair trade-off.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #3401 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
A 6.5" mid-range driver. In that configuration, it would be 5.25" components in the dash, a 6.5" driver in the console to fill in the gaps and add needed volume, and an 8" sub hidden elsewhere. I was going to locate the sub in the console, but that's high-value real estate that would be much better dedicated to something with some extra mid-bass; if the mid-bass unit becomes an additional component then the pair would be run as bridged mono rear fill. In that event, it would be a 3.1 system.
I think a 2.1.1 system would work fine. As far as room constraints are concerned, could you possibly put the 8" sub in the console and put the 6.5" midbase in a pod maybe centered under the deck? You would need far less air space to run the 6.5 midbass. Maybe partition an enclosure that would house your amps and the 6.5 neatly under the deck frame centered between the seats?

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post #3402 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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I think a 2.1.1 system would work fine. As far as room constraints are concerned, could you possibly put the 8" sub in the console and put the 6.5" midbase in a pod maybe centered under the deck? You would need far less air space to run the 6.5 midbass. Maybe partition an enclosure that would house your amps and the 6.5 neatly under the deck frame centered between the seats?
The 8" being relocated to some other space is because of 1) limited console space, and 2) being two speakers down in the front. The 6.5" doesn't take much airspace and provides the needed fill up front, and the 8" only needs about .3 ft for best performance no matter where it goes...and your notion about where to locate an under-deck pod is essentially the same as mine. If there was any way to run a full-depth 8" sub in the console I would do it, but it's just going to be too tight. The amps will go under the dash, most likely...that's an easy location and keeps the big wiring pulls to a minimum length.

In unrelated news, the top shop has given me the run-around AGAIN, so I'm looking around for someone else to do the work while I wait on them to call me back AGAIN.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #3403 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 11:23 AM
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First time poster on this thread -- must say that I've enjoyed it immensely and you seem to be a cool guy, even if you don't like pickles.

RE: Speakers -- why not use the trick that some convertibles use and stick them in the head rests of the seats?
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post #3404 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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First time poster on this thread -- must say that I've enjoyed it immensely and you seem to be a cool guy, even if you don't like pickles.
I assure you that in person I'm insufferable...but I'm glad you've enjoyed the thread so far.

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RE: Speakers -- why not use the trick that some convertibles use and stick them in the head rests of the seats?
It's not ideal for sound, but that thought has been considered more than once.

If it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing.

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post #3405 of 8099 Old 02-19-2013, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post

No, we don't get that kind of snow in my corner of the Wasteland. I'm not that experienced with driving in deep snow, but I can tell you that 10 PSI is still going to be stiffer than you expect with these tires; I'll be down to 8 or so, next time I'm in the rougher stuff... that'll get the sidewalls flexing a bit more.
Ok thanks for the info man


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