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post #451 of 487 Old 06-03-2020, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well things have worked out well this week and I’m ahead of schedule! Main goal was get the Jeep on all 4 and it’s mission accomplished!

I had quite a few little things that needed doing and checking before I could make it happen. Did some finish welding on the rear link crossmember (even though I thought I was done and painted it already) just Wanted to have some stitch welds be full welds. Then the big chore was sleeping the frame to up the bolt size to 1/2”. I had to bore all my holes out to 3/4 on the frame, cut sleeves from 3/4, .120 wall DOM then weld them in, cleanup and paint. Then get the holes on the crossmember bored and lined up, then finally repaint everything and install it. But it’s worth it, it is so much beefier now so I won’t worry about it.

I did some other stuff to the axle, drilled clamps for the brake lines and tightened them, then got the axle under there.
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Went smooth. Still need to replace all the nuts with locknuts and tighten the stop it’s on the links once it’s aligned.

The. Had to mount the last 2 beadlocks.. not my favorite task, but it went smooth enough. Got a wheel installed and checked clearance. Mostly needed to be sure the tire didn’t hit the spring, the rear cage tie in, or the sliders since I didn’t cycle with a tire on when I put it all on. Good news is it’s all good.
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It’s full stuff there, hard to tell, but there is several inches of room around everything.

Finish welded the cage tie ins, clearances the tub more for the coilovers to pass through, put coilovers on and set her down.
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Pretty happy, the spring rates seem to be holding it exactly where I wanted so I was very close on my weight estimate. Those rear springs are soft since the uppers are only 100lbs you can push the rear down easily. It will be better once I charge the coilovers though. Final WB is 111.5”, 1.5” more than I projected, more is better.
Overall this is a big step. It’s far from done, and for now I’m more concerned with getting it functional before I worry about the looks too much (she’s not a looker in many ways). Very excited to see how she does though. Also got the driveshafts dropped off to have them re-tubed so those will be done by Friday, things are looking good that I can have it mobile by next weekend ... not done, but mobile!

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post #452 of 487 Old 06-04-2020, 06:36 AM
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post #453 of 487 Old 06-04-2020, 07:42 AM
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You are wrong about one thing, Tanner. Anyone who knows what they are looking at - thinks it is a looker...

Getting close buddy.
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post #454 of 487 Old 06-04-2020, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate it, still tons to do thought. Got a little more of that done today.

Big thing was the hydro assist ram. All along I knew I had an 8” stroke ram, and presumed my steering was 8” as well, measured it up to weld it and it is indeed not, it’s only 7”. The original solution was to open the ram and use a homemade spaced to de-stroke it to 7”, however, I spent a good 30 minutes trying to get the cap off the ram to no avail. It’s a brand new ram, there are no set screws in the cap and I was using a pulley holding tool that has pin attachments on it so it has almost 2’ of leverage and a solid hold on the cap but it would not move. So I gave up and decided for now I would limit it externally. I still think it would be better inside, but I felt like something was going to break badly if I pushed it more.d45b479f-cbfc-47da-8fb5-22fe24575766_1591335663462.jpg

Then welding it on, painting it, painting more of the front tube work, half installing the front clip, installing the ram, grinding my double sheet bracket to clear the rotor, replacing bolts that were to short and cutting down some that were a hair too long, bending the PS return line fitting, sealing the front diff, can’t even remember what else. Still lots more, but if I can keep chunking the list down like this then I’m on my way.
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post #455 of 487 Old 06-08-2020, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Little things continue.

Got the HP power steering line built and in, then went and put the Hydro assist lines on and they are waaaay to long. I suspected this, but the test fit confirmed it. I’m he hoses are a crimped fitting, but the hose is the same diameter as the line that I built for the pump so I ordered more of the field service fittings and I’ll be cutting the line down and adding those as soon as they arrive. You can see in the pic below they are out of control!
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I also decided I’m going to change the spring rates. After preloading then to 1” I have to redact my statement from earlier that I was dead on with my estimates... I was close, but they are too firm and it just sits way too high. I’m almost 81” to the top of the cage and have almost 9” of shaft exposed. Trouble is my rates are already crazy low. Front was 150/250, rear was 100/200. In going to change out the lowers for 50lbs less and see where it puts me. I’m hoping I can do a couple things to get 2” lower.

Also tackled the PCM and wiring. I thought I was going to have to cut the lions down and start from scratch, but once I sorted the looms out and could see what I was working with it wasn’t bad. I ended up bending my original PDC bracket to hold the PDC on the firewall, drilling a 3” hole in the firewall to pass the PCM pigtails through to the PDC which I mounted I. The cab above the passenger footwell does it’s more out of the elements. Then I lowered the battery mounting tray about 18” and drilled holes to mount an artec battery try I got from a buddy. It’s not the fanciest of work, but it is simplified, practical and keeps puts things where I want them. Still need to zip tie some of the remaining looms together to clean things up, but it works.
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Also got the grill and headlights back on, as well as the fam wiring and relays. Looks more like it should now!
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Then installing lots of final hardware, lock butting all the links, locknuts on all the frame mounts etc, etc.
Nothing terribly exciting, but it’s all part of it.

Still crossing my fingers the is may be the week she moves, but I’m being cautious as I still have the entire brake system to design and build, which could go smooth or terribly, terribly wrong like the last time I tried this...
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post #456 of 487 Old 06-09-2020, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Just keep swimming I guess..

Did some plasma work, I had lost or given away my windshield stat brackets so I whipped up some new ones from some scrap 3/16 plate. Painted them silver to match.
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Then I cut and welded some bracing for the frame side track bar mount. It’s probably unnecessary, but I hear time and time again it’s the biggest fail point, it’s an interesting design, but it’s on there. If anything it will spread the load a little further.
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Then I finished the accessories on the cross bar. Remote reservoir mounts and the tabs where the hood latch pins will attach, painted up.
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I also had to weld my windshield hinge back together. It’s been broken for a while, but the last cage had a big mounting surface so it held. This probably would as well, but I figured why not. I’ll replace it eventually, but it’s not a priority item.

I also decided I’m going to go 100lbs lighter on the spring rates. It will bring me down almost exactly 2” which is what I want. Bummer is they are on order so it may not be this week when it’s on it’s own weight. Still waiting on driveshafts anyways. Little at a time!
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post #457 of 487 Old 06-15-2020, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Some progress and some setbacks..

Didn’t get it running moving as planned, maybe this week, but some stuff is out of my control. Still waiting on springs to get in and now I’m stuck waiting for a specialty brake fitting that nobody has anywhere locally. Gonna check one more place today, otherwise I’ve got one on order.

Little things though. Finished the hood latch pins, mounted the fuel cell, built most of the brake system, shortened my hydraulic ram lines, did lots of final hardware install etc.
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Attachment 3915327
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I also got.my driveshafts back. The front is 40” long and to my surprise I have no driveshaft bind at any angle. I Do have the slightest interference when the passenger is full stuff and driver is full drop, I need to cut the edge of my upper link bracket off and should have no issues.
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Things are close, but there is more room than it seems. I can fit my hand in most of the gaps when it’s full stuff.

Had some issues with the rear. I didn’t realize when I broke the shaft last year I also cracked the retainer nub off the yoke. Probably could have left it, but the guy that built my shafts was nice enough to give me one he had at home for free so that was awesome. Went to swap it and found the yoke bolt was super loose. Tightened it back on and it went tighter.. tighter then looser.. bout crapped my pants thinking I’d stripped the output shaft, but the nut had stripped out. Had a spare and used that, but it was extremely tight, pulled it off and looked closer to find the edge of the threads on the shaft were damaged so it was destroying the nuts. Was worried for a bit, but was able to locate a tap from Napa the next day for $6 and it fixed it right up. Still waiting to install the driveshaft until I’ve filled the T-case with oil so it’s not in the way.

The other hurdle was the front bumps. The original plan was to install bump cans and use poly bumps on them so I could easily swap air bumps in when I have money again. I built these cool little bump pads that wrap around the truss and build corresponding gussets, but when I went to do the bump cans I found they just won’t clear the coilovers when one side is drooped.
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In the second pic you can see how far away it needs to be to clear the coilover. Making the bump pads that long would be ridiculous so after some feedback on Facebook I concluded the best option is to French them into the inside of the frame. I have the space if I shuffle a few things, but I decided I will wait until I have the air bumps since it would just set me further behind schedule with no immediate gains.

Instead I cut down some rectangular tube I had and made bump pads for my old poly progressive bumps. They work like a charm, cost nothing and only took about 45min to do. Not the prettiest, but it’s not permanent.
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Ordered stuff to charge the coilovers, should be here tomorrow, then as soon as I get my brake fitting I can final install that and finish filling everything, then springs, rear bumps and a few little things. So close!
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post #458 of 487 Old 06-16-2020, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Minor victory, I had debated for a while on how I was going to charge my shocks since fill kits are in the 3-400$ range for an off the shelf set. I had debated just paying the local shop $15 a pop to fill them, but I’d always rather have the tool to do something myself if I’m gonna spend money anyways. The solution was this. A pretty cheap 400psi nitrogen gauge that has output in increments of 10psi, some HVAC high pressure hose with female ends on both sides and an air chuck with an adapter to the hose ends. All off amazon for about $75. Then I took the tiny empty bottle from my oxy/acy torch and had it swapped to a nitrogen one for $25 at the welding store and viola, a fill tool.
I considered getting a no loss chuck, but all the reviews I read said they don’t work on sway always because the valve is recessed in the shock body too far. In the end the basic tire fill chuck worked with no issues. I set the PSI on the output of the regulator, pressed the valve on for a few seconds, the pressure regulated and I pulled it off fast. Quite glad I didn’t pay a shop $65 to fill them and end up with nothing in the end when now, for $35 more I have a tool for life. Now it won’t be an added expense if I rebuild or re-valve them. d6538139-0236-41eb-8640-39b4b0a0edbd_1592346415815.jpg
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post #459 of 487 Old 06-16-2020, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
Minor victory, I had debated for a while on how I was going to charge my shocks since fill kits are in the 3-400$ range for an off the shelf set. I had debated just paying the local shop $15 a pop to fill them, but Iíd always rather have the tool to do something myself if Iím gonna spend money anyways. The solution was this. A pretty cheap 400psi nitrogen gauge that has output in increments of 10psi, some HVAC high pressure hose with female ends on both sides and an air chuck with an adapter to the hose ends. All off amazon for about $75. Then I took the tiny empty bottle from my oxy/acy torch and had it swapped to a nitrogen one for $25 at the welding store and viola, a fill tool.
I considered getting a no loss chuck, but all the reviews I read said they donít work on sway always because the valve is recessed in the shock body too far. In the end the basic tire fill chuck worked with no issues. I set the PSI on the output of the regulator, pressed the valve on for a few seconds, the pressure regulated and I pulled it off fast. Quite glad I didnít pay a shop $65 to fill them and end up with nothing in the end when now, for $35 more I have a tool for life. Now it wonít be an added expense if I rebuild or re-valve them.
You were able to do that pretty cheap. I built my own dual fill kit with the zero loss fittings and spent about $400 total.
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post #460 of 487 Old 06-17-2020, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
Minor victory, I had debated for a while on how I was going to charge my shocks since fill kits are in the 3-400$ range for an off the shelf set. I had debated just paying the local shop $15 a pop to fill them, but Iíd always rather have the tool to do something myself if Iím gonna spend money anyways. The solution was this. A pretty cheap 400psi nitrogen gauge that has output in increments of 10psi, some HVAC high pressure hose with female ends on both sides and an air chuck with an adapter to the hose ends. All off amazon for about $75. Then I took the tiny empty bottle from my oxy/acy torch and had it swapped to a nitrogen one for $25 at the welding store and viola, a fill tool.
I considered getting a no loss chuck, but all the reviews I read said they donít work on sway always because the valve is recessed in the shock body too far. In the end the basic tire fill chuck worked with no issues. I set the PSI on the output of the regulator, pressed the valve on for a few seconds, the pressure regulated and I pulled it off fast. Quite glad I didnít pay a shop $65 to fill them and end up with nothing in the end when now, for $35 more I have a tool for life. Now it wonít be an added expense if I rebuild or re-valve them. Attachment 3915639
I will have to be on the lookout for a small used bottle...

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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post #461 of 487 Old 06-17-2020, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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[/QUOTE]You were able to do that pretty cheap. I built my own dual fill kit with the zero loss fittings and spent about $400 total.[/QUOTE]

I was fortunate to already have a bottle, fairly cheap regulator, using just a tire chuck.. it’s very rudimentary and I know it’s not extremely precise, but I can always slightly overfill, then use a precise gauge to drop it down to be exact. I was actually surprised how well the tire chuck worked, I figured I would be fighting it and loosing a bunch of nitrogen, but it was very clean and fast.
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post #462 of 487 Old 06-18-2020, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well the brake system is about 90% done with the exception of double checking all the fittings, filling, leak checking and bleeding. I didn’t have the guts to fill it today and start finding leak points.

The setup is definitely unique for a Jeep I think. Since changing to the 14 bolt I lost my mechanical E-brake. There is an option to swap the calipers for ones with mechanical e-brakes, but I have heard issues with them, plus it an added expense and another thing to route under the body. I decided to go out of the box for my solution and landed on a hydraulic pass through hand brake.. basically a drift brake..
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It certainly looks one of a kind in there. The setup is this. I have a hardline straight from the master, along the frame rail, up the tub and into the cab via a grommeted hole in the floor. That connects via a regular double flare fitting to a Wilwood adjustable prop valve. That is routed via stainless line to the inlet of the handbrake then stainless line connects via an AN junction to the line running down the upper link to the rear axle split.

The benefit is 2 fold. On the one hand it can act as an emergency brake. While I won’t trust it entirely, it will at least give the flexibility to exit the vehicle and put something behind a tire. Second, I can use it as somewhat of a cutting brake. It won’t be a true cutting brake as I’m spooled in the rear, but it will allow me to pin the rear in place to do front digs. For added fun I could also do cool fishtails! Ok.. or maybe just use it to ease myself off ledges or something.. I can think of a few uses though.

The rest is basic, hardline connected via AN nuts to flex line then adapters at the calipers. The lines along the frame rail don’t look nearly as clean since everything was in place down there and it was too long to map out properly with wire, or put in without utterly deforming it. Luckily nobody will see that part. Otherwise I think it looks ok.

Hopefully it won’t leak. I actually only have 3 flares in the whole setup. 2 at the master and 1 at the prop valve. I have 1 AN nut which uses a single flare, but those are harder to screw up. The rest is just AN fittings and adapters. Crossing my fingers these don’t leak. May play with it tomorrow.
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Unfortunately Eibach is taking their sweet time shipping springs so I still can’t set it down. I did get the front limit straps on and the rear bump stops. They don’t look as clean as I’d hoped, but I’m not in a hurry to cut them off. Also waiting on the rear limit straps since they were out of the length I need. Closer each dayz
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post #463 of 487 Old 06-19-2020, 07:07 AM
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As I started reading this post I also started thinking you should be doing a cutting brake setup, and then you noted the spool and I understood. But, doing it now while you have the beast apart would set you up if you where to go to a selectable locker later. As hard core as your rig is, a cutting brake would fit right in. I run what I call a red neck cutting brake in my rig - a split standard e-brake with separate levers. I use it occasionally, but not much, and itís certainly not as effective as a hydraulic setup.

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post #464 of 487 Old 06-19-2020, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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As I started reading this post I also started thinking you should be doing a cutting brake setup, and then you noted the spool and I understood. But, doing it now while you have the beast apart would set you up if you where to go to a selectable locker later. As hard core as your rig is, a cutting brake would fit right in. I run what I call a red neck cutting brake in my rig - a split standard e-brake with separate levers. I use it occasionally, but not much, and it’s certainly not as effective as a hydraulic setup.
Absolutely. I’m kinda waiting on the 14bolt Ox locker and may change to that one day once it’s out and tested. For now this is going to get me by. Fortunately it’s not as complicated as it looks, I just have almost all the connections on that center console, so it looks mad-scientist. If I add a true cutting brake in the future I would just hook that main line up and run a second down the other link. I like the idea of the split standard e-brake. I need to pick through your build again and check it out.
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post #465 of 487 Old 06-19-2020, 12:05 PM
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Never posted that in the built thread as it predates the coil overs. I do have some pictures and can post if you are interested.

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