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post #406 of 488 Old 04-19-2020, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
What rates did you go with?
For the front I’ve got the corner weight approximated at about 785lbs so I got 150lb over 250lb the rear is light, only have it estimated at about 450 per corner so I got 100lb over 200lb. The 100lb springs look puny!

I’ve only got approximates on the weights so I won’t know till I set it down, luckily the local shop can exchange springs for free so I can get it right.

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post #407 of 488 Old 04-26-2020, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, back at it. I took my time last week and did gears and lockers on my buddies JK 1 Ton swap. It was a pain, it it paid for the springs so it’s worth it as funds were getting slim.

Today I tackled a silly project. I have never loved the front truss. It’s just super tall. So I decided to slim it a bit before I burned it in. Basically, I cut the bottom inch off it. It was a pain, but not the worst. It is almost unnoticeable when you look at it, but the clearance opened up immensely. It’s letting me get an extra inch of up (though my steering will limit for now).
3343c4f8-bc55-4103-a6bb-6be5e8a52d6a_1587959874202.jpgbefore the cut.
27ad9312-941b-45d0-9843-4ebece517135_1587959888433.jpgthe layout
c59696c6-8e99-40b4-865f-570625eead29_1587958087532.jpgafter.

I also took the chance to weld the tubes to the housing. I did the same on my 44’s without issue, but if you look close you can see the weld cracked pretty good. I pre and post heated, but it still happened. This was not meant to be structural, rather just to help prevent gear oil escaping since the four is controlled by inner seals that press into machines bosses that are welded to the tubes. But those welds also kept cracking so I did the outsides we extra insurance. Probably hit the inside with some silicone to be safe, but I’m not concerned with the crack.
52ba2197-a133-4053-8b31-e36efe634a93_1587958106632.jpg

Then it was slowly finish welding the truss on and getting it mocked up. It was good to have it off as it let me set the pinion angle and put the truss totally flat. 0 degree on the truss, 5.5 degrees caster, driveline pointing at t-case.
b427026a-baee-4fa0-9231-c7b7173a2289_1587958143175.jpg3248b2e8-8a4e-40da-9c29-29236f7c4677_1587958128009.jpg
I also cleaned up and tacked on the lower link mounts and track bar mount which needed some significant modifications to fit. It’s all mocked up now and the steering box got reinstalled so I can start locking up the 3link. Really hoping to start hitting this thing hard so I can have it done in a month. So much to do still..
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post #408 of 488 Old 04-27-2020, 07:07 AM
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The truss looks good nice and tight to the housing.

Your plug welds remind me that mine is leaking like crazy there all of a sudden. Maybe it is because of my new cover doesn't leak out of the bottom and the fluid level is staying higher.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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post #409 of 488 Old 04-27-2020, 07:40 AM
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Damn beefy, Dude.

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post #410 of 488 Old 04-27-2020, 07:46 AM
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Excited to see how it turns out.
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post #411 of 488 Old 04-27-2020, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, it’s getting closer each day, gotta really get on it if I want to use it this summer, but I’m trying hard not to cut corners. Gotta finish the 3link this week then I can wrap up the tube work/welding and pull the cage for paint and do bedliner In the tub all next week. This time last year I was wrapping up the last phase of the build and rolling it out of the garage, not as quick this year.
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post #412 of 488 Old 04-27-2020, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Full steam ahead on the 3link. I was able to cut all the links for the losers, upper and the steering today. Then got them installed and put a single light tack on all of them just to prevent them slipping apart. Since Lengths may change I just wanted to test things.
ede15bbe-8610-42a0-aff7-400b7e513b02_1588047853501.jpg this is ride height.
d5e44a2b-8ae7-4e81-8c91-cf9553346b98_1588047877740.jpg this is full bump.

Shockingly, everything fits as planned. The limiting factor is the steering, as mentioned before my tie rod hits the pitman arm. If I would have realized it before I may have stuffed the steering box into the grill, but I thought it was high enough, guess I wasn’t big picture enough. Either way, the conclusion is I need to bump stop it 2” away from drake contact. That’s a lot, but it still gives me 5” of uptravel if I want it. I may drop it down to 4” just to keep the COG lower. I could work around this and gain about 1” more up, but at the expense of losing about 3-4” of WB.
3bd13c3f-1469-400b-91b0-38c60b91c917_1588047903997.jpg
fa23f0e4-a5df-4ed2-9fa4-61e4ec1dfea1_1588047996360.jpg

For the track bar, I modified a ruff stuff 3hole adjustable bracket I got in one of the piles of parts I bought. I trimmed the bottom 2 holes off to make it more low profile. This hole should also match the drag link at ride height.
980b4719-d222-4d09-87e4-d963df5e0912_1588048260491.jpg80595ca3-e5b2-4120-ad18-fe7e288b54c3_1588048238018.jpg12301b82-d8f9-4d2f-8acb-831b2eb83253_1588048221828.jpg
For the track bar I need to put a minor bend in it to clear the diff. It’s so close to the pumpkin it hits. 15 degrees and it will be perfect. Gonna have to pay a shop to bend it since I don’t currently have a 1.5” die... but I e tested clearance with pvc and it has plenty of room.

In all I’m shocked there seems to be no clearance issues. I think the tire will get very close to the lower links, but I don’t think it will hit, at least not much, might scuff it with the tire edge.

I’ll get the track bar bent tomorrow and hopefully have it in there by lunch then I can really flip things around and make sure it’s all playing nice before I burn it all in. Pretty stoked though!

b522e2e8-1c7c-454a-9554-caf3012b12e1_1588048273863.jpg
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post #413 of 488 Old 04-28-2020, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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One more step, I called the local shop and they wanted $30 to put the little bend I needed in the track bar, did a little more digging online and decided to say screw it and use the HF tube kinker. I used an oversized die and lined it with a Half a piece of tube and some rags to make it a tight fit and went to town. Worked perfect. Exactly 15 degrees and no deformation.
ae9ea87d-ef94-4a08-866c-eff25f0c56ef_1588109135164.jpg

Cut it to length at ride height with the axle centered and cycled it to make sure it all clears. It does!
a5586bd9-e732-46b0-8e11-1d4f0c387984_1588109157454.jpg
c6f8d0b9-1cf4-4ff0-b6e2-0642e7f21416_1588109189332.jpg
eafc4ab0-a146-48ce-997f-e978e3368625_1588109209441.jpg
I’m surprised them out of room I have. It’s tight, but not to the point I’m having to trim brackets or cut little bits off.
06dd9441-4ea8-4afe-9d76-e48d9ef54a2d_1588109229589.jpg
f1213715-992d-4b2e-b8fa-ffab2ad0fd03_1588109265818.jpg
10c0db0b-fb0d-46ba-9952-a029430a20f6_1588109324884.jpg

Just took a bunch of pics for kicks.

I think I’m going to re-do the drag link as well. It works and I can get full lock, but I measured a little off so the joints both have very limited thread engagement, about 1/2” on each, not enough to feel good about it. I’ll double check later, but I’ll probably grab some extra tube tomorrow.

Tomorrow I’m planning to take a half day and get to my buddies so we can tug weld these links up, then I can burn everything on the axle and work on the coil over mounts. Still need to gear the axle, but I’m hopeful i can wrap the rest of the front up by Friday!
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post #414 of 488 Old 04-29-2020, 10:19 AM
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Dang! Is that a 1/4" wall tube you bent with the HFT bender?
I was afraid it's gonna bust on me when I bent some 1/8"
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post #415 of 488 Old 04-29-2020, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gyaniv View Post
Dang! Is that a 1/4" wall tube you bent with the HFT bender?
I was afraid it's gonna bust on me when I bent some 1/8" [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/JeepForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_smile_big.png[/IMG]
Yep, it didn’t seem to phase it really, but I’ve heard horror stories of the dies exploding so I was a little apprehensive before starting. Didn’t deform the tube or anything though and didn’t cost anything so I’m happy enough.
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post #416 of 488 Old 05-01-2020, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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More progress; sucks that all the little things take the most time and are the least cool to look at, but it all adds up to a working rig (hopefully).

I started with the axle coilover mounts. Since nobody makes what I need it was cardboard design then plasma time. Took some time to get them to fit snug and at the correct angle, but I’m happy with them. They tie in the truss and act as a gusset.
418a3fca-9da5-4b5b-b9d1-16083c6e067e_1588377292504.jpg

I also cut the upper coilover tabs out, but changed the activity list for the day and didn’t work on them further.

Instead I invested way too much time on the front crossmember. It needed lots of attention. The link holes needed bored out, needed finish welding, needed more holes drilled, needed to sleeve the frame in one more spot. The list goes on. The biggest dilemma was the driveshaft though, it hits right where the Crossmember sits. I toyed with several ideas but settled on using a 150 degree bend piece of 1.5” .120 dom as a bridge piece that allowed the shaft to drop.

I encountered some unsurprising issues, basically the trans sits right below the crossmember in a way that I can possibly put a tube in line with the level of the existing crossmember without hitting it. The solution was to add boxes that drop the bottom of the crossmember 1.5”. Hard to explain, but here’s the pics of the end result.

68230b88-727b-4a52-8f69-bb0844155a4c_1588377399349.jpgfa1c8455-f8b2-4aae-bdaa-ac3c4dbe05c9_1588377379029.jpgde0944e1-bd8d-4b99-8cd3-c1ac93dde569_1588377335591.jpg57bfc29d-624b-480f-afeb-8c08ac3420cb_1588377320779.jpg

Lots of fighting to get it that far, but I don’t think I’ll keep it this way.. it hangs so much lower than I wanted. At this point though I’ll leave it until I can really cycle the driveshaft and see what I can get away with. If I can get away with it the plan will be to just loose the bent bar and add a straight piece between the lowered sections. I just don’t know where the shaft will sit yet.

Also finish welded the axle, did some cleanup and lots of other little bits that take time. In all it was productive!
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31ABDEEA-3E0B-42C1-A2E3-219BB862177A_1588377416910.jpg  
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post #417 of 488 Old 05-02-2020, 07:16 AM
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I like what you did with the front shock mounts. Nice work.

Can you get away without that front cross member?

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post #418 of 488 Old 05-02-2020, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
I like what you did with the front shock mounts. Nice work.

Can you get away without that front cross member?
Thanks.

That’s the debate. The idea is it would be a nice landing spot for an aluminum skid. I think the link mounts will have enough strength without the sideways support, but it does have a prime location to button the front of a skid on. I’m going to wait and cycle the suspension with a driveshaft in to see what I can get away with because it can’t stay like it it, I sacrifice too much clearance.
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post #419 of 488 Old 05-02-2020, 09:09 PM
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WOW! Just read your entire thread from #1 (not in one sitting.) I have to admit that at least 80% of it I had absolutely no idea what all of you were talking about. But I was still amazed and impressed with the knowledge and skills you all have. Expecting to acquire my first CJ5 in the next few months. However mine will be more of just rebuilding the original vehicle and not design an entire new vehicle! So when I get started it will be more of a crayon drawing than a masterpiece. Oh well, have to start somewhere. Once again, amazing work. And cannot wait to read some of the other rebuild threads.
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post #420 of 488 Old 05-02-2020, 11:00 PM
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It’s looking really good man. You will be happy you are spending the time to have attention to detail when you are done.

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