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post #361 of 450 Old 02-18-2020, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
tbunch
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More progress, the rear is getting closer. I had my buddy generously offer to tig my links for me so we knocked that out this weekend.
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Here’s my PSA: closing your eyes is not a replacement for a welding hood! I rotated the links while he did the welding, but forgot my hood so not only did I get flashed about a million times, but I got Uber burned. Half my face is a stinging bring red and my eyeballs feel like I rubbed onion in them. My wife affectionately let me know I’m an idiot. Lesson learned. We did loose 1 Heim that got bound in the threads, but it was East to fix and I’ll just replace the one.

Yesterday I got the axle put back in and all the links lined up. Then spent some time building the coilovers mounting. I built an assembly that goes across the cage and allows them to mount to the cage. Since it will be tied to the frame it will be plenty strong to hold it all. I had to adjust the whole thing once, but overall it was easy (other than my eyes watering and burning the whole time). I set the coilovers according to the advice of accutune and pirate, raked slightly in for stability and slightly forward to align with the arc of the links. I was stupid and only bought enough tabs for one side so I have to do the other side later, but the tabs are the easy part. I did cycle the one side and I think all the clearances are good. Will check again with springs on.
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post #362 of 450 Old 02-18-2020, 01:53 PM
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Nice work Tanner - and at least your jack is still yellow...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
We did loose 1 Heim that got bound in the threads, but it was East to fix and I’ll just replace the one.
I picked up a set of these monster left and right hand taps for just that reason. They were expensive, but I've built several sets of control arms and these have come in handy many times. I weld the bungs in without the joints threaded in - specifically to avoid a bound joint - and then chase the threads afterwards.
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Jeep - Coilover Suspension - Two - 7-5-2016 2632.jpg   Jeep - Coilover Suspension - Two - 7-5-2016 2631.jpg  
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post #363 of 450 Old 02-19-2020, 07:13 AM
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The upper mount looks pretty far in. You said you did some suspension cycling. I found when one side is compressed and the other drooped that shock travels vertically a lot. I would double check and make sure your shock or spring doesn't get into the frame.

I have to agree with your wife. Coming from a guy with only one eye.... treat your eyes good... idiot.
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post #364 of 450 Old 02-19-2020, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Nashville, those mega taps are very nice! I've thought a few times back to that section of your build and considered the same, for now I just used the one heim we boogered, cut 4 slots in the shank and used it as a makeshift thread chaser. If things get really bad though the local custom offroad shop has the taps and can tap them out for about $10 a piece.

Daddyjeep: I'm going to double check it with the lower spring on tonight, now that I have the other side mounted. My initial cycling seemed to keep the shock body far enough off the framerails for the springs to fit, but I will know for sure today. my constant researching has led me to believe having the coilovers leaning inboard will aide in stability and combat body roll, so that is where my direction has been. either way its very easy to change right now and would still be very easy to change if I decided it wasn't working in the future, just snip a couple tabs off and move them over.
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post #365 of 450 Old 02-20-2020, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Good news, everything clears the frame. I flexed it out and maxed it beyond what will happen in real life, ever, and I have at least 1 inch of clearance at the tightest point. Good enough for me!

Edit: looking at the pics again, it looks much closer than it is and closer than it seemed last night.. perhaps an inch is being overly zealous, but either way, even with the shocks completely drooped out I can move the spring freely up the shaft with no contact so I still have no concerns. Ill check it one more time before I burn it all in later, just for peace of mind. ce0bea86-faf8-4899-97cb-1f0ba5cdbe7c_1582211182479.jpg91dbd529-1c24-4765-9042-878ec5d27615_1582211168099.jpgdfdd24f0-3c38-492a-9185-fde443ca1e19_1582211154635.jpg
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post #366 of 450 Old 02-23-2020, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Couple things. Firstly, I double checked that spring clearance again. I can’t explain the pics, optical illusion? Either way there is nearly an inch of clearance from the frame when everything is totally maxed, so I burned it all together.

Second, I had elected to weld my rear spider gears, seemed cheap and easy. All seemed well, until I put it back in the case. There was a minor gap between the cross pin and the case half (very minor) being anxious, I decided torquing the ring gear would close that gap and threw it all together.. did it close the gap? By appearances yes, when I went to set the gears up?... nope. I had between 0 and .010 backlash and binding in some places. It seemed so minor, but with specs this small it all matters. So out the carrier came and I took it apart. Now deciding how to proceed. Probably just gonna buy a cheap mini spool for now.
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This was a bummer since I have everything painted and ready to roll. Once the gears are setup I can final install the rear axle.

Beyond that, lots of painting, pressing and pulling bearings and lots of boring stuff, but it all has to get done!
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post #367 of 450 Old 03-11-2020, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Haven’t been updating much, but the work continues. The rear axle is totally done. Finally got the rear spool to replace the warped ball of mess, all was within spec, about 1thou of total runout, I can live with it.
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Setup the gears, brakes, etc, fully assembled, sealed and painted it. Ready to bolt in. All new bearings, seals, etc. pretty pleased with the outcome.
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Going to be running mostly stainless braided AN limes for the brakes so I’m gather bits for that.

Also did most of the final welding on the cage, need to add a couple more lateral supports and gussets, then I can pull it to get the tiny parts I can’t reach, paint it and raptor line the back half of the tub. Then I can bolt it in, tie it to the frame and be done with that.

I. The meantime I’m sourcing the components for the front axle and starting to get the front 3 link mapped out.

This has turned into way more of a project than I originally budgeted, financially and time wise, motivation comes and goes, but I am excited for the finished product. Hopefully if I stay on track I can have it all buttoned up and useable by early summer. Realistic deadline is mid June now, but we will see how that goes.

Sorry for the slow updates, but there isn’t much to show most of the time, just the boring bits that nobody thinks about. Bearings, gear setup, painting etc.

Last little bit was working on the front axle and problem solving, despite my best efforts on the u-joint replacement, the ear bent on one inner shaft just slightly, I devised this with a 1" bolt and a 1"ID collar with some elbow grease to span it back out the 30 tho's to fit the joint back in correctly, worked like a charm.
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post #368 of 450 Old 03-11-2020, 04:02 PM
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If that was a Snap-On axle-shaft-ear-spreader that tool would have cost you $300...

Nice work as usual, Tanner.

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post #369 of 450 Old 03-11-2020, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
If that was a Snap-On axle-shaft-ear-spreader that tool would have cost you $300..
That’s the truth. It only needed a few thou more, the plan is to go to chromo shafts once funds allow so these only need to last so long anyways, but I wasn’t ready to buy new shafts over such a small problem, or to heat them up and cause other issues. 16lb sledge just wasn’t the right approach with this one (I tried though).
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post #370 of 450 Old 03-18-2020, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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So things have been interesting lately to say the least. The world is sinking into anarchy and I’m just trying to make sure I have enough steel to keep building when everything shuts down.

On that note I picked up some brackets and steel to move the fro t end along. Nice to have Artec across the street!
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Then I’ve somehow been talked into more changes.. bottom line is to make the front end work as I want it to I needed to move the axle forward a few inches. This would allow good link length for where I need to mount them on the frame, without interference with the steering box. So, bottom line is I cut the front off the Jeep now..
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I don’t think I regret it, but I am really not excited this adds more time to the whole thing. But in the end it will let me have better geometry, tuck my steering gear up tight to the frame, and give me like 4” more wheelbase. Hoping to land at 110-112 total.

Then, since the world shutting down for a virus isn’t enough, I woke up this morning to a 5.7 earthquake shaking the whole house. Honestly like nothing I’ve ever felt, really quite scary! (Been feeling aftershocks all day). I was removed and shocked that through all that my precariously balances Jeep stayed on the jackstands. It’s very too heavy with no axles to counterbalance it.
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Scary stuff, now my goal is just to finish this thing before the world ends!
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post #371 of 450 Old 03-21-2020, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Moving on, first I got some shiny goods for the front axle, decided I was a cheap-o by trying to re-use the worn and rusted brake rotors and unit bearings so I bit the bullet and replaced them. Got the new rotors staked on and ready to go on the axle.
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I also had the steering arms bored out to 3/4” for the bolts I’m using for the Heims, then cleaned and painted. Picked up a ruff stuff fabbed diff cover and did the rest of the axle shaft assembly.

Then continued with the front surgery. I found some 3/16 rectangular tube that was a close fit to the inside of the stock frame rail. I built some spacers that I welded on in order to make the whole thing a very tight fit, then plug welded and welded the outside.

Then cut some 3/16 rectangular tube that fit snugly over the short tube that were in the stock frame and closely matched the stock frame dimensions. I used my old steering box mount as a template, and found the remainder of the 3/8 plate I made it from and scavenged just enough to make a new mounting plate. Did some welding, sleeving, cutting etc and eventually came up with this.

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This was all planned out, but it moves the steering box about 5” forward while only extending the frame by about 3” so it doesn’t look ridiculous.this should allow me about 4” of front WB stretch. This also let me stuff the gearbox about 2-3” higher behind the front bumper. The cylinder sat very low and exposed before so this is a big plus. With it mocked in place I think the drag link geometry will be about perfect. This will also free up space for the track bar.

I still have to attach a piece of square tube that will replace the radiator support mount, then I can add some bracing for the winch plate, add the winch plate and fairlead mount, then it will be easy to add the radiator roll bar and stinger right on. Oh, also add some recovery points that I’m waiting for in the mail, sounds like a lot, but really this is turning out very easy and quick. Then onto the front links.
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post #372 of 450 Old 03-23-2020, 09:33 AM
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The frame extension turned out really nice. It sure must be nice to work from a clean slate so you can put things exactly where they need to be versus compromising around a stock frame.

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post #373 of 450 Old 03-23-2020, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
The frame extension turned out really nice. It sure must be nice to work from a clean slate so you can put things exactly where they need to be versus compromising around a stock frame.
It sure is. I’ll get some other pics of it all welded in, but basically it’s all fully welded and then plated over the top with a piece the basically intersects with the frame reinforcement plates I originally added. Would have been nice if I had planned to do this originally just to have those frame plates be one continuous piece but hindsight is 20/20 so.

On the note of putting things where I want, it has been a huge plus. I got the steering box mocked in and out a few times and welded the winch plate and angle iron reinforcements. It will be plenty stout. Clearances are extremely tight for the steering box, but it works perfect.
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The steering box is nice and out of the way and the winch plate sits flat. I had to drill 1 hole to allow for the top of the box to poke up, the cut a recess where the fittings will come out. The angle iron is shaped around the box just right and those 2 pieces of angle are .25 thick and line up with the winch mounting holes so it will bolt through both the angle iron and the .25 winch plate. It’s all welded basically everywhere. Nothing should be going anywhere.

Need to figure out a custom high pressure line now. In the meantime, I’m going to get the radiator roll bar and the stinger on and build a fairlead mount. Overall I like it.
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post #374 of 450 Old 03-23-2020, 08:18 PM
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I donít think thatís going anywhere. Beef.

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post #375 of 450 Old 03-24-2020, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
I don’t think that’s going anywhere. Beef.
Thanks, better not go anywhere or I’ve got real issues.

Did a little more on it tonight and yesterday. Winch plate is welded on top and bottoms. Then I added the grill roll bar. It came out a little wider than it should have since I was using the old winch plate stuff so I made some little wings to mount it on and gussetted them.
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Played with front axle location and mocked up the tires to get an idea of wheelbase. Won’t know until it’s alone there for real, but it’s looking like110 wb. Happy with that.
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Then I cleaned up a bit and made this little winch gaurd/bull bar. Not sure I love it. I like it, but not love. Probably just gonna leave it though. Add some tubes that go up to the grill guard to tie it all in. Thoughts are welcome here. It’s just tacked for now.

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Also got some Artec swag from my buddies over there for lending my trailer out. Good dudes!
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It’s a good time to be stuck at home!
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