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post #301 of 365 Old 11-22-2019, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
tbunch
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Haven’t had much of a chance to get too much done... should be getting my welder back from my buddy today or tomorrow. He’s getting me a killer deal on my air shocks and is a genius with a tube bender and helping me in the cage and tig welding the exhaust so I can’t complain.

Did get some chopping done and got the tub extension roughed-in. It still needs a little cleanup so I can have good weld seams, but it’s a taste of where it’s heading.

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It gets me pretty excited. Still lots to do, but I like the length. I’ve got to decide what to do with the tailgate now. Because I raised the framerails the tub sinks below the bumper. That was fine for the old tub end, but with the tailgate I have to remove the hinges to get it to sit right. Debating leaving it off completely, with the fuel cell “exposed” or just welding the tailgate on. Open to ideas.

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post #302 of 365 Old 11-22-2019, 03:16 PM
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I think the fuel cell, if mounted right up against the tailgate, will negate the functionality of the tailgate anyway. So I don't think you would loose anything if you welded it up smooth.

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post #303 of 365 Old 11-22-2019, 03:35 PM
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I have confidence that you can figure out how to make the tailgate work. I think it needs to be there.

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post #304 of 365 Old 11-22-2019, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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I think there’s truth to both sides. I definitely like the look of it, but there would indeed be no functionality to it with the cell mounted right there. I have no doubt I could make it “work”, but. I think I’m leaning towards welding it on, rather than on a hinge, just for appearances sake.
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post #305 of 365 Old 11-25-2019, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Sooo... The fun continues. it seems I wasn't done finding the damage I'd done to the ol girl yet. after disassembling the passenger side and pulling the shafts and knuckles I started looking closer at the driver side inner C... and yup.. its bent.. even with gusseting on the inside. what seems to have happened is that it bent the edge of the the upper ball joint hole (Same place where the knuckle bent) and elongated the hole and screwed up the angle a hair. I spent a second yesterday heating and hammering the knuckle back into shape, but now the threading for the upper ball joint adjuster is pretty ruined. So what to do..?

I've fortunately got 2 things in the works. first, I'm going to see if I can tap the ball joint hole for starters. About 2/3 of it are fine if I thread an insert in from the bottom, but the top is really badly deformed. I may be able to salvage it, but if its bent its bent, and I may never get my axle to track right. I tossed around the idea of upgrading to HD inner C's, but I really don't want to have to cut it all apart and be out another $500 on C's.

So second to that, I just found a local guy with a full width Chevy D44 housing. Its actually complete up to the knuckles, he wants $100. its got the correct passenger side drop and I can throw all of my outer's onto it, no problem. I already need shafts, so I lose nothing extra there (Same price). No idea what gears are in it, but if it matches then I'm in business, if not then I'll setup the gears from my old housing, no problem. The only downer is I'll have to rebuild my truss, gusseting and possibly cut and turn the inner C's as well. The positive is it will have thicker tubes and its wider. 5" wider to be exact. I'm not changing the rear at this point, so I've debated running 1.5-2" spacers to get it matched, or, just leaving it narrow like some of the old school comp crawlers, which would also gain me turning radius.

Another plus is that, if (when) I do end up replacing the rear axle with a selection of 1ton options (14bolt would be perfect!) I can just swap the outers on the front to 3/4 ton with a 8lug pattern, gain 2 more inches of width and not have to change the axle. That's appealing to the wallet because I wont have to swap 2 axles, steering, brakes, and everything all at the same time.

While Its a bummer to find more damage, I think it will end up being better overall. Sorry for the all words post, but I've gotta put my thoughts down.
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post #306 of 365 Old 11-25-2019, 12:07 PM
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Sounds like you have a good plan. I have been contemplating axles a lot myself lately. I may have a line on a spare Ford D44 so I can at least have another set of shafts. I have been considering SD axles a lot lately too.

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post #307 of 365 Old 11-25-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
Sounds like you have a good plan. I have been contemplating axles a lot myself lately. I may have a line on a spare Ford D44 so I can at least have another set of shafts. I have been considering SD axles a lot lately too.
I've considered the SD axles as well, but you'd think they were cast from solid gold around here. most are asking 1500 for a pair that are basically junk. Stack onto that new steering, upgraded brake components, new gears, lockers, driveshafts, new wheels and thus tires.. I think I'd be in the 5-7k range to do it right, and that's doing all the labor myself. I can beef the hell out of this 44, then if the rear axle cant keep up it'll be cheap (er) to swap in a 14bolt, and wont require me to miss a whole season of wheeling . The hard balance is doing things as good as I can while still trying to keep the downtime to a minimum... I like to drive it haha.
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post #308 of 365 Old 11-25-2019, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
Debating leaving it off completely, with the fuel cell “exposed” or just welding the tailgate on. Open to ideas.
Something my brother did to his Jeep: he has a swing out tire carrier so he attached the tailgate to the back of the spare tire carrier. So tailgate is not attached to the tub but when the swing out shuts it plugs the tailgate "hole".
He lives abroad so don't have pics but it looks cool. At a glace you can't tell the tailgate is not attached to the tub.
Not sure if you're planning a swing out carrier but it might be a solution.
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post #309 of 365 Old 11-26-2019, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
I've considered the SD axles as well, but you'd think they were cast from solid gold around here. most are asking 1500 for a pair that are basically junk. Stack onto that new steering, upgraded brake components, new gears, lockers, driveshafts, new wheels and thus tires.. I think I'd be in the 5-7k range to do it right, and that's doing all the labor myself. I can beef the hell out of this 44, then if the rear axle cant keep up it'll be cheap (er) to swap in a 14bolt, and wont require me to miss a whole season of wheeling . The hard balance is doing things as good as I can while still trying to keep the downtime to a minimum... I like to drive it haha.
Holy cow that's expensive for SD axles! At that point just build a 14 bolt front. You should make a trip to the south east and buy a bunch of SD60's then resell them up there. I have seen them as cheap as $200 here.

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post #310 of 365 Old 11-26-2019, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gyaniv View Post
Something my brother did to his Jeep: he has a swing out tire carrier so he attached the tailgate to the back of the spare tire carrier. So tailgate is not attached to the tub but when the swing out shuts it plugs the tailgate "hole".
He lives abroad so don't have pics but it looks cool. At a glace you can't tell the tailgate is not attached to the tub.
Not sure if you're planning a swing out carrier but it might be a solution.
That's a cool idea, thanks for the suggestion. At this point I am not sure ill be running a spare or not. I didn't last year. The main reason being its bulky and most of the wheeling I do it would be dragged on the rocks. Also, I haven't decided on final tire size yet. But I am definitely keeping that in mind before I wend anything into place permanently.
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post #311 of 365 Old 11-26-2019, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
Holy cow that's expensive for SD axles! At that point just build a 14 bolt front. You should make a trip to the south east and buy a bunch of SD60's then resell them up there. I have seen them as cheap as $200 here.
Yeah, that's Utah for you. people go pull stuff like this from junkyards as soon as its posted, I've never seen a single one in the junkyards, just like I've never seen anything but a WJ or maybe a ZJ in them either. Just grab a couple $200 ones and meet me in Moab once my rigs done, haha.
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post #312 of 365 Old 12-02-2019, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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So... uh.. well.. I did a thing..

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So here’s the skinny: I had a plan in place to replace the front 44 housing with a new, full width one, then transfer everything over, rebuild everything and space the rear wheels. I went and bought said new housing, he loaded it up in a blizzard, I was fixated on the knuckles and inner C’s when he did so. Got it home and guess what.. it’s a 10 bolt.. I’m an idiot and my plans were foiled. (Luckily it was almost free so..)

Add to this the fact that for upgraded C’s, knuckles, shafts etc for the 44 I was looking at over $1700, and I’d still have a 44. So, I made an emotionally charged decision that I was done with the BS, talked with a buddy and decided to go for it.
He had offered to sell me his superduty axles from his buggy build at an incredible price, but after doing some thinking I decided the superduty’s with being driver drop were more trouble than it was worth. So I found a local guy selling this set off a dodge. He had them built for his buggy, but they weren’t done. Price was OK, but really too much.

As soon as I bought that I found a listing for a set of 40” nittos. Paid 650 and I was in business.

Then, to make matters worse, I got to thinking about the rear axle I just bought and concluded that the 30 spline toothpicks in the rear 60 were pathetic.. so now that ones for sale and I bought a 14 bolt for super cheap, with a few extras. (Haven’t picked it up yet). So now I own 6 axles..

Needless to say I haven’t gotten much work done, been lots of driving around to get stuff, making deals, assessing parts situations and making sure my mind is set before I move on. Financially this all hurts, wife’s not to pleased, but in the end, once all the old stuff is sold I should make out pretty good. Plus I won’t have to worry as much about breaking everything. I’ll update the real plan once I’ve had a minute to know what that is for sure haha, but for now it’s tons, rear linked on airshocks, 107”WB, 40’s, 10” tub stretch and full cage tied to the frame in 10 places.
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post #313 of 365 Old 12-02-2019, 09:14 PM
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So if you have 6 axles and one jeep. Then what you need is 2 more jeeps rite?
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its a rusty one

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post #314 of 365 Old 12-02-2019, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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So if you have 6 axles and one jeep. Then what you need is 2 more jeeps rite?
Hey, now that’s a great idea! Though, a 10 bolt front And Dana 60 rear might be an odd combo...
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post #315 of 365 Old 12-03-2019, 08:07 AM
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Hey, now that’s a great idea! Though, a 10 bolt front And Dana 60 rear might be an odd combo...


Just make that Jeep a two wheel drive sand rail...

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