Tanners 79 CJ5 Build - Page 16 - JeepForum.com
 11Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #226 of 233 Old 04-15-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
tbunch
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: North Salt Lake
Posts: 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett86 View Post
I've used cheap flaring tools before and they are crap. I have a snap on(blue point) one and its night and day difference. It wasn't that expensive when I bought it. But that was 15yrs ago. I don't know what kind of line you have but the copper nickel line (I believe that's what its called) flares great and is easily bendable.
The nickle-copper line is what I have been using for the whole system, great stuff. The issue is using the cheap rental flaring tool. I know on a few of the fittings I was off center no matter what I did. I also know I wasn't lubricating the tube or dies which was likely contributing to it going wonky. The new one that I ordered is an in-line style that keeps it all centered and has stops so you don't over-tighten. It was pretty cheap because it only does 3/16 line, fortunately that's all I need. As much as I'm tempted to leave it as is and just hope it wont leak, I'm also smart enough to realize that will create much more work than just doing it now and making sure its right, just kills me to backtrack when i'm already feeling behind.

tbunch is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #227 of 233 Old 04-15-2019, 06:56 PM
lovett86
Registered User
 
lovett86's Avatar
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: brantford
Posts: 1,448
You don't need to lube any of it. You don't want the line sliding threw the tool while your flaring it. I can flare some line at work tommorow and posts some pics if you want. I have my regular kit and another guy has a different one like you ordered

its a rusty one

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
lovett86 is offline  
post #228 of 233 Old 04-16-2019, 09:58 AM
NashvilleTJ
I miss the snow...
 
NashvilleTJ's Avatar
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Nashville
Posts: 3,243
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbunch View Post
The nickle-copper line is what I have been using for the whole system, great stuff. The issue is using the cheap rental flaring tool. I know on a few of the fittings I was off center no matter what I did. I also know I wasn't lubricating the tube or dies which was likely contributing to it going wonky. The new one that I ordered is an in-line style that keeps it all centered and has stops so you don't over-tighten. It was pretty cheap because it only does 3/16 line, fortunately that's all I need. As much as I'm tempted to leave it as is and just hope it wont leak, I'm also smart enough to realize that will create much more work than just doing it now and making sure its right, just kills me to backtrack when i'm already feeling behind.


The bigger issue is that if you donít get it to your satisfaction now, you will never stop worrying that it will start to leak - even if it never does. And itís never a bad day when you buy a new tool.

Build Thread:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Swing Away / Swing Down Tire Carrier:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
NashvilleTJ is offline  
 
post #229 of 233 Old 04-16-2019, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
tbunch
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: North Salt Lake
Posts: 255
Lovett, my understanding is that the edge of the die and the tip of the tube should be lightly lubed with brake fluid so that it can rotate which helps in keeping it straight. Either way the new tool should be here tomorrow and if it works as designed is should be an easy fix. I disconnected all the fittings last night and inspected. there are a couple I will leave alone because they look really good. I actually did several lines before I found the motor was bad, I spent lots of time on those making sure they were perfect with lots of practice. Then it was 2 months before I got back at it and I didn't re-practice, just rushed in, that where I went wrong.

Nashville, your absolutely right, its the always wondering if something will start leaking at the worst time thats the killer, even if it never does. Its also true about the tools, the only tools I ever regret are the ones I cheaped out on, and thats only because I regret not getting the better one from the get-go.
tbunch is offline  
post #230 of 233 Old 04-18-2019, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
tbunch
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: North Salt Lake
Posts: 255
So I got my Flaring tool last night, but since ordering it I had decided to dive into wiring my electric cooling fans so I thought I'd share that process. Overall it has been smooth. There are so many ways to wire electric fans that just deciding on my method has been the most challenging part. I have to swap just a couple moor wires and loom up the bundles and its good to go. The fans I settled on were the dual ford contour fan setup. These are nearly an exact fit for the cj radiator and were a spot on fit with the upgraded 3row aluminum rad. Many people pull them from junkyards, I decided for 80 bucks I could get a brand new set and not worry if the motors would work or not. I did pull the harness from a junkyard car though, since buying the harness is not an option and the connectors alone cost as much as the fans. I went on a half off day in the snow and paid like $5 for the whole harness.

The attached pic is the wiring setup I devised.


it probably looks messy, I'm not much for drawing diagrams, but the idea is simple. it uses 3 relays, one 3 position switch and a BMW dual temp switch. The way it is wired I have 3 options activated by the switch. 1 is automatic; this uses the low and high temp switch to ground 2 relays that independently run the high and low fan settings and are triggered by the switch. This leaves the fans off until it gets to 180 I think then turns them to low, then at 195 (I think) it turns on the high fan setting. My other option bypasses that whole circuit and can independently run the fans on high. This is really a fail-safe for if the temp sensor fails or if a relay fails. It also gives me the option to run the fans with the vehicle off. That could be useful in an overheat situation where I need to shutoff the vehicle, or even just if its running hot when I am ready to turn it off. the 3rd option lets me turn off the whole circuit completely and so the fans wont run, maybe good for water crossings.

I soldered everything last night and have it tested in the vehicle. As I said, I had to make a change for a misconception I had on how the temp switch works, that change is reflected in the diagram. Overall, I'm happy with this setup. I like that it can run dual speeds automatically and that I was able to completely skip a fan controller. Everything I read just seemed to indicate they are the main cause of electric fan failures. Hopefully fused relays will provide a more fail resistant setup.
Attached Thumbnails
Fan Wiring.jpg  
tbunch is offline  
post #231 of 233 Old 04-19-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
tbunch
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: North Salt Lake
Posts: 255
So today was supposed to be the beginning of the end. Things didn’t turn out quite as I’d hoped though, although.. technically, it did move under its own power, but the joy was short lived.
94590815-8a6a-4ead-8d28-17b192e2fba5_1555736972303.jpg

First was the brakes. This proved to be the utter bane of my existence today. As previously mentioned I decided to re-flare several fittings, my results seemed promising. After double checking everything I filled it up and that’s where the trouble started. First was my rear t-fitting. All I can say is it must have been manufactured wrong because try as I may it would not seal, just poured out like a leaking faucet. Trip to the store, replaced it and problem solved.

Then after snugging up various seeping fittings and closing those off I had one line off of the prop valve that would not seal. I re-flared it twice, not were (in my opinion) excellent flares, nothing. It was like they weren’t even contacting the male flare, just poured out. I decided to say screw it and bought a short length of pre-flared line and a compression fitting. Still not sure why it was leaking, but this cured it.

Then on to bleeding which was the next nightmare. I turned the first rear bleeder screw and it snapped off flush with almost no pressure. Crap.. so I moved to the other side, soaked in penetrating oil, heated it up and tried.. same thing, snapped off. I started to drill and got an easy out in, which promptly slipped and screwed the threads. I was over it by then. Hopped in the car and dropped $150 on 2 new calipers without a second thought.

Got the calipers on and eventually got the system bled enough to have some stopping power. There is still some seeping, but I decided to chase it later since my only objective was to test drive it today. So I did just that. Zip tied the E-brake cables and the winch wires and started it up. Had to run and get gas since I probably had less than a quart in it.

Started it up and it seemed to run fine. So I put it in gear with some difficulty, seems the clutch still needs more bleeding. Then pulled out. All seemed well till I straightened out and put it in first. It drove ok for about 10yards then, but as soon as I gave it fade it stumbled like a drunk, had no acceleration and promptly died in the middle of the road and wouldn’t re-start. I had to rally the neighborhood to push it down the block and back up the driveway into the garage.

I pulled some codes and I have 3: Evap system (it’s all gone), battery temp sensor (also gone) and, the likely winner: crank/cam sensor signal missing. I was so done with it by the time it was in the garage that I haven’t checked for spark, but I know I have fuel pressure, maybe even too much at 60psi, not sure what running issues that would cause, but it’s possible it’s flooding it. If the crank signal is causing a no spark condition then I had probably also soaked the plugs. Weird that it ran at idle but died when accelerating.

Either way, I’m kinda done with it for a minute. I spent 11hours straight on it today and feel I made no progress. Need to take some time to clean the house and get the shop back in order. It’ll get done, but it’s kinda pissing me off today.
d8d8a4bd-72c4-46fe-91c5-937c2fe580b7_1555736851805.jpg
tbunch is offline  
post #232 of 233 Old Yesterday, 08:28 AM
lovett86
Registered User
 
lovett86's Avatar
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: brantford
Posts: 1,448
Days like that happen. Don't let it get to you. For future help heat up the bleeder screw until its red hot and blast it with water to cool it. Do that 3 times then loosen it off. If it brakes weld a nut to it and back it out.

its a rusty one

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
lovett86 is offline  
post #233 of 233 Old Yesterday, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
tbunch
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: North Salt Lake
Posts: 255
That’s the truth. I’m being a little hard on myself since I originally set out to have it done by this weekend. Although I also have to be honest with myself that the goal didn’t account for a motor rebuild and swap, but still, lol.

As for the bleeders, I had no trouble with the front ones after using just a propane torch. Shoulda pulled out the oxy torch for the rear. That said, they snapped off like breaking a toothpick, I’ve undone many a bleeder screw, I think they must have had water in them and rusted, it was weird.

As for the rest, I’ll get over it and figure it out. Just have to gather my thoughts.
tbunch is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome