Stumpfarming's 73' CJ5 Build - Page 86 - JeepForum.com
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post #1276 of 1365 Old 03-10-2021, 05:46 PM
GraySkies
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Any luck getting the electrical issues sorted out?


Michael
Western Washington
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post #1277 of 1365 Old 03-10-2021, 07:48 PM
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For some reason my first look at your build the pictures were not showing up on my computer. I recently went on vacation and spent the plane ride to and back from Florida reading through your build. Lots of great information and ideas. I have a goal of a 3 year (by the time I turn 50) build but after readying yours I think I might have my hands full. Lucky for me I run a bodyshop so some of the hard work I have direct contacts and resources with. I will more than likely try and share my build when I get started much like you have. I think this is a great resource for sharing information and getting great feedback and help. I found most of the photos I was looking for so disregard my previous post.

I'm trying to decide which type of chevy engine to go with 350 carb (old school) or LS modern. I love the look of the old school but like the idea of the LS too. I own a 2004 Z06 with the LS6 which I would love to put the same engine in but still in the early research stage. Decisions decisions decisions. I'm curious your thoughts on why you chose the type engine you did and if you would do it again. Obviously with the issues your having now this may not be the time to inquire but any feedback you have would be welcomed.
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post #1278 of 1365 Old 03-10-2021, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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I'm curious your thoughts on why you chose the type engine you did and if you would do it again. Obviously with the issues your having now this may not be the time to inquire but any feedback you have would be welcomed.
Thanks for the reply. There are several folks here on the forum that have been instrumental in the success of my build. My decision to go with a small block GM motor was made almost 8 years ago. A lot of people have started to put LS engines in Jeep’s since then. It was not as common at the time. I called Novak to consider my options, and the feedback I got was that a GM small block would be the most affordable and easiest to do, after all, I was starting with an empty body and chassis. I also knew NOTHING about engines at the time, and I was told a GM was one of the easiest to learn on. I have learned a lot.

In hindsight I have no regrets. I traded a $300 chainsaw for my engine with a SM465 and a transfer case attached. I sold the tranny for $300 and the t-case for $125. It worked out OK for me However, if I had to do it over again I may also have considered a GM 4.3L from an S-10 pickup. The computer stuff intimidated me at the time, so I compromised with a carburetor just to get myself on the road. I think a late model 4.3L would have been a great fit for my project.

Power brakes will be in my future. 4.10 gears would probably be a better fit for my set-up, but the 3.73’s work fine and regearing is not worth it. The terra low 3.15:1 transfer case upgrade would also be a good fit, but at 1/4 the cost the Bronco gear/Dana 18 2.5:1 conversion I did was worth it. 33’s are a great fit for this Jeep (and I will explain more about that in another post).

Cheers!

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post #1279 of 1365 Old 03-10-2021, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Any luck getting the electrical issues sorted out?
I charged the battery overnight. It was at 12v this am, and stayed that way all day until I got home from work. My neighbor (the diesel mechanic) came over after work with some electrical tools. We tested every circuit and found no draw. I am thinking there may be a short in the switch relating to the dimmer for the dash lights. They have been flickering on me lately, but we could not reproduce a draw from it tonight.

It started up just fine, and the computer was obviously working on getting itself to idle at 800 rpm where I have it set to idle. All systems seem “normal”. I think the computer was running the rpm so high last night in response to the low battery. The AGM wall charger was probably a better way to bring it back to life rather than 14+v from the alternator (Optima Yellow Top deep cycle).

So far, all system seem “normal.” I am leaving the battery connected tonight and will check it in the morning to if it has drawn down at all. I ordered a new headlight switch just in case. It will be here tomorrow.
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post #1280 of 1365 Old 03-10-2021, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Over the weekend I discovered that the rubber boot for the slip joint at the base of the steering column was torn. Like most, I’m not impressed with the quality of rubber that comes with Crown products, but sometimes we compromise out of convenience. The new boot and assembly kit came today and I got it installed. I packed the boot full of grease before final assembly.
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post #1281 of 1365 Old 03-11-2021, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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I charged the battery overnight. It was at 12v this am, and stayed that way all day until I got home from work. My neighbor (the diesel mechanic) came over after work with some electrical tools. We tested every circuit and found no draw. I am thinking there may be a short in the switch relating to the dimmer for the dash lights. They have been flickering on me lately, but we could not reproduce a draw from it tonight.

It started up just fine, and the computer was obviously working on getting itself to idle at 800 rpm where I have it set to idle. All systems seem “normal”. I think the computer was running the rpm so high last night in response to the low battery. The AGM wall charger was probably a better way to bring it back to life rather than 14+v from the alternator (Optima Yellow Top deep cycle).

So far, all system seem “normal.” I am leaving the battery connected tonight and will check it in the morning to if it has drawn down at all. I ordered a new headlight switch just in case. It will be here tomorrow.
The Jeep was still at 12v this am. It started and idled as it should, so I decided to drive it in to work. So far, so good! The new switch should arrive this afternoon.

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post #1282 of 1365 Old 03-11-2021, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Notice anything funny about my fenders in these pictures? It’s not an illusion, the sides of my fenders are actually “rounded” out a bit. Apparently my front tires rub harder than I thought at full flex and they have caught the sheet metal underneath and rolled it out a bit. Pretty sure they have been that way since my Moab trip in October and I just now noticed it.

Over the weekend I also noticed that my tie rod had been contacting my frame on the driver side when flexed, so I added a 1/2” bump stop spacer. I may have already solved my fender rubbing problem with this fix I’ll wash, rinse, and repeat on the other side too and see if that helps. Tube fenders may be in my future, but it pains me a bit to think about “altering” the look of my classic CJ.

33’s are a great fit for my set-up. I have 4” YJ springs in the rear and the equivalent of 3.25” lift springs/shackles in the front and I am easily stuffing the tires to the max. I love driving my “classic” car and have accepted the reality that this is a CJ5. It is a capable rig for what it is and the wheeling I want to do with it, but in the end it’s a CJ5 that I want to keep a CJ5 (The light bar and wider axles are an exception. ) I don’t need to do the hardest obstacles, but rather enjoy simply having it on the trail. I think it does that. As my experience driving off road progresses, keeping my CJ5 as a CJ5 just gives me an excuse to build something else more capable.
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post #1283 of 1365 Old 03-11-2021, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Stumpfarming View Post
Tube fenders may be in my future, but it pains me a bit to think about “altering” the look of my classic CJ.

As my experience driving off road progresses, keeping my CJ5 as a CJ5 just gives me an excuse to build something else more capable.
Agree totally with this sentiment. If you want to hack something up for increased capability, you are certainly free to do that with your own vehicle, but my personal sympathies would be much more aligned with getting something later model/more common to hack up, and leave the classic... classic.
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post #1284 of 1365 Old 03-11-2021, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Agree totally with this sentiment. If you want to hack something up for increased capability, you are certainly free to do that with your own vehicle, but my personal sympathies would be much more aligned with getting something later model/more common to hack up, and leave the classic... classic.
I saw a post on another forum where someone was considering 37's on their CJ5. My first thought was, "Holy Moses, it's only a CJ5! That's 74" of tire for an 84" wheel base!" but my actual response was "Be prepared to cut sheet metal..... (a lot of sheet metal)" With the rubbing I am having with 33's I can't imagine the issues that guy would have to work through. I'm sure it would start with a wheelbase stretch, but if that's the case, then why not start with something already longer. But then again, if the sheet metal is already bad......

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post #1285 of 1365 Old 03-12-2021, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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We gave the Sniper EFI a field test on the trails at Tahuya State Forest today. Thanks to Grayskies for help diagnosing an issue that revealed itself. After a long, steep & winding climb I noticed my temperature slowly climbing from the usual 180’s into the 190’s. When it got closer towards 200 degrees my EFI started to sputter and I noticed the air/fuel ratio display flashing at me. The Jeep then died right in the middle of the trail and I could not get it restarted right away. We popped the hood and Grayskies pointed out my fuel delivery line crossing over an upper coolant line, potentially heating the fuel in the line and leaning out the EFI system. We did our best trail fix to pull the line away from the heat source using bailing wire, but that was only moderately successful. I suspect I will need to re-route the line to solve the issue. We were forced to make many similar stops throughout the day. Each time it happened the Air/Fuel ratio would climb from 13-14 into the 30’s as the engine would Sputter. This has not been an issue at highway speeds so far, so it caught me by surprise. Glad I have time to fix it before leaving on my trip in another week. Thanks Grayskies! 👍
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post #1286 of 1365 Old 03-13-2021, 10:06 AM
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There are also companies that make insulation sleeves for wires and hoses to keep them cool.
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post #1287 of 1365 Old 03-13-2021, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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There are also companies that make insulation sleeves for wires and hoses to keep them cool.
Yep, I already have one I am putting on now. Thanks!

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post #1288 of 1365 Old 03-13-2021, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Is it odd that my alternator would be warm this morning when I haven't driven the Jeep in over 14 hours?

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post #1289 of 1365 Old 03-13-2021, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Here’s a before and after of the fuel delivery line. I think the braided stainless covered line could have helped conduct some heat too, so I swapped it out for standard rubber fuel hose (which came with my Sniper kit). I rerouted the line away from the alternator and upper heater hose and added a heat shield cover.

While doing this I noticed that the alternator was warm, even though I hadn’t driven the Jeep in over 14 hours. Perhaps I found the source of my battery draw? Maybe an internal short? Perhaps the alternator was excessively hot yesterday too, adding to the fuel issue? I will be swapping out my alternator next.
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post #1290 of 1365 Old 03-13-2021, 04:55 PM
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I know it’s cold where you are, Stump, and I’ve heard of block heaters - but an alternator heater?



Yeah, sure sounds like a short there somewhere.
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