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post #31 of 76 Old 04-28-2017, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
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2 weekends ago I installed YJ brake lines since the Savvy skid allowed more droop. They're a direct replacement to the TJ lines except 2" longer and come off the caliper at a different angle.




Building the right way for 37s.
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post #32 of 76 Old 05-01-2017, 01:30 PM
uhohthe50
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
2 weekends ago I installed YJ brake lines since the Savvy skid allowed more droop. They're a direct replacement to the TJ lines except 2" longer and come off the caliper at a different angle.

Coming from previously owning a yj, that's the first time I've heard of a part that people were using from YJ's on newer jeeps. I always was taking parts from TJ's to put on my YJ!

My 1990 YJ Build Thread: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/might-well-start-build-thread-now-my-1990-yj-1291174/
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post #33 of 76 Old 07-10-2017, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
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In April I went to Drummond Island MI again for Jeep the Mac and the Spring Jeep Migration. Having the lift on the Jeep was noticeably better than last year. I was able to tackle obstacles this trip that I was only able to watch last year.







Some carnage from a underwater rock pile on the front Barnett diff cover:



Overall it was a great trip and I plan to be back next year!

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #34 of 76 Old 07-10-2017, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
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I installed the Savvy/Currie Ultimate Steering. I drove it for a few weeks without a stabilizer and this steering has solved the slight wheel vibration I was experiencing even after roadforce balancing my tires.



While the steering was great without a stabilizer I did install one back in since it should take some force off of the steering box. The stock stabilizer doesn't fit the Currie drag link so I also put in a Monroe SC2928 steering stabilizer. My stock one was a bit loose after 80k miles anyway.


(Yes, I slid the boot up after adjusting the stabilizer.)

Shortly after installing this upgraded steering my driver's side caliper locked up. I have been telling myself I will be upgrading to Black Magic Brakes when they go so that time has finally come. Since the knuckles will need to be replace I figured I should also replace the old unit bearings and balljoints and I've been telling myself that when I need to replace those I might as well replace my axles because the shafts on the drivers side are a little twisted along with the ears making u-joint replacement nearly impossible. And while I'm replacing the axles I might as well upgrade them and might as well upgrade to a high pinion design. Long story short, a bunch of goodies will be arriving over the next month or two.

I scored a steel on some Rigid Truck-Lite heated LED headlights. A little die-electric grease and they fit right in. I haven't had a change to run them at night yet but I hear good things.



And my hood support rod clip broke so I popped a new one in. If anyone is looking for this part it's J4007456 for the TJs with the plastic clip.


Building the right way for 37s.
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post #35 of 76 Old 07-10-2017, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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I washed the soft top first with Dawn dish soap and a bristle brush to cut any grease or oils but that didn't wash much of the embedded dirt out. So I used the Raggtopp Fabric Complete Kit from Autogeek. I was super impressed with this kit. The RaggTopp Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner literally washed most of the dirt right off with a gentle scrubbing with the included horse hair brush. I used the entire bottle but if I had more I bet I could have gotten the last remaining dirt stains out. After allowing the top to fully dry overnight I sprayed on the RaggTopp Fabric Protectant and lastly washed the windows with McKee's 37 Plex-All (which did an okay job -- then again my windows are very scratched up from trees). Plan on using a full bottle of the cleaner and protectant for a dirty Jeep top and make sure you get into the zipper flaps with both.

Before:


After:


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post #36 of 76 Old 11-09-2017, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Rhinelander
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It's been a long summer building for 35s with a 4" lift. And I actually got the build 99% completed but then I had a snag with the front axle where the LCA mounts were placed at least an inch too far rearward messing up the placement of the axle and ruining the geometry. After talking to the manufacture it became clear that they'd rather me pretend it wasn't an issue than them fixing it, so I returned both the front and rear axles I purchased from them as I'm tired of their excuses and support. This ended up throwing the entire build off for the year and it is now snowing outside and too cold to finish the build for the year. But this did allow me to open my eyes a bit and now I'm planning on building even better and hoping to finish next summer just in time for some fall color wheeling.

On that note, I will still go over my build from this summer bit by bit but I have no experience on how it drives.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #37 of 76 Old 11-09-2017, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 4,068
Part of my build this summer was to do repair any issues I already was facing, namely rust, and then build off of that.

The frame and underbody each called for several coats of POR-15 each. Before coating the frame I had a local welder replace my OEM body mounts on the frame with the raised body mounts from PoisonSpyder.





The body mounts barely clear the Savvy rockers by about a sheet of paper. But driving home I noticed that they squeak as the body flexes, so I'll need to cut the rockers slightly later to clear the body mounts.

It took the welding shop about 7 hours to complete these body mounts. I had bought a day of labor so for the remaining hour they patched up the holes on the body where the stock taillights and tailgate go. I previously switched to flush mounted taillights and a truck style dropdown tailgate so these where just extra unused holes now.



They also fixed this hole in the floor where a body mount bolt punched through:


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post #38 of 76 Old 11-09-2017, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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To prep for coating the frame and painting the body I removed everything I could from the interior and body and pressure washed then hand washed the entire body, interior, and under carriage.





For the frame, I used Super Clean, Dawn Dish Soap, and finally POR-15 Degreaser. On the body only Dawn Dish Soap. For inside the frame rails I used a sewer jetter which worked great blasting bits of dirt and rust out.

At this point the Jeep wasn't moving under it's own power with the gas tank removed so I used my ATV to pull it back up the hill to the garage with my wife steering the Jeep.



Back in the garage I removed the axles and identified low spots in the frame and drilled small drain holes so these problem areas wouldn't get worse:



On my Jeep these were body sides of the the extra LJ crossmember and directly in front of the rear frame side lower control arm mounts. Another common area where water collects is directly behind the front lower control arm mounts however my Jeep came with nutserts there for the automatic transmission skid which I had replaced with a Savvy Engine Skid which mounts up in a different way and leaves these nutserts unused. The nutserts created a raised lip in the frame so I made sure those were entirely removed so water could drain from there too.

Here's a hole I drilled in front of the rear LCA mount (it flash rusted):


Finally I took a wire brush to the entire frame and underbody to break up any rust and create a good surface for the POR-15 to bond to. While I was working on this my wife was running magnets through the frame collecting bits of rust and forgotten nuts and bolts that had broken off in the frame over the years. This process took many many evenings, but from what I hear a good paint job is dependent on the prep work so I think it will be worth the effort in the end.

Testing Eastwood Down to Metal Paint & Powder Stripper:

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #39 of 76 Old 11-09-2017, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Some pics of the rust I was dealing with:








While I was wire brushing all of this away my Craftsman 20gal air compressor must have blown a piston and stopped making air. Luckily I was almost done at this point and finished up with my electric grinder and a drill with a brush attachment.

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post #40 of 76 Old 11-11-2017, 03:59 PM
ETinMT
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Wondering if Jeeps are the "Rust Kings" of the vehicle world.
Seems all Jeeps after a couple years have bad rust problems.
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post #41 of 76 Old 11-16-2017, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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At this point a large order of paint came in. I'll be also painting spots on the body so there's much more than just frame paint here.



I started coating the frame and torque boxes from the inside with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. I used green so I could easily stick a endoscope in a take a look at the coverage.



It took 3 coats of the Internal frame coating to have coverage that I was happy with. In all I used 8 cans on the frame and another 6 cans on the body.



There's a total of 10 cavities on the LJ body that need to be coated (1 less on the TJ):
  1. Body mount torque boxes
  2. Cavity by front foot mats on both sides
  3. Cavity by front lower seat belt mounts
  4. Structural support ribs for rear seat
  5. Rear torque box below tailgate



For the frame, there's the 2 main rails, front tube, spring brackets, and rear crossmembers.

Give each coat 24 hours to dry. I also set up box fans to aid in air movement since I was painting inside my garage.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #42 of 76 Old 11-17-2017, 07:15 AM
Remko
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sounds like a lot of work, but it'll be worth it. Unfortunately your pictures aren't showing up for me.

TEALJ6 Build
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/tealj6-build-1428156/
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post #43 of 76 Old 11-18-2017, 11:47 AM
grogie
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I enjoyed reading about your build! I look forward to seeing your painting next.


Red Jeep Club #345
'06 TJ Sport -
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'19 Tacoma TRD OR

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post #44 of 76 Old 12-13-2017, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remko View Post
sounds like a lot of work, but it'll be worth it. Unfortunately your pictures aren't showing up for me.
Bummer. All of them or just some?

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #45 of 76 Old 12-16-2017, 06:35 AM
Remko
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
Bummer. All of them or just some?
Went back today, and they're all working, so nice to see what you were talking about. Great job, it'll be better than new once you're all done.

TEALJ6 Build
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/tealj6-build-1428156/
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