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post #946 of 961 Old 04-21-2021, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
'92 vegas YJ
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Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
Awesome trip, Chris. Iím heading to Moab with my brother this weekend, and we donít see each other much these days either. Iím looking forward to it. Thanks for sharing that.
I'm jealous. I plan to make it to Moab sometime next year. Right now we're planning for EJS.

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post #947 of 961 Old 04-21-2021, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
I'm jealous. I plan to make it to Moab sometime next year. Right now we're planning for EJS.
Maybe a few of us can go and hit some trails together.

I've wanted to do EJS but am not a huge fan of crowds so it worries me a little.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #948 of 961 Old 04-22-2021, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wildman4x4nut View Post
Maybe a few of us can go and hit some trails together.

I've wanted to do EJS but am not a huge fan of crowds so it worries me a little.
I'm not the biggest fan of crowds either and always told myself I would never go during EJS. After talking to some people they convinced me its not "that" crowded and its a great overall experience.
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post #949 of 961 Old 04-22-2021, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
I'm not the biggest fan of crowds either and always told myself I would never go during EJS. After talking to some people they convinced me its not "that" crowded and its a great overall experience.
I do want to go ONCE just so I can say I did and get to see some of the hoopla about it. So yes I'd go and I'd even try to not let the crowds bother me too much. I'm a hell of a lot better than I was 10 years ago.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #950 of 961 Old 04-24-2021, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Trying to get the Jeep back up and operational.


First thing was to fix my shroud. Since I had my fan and shroud off anyway I decided to go the extra step and remove the radiator so I could replace my harmonic balancer. I noticed my HB was bad during my testing phase but didn't want to pull everything apart to fix it at the time. I wanted to focus on getting everything running right.

Draining the radiator is definitely a interesting process.




after a couple bolts the radiator was pulled.






got the old pulley and harmonic balancer removed. It's a pretty painless process if you use the proper harmonic balancer removal tool. I rented one from Autozone.




And the new one installed. The new replacement part is a one piece design with the pulley connected to the HB vs the stock 2 piece.




Then reinstall the belt and get everything else installed and buttoned up. Didn't take any more pictures but it looks the same as it did before. I did fix the shroud while I had it removed.





Next up was my rear yoke that I received from Advance Adapters the other day so I could reinstall my rear shaft.


What's left of my yoke on the Tcase




Upon looking at my DS for the first time since the break I realized I didn't just ruin the yoke at the Tcase but it also took out my CV. It snapped it in half.




What's left of what was attached to the DS and the Tcase




Fancy new yoke




You can also see the driveshaft in the picture above is my spare DS I keep in my trailer. It is just a spliced junkyard shaft that is unbalanced but will get me off the trail.

Bolted back together with my spare DS.




I need to call around on Monday and find a shop to rebuild my other drivesahft. The welded yoke on the side of the CV is damaged as well so I need get that completely cutoff and a whole new CV setup welded on. I was hoping I could get away with just a CV rebuild but that's not the case.


After I got everything buttoned back up I took the Jeep for a test drive to make sure everything was good with the new HB and driveshaft. Besides a small vibration coming from my trail shaft everything went well.

I then came home and downloaded my custom tune I got.



I am just running a custom tune on a stock motor setup for 87 octane. I can do unlimited tunes through my tuner and can make adjustments for any aftermarket parts I add later on. She is definitely more peppy and has smoothing shifts with the tune.

I also received my seal kit from ORI today as well as some tools and the proper oil for whenever I decide to tear down my shocks.


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post #951 of 961 Old 04-25-2021, 12:11 AM
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Any idea why the yoke on the t-case broke?

How is the engine run now with the new tune? How does it change the trans shifting?

Glad to hear it's working better and you're getting it figured out.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #952 of 961 Old 04-25-2021, 06:37 AM
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I can't speak to EJS but felt there was enough rigs on the trails when we did our trip 2 weeks before EJS, I can't imagine being there during if I really wanted to enjoy all the trails.... It's sort of like doing Sturgis on the Harley... yeah it was great to "do it" but to really appreciate the riding, I'll have to go back again... just my 2cnts.

As always looking good Chris... Also curious on the yoke failure... sucks it took out the CV too... Hey its only money and time, right?
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post #953 of 961 Old 04-25-2021, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildman4x4nut View Post
Any idea why the yoke on the t-case broke?

How is the engine run now with the new tune? How does it change the trans shifting?

Glad to hear it's working better and you're getting it figured out.
Immediately prior to the yoke breaking I had all 4 times about 2' off the ground. I'm pretty sure I landed right on the ds on the edge of the ledge.

So far the tune just seems a bit more peppy. I only took it out for a quick drive yesterday. I want to take it out more today and see how it compares at highway speed. Both your computer and my tuned computer the shifts are real smooth and with the stock computers the shifts are a lot more violent. I have a shift kit installed so I don't have a problem with the firm shifts its just surprises me that it smooths out with the tuned computers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NHfireLJ View Post
I can't speak to EJS but felt there was enough rigs on the trails when we did our trip 2 weeks before EJS, I can't imagine being there during if I really wanted to enjoy all the trails.... It's sort of like doing Sturgis on the Harley... yeah it was great to "do it" but to really appreciate the riding, I'll have to go back again... just my 2cnts.

As always looking good Chris... Also curious on the yoke failure... sucks it took out the CV too... Hey its only money and time, right?
Nothing is set in stone on dates. Again I told myself I would never go during that time because I want to actually wheel but I was convinced its not bad. We'll have to see as the time gets closes. I'm not opposed to going at a different time contingent that I go with some people that are familiar with the area so that I get the most out of my time.
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post #954 of 961 Old 04-25-2021, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
Immediately prior to the yoke breaking I had all 4 times about 2' off the ground. I'm pretty sure I landed right on the ds on the edge of the ledge.

So far the tune just seems a bit more peppy. I only took it out for a quick drive yesterday. I want to take it out more today and see how it compares at highway speed. Both your computer and my tuned computer the shifts are real smooth and with the stock computers the shifts are a lot more violent. I have a shift kit installed so I don't have a problem with the firm shifts its just surprises me that it smooths out with the tuned computers.



Nothing is set in stone on dates. Again I told myself I would never go during that time because I want to actually wheel but I was convinced its not bad. We'll have to see as the time gets closes. I'm not opposed to going at a different time contingent that I go with some people that are familiar with the area so that I get the most out of my time.
When I eventually make a trip west, I'd like to make a stop through Moab to hit some trails and check that bucket list item. I'd be more interested to target Johnson Valley and/or Sand Hollow for the bulk of wheeling.


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post #955 of 961 Old 04-25-2021, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by NHfireLJ View Post
I can't speak to EJS but felt there was enough rigs on the trails when we did our trip 2 weeks before EJS, I can't imagine being there during if I really wanted to enjoy all the trails.... It's sort of like doing Sturgis on the Harley... yeah it was great to "do it" but to really appreciate the riding, I'll have to go back again... just my 2cnts.

As always looking good Chris... Also curious on the yoke failure... sucks it took out the CV too... Hey its only money and time, right?

I was in Sturgis in 2019 the week after the Rally so yes I totally understand. I had a LOT more fun with less crowds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
Immediately prior to the yoke breaking I had all 4 times about 2' off the ground. I'm pretty sure I landed right on the ds on the edge of the ledge.

So far the tune just seems a bit more peppy. I only took it out for a quick drive yesterday. I want to take it out more today and see how it compares at highway speed. Both your computer and my tuned computer the shifts are real smooth and with the stock computers the shifts are a lot more violent. I have a shift kit installed so I don't have a problem with the firm shifts its just surprises me that it smooths out with the tuned computers.



Nothing is set in stone on dates. Again I told myself I would never go during that time because I want to actually wheel but I was convinced its not bad. We'll have to see as the time gets closes. I'm not opposed to going at a different time contingent that I go with some people that are familiar with the area so that I get the most out of my time.

That is interesting and makes me wonder. I could NEVER get my 5.2 to run GREAT. It ran ok when I was on the trail but I have 3.05 & 5.44 low range to choose between. My BIGGEST ***** was that it wouldn't hold 70 MPH on the highway. And this was with 35" tires and then 38" tires.

The guy who did my engine swap blamed the STaK's transfer case but I could run the Jeep up the off ramp at my exit and slip it into neutral and it would just coast to a stop. I I don't think it had anything to do with the t-case.
As I've said before it was finally overheating so bad that I parked it. And the person who got my old engine sent me pictures of the cracked head. So that explains why it would blow coolant out of the radiator if I took the cap off.

The other thing was that it was always running rich and clogged the first catalytic converter I'd installed. Actually clog so bad the Jeep wouldn't run.

I'm glad it's working good for you. That help me out for when I get mine running.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #956 of 961 Old 04-28-2021, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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I've been steadily driving the Jeep trying to get miles put on it. I still have less than 300 miles since the motor swap.

I do have a small annoying leak right now. It only leaks after the engine is warm and then I park it. Its coming from the front output seal right where the harmonic balancer is. It never leaked with the old HB, I inspected the seal before I installed the new one and I also lubricated the new HB before installing it. I'm really hoping this leaks corrects itself shortly because I have zero desire to drain and pull my radiator again.


Besides that she is running awesome and its such a pleasure to just go on long cruises through the backroads in this thing.

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post #957 of 961 Old 05-02-2021, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Decided I should start the rebuild of my ORI. For now I'm going to just rebuild the one that needs it and if I do everything correctly and don't have any issues I will go and rebuild the other one as well.


Starting point.




Got the Jeep and axle supported and removed the drivers side ORI.




ORI sitting with some of the stuff I acquired to complete this job. In this picture is 2 rebuild kits, a strap wrench, 2 quarts of the correct oil and some measuring beakers for refilling.




The first thing I needed to do was build some sort of soft clamp to hold the piston shaft while disassembling. ORI makes a set of aluminum clamps for this but they are stupid expensive. I opted to try it with a piece of 2x4.

I cut a 1.75" hole in the center then cut it down the middle. I cut one side all the way through with a jig saw and then the other side just fell into 2 pieces off of an existing split in the wood.




I used a piece of leather to help hold it in place when I clamp it down




Next use a large adjustable wrench and a rag to unscrew and remove the lower mount rebound assembly






and drain the oil from the lower chamber




In order to get all of the oil out you need to manually cycle the strut to full extension a couple time and the oil will burp out.




Next it was time to remove the upper cap assembly. For this I needed to build another tool. Keep in mind that I am NOT a woodworker by any means. I actually don't have many wood tools at my disposal.

I started with a piece of 3x4 and marked where I need to cut out.




I then used a wood hole cutting bit and a jig saw to come up with the




And it slides over the upper cap as such. You use a strap wrench on the bottom of the shock body and then use the tool on the upper cap to unscrew the cap.




Would you be surprised if I told you my fancy tool only lasted about 15 seconds before it broke? I sure wasn't surprised .




that's ok though. All it needed was some reinforcement.




After reinforcing my ghetto tool the cap was pretty easy to get off.




Then remove the compression dampening valve




And you can remove the shell and put in on the bench with the rest of the parts




Now there is a tool that I still need. In order to get the piston removed you need a special spanner socket. I thought about making one but then I figured by the time I buy a socket to use as a base, the right size hole saw, the small 1/4" diameter rod for the nubs to go into the piston then the time it'll take to tig it all up that I'd just save money in the long run ordering the right tool, so I ordered one this morning.

This is what the piston looks like. The piece that sticks out in the center is actually the built in bump stop the ORI's have.




And this is what the tool looks like.




The only other tool I needed to make so far is another clamping tool to remove the main cylinder.




And that will grab the main cylinder like so, while I use a strap wrench on the bottom cap.




I decided though that since I still need the spanner socket for the piston that I will not continue breaking the shock down any further. So I cleaned up and put all the shock pieces in a tub and threw a box over the top to keep debris out.




That is all I have for the shock disassembly and rebuild for right now. I will say that ORI makes quite a few tools that are very specific for tearing these down and rebuilding them but they are STUPID expensive.

Here are some of the tools they make. That is a strap wrench for $130 and a snap ring plier for $40.




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post #958 of 961 Old 05-02-2021, 01:01 PM
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WOW they are proud of their tools aren't they?

That is crazy but it seems a lot of places do that so I am not surprised. It doesn't seem over all really hard to take down.

Get it done so you'll be ready for that next trip.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #959 of 961 Old 05-02-2021, 06:06 PM
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"Special tools" get special pricing.

Nice home brew custom tools
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post #960 of 961 Old 05-03-2021, 08:30 AM
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Great description on the rebuild process, Chris.
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