Project: Underestimated - 2001 TJ LCG Build - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 65 Old 03-28-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Gaining momentum

Now I'm starting to move forward with this little Jeep.

This is the letter form Albany NY DOT for my inspection.



Went out today & just double checked all my lights (needed to replace the passenger side blinker on the fender flare).

I should be good to go..... a little nervous that they'll find something...

Meanwhile, more goodies showed up the last few days.

Solid Diff Covers



D30



8.8



Had to remake some of the switch panel. I had some of the mounting screws for the bottom plate in a place I couldn't get to.







Added the switches





Plenty of clearance from the shifter. Still need to put a final spray on everything. Nothing is wired up yet. I'm still waiting on my 2 12volt buttons for "Winch In" & "Winch Out". They'll go between the Winch Power (Red switch) & the front locker switch.



There is a Blue LED strip above all the switches so I will be able to see everything at night.

In the process I removed some more of the horrible Chrome parts. Crappy gas cover, had to drill out one of the screws...



Looks soo much better without that chrome.



And cleaned up a little.



I honestly am running out of room in my garage.



As i'm sitting here I hear the door bell & I find this outside on the stoop.





8oz per tire. They are packaged in 16oz bags. You can kinda see the size of them through the bag.



I lost some of the stickon weights on my WJ & didn't want to go down that route again. Hopefully these will be better.

After April 9 I'll kick this Pig and get the build going.



Last things I have to order are Gears / Lockers / Compressor / Rear Bumper / SYE / D.S. / wheel spacers

Got a text from a buddy who has a front & rear axle, AX15, 4.0 motor out of a 1992 XJ. That means that it should be a HP D30 & maybe a D44 rear axle. I might pick up the front axle if it is a HP D30 & in good shape.

Fingers crossed!


Dammit, Sorry for that. I meant to post this pic.......





Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #47 of 65 Old 03-30-2019, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered up some more parts today......

From Quadratec

Footman Loop for hood:



New Radio, Harnes, & mount:



From Amazon:

Brown Dog 1" lift motor mounts



Qty 2 Red LED Light (1/ea for the heated seats when they are turned on)

Qty 1 Switch "Interior lights" will turn the LED strips on that i'll use for interior lights.

Qty 1 Blue LED Light (will be used for when the Winch switch is turned on)



Had some time to get some work done on the TJ. Pulled out the front seat & center console. Cleaned up the floor, very little rust, but gonna clean them up & use POR15 then bed line them down the road.



Pulled out all the stock linkage...... Let me just say, 4 bolts in the tub, 2 bolts holding the linkage to the transmission & it took me 4+ hours to pull everything out. Now, I didn't put it on a lift or on jack stands I did all this with all 4 wheels on the ground. I dropped the skid plate & the transmission enough to get in there to get the job done, but good lord it wasn't easy.



Pulled out the Steinjager Transfer Case Cable Shifter.



Everything went back in much quicker than taking the stock linkage out. There are a few things to note here, the Steinjager kit is nice & feels really smooth when shifting from 2wd / N / 4wd / 4lo compared to the stock crap.

1) It doesn't include any directions. They do have a YouTube video of installing it, but I don't feel they focused on the most important parts of the install. Not a huge deal, I watched & re-watched the video a couple of times and figured it out.


2) Tightening the 4 Allen head bolts that mount the bracket that holds the cables for the shifter was to say the least almost impossible by myself. After fighting & fighting to get it mounted up I finally figured out to brace the allen wrench with pipes or body lines & tighten the nuts from the underside. Now NOVAK's cable shifter has rubber grommets that hold the nuts to the bracket & you just thread the allen bolts to the bracket.

Looking back, I would recommend the NOVAK Cable Shifter instead of the Steinjager kit. I did save $20.00+/-, but that's not enough because of the frustration I had.

Friday @ Work I used the tire mounting machine & mounted up 2 of my 4 wheels.



I still have 2 more to mount, BUT before I mount them up I decided to grab one of the rims & just verify that they were in fact 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Whelp....... No Dice! So now I have to figure out what to do. I could (1) buy 4 new rims & 2 8oz bags of new balance beads, (2) buy some spacers/adapters to go from 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.

More decisions for me to make. I'm kinda pissed, I tried to save some money & got screwed in the end (kinda).

I put everything back together cleaned the center console really good. I do plan to paint the center console black but i'll wait a little while for that.

On the flip side, I found a bunch of money all over the place in the TJ. Gonna add this to my budget for more parts...



A whopping $3.24

Moving ahead slowly but still moving....

Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #48 of 65 Old 03-31-2019, 11:05 AM
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Loving the build. Another thing I suggest adding to your list..especially since youre going LCG route Id swap out the belly skid for a flat one if you plan to wheel it.

<><
'00 TJ/4.0/NV3550/D30(Aussie)/D44(LSD)/3.73s/1"MML/1.25"BL/OME Springs/UCF TT/33s
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post #49 of 65 Old 04-01-2019, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smccollamjr View Post
Loving the build. Another thing I suggest adding to your list..especially since you’re going LCG route I’d swap out the belly skid for a flat one if you plan to wheel it.
Thanks, for following. Ya, i was just on Barnes4x4 & he has a flat skid for $200. I didn't think that was too bad of a price. I'm doing the body lift so i can clock the transfer case up a bit, flat belly it & raise the gas tank up for a bit more clearance. I do plan on wheelin' this thing.

Any other ideas are appreciated.

Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #50 of 65 Old 04-03-2019, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Got some more done on my switch panel over the last few days. Some parts have been slowly showing up & did some more wiring.

This wiring is for the "interior Light switch:



Here's how it looks now, I also mounted the buttons for the Winch "In" & "out".



Here's how it'll look when the lights are on. You can see the "interior Lights" switch cover hasn't come in yet (for this picture at least)



Closeup



Today the switch cover came in...



And with lights on



Also, my new Motor Mounts showed up. 1" lift motor Mounts from Brown Dog.



The radio & wiring harness should be here tomorrow. I'll throw that in & that'll be it till Tuesday 4/9/18.... That is the day I have to get it inspected. After that "Gloves Off" & I'll get going on the body lift & the suspension lift.

Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #51 of 65 Old 04-13-2019, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Passed NYSDOT Inspection

4/9/19 (Tuesday) came & my father & I loaded the TJ up on a Dolly from U-Haul & drove it down for its' inspection. After a stressful couple of hours I get "You Passed".

That's a big load off my shoulders, now i can get this thing going.

Today 4/13/19 (Saturday) I went out & put the 1" daystar body lift on. Everything went fine, even the 2 rear body mounts near the gas tank. I thought they'd be the problem areas, but that was cake. The only mount that gave me a hard time was the first passenger side body mount (near the front tire). Because of the accident it was in, the body mount shifted a bit & for some reason that one bolt snapped off & was rusted in. Thank god for BP Blaster & my Vice Grip pliers. After an hour or so of spraying it down & working the bolt back & forth it finally gave free & came out.

The Daystar kit is really nice, here is everything laid out before installation.


Bill of materials:


Everything laid out the way it'll be installed


Before the install, here are the stock fender heights:

Drivers Side Rear: 33 1/4"


Drivers Side Front: 31 1/4"


Passengers Side Front: 31 1/2"


Passenger Side Rear: 33 1/4"


Measurements after the body lift:

Drivers Side Rear: 34 3/8"


Drives Side Front: 32 3/4"


Passenger Side Front: 33"


Passenger Side Rear: 34 1/2"




Here are the Before & After (I thought I took a before picture). Hard to tell, but based on the above dimensions, everything went up roughly 1"





Maybe this is better...

Before:


After:


Tomorrow, I plan to install the Brown Dog 1" lift motor mounts & also hope to install the Green/Blue grill & start on the suspension lift.......


Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #52 of 65 Old 04-28-2019, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't gotten much of anything done on the TJ as the weather went to hell again......

I did however get a call from the guy i bought my WJ from & he had a D35 & a D30 out of a 92 Cherokee.

After looking at the D30, I offered him a fat Hundo ($100.00) for it. He was looking for more than that for it so he didn't jump on it right away, but a few days later I get a call from him and he says "come get this thing out of my way"...

SCORE... High Pinion Dana 30 & its from down south so it's not rusted to crap!



Next will be tear down both axles & send them out to the sand blaster.


Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #53 of 65 Old 04-30-2019, 02:07 PM
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Project: Underestimated - 2001 TJ LCG Build

High pinion 30 for $100 is a steel. Nice.

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post #54 of 65 Old 05-06-2019, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
High pinion 30 for $100 is a steel. Nice.
Agreed, when I'm not looking for something sometimes it just fall in your lap....

One more step completed, I finished working on the replacement grill..

A little flashback, Started with this


Then got to this point...


Not happy with the blinkers, I changed to LED's with a flange so I bought these.


Painted the plastic housings


Pulled the tape off &....


Opened up the holes for the LED's, Sanded the grill down, & ground off the little bit of rust


Painted flat black (for now)


Back


Cleaned up the "U" support bracket behind the grill


All bolted together......


And Installed.






Everything went together without an issue, except when you're bolting the fenders to the grill, make sure the headlight plug doesn't fall between the fender & the grill....... boy that was a surprise... don't know if you can see the wire but yep, its between the grill & fender....


I finished up the body lift once the grill was installed. Next step is to fit the new hood on, clean it up & spray the inside Black. I'll also start on the suspension lift this weekend if the weather holds out..

Comparison... Original ===> Banged out "fix" ===> New to me grill...


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Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #55 of 65 Old 05-09-2019, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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So been himin' & hawin' about purchasing more parts, but figured what the hell...

Picked up my SYE, I've used an Advanced Adapters SYE on my Cherokee, but I liked what the JB Conversions have so I picked one up.



Also been looking at another Smittybilt 9500# winch with Synthetic Rope. I have the same one on my WJ & am very happy with it. I use it all the time on my WJ & it's worked flawlessly!



I am also looking at the UCF Ultra High Clearance Skid Plate (Steel). Wondering if anyone here is using this skid or not. It's not priced too bad & the only other skid plate I'm looking at as an option is the Barnes4x4 flat skid.....

UCF Ultra High Skid (Option#1)



Barnes4x4 Flat Skid (Option#2)



Anyone have any thoughts on skid plates? I believe I can run either one as I already have the 1" Body Lift installed I shouldn't have any clearance issues. Correct me if I'm wrong......



Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #56 of 65 Old 05-09-2019, 07:07 PM
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Ive got the UCF skid with an 1.25 BL and a MML. Works great. I did the MML lift first and my shifter (NV3550) would hit the console in 2nd, 4th, and reverse. When I installed the UCF skid it put the shifter pretty close to where it was. If you install the skid without a MML the shifter may be close to the dash in 1st, 3rd, and 5th.

<><
'00 TJ/4.0/NV3550/D30(Aussie)/D44(LSD)/3.73s/1"MML/1.25"BL/OME Springs/UCF TT/33s
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post #57 of 65 Old 05-10-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smccollamjr View Post
Ive got the UCF skid with an 1.25 BL and a MML. Works great. I did the MML lift first and my shifter (NV3550) would hit the console in 2nd, 4th, and reverse. When I installed the UCF skid it put the shifter pretty close to where it was. If you install the skid without a MML the shifter may be close to the dash in 1st, 3rd, and 5th.
Cool, I do have the 1"MML that I'll be installing within the next few days & with the 1"BL my hopes are with one of the skid plates everything (shifter) should fall back into the "stock" location. I like the UCF skid a little more than the Barnes4x4 one mainly because of the tranny mount bolts are concealed. Thanks for the info!

Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #58 of 65 Old 05-11-2019, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Weather broke today, mid 50's...... Really sad for Mid May that mid 50's is good working weather........

Walked into the Garage & just stood there & looked at lil' ol' underestimated....



Figured I should really swap the hoods, the original hood just makes me sad.. so did this...



then as I looked at the hood, as it's lived it's whole life here in Buffalo NY it's got some rust spots. I started sanding some of the hood down with a Scotch Bright & sand paper where the rust was.



Did a little more, I know i'll be using the Monstaliner & you have to scuff it up anyways so I just made some slow progress on the bodywork..



After wasting an hour or so with all that, I figured I might as well dig into the lift kit. Laid everything out & honestly I'm pretty impressed with Rough Country with this kit. You really get a lot for the money. Now I know, I know it's still a Rough Country kit & as things break I'll replace parts with better parts, but this kit is not bad for a budge kit.



Front suspension parts:


Rear suspension parts:


Front Track Bar & Quick Disconnects:


I got the front all completed (except for putting the tires back on & double checking all bolts).

I am really happy with this TJ being from West Virginia. Just about every bolt came out without any problems. Although, those stupid Torx bolts.... Why does Jeep use those stupid things. The Track Bar mount (axle side) wouldn't come out. destroyed 2 torx bits trying & ended up taking the track bar out in pieces.



Now I have to buy a new track bar bolt & a Spring retainer clip & bolt. The hunt is on........

Tomorrow is another day, & I hope to get the rear done tomorrow.

Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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post #59 of 65 Old 05-11-2019, 08:35 PM
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Project: Underestimated - 2001 TJ LCG Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by caronaxtr2 View Post
Cool, I do have the 1"MML that I'll be installing within the next few days & with the 1"BL my hopes are with one of the skid plates everything (shifter) should fall back into the "stock" location. I like the UCF skid a little more than the Barnes4x4 one mainly because of the tranny mount bolts are concealed. Thanks for the info!

To clarify, the gear shift is close to stock location horizontally, but it is taller.

<><
'00 TJ/4.0/NV3550/D30(Aussie)/D44(LSD)/3.73s/1"MML/1.25"BL/OME Springs/UCF TT/33s
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post #60 of 65 Old 05-12-2019, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smccollamjr View Post
To clarify, the gear shift is close to stock location horizontally, but it is taller.
Cool, gotcha. Actually, I thought with the body lift the shifter would be lower, but with those skid plates gaining 3" +/- in clearance it makes seance that it would be 2" +/- higher.

Thanks for the clarification!

Figured I'd better post some pictures of what I got done yesterday or ya'll might think it didn't happen...

You know.....



Drivers side, Passengers side is basically the same (as I'd expect anyone reading this tread to know that...)





This puts in prospective the size of the control arms.



As I was taking the control arms off, I found more damage of the accident. The upper passenger side was bent up pretty good.

2 other small issues I came across (other than the track bar) with bolts were the upper passenger side bolt (frame side) hit the exhaust pipe. Super PIA along with the Drivers side lower (axle side) hit the differential. Again PIA, but finally got it all out.

It's now 10degrees cooler than yesterday (low 40's) so I really don't think I'll go outside today & do much of anything in the garage. I hate the cold!

Today will be Internet Shopping.
- Track Bar Nut & Bolt
- Spring retainer spring & bolt
- Extended front Brake lines
- Bump Stops

I will say as the build goes on, I will pass my $10,000 budget but as we all know as we get into our builds you find other things you need. I may also purchase the aluminum drop down tailgate.

Got this link from laxman1306 on here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264236575810?ul_noapp=true


Builds:
2002 WJ-ARB's f/r, swapped D44A, 4.5" Clayton, 33" SST Pro's, winch, armor, and other doo-dads
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