Project Freakshow (Homemade TJ Brute) - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 86 Old 02-11-2019, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
TJsRedTJ
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Another day, another chance to test our luck. This time, we went to my friend's house where he knew he had all of the necessary provisions for welding (and a new tank of gas). Let's begin. We started by double checking our measurements on the rise and got them welded in place fully...



Man it's great to know a good welder...





And test fitted the tub again.. I may have to trip a touch just so it doesn't bump at flex but we'll see...




Next up was the frame. This is 2x3x1/4 wall tubing. It's overkill once again but better safe than sorry. I decided I wanted a 5'6" internal bed roughly so we measured about 5'10" of rail behind the tub (plus a 1.25" gap between tub and bed). I can't remember our exact numbers for cutting tubing, but here we go. I decided on having the rear cross member run inside of the frame rails for 2 reasons. If I did a 45*, mounting a bumper would put the mounting hole right in the weld, and if I did the frame rails butting up to the rear, then the bumper is acting as a lever on the welded on frame cross member. The way I chose, the bumper is acting as a lever essentially on the entire length of the frame. Plus, this allows me to finish internally coating the frame and I can cap it off afterword.



This is how it will sit in the rise piece. I was originally going to run it flat with the top, but that didn't allow any insertion because it starts curving immediately. If I mount it flush with the bottom, I could slide it is something like 3.5".



After making sure everything was 90* with each other piece, my buddy got to welding. Also including some 90* gussets in the rear corners at the top face. Why not?





And here we go with the intimidating part. Welding it all up level across every plane...



After tacking and measuring a hundred times, we got to welding it in place...



Finally, after it was in place, we measured one last time for giggles. Corner to corner was about 1/16" off. Putting a bubble level on the front versus the rear, we had to shim the level less than 1/16" in order for it to match. Near perfect? I'd say so. I know my frame I am driving on is like 1/8 off corner to corner and it's in factory spec from what I was told. (Maybe I am wrong). I am happy with 1/16.

Another day in the books...

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post #32 of 86 Old 02-11-2019, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
TJsRedTJ
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Time for some work yet again. First was to address the frame rise to new frame gap. There was a half inch gap so I decided to fix that. I cut the top free and hit it down, then cut the remaining tabs off the side walls... Pictures help here...





And welding it up with 2 passes. 1st on left and 2nd on right... Can you tell it's me welding again?



Remember the frame stiffeners? Yeah, they were up next...



Because of its boxed in design, I decided to leave the ends unwelded and drilled 4 half in holes in the top so that I would get a pressure washer in there. I was not about to fully weld them in so this was the next best option.

Next up were some control arm brackets. I picked up a bunch of stuff at my local parts supplier (Big thanks to the awesome Midnight 4X4 in Salt Lake). This is what I went with for the lower...



Luckily I still have my TJ nearby so I just measured up where my Teraflex brackets are and copied it to the new frame. The new mounts were meant for a straight frame and the Teraflex mounts are a bit more custom. So, of course, the mounts lie on a bend. With the help of a cutoff wheel, problem solved...









I held off doing the front upper due to a remaining factory bracket so I switched to the rear. These were going to be the tricky part. Here is the bracket I got...





This was a bit of a process, so if you are interested in knowing my technique, just ask. Otherwise, here it is...









Lastly, I whipped up some new coil buckets. Since I am switching to JK coils, I decided to slim down the mounts and make them a tad stronger. JK rear springs are smaller in diameter. Here is the comparison between a TJ mount and my new mount...



For those of you who have ever run an 8.8, you may have noticed how under flexing (depending on wheel and tire combo or spacers) your tire comes very close or may even hit the mount. This should help.



That's it for now. Tune in next time!
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post #33 of 86 Old 02-11-2019, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quick PSA. I have done my research on setting up a 4 link. I am not skilled, but am learning, so if you have some advice, please chime in. Otherwise I am going to keep this short.

Here is my current setup measurements. Horrid I know.



And here are the measurements I am applying to my frame (rough but hopefully accurate)...



I would've loved to get my roll axis angle lower but I don't want to drop my control arms on the frame any lower so I am going with this. Let's just say... Its better than what I had haha.
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post #34 of 86 Old 02-12-2019, 06:24 AM
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From the little bit I know.... don't you want your antisquat closer to 100?. Mine came out around 90 something and I like it there.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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post #35 of 86 Old 02-12-2019, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Ya know... I've seen so many different answers. I've seen 100% is "neutral" and best, I've seen that you want 80-100, and more recently that you want 50-70. A lot of it really depends on your style of wheeling too. Like I said I am not knowledgeable in this area. One thing I can likely confirm is that the majority of people agree that you want your roll axis closer to zero and anything above ten is horrid. I can play with my antisquat and get it to the upper 70's but then it ups my roll axis. I also have adjustable upper mounts so that can help a little..

Maybe it's worth all of the BS comments and posting it up in pirate4x4 in hopes for a little good feedback. Regardless, I know that these numbers are wayyy better than my old ones so it should handle quite a bit better.
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post #36 of 86 Old 02-13-2019, 10:33 AM
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I watched a couple videos last night with Jake Burkey explaining all this stuff. They are Busted Knuckes videos on youtube. Certainly worth a watch at the point you are now. I guessed based on all the stuff I read on line and got pretty lucky that mine handles great.


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post #37 of 86 Old 02-13-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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I've watched that video a couple of times. I guess I will play with numbers a tad more since I don't have my lower mounts on yet, but I still believe you just kind of have to put them where they fit bet and see how it works. If it's that bad, then change it later. Thanks for the thoughts
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post #38 of 86 Old 02-14-2019, 01:04 PM
willis36
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Sub'd for a sweet build. Cant wait to see where this goes.
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post #39 of 86 Old 02-14-2019, 08:32 PM
wildman4x4nut
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I like your build and it will help me when I start to lengthen my frame for my stretch. I don't know what you are going to use for a bed but I have seen a few people use these before. https://www.dinoot.com/ Good luck and keep the pictures coming.

WILDMAN

Cle Elum, WA

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post #40 of 86 Old 02-20-2019, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
TJsRedTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildman4x4nut View Post
I like your build and it will help me when I start to lengthen my frame for my stretch. I don't know what you are going to use for a bed but I have seen a few people use these before. https://www.dinoot.com/ Good luck and keep the pictures coming.
Thanks! I am going to be making the bed from scratch. I have looked into the dinoot and really like them, but I was just trying to keep cost down (and I like building stuff). If my bed turns out to be crap, I can always go dinoot later as long as I didn't end with a weird length of frame for one. I know they come in a few lengths though so that helps.
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post #41 of 86 Old 04-07-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Another little update with bigger news. As many of you know, a project will always take a few left turns midway. To keep a long story shorter here it is...

After thinking about this project very hard (since I didn't have money for parts) I realized that I am basically building 70% of a jeep. All I was swapping over was hood, fenders, grill, bumper, and interior stuff. (Decided to go straight for the tons). With this in mind and realizing I have an emotional attachment to my TJ which I do enjoy as a short wheelbase, I decided that I am just going to be building this "brute thing" from scratch, ground up, as a new jeep. This decision also came to be when someone on the local classifieds posted an entire TJ interior (HVAC, airbags, wiring, seats and belts, charcoal dash and all) for a good price. So needless to say, I just need a few body parts and an ax-15/231 which can be had at a junkyard for next to nothing.

The blueprint for this new jeep is as follows.

5.9/AX-15/231 t-case
Superduty 60/Sterling 10.5 with 5.13's and ARB's
3/4 link long arms with Metalcloak Duroflex bushings and ORI's so it rides great on the street
40" rubbers and some wheels I have picked out (surprise)
And lastly, a new color! Since I am not swapping parts from my TJ, I won't be doing the red (probably). I am leaning toward Midnight Special, but who knows how it'll end up. I will still try to be posting info that can relate to people building a brute from a TJ so they get their answers, but yeah... Hard left turn for the better I hope.

The other bottom line of this build is do it right the first time. Period. If I can't afford the parts I want, I'll wait till I can. I never want to look back at this build and say I wish I would've done something better.

Anyways.. I hope y'all still enjoy the build!
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post #42 of 86 Old 04-07-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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With that being said, here is an update on the build...


I found a good deal on some axles so I've gotten them all cleaned up and ready for trusses when money allows. Also, if anyone is wondering how much a from dana 60 weighs... Here you go. With rotors, no calipers, open carrier.



And the sterling under the frame. I will weigh it later.




I had ordered towers for my ORI's and got them mounted where I believe they will be happy. Don't worry, they are all just tacked until I get the entire suspension set up and cycled to confirm fitment.





And all 4... Sorry for the garage mess.



Lastly, I have a 5.2 from my old ZJ I am using as a core for a 5.9 and I got that weighed too. This is fully loaded with oil but minus the A/C compressor.



So yeah it doesn't weigh much more than a straight 6. I believe they are right around 600.

The motor mounts have been cut off and the frame is basically ready for ORI's to be mounted and the motor but that is not going to happen for a while. I got more of the frame coated on the inside so it won't rust while it's sitting. The next step is to slowly gather the trusses, control arm mounts, joints, and DOM, and then the ORI's. Once I have everything, I will get the axles sandblasted and all of the brackets mocked up. After that is set up, I will worry about gears and lockers and full axle rebuilds. Then it's on to the wheels and tires Until next time!
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post #43 of 86 Old 04-08-2019, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJsRedTJ View Post

The other bottom line of this build is do it right the first time. Period. If I can't afford the parts I want, I'll wait till I can. I never want to look back at this build and say I wish I would've done something better.

Anyways.. I hope y'all still enjoy the build!
Fantastic way to approach this. That is why my build took 4 years.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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post #44 of 86 Old 04-08-2019, 01:10 PM
Boojo35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJsRedTJ View Post
Another little update with bigger news. As many of you know, a project will always take a few left turns midway. To keep a long story shorter here it is...

After thinking about this project very hard (since I didn't have money for parts) I realized that I am basically building 70% of a jeep. All I was swapping over was hood, fenders, grill, bumper, and interior stuff. (Decided to go straight for the tons). With this in mind and realizing I have an emotional attachment to my TJ which I do enjoy as a short wheelbase, I decided that I am just going to be building this "brute thing" from scratch, ground up, as a new jeep. This decision also came to be when someone on the local classifieds posted an entire TJ interior (HVAC, airbags, wiring, seats and belts, charcoal dash and all) for a good price. So needless to say, I just need a few body parts and an ax-15/231 which can be had at a junkyard for next to nothing.

The blueprint for this new jeep is as follows.

5.9/AX-15/231 t-case
Superduty 60/Sterling 10.5 with 5.13's and ARB's
3/4 link long arms with Metalcloak Duroflex bushings and ORI's so it rides great on the street
40" rubbers and some wheels I have picked out (surprise)
And lastly, a new color! Since I am not swapping parts from my TJ, I won't be doing the red (probably). I am leaning toward Midnight Special, but who knows how it'll end up. I will still try to be posting info that can relate to people building a brute from a TJ so they get their answers, but yeah... Hard left turn for the better I hope.

The other bottom line of this build is do it right the first time. Period. If I can't afford the parts I want, I'll wait till I can. I never want to look back at this build and say I wish I would've done something better.

Anyways.. I hope y'all still enjoy the build!
I originally thought this thread would be a hack job due to some comments in your original post. It is anything but... Nice freaking work so far.... very nice.

I hit the same crossroads that you have on my tub restoration... Why regret it later?

If you cannot fix it with a hammer then it has to be an electrical problem.
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post #45 of 86 Old 04-08-2019, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
Fantastic way to approach this. That is why my build took 4 years.
Thank you! I am hoping around a year but I am not putting a time frame on it. Just when its done. I still have my wrangler now anyway.
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