Project CJ7 "PJ edition" complete rebuild ! - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 85 Old 07-21-2019, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
KristPJ
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1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
After a few months away from home, I am now back in Country. Unfortunately my laptop stopped working on the way back home. It is now in my friends hands to figure out whats going wrong. So meanwhile reste assure, I am working on the jeep, I am actually working on both axle internals, going 4:10 until i finish the jeep. later down the road I will go ARB and 5:38 or something. I also sent the engine in an engine shop for the clean-up and new gaskets. I still have my AMC 401 Block home, but this one will go with my rebuild tranny and t-case. For now, the older rebuild 360, t-5 and d-300 will do. I am slowly starting to gather the necessary to reinstall brake and fuel lines in a clean and solide way and completing the installation of the steering system.
When i will get my PC back, I will make a good update with pictures and descriptions.

thanks for the comments. Its fun to see people follow and like my work! much appreciated


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post #77 of 85 Old 02-23-2020, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
KristPJ
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1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
First off, I am sorry to all the followers for not having updated anything in the past 18 months or so. I was away from home up to end of May 2019. Made it home with a crashed laptop and lots of tasks with work. This held me back a little, however, the good news is I did manage to get some progress done, during the few free moments I had, and take pictures of it. So let me resume my past few months in a few chapters and pictures.

When I made it home in May, I got on my front axle and got new hub bearings, discs, seals and a king pin cap from TMR. I did not get calipers yet, I am still hoping to find a swap I can do with better than original GM front D60 calipers.

[

I then got on my rear axle. Since I would like my jeep rolling on its own power very soon, I am rushing a few little things just to get it moving… I used my dana 61 4.10 gears and put them in my dana 60. Gears are the same, I figured cage would also be. My bad, it would not fit in if the pignon was in place. After more searches I found I had to keep the dana 60 cage with the 4.10 gears. All did fit in but had way to much play. With time we all forget things I guess, I was missing two spacers. I was informed about this after I sent it in for adjustements. Now I have spare ones since I found mine after reinstalling the axle in place.



While the axle was out for adjustements, I completed the welds on all of the suspension links, I gave it a try labeling them with marking punches, letters defining their location on the vehicle. I hope once they are painted it wll still be visible.




When came time to rebuild the front axle, I also removed the engine and send it in for a rebuild. I also asked them to install the compcam kit I had. Upon return, it was also suppose to be paint ready, but i guess we had a communication problem on this. I then got on the front axle gears. Gears and carrier were ok but I got a rebuild kit for it anyway. I build a tubing straightner with a few things I had around, my stainless preformed brake hoses I had were not compatible anymore with all the mods done. Instead of waisting them, I reused what I could the build the new brake lines. Turned out to be very handy for the fuel line too.







When I received the rebuild engine, I was a little dissappointrd as it still had plenty of old paint and and wasn’t ready for paint at all. After a few hours attempting to remove all of this, I called the shop to know if I could use sandblast with glass beads, if all the holes were properly sealed. Once again there must have been a communication problem since I got the OK if all was well sealed. So I did proceed the the sandblast with glass beads after sealing every hole with silicone gasket covered by sheetmeal cut to match the holes. It did hell of a nice job… I proceded with the paint job. Colors were to be cast iron for the block and heads, cast aluminium for the intake and timing cover/accessories.



The job seemed very decent. I had not painted my valve covers and oil pan. Because I mentionned I had further plans to maybe replace them, they did not put these gaskets… you see where I am going, don’t you? Well at my surprise, when I was going to drop the engine. In place, moving few things around, I opened the engine gasket rebuild box and notice gaskets in there who I thought on the engine… the heads were filled with glass powder since the valve cover gaskets were not in place. I guess I really don’t express my self properly when talking… So I took it back to the shop and agreed with them about mistakes on both sides and they took it back to rebuild it again so they could wash it properly. This time it came back the way I had asked for initially.


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post #78 of 85 Old 02-24-2020, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
While the engine was out for rebuild, I worked on the braking system. I bought a HD brake booster for CJ and an adjustable metering valve. I also got a roll of extra 3/16 stainless steel brake line and protector.I straightened my pre formed tubing, changed the fitting that had to be changed to fit on the custom system I have. Then using a tubing bender and a marker, I went through the whole system making sure all was nice straight with right bends where they should be and clean looking. I once again broke a tap while cleaning the treads of the bolt holding the rear passenger brake hose brackette. This was lots of fun tring to remove it. I did manage to do it, however I had to disassemble the caliper support from the axle.



You can notice here on the rear axle the brake line is regular steel tubing, since I had lots of bending to do, I am somehow a beginner with a tube bender, I mocked up the who thing with regular tubing to practice and make the proper model, then I did it over based from it, all in stainless, I will get that picture, I thought I had it.



I had to do a pipe extention for the axle breather,the flexible hose attaches to it and would interfere with the



Broken Tap…



Once the brake line were done, I got the TJ seats in place. I want better comfort while riding and I also prefer the adjustments and seat mechanism of the TJ vs from the CJ. For this I build custome mounts to keep the seats level and safly bolted to the tub. I plan on drawing them on autocad once my laptop is fixed/returned and get proper mounts made. At this point they hold in place, however I doubt a C chanel is proper and safe to hold all in place if there is an accident. Mostly prevention being made here.




Like mentionned in a previous post, when I received my engine for the second time/rebuild. This time around it was stripped and ready for paint. So I did the final cleaning on it, ordered all the hight temp primer/paints needed. And started off with the primer coat. Then I proceeded to the intake and timing cover. Masking the remaning parts of the engine. I let these coats dry for the weekend, I didn’t want to put tap on fresh paint and risk peeling it of when removing it. Weekend past, I cleaned the engine to prepare the heads and block for its color, and scubbed quickly a scotchbrigh on primer and paint, this is suppose to creat adhesion for futur paint coats. Well all this did not turn out as planned, the engine looked great with its fresh paint coats, however it did not stick to the primer for I don’t know what reason. Only using a air gun and rubbing lightly the paint, flakes of color would fly off… It might have been a primer not compatible, humidity, not enough heat, I got no clue. I do know it was hell of a job cleaning the engin back to the metal to start over.


The last picture of previous post is the engine when I received it. This one below is after I primed the it.




Once the initial paint job was completed.




A few days after the engine was painted. The paint would flake off the block when using a air gun near it.




So I had to hand strip the whole thing…






Using different wire wheels and brushes I got the ruff part off the engine. A friend of mine who works in a body shop asked if he could try something, using paint thinner on a rag and rubbing it on what had to be removed. This made the job way easier and helped lots in getting the damn thing clean. Note to myself, always use gloves with thinner. I could not feel my finger tips for a full weekend after using it without gloves.

This time around I preheated the engine with torches and heating lamps prior to priming and painting. I also painted in sections. So at this point my head and block got final cleaning, lots of heat, 2 primer fumes and one medium wet coat, 10 mins between each coat, then I did the same with the color. It seemed to have stuck good this time, I guess baking it helped out, but I will see the result this Tuesday. I also did the coats on a few accessories and engine brakettes I had not done yet.







Tuesday I will proceed with covering the heads and block so I can do the same process, priming and painting the intake, timing cover and water pump. At this point I am hesitant in ordering new vavle cover and oil pan or simply cleaning these and paint the mate black too. I’ll choose this week I guess. Once all this is done, I will have the clear coats to put then reassemble all and drop the ready engin in the jeep! Finally …

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post #79 of 85 Old 03-01-2020, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
KristPJ
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
Turns out this time around, the paint did stick to the block. This good news I found on Tuesday made my week! I was a little thoughtless about this, I have to admit, I am a little tired cleaning and painting it over and over. I was serioully hoping for a positive result. In the end this is like the 4th time I give it a paint job, including on first rebuild.

I did the same process for the intake and timing cover. Once these were done I removed my oil pan and valve covers then gave them the same treatment.





I had a few small parts draging around, so I gave them a little paint job thinking it could be nice, I might get new ones, I’m not crazy about the result. The picture below is from yesterday, I gave my bell housing dust cover a fresh look. My distributor fell off the counter the day found my engine with flaking paint. The cap hit the ground and broke. That one was all red. The new one I got is blue, the cap cover had to be taken from the red cap, it was not included in the package. So I gave it a shot and preppared then painted them orange like the block. Tell me your opinion, I think it will look good, feel free to mention if you see it differently.




Once all dried, the following day, I reassembled my alternator, oil pump mounts and installed all of this on the blolck. The only place I had to do a touch is hidden behind where the alternator sits, on the engine. As you can see I still did the touch up befor proceeding. I assembled everything on it afterwards. I went across the door at the body shop (the side where I did my frame job), My friend rented the whole body side to two young guys starting their shop. I wanted clarifications about how to prepare the paint job for the clear coat. What I had done with the scot h bright was ok, so he offered to do the clear coat with a good clear left over he had. The difference between can paint a gun paint is just unreal! Thanks to The shop for the help! Since I had removed the pullies, steering and alertnator mounts for his clear coat, once dry I reassembled all and had everything ready to drop it on the frame the next day.





This brings me to today, first thing this morning, my plan is to take the tub, hard top and doors off. Giving me more space and acces to work. I took my trailer to the garage so I could place my tub in it while I finish installing the mechanics. I want to take advantage of having it off to finish all what is under the tub, on the frame. I swapped side for the time of the tub removal so it would be easier to get the trailer under it. At my surprise, having not taken any measurements on either the tub width and length or inside of the trailer... the boat sliders on the tub had 2 inches to wide. I had to set up the tub on jackstands inside the trailer. I will strap it down if it needs to move around.
With the tub off, I backed the rolling chassis on a lift. It was quicker to lift the frame at its max height using the hoist, I could measure the lenghts of the flexible brake lines and limiting I need to get custom made.







Once the engine was geared up with most of its accessories, a friend of mine and I droped it on the frame using an engine hoist. Once siting in place, I got: the bell housing dust covers, the flywheel, followed by the clutch kit and bell housing assemblé into place.



With everthing starting to take shape, looks good and clean, I though, although the transmission and transfercase being used wont be rebuild, I can not install dirty, unprepared parts on the build when everything else has been done.
These will at lease get a paint job to look good during the time I prepare my other transmission/t-case combo I plan on rebuilding. So using a engine shampoo, I cleaned them off and got them ready for a small paint job on Tuesday.

To finish the day, I started forming my return fuel line to match the 1st one so they can be attached side by side, straight and clean by the brake lines..




Tuesday should be an other good day, more will be posted this next week.

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post #80 of 85 Old 04-05-2020, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
KristPJ
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1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
March has been a crazy month around the world. I was out on a training in New York, got urged back home when everything got messy. Then I had to stay lockup up inside home for 14 days… amazing for little projects as you will see.

Lets keep going where I last stopped. With the tranny and t-case nice and clean, I ordered a little more paint and gave them both a good high temp primer/paint job to match the engine. The combo turned out very nice. My jeep is almost an attraction in the shop now. I also finished forming the fuel lines. The return is there for if ever someday I choose to go EFI…









I even placed the carburetor and air bowl for the heck of a picture.



This has been done at the end of Feb. early March. I then went on the exercise then all this happened… Now since the quarantaie is real and a big deal, everything being closed and peoplee told to stay home, I took some work with me so I could fill my loads of free time home and keep the progress going on my project.

For the first Quarantained week, I brought all my steering column components, carburetor and parking brake assembley parts home. I had cleaned and prpared all of the parts previously. To fill my time, all that had to be painted got a few coats of high temp paint then cook it at 300F in the oven for 2 hours. I think it looks decently good. I then started with rebuilding the steering column. Now if ever you rebuild a YJ steering or any old GM style column, if you have the key release lever on it, that little curved and dirty spring in the parts bag, that you probably neglected when dissassembling. Well don’t forget to put it in place, in your FIRST step. No need to explain what happens if you forget.



Since I am using the YJ tilt column, I had slight modifications to observe and do to my painless CJ wiring for everything to work properly.While I was rebuilding this, I also refurbished the old parking brake pedal assembly.









I went forward and got rebuild kits for the motorcraft 4350 and the Motorcraft by Holley 4180C Carburetors. This is the last carb I had running on the jeep. My original motorcraft 4350 found on old AMC Jeep V8’s was not running good, this is why I swapped it for the 4180C. Lucky for me, when I scavanged that old seized 360 a few years ago. It had a 4350 carb. With both I got to rebuild one. I am hesitant at the moment on what carburetor to run. 4180 is about 600cfm, the 4350 is around 550cfm. For my engine size, kit Installed in it and the utilisation it will be doing, the recommended cfm for my set up is 470. I looked into getting the holley truck avenger 90470 card, but after seeing the price, I will use the ones I have and keep my funds for the futur 401 build. I also got the spacer for square holley style carbs to ford spreadbore intakes to properly seat eaither carb on my factory intake.






Now, all I had left to do, was wait for a chance to go and work a little on my Jeep. Lucky for me, my friend had buiness to do at his shop. He let me in to work on my things, as I would be alone on the floor, so theorically still in « Ok « quarantaine.
I took advantage of that day to bring back my freshly done parts to my build. Since I did not want to start anything to big, not knowing when will be the next day I could go back, I went for easy things. I did modify a driving shaft making it shorter, for the rear. If I am to use it for more than moving around with these driveshafts, I will get them balanced prior to this. The weak point on my build is the transmission and t-case output I am not upgrading this set, keeping 1310 u-joints with the 2’’ rear drive shaft is some kind of protection… for the axle I will have a 1310/1350 mix u-joint. This will enable me to run a mix match driveshaft until I have the other kit ready.
I started cleaning the hardly ever used painless wiring harness and routing the engine bay section. I installed the carburetor and finished routing its pump to carb line. Spacing was very tight with the HEI GM big style distributor. I then sandblasted the YJ battery tray, and finished the repair on the lower firewall plate that hold the drive “tools”.















Now I did do more than is shown here, I will continue on an other post a little later.


Thanks for following

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post #81 of 85 Old 04-06-2020, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
KristPJ
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1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
For this second week stuck home, I ordered the front GM calipers for the 60. I was hoping to find an easy conversion to make them double piston, so they would be like on the rear. But yet I haven‘t found any, with out converting all or going smaller 3/4T discs.
I took home a few more parts home again. I am a little limited in things I can do, so things I can take home are limited. This time around, I took the front & rear calipers, I am giving these a high temp coat the same color as the orange on the engine. I only did the front ones, rear will be on week.



Like last week, my friend let me on the shop once this week, so I got to install a few parts and take back a few home. (I know, the pads are not on yet, they were not delivered at that time.)




My old Edelbrock air bowl. This one I was looking into changing it, but chose to give it a shot refurbishing it to the style I want. Not a big fan of too much chrome, I covered up the letters then used a 260grit sand paper, gave a good scratch for the paint to stick on the worn and picked chrome and sent it in the oven with a nice low gloss black coat.





My AMC jeep steering wheel center cap, this one, I have not done anything to it yet. I was thinking going at the mini car model shop and getting the proper colors used for plastic/metal models. I know my Jeep isn’t full AMC original anymore, but I tried to keep it AMC original to the most on some aspects… So this. Little detail is important to me.




The rear sections of wiring harness of both CJ & YJ, these are lots similar, the YJ has hardtop, rear wiper motor and washer, defrost and fuel pump in addition to the CJ lights and fuel sending unit. I am hesitante on swaping the connectors adding the few wires or adding a separate connector woth the added wires. Got a week to figure it out.



The Motorcraft 4350 carbs throttle body shafts are problematic from what I heard… mine, 4 out of 4 bolts broke off when removing the throttle plates on both shafts. Result, a home made modification drilling and tapping to swap for the slightly bigger 6-32 bolt/screws. So this week, using the better parts of both 4350s I will rebuild one.



I also build a nice mock up of the electric cooling system. I have rudimentary knowledge in the electronics world. Before cutting and screwing up my harness, while converting from mechanical to electrical fans, I chose to make all the possible tests and different ways to connect the setup on the mock up. This is a real headack figuring it out for me.The fan is a double fan, two speed from early 2000s providing from a Chrystler 300M or something alike. I want a BMW double tempature thermal switch to control both speeds automaticly. I also want a toggle switch in the dash with a warning light. Toggle would be Hi/Auto/Off. A HI speed override, Auto for normal functionning of low and hi with thermal sensors, and the Off the shut down the system. I also want the warming light to be On when the system is closed or at off, only when ignition is at On. The Low system has to be hot at all time to keep cooling when ignition is turned off. But indicator light off if ignition is off not to drain the battery.





The day I went to work on my Jeep, I took a little more info on my fan, I passed a few mote wires, connected the radiator hoses and analysed my intake manifold. Since I want that double fan two speed, controlled by 2 thermal switches I had to figure out where I could find space to install the switches. So I took in my scavangened 4bbl intake identical to the one I have. Looked at the cooling passaged and realised I will be missing spots for eveything. This is when I realized BMW had a single switch with double tempatures, this will become my option. Some work need to be done to be able to make it fit, tapping a cut down fitting…it should look like the picture below in the end.







So for this part what I need to figure out, I have 4 plugs giving access to cooling passages on the intake. 3 are 5/8” NPT (if I am not mistaking) and one is 3/8” NPT. What needs to be connected to the system are:
The Heater return hose, engine temp gauge mechanical sensor, cooling system switch(BMW one), vacuum switch. I though of adding a junction on one of the plugs or one of the Rad hose adaptors you can drill and tap.

More to follow sometimes this week as I progres from home.

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post #82 of 85 Old 04-25-2020, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
Electric cooling fan add on, rear axle brake line, engine wiring clutch link

During the past few weeks i’ve somehow managed to do lots. From home I looked up many electrical diagrams, wrote down what I wanted to do exactly for my electric fan add-on. Then tested different circuits on my home made electric board. It replicates my fan system.



Once I figured it out, I then ordered what was needed to build the harness. My fan is from late 90ies Chrysler 300M, double fan, two speeds. The relay system is did replicates the famous Volvo fan relay module many people seek for. I think my wiring to the fans is a little overkill, I might do it I er with smaller gauge. It would look cleaner and be plenty good for what it takes.

Next time I went working on my jeep I brought the few parts I had prepared home. I installed the fresly painted rear callipers and support. Then I got the BMW auxiliary fan switch on my cooling passage in front of the intake. I also tested my cooling temperature sensor, I got readings so I put it back in place. Both engine V belts are on but as you will see, I need to align y pulleys.




I finished installing the steering wheel once I found the puller.



I done over some work on my rear axle brake line, I did not like how the junction union for the lines was on the axle tube, so I extended the driver side line to centre it on to of the axle housing. This way my rear brake hose wont need to be as long.




Going back up front of the CJ, I hooked up my clutch linkage. I did mess around a little with the different parts. The kit I got is from Quadratec, I can’t remember the brand name. It is designed for CJ’s with 1” to 3”body lift. I did not need the rod extension for 2” to 3” lifts, using it with parts of the clutch adjusting link, I build a new adjuster that now has a small hemi. I don’t think this is normal, but the bellcrank is slightly angled to the rear. I had the feeling it had to be parallel to the firewall. I had to lower the body mounting point by 1 ½ ‘’ . To do this, I used an angle bar then welded it on so it would look like stock. It is at this point I realized the brake/clutch pedal assembly was not the right one, I still had the YJ set. Both can work, but the CJ brake pedal has a stud, the YJ a hole, the clutch has the same issue but inverted, hole/stud. I found it more simple to juste rebuild the CJ set and get it back in there.
During this process I found out I need to relocate, once again the metering valve.






The freshly painted pedal assembly installed, I am still missing the clutch pedal bearing/bushings. Once they are in I will complet the hook up.




I did most of the connector swaps on the electrical system. I am keeping some parts of the YJ for my dash build. I want to fully customize my dash and center console. For this I kept the lights, flashers, wiper system and the heather box and control from the YJ. I still didn’t figure out how to pass from the 1 CJ light switch to a 2 YJ light and panel dimmer switch. Ill do this some times soon.




The main difference with the CJ heather control and the YJ, I similar the the lights. 1 switch vs 2. The CJ has ON/Off low/med/hi all on the same control. The Yj as seen below, has the power going to the On/Off switch (2 white wires) and the the On/Off controls the power sent to the speed control.




With most of my parts on hand for my cooling system, I build the wiring harness from scratch, I think I overkilled with the wire Gauge. I might do it over in a little smaller Gauge. Anyways, for mow all os done, soldered every connector and used shrink tube to isolate and make it look good. The battery is On, the engine all wired up, I only need my electric oil Gauge and electric Water Temp and I can say all will be ready to run. I am not doing the final cuts in wire lengths on the engine side. I will do this once I have front fenders and once I receive my relay box for the engine bay. We can say it is all installed for testing mode.

I do not know what went through my head, but when I did the fan hook up, when came time to hook the relay feed from the dash, I thought it would be smart to splice it to give power to low, hi relays and the low fan power… so a 18 Ga wire would feed the low speed power to a 10 Ga wire.



I did correct this issue the following day with proper size wire and power from the battery to feed power to relays going to the fan. The relay feed from the dash feeds the Hi 5pin relay.




While doing this, I did my 3ground wires. One will be to change, I had no more black wire so I used a short red wire to ground the block. I set it up in a daisy chain style having the 3 of them linked together, battery to body, body to frame, frame to engine mount.



Tachometer, mechanical oil pressure and volt meter are set on the jeep, I might cancel the heater hose to place a temp sensor for the start up. If not, the electric gauge is in the mail on its way here.





I will stop this post for now, I have done more, but will post later, I am building the exhaust at the moment so I can soon fire that engine up. I’ll post a youtube video link if I figure out how that works.

Electric cooling fan add on, rear axle brake line, engine wiring clutch link

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post #83 of 85 Old 05-03-2020, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
With the engine startup in mind for a main plan, all the little jobs I do these days are focused toward this step.Without building the full exhaust line, I tetrised 2 ½” pipes down from the exhaust manifolds to the sides of the transfer case. Using two “J” pipes to route the line cutting and welding elbows going around the upper link of the 3 link, clutch linkage, metering valve, the front drive shaft and various lines…






My next stop was preparing the steering box and link it to the pump. I still had my high pressure hose from before the tear down, I had changed it shortly before, lucky for me it had not dried up. The original steering box on my CJ worked, however it needs a rebuild, I suspect some beads are missing and were improperly placed not being alternating dark/light balls. I had a spare one from either the YJ I had bought or one from. Wagoneer at a local pick&pu, it wasn’t leaking and looked good. I took it home and gave it a few primer and black ceramic high temp coats before cooking it 2hours. I then came to install it on the jeep but saw my hose would not pass between the front crossmember and steering box. The mounting bracket I got is from M.O.R.E, it pushes the steering box forward a little. I had to trim the cross member, sadly on the already painted frame. I added a ½ circle to the cut to make it look clean and hopefully strengthen the cut area.





Ok these are not my nicest welds, but will do, lucky the are hidden under where not many people will look.




Now you know how sometime all is done you think it is all ok, and they time comes to mount all in place and you realize the part is not 100% identical…
It isn’t anything major, but the splined shaft for the steering column has a smaller diameter. I will need to find a different mounting joint style or change the lower steering column. Ill figure out this week.

I did not get my pitman arm build yet, so using the model I made for lengths and angles, I took a regular model made it red hot and with a pipe wrench bent it to a somewhat close to identical to my needs. I sometimes understand quickly but need long explanations.double check, always double and triple check. Checking a few things around before proceeding, I gave a 180 turn to the pitman, and bend w on the wrong side… made angles wrong for drag link and trac bar alignment. Analyzing the problem, I figured if I gave it more bend I would get close to what I need but attached from the top of the joint instead of under.




My water pump pulley was not aligned the alternator, steering pump and crank pulleys ones. It had to come outwards about the thickness of one strap. Using an old water pump pulley, I cut out the center, weld it to a thick ¼” thick washer, drilled the mounting holes and shimmed the rear of my pulley. It made it damn close to perfect to my eye



Now that the exhaust was part done, the fan hooked up, engine wiring was done and straps aligned and the carburetor set with basic idle settings. All I was missing were my electric temperature and oil pressure gauges and gas... The gauges are ordered and on their way… but I got tired waiting, so I hooked my mechanical oil pressure gauge, I plugged the heather output at the pump and screwed my mechanical water temp sensor in. I got superior gas, put 20$ in the tank, filled the carb fuel bowls for the pre-start setup. Got the Allen key for tuning the carb, timing light, doubled check all the fluids, wires, connections, bolts who need to be tight and not and asked my buddy to come over and help me out for the initial start up.




Now was the time to ignite this fresh rebuild and pimped up 360… I looked down the carb, pulled the throttle cable 3 times to squirt some gas down the intake. Hooked the timing light and got the starter going cranking up the engine… a few turns happened then a nice back fire, and this is about all what happened for this day. Something wasn’t ok. I rechecked my gas, my fire order and rotor. I am not sure what happened, I might have set the distributor 180 degrees off, or inverted the gas lines at the pump, I checked both and they both seemed wrong. I inverted and again nothing, not even back fires. So I stopped it there for to review my notes and rethink if I did something wrong. Meanwhile to get a progress feeling, I installed the front and rear lights. I will be building it as complete as I can before working on the body, I want all the mods to be done before so i can paint and finalize the rest in the same time, like I did with the frame




Following day I went, took the gas lines at the pump off, made sure they were properly placed and connected, made sure the pump worked properly, took the distributor and spark wires off, made sure the cylinder 1 was top dead center on the compression cycle. Using my friends thumb to feel the pressure as I was hand turning the crank pulley with a long ratchet. Refilled the carb fuel bowls, added a few sips through the Venturi for initial firing up. This time around It roared, it took a few shots to get the gas up the line, and adjusted at the right timing with out stalls. But it now starts and sound s loud. I will try to post a youtube video or upload one here if I can of the start up. I had my old phone recording from over the engine… just got to time laps, crop and choose what to keep in video.

More to come on this one.

***here is the start up video link***



Now that it starts, next step is to move it around on its power. Using my old drive shafts, I got new tubing and made test drive shafts to move around the parking and see if all works as it should, once my T-Case will be build ip I will upgrade and get the drive shafts professionally build and balanced. For now these will do as there wont be any road driving… yet.



So the rear one went on with out issues, I do need to find straps for the dana 60 yoke. When I tried to place the front one, I realized my exhaust pipe was in the way. The flange I added, the ear holding the spring and bolt was hitting on the shaft.i had to cut it off at the weld and rotate the flange 90 degrees to clear it. Now before cycle tests, all is being cleared without binding or touching anything, it is very tight In space but appears to work .




If you look back at the exhaust pictures, the one we see the two short flexible tubes, you can see how the flange was and could interfere with the drive shaft space.

This complete about where I am at for the moment. Progress is flying these days and I struggle to keep up posting all I do daily. If you like what you see and read, have a look shortly, it should be moving on its own very soon.

A custom flat t-case skid plate, custom shortened rear axle shafts and finalizing the wiring job will be done. I will also soon start to template a custom dash / console panel and front flat fenders

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-cj7-pj-edition-complete-rebuild-1628105
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post #84 of 85 Old 04-18-2021, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
KristPJ
Registered User
1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
Hell it has been a crazy past year. It started with a home invasion, followed by the never ending confinement then moved to a new city where i do not have the same comfort and installation to work on my Jeep. However, now I Have my Jeep with me home in my small garage that serves as mini workshop, storage for the Jeep and shares space for a mini gym.
Let me tell you it does feel a little tight in there. It will slow me down on the build progress. I can still manage to do some work, but nothing requiring major work like welding, grinding and body prepping... So for the few years i Have to do here, I will be building the inside, the custom dash and finalizing the under hood electronics and fuel system.

Here is a little sneak peak at when I moved it to its new home
Beninct likes this.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-cj7-pj-edition-complete-rebuild-1628105
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post #85 of 85 Old 04-26-2021, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
KristPJ
Registered User
1976 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: quebec
Posts: 196
Okay, So here we go... It has been a Long time since I last posted my updates. I have done some things on the CJ, but never as much as I would want. Lets get back to where I left.



Since my engine now starts, although it still needs some tuning, I had to get moving on the rear axle shaft. Not to spend to much on them since I did not upgrade to lockers yet, I chose to take my original shafts, get the caps machined so I could slide the shafts on them at the length I need. It is far from the best idea, however, it works to get my jeep moving around before moving. I took my hi steer arm at the same time to get it drilled for the drag link mounting point.







My links did turn out pretty well, considering my pitman arm is custom bent until I get one made double sheer. My track bar and drag link are supposed to be of the same length and parallel. With how it is set up now, there is no binding. The only issue I see. Is when turning full steer. The tires rub on the front suspension links. I still have to add the knuckle stoppers, this might correct the problem.







Because of the Covid, the province went in lock down. I had to improvise on things I could do from home … previously I mentioned not being sur if I would take the YJ or CJ rear wiring harness. Well I ended up building a hybride between the CJ rear harness and a TJ rear harness.







How did this happen. Well, I want to keep the CJ lights and wire color codes. It makes it more simple, when staying factory for working on the harness. The TJ section is because I had to redo the wiring in the YJ hard top I have. I also want the TJ style sound bar on my roll bar. Using a harness that goes in a jeep and has all prewired makes things easy. I even had the front section going to the windshield wiper fluid reservoir.









While doing this, I came up with the idea of using a connector junction box. This will allow me to have a clean wiring harness with all the upgrades passing through the same connector box.









On some more free time home, I went on and drew a custom dashboard. I made it out of cardboard at first. It's just like a CJ factory dash panel, but has a center console with to come a touch of modernity... I also went on modifying the factory CJ dash pad. I kept the YJ windshield since the defrost and the wipers are better. To allow this, I had to trim the dash pad to greet the YJ defrost duck that runs to the windshield. Now this is only a model, I think I will need to build my own pad if I want it to look clean once finished.







The Final dash should look like this.


https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/project-cj7-pj-edition-complete-rebuild-1628105
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